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@@Cdg8484 Many, and I mean many, of my guns I have designed and machined all the components, and assembled. Every gun in that video I designed and machined. Air rifles .30 caliber, .22 caliber, .357 caliber, etc., and a real 9mm firearm. Those are the only examples that exist. Your blaster is neat, but has no practical purpose or applications. Unless you are faced with a swarm of bees, or want to blast cobwebs.

@@willacewallace5905 who said anything about applications but you?? I just make them cause I can!! The difference is . You can't make anything that isn't already created.. just copy.. unfortunately for you that skill is not unique.. millions of men on RUclips make guns... How many are doing what I do ? If it can go 50 feet and leaves sand and rocks red in a flash it's not a flamethrower.. cold part is with your machine we could have changed the game but u want to be secretly nasty.. millions of views over here.. I could make millions but it's never been about money.. these are extremely powerful and dangerous.!! I think you can understand tho. Ur older and stuck in ur ways.. 20 years ago could u imagine a supercomputer for the Large hadron or the d-wave quantum computer.. but here they are today.. so it never matters what anyone thinks is possible. It's always been about figuring out the impossible.. 😎😎😎

@@CJMann-zg6fu 💯💯💯💯😎

This really isn't a valve that can be made without a lathe. It's pretty straightforward in design. The most crucial element to this design is ensuring that everything is concentric. That way the centering of the valve stem aligns perfectly with the central chamber tube.

@@tmc4825 💯💯💯.. that's the point of my reels.. to wake the game up .. find the real builders and thinkers and take the next steps needed to create what people only think is sci-fi.. build a great machine and watch it do it's thing.. show The world what's really possible 🤓🤓🤓😎

Fixed.

Thank you. All lathe work. Had just gotten a new, bigger lathe. Went to work with the project that was planned. I just posted a video of the finished gun for you. With that, a 30 caliber air rifle that was built since then, too.

@@willacewallace5905 very cool. Ill check it out! I too am a machinist. I love tinkering and modifying things. Currently im modding an Umarex G2 in .22 for use with slugs. Its basically not the same gun as it once was. Lol

Claro!

@@19771JAWS Hey, Jeff. That alternate board works, but does get pretty warm under heavy extended loads. Since then, I have purchased and installed a KB electronics board/box combo. Couldn't be happier. No heat and very heavy duty. Though, did cost 200 bucks. Here is the link what and where I bought it: KB Electronics KBMD-240D (9370D) Multi-Drive Variable Speed DC Motor Control, NEMA-1 a.co/d/0xPyIE6 A little steep, perhaps. You may be able to get it on payments, too.

Well, I had the same problem just recently with my Grizzly G0759 mill. Literally! So, looking at the schematic, the guard switch simply completes the circuit. I removed the switch and simply connected the two wires together keeping the circuit open. Worked.

You beat me to it lol 😂

Hahahaha! Not really. I posted the comment of flame, them shared on Reddit to the 'antiwranglestar' group. THEY think it is legit ad post all his musings there. I know for a fact he was trolling. However, some not so much. In fact, one commenter went in a rant with me about how non-ionizing RF DOES cause cancer or health concerns. I simply had to walk away. Non-ionizing radiation does not have the ability to strip atoms etc. Simply not possible. They posted a study where exposure to 33.4 shows health's effects.... No, there is no evidence to include cancer causing concerns, rather heat generation, yes. Anyway, I am an engineer , but LEO by profession. Never lost touch or became unread on engineering principles.

It can break 16ft/lbs wth 14.9 grain pellets @ 707fps. Some valve and poppet pin redesign alone provided gains. Nothing else changed in design. Still have the gun today and finished. Wonderful shooter and deadly accurate.

Copy.

Sure. Go to my channel, under my name is an email address. Hope you're going to tell me that you have the data sheet on the motor controller!

??

There is only one PCP rifle I have built. It uses an HPA bottle. Don't think I've ever discussed that particular air gun before. I have a .22 caliber SSP (single stroke pneumatic) target gun that has some videos up when it was being built. Though, I haven't actually made/posted a video of the finished gun. Since I'm suddenly getting subscribers, maybe it's time for me to share builds? I was using the RUclips video platform only to share links on forums, not so much to gain a RUclips following. I'm not much into making videos, as I feel those that do have already covered pretty much anything I have done so far with far better video production quality.

@@willacewallace5905 I've seen all the videos you've uploaded

@@vijaykorvekar1009 Do you think I should have more detailed videos of the guns I've built? I make real firearms, too. I've removed the videos due to RUclips anti-gun stance. I have many more than what I've made videos on.

@@willacewallace5905 real airgun,no I meant the guns those that look like real but are air gun

@@willacewallace5905 hey man ruclips.net/video/hVYnb4fDzU4/видео.html look at this bulpup air gun ,it's a good project

Yes, sir. Reverse spool sort of affair. The spool in this loads upon a pin (sear pin) that is pulled away via trigger, thus releasing the spool from it's seat when under pressure. Think of Sharp guns, vintage Crosman 760, 1400, etc.

@@willacewallace5905 i actually owned sharp multipump air rifle..not the nicest trigger but it sure fun to shoot

@@jollyrancher400 The issue with Sharp, is that they use a siding plate that the pin loads against and must pass through. This means there is constant load through the trigger pull. Makes for a terribly heavy trigger. On my design, the sear pin seats in a groove on the blow-open spool. The trigger pulls it down out of the way. Trigger pull is fully adjustable down to 1.3 pounds. A sneeze will set it off. I have it set right about 3 pounds.

Thanks for the kind words! When building this, all the inspiration came from the concept of the Webley Paradigm. When it was announced that the Paradigm was not going to be produced for sale/distribution. So, decided to build my own SSP airgun with similar qualities. Still have it today and have shot thousands of rounds through it without issue. Lovely shooting gun and deadly accurate. I know it's a bit biased, but it is the best shooting airgun I've ever shot.

You could always get a straw barrel from a Daisy 880 and fit it to the abutment. Willing to bet accuracy would improve. Like I've proposed, if that is something you'd like to do, I can machine them up to work for you. I wouldn't charge you to do it. I do have sections of .177 barrel from Crosman that I may play with for experiment. Also, had this insane idea of making a biggie size Daisy-type of BB gun that shoots .25" ball bearings. The plan is to make a shot tube for it, use 1-1/8" bore tube with a 3" piston travel. It'd probably shoot 325fps or so, but that's a heavy "BB" that will smack the daylights outta stuff.

@@willacewallace5905 Rifled barrels. I see some on Amazon, 880 and crosman models. About $10. Can I assume they re as long or longer than the RRider shot tube -11”. I’ll order one if u want to mess with it. I have an abutment available. You spoke of ball bearings, I bought a couple hundred 4.5mm bearings. I wanted to have a “perfectly” round and diametrically? Correct projectile to test the accuracy and not have to rely on Daisy bbs quality. Roundness is excellent, they’re slightly under 4.5mm. Run about 0.1768”. But I definitely reduce the “flyers” and tightens groups. At $ .010 each, I collect them carefully for reuse. Is this message “public”, like to communicate private--for mailing addresses etc.

@@daisymae6561 Tap the little 'W' icon by name to find an email address for me. From there, feel free to shoot me a message. The 880 straw barrel specs at 18.1" length. Plenty of barrel to toy with. Honestly, I'd try the whole length at first, then cut down to fit need. Reason being, after calculating chamber volume, the stock guns efficiency would maximize with close to 14" length.

Are we still in “business”? Your address didn’t appear. And I’ve been busy, but I’ve ordered the 880 barrel. So let me know where to send--probably be a week or so. Thx.

I believe it. If there is any protrusion of the threaded end threading past the thickness of the abutment, that spring hits hard enough to send it through stripping things. Almost too hard. Factory design needs reinforced pretty much. Those electro welds are much either. The heavy spring is really for guns than use a step barrel design where the abutment relies on being held by reduce tube diameter.

I've actually toyed with the Magnus effect/Bernoulli's theorem application in BB guns with great success. On the first example, simply cut a slot on a shot tube at the end of travel where the plunger tube stops on compression. Then, placed a cut o'ring in the slot. Made a tapered sleeve and placed it over the o'ring/barrel. To increase hop up, simply side the sleeve over the o'ring so the taper compresses more material into the slot. Worked very well. It was a test for proof of concept application. Though, needed refining for repeatable, reliable results. On the fixed barrel Daisy guns, such as the Buck, and one has machine tools, that would be an easy task. Simply get a section of quality, tighter bore airgun barrel and machine it to fit the abutment unit. Then, you could even have a little extra length hang out the front. Crosman sells barrels for 20-30 dollars (Model 760).

Thanks for the prompt response. It’s really good to hear from someone with similar thoughts. My experience with airsoft and hop up amazed me. Couldn’t believe a plastic “bb” could be made to fly that accurately and that far-out of a smooth bore. So how to do it using a RRider/buck ? One thing I noticed about the hop units, the bb is right up against the “nub” when the air/gas hits it. I would think that’s an advantage. Of course with the Daisy shot tube assembly that’s not possible. Not sure with the nub a couple inches down the tube, you get the same effect? I went down the same road, using a rat tail file I cut a 1/4” groove across the tube just in front of the extended air tube. Using a piece of silicone o-ring material I held it in place with heat shrink tube and used a zip tie to apply pressure. Not knowing how much of the oring material to extend into the tube. A Daisy brand bb mics about 0.172” average and best I can measure the tube is about 0.1785”. So I “eyeballed” it at about 0.020” extending. I got mixed results, accuracy wasn’t as good but bb seemed to fly flatter. Before I got much testing done --I stuck a bb, driving the shot tube out of the abutment. Had to hammer bb out of tube, decided I had a deformed bb. First time I’ve had that happen--since 1955:). These were Wmart “silver” daisy bbs. Anyway, I stuck a new shot tube assembly in the rifle until I decide the next move. I’m thinking of buying a Daisy 901 pumpup with the rifled barrel. To see how it performs, there’s a good selection of various sized bbs available now. Wondered how the dia affects accuracy in a rifled barrel ? “Marksmen” brand bbs mic around 0.176”. Like to try them in rifled gun. They improved the accuracy in two RRiders I have. Shooting off bags at 33ft scoped they’ll do 1” where Daisy’s are closer to 2”. Again, thanks for sharing. Any other thoughts.

@@daisymae6561 You're most welcome. As far as the "nub", that was placed right after the air tube/ram distance accounting for BB tolerance. I question whether or not the BB is is dislodged from the retainer from air alone, since at tubes tend to display impact trauma on the face from countless round cycles. So, the starting point I supposed was after the air tube distance. I would imagine a conically shaped cone to work a little better than guestimating with zip tie pressure, as the cone shape, though shallow in pitch, would present a linear, progressive adjustment. If you wanted to send me an abutment and a barrel of your choice, I'd gladly machine it up for you at no cost. It would get you going in the right direction. Then, you could cut the muzzle down to experiment. My calculations say that 13.5 inch barrel would show great results alone using factory powerplant.

@@willacewallace5905 As to the Colbalt spring/abutment rupture”, it was in a modern (Asian) 1938B-step shroud gun. Speaking of what causes bbs movement from battery, in these newer guns I believe the air takes bb from the magnet before the air tube makes contact. I see no indication of contact on the used ones. The original removable tubes used a spring wire to place and retain the bb, perhaps tight enough to allow air to strike the bb ? Perhaps painting the tube with some Dykem ink would shed some light. Interested in where on the shot tube did you place the notch for the oring? Got a pic ? Inches from the abutment? I’m out out spare shot tube assemblies, plan to place order for those and other parts soon.

@@daisymae6561 Hey, there. Sure thing. For the shot tube with the fill hole on top of the barrel in line with front sight design... Removed the assembled piston unit, abutment seal and shot tube. Sandwiched them together to simulate a state of rest, as if in the gun. Measured with a mic to see where the end of the air tube resides in the barrel, then accounting for the thickness of a BB (50%), that is where the o'ring was placed. However, placed the shot tube in the mill vise to center the barrel. From there, rotated the barrel so the BB retainer cap would too be centered. Moved the table on the mill to my mark on the barrel and used a very small bit to cut across the mark. Finishing was done with a mini round file. The reason for the above method, is that the BB bucking needs to be in line with the top of the barrel. If off to the side, the Magnus effect rotation will be off causing the BBs to lift in the direction of the axial backspin, i.e. projectile will quite literally shoot very heavily to one side.

Hey, there! I believe you're the guy selling on the Bay, right? Purchased springs and seals from you in the past and for this build. Thanks! I'm just a tinkerer/hobbyist engineer/hobby machinist of sorts with an interest in airguns and firearms and anything mechanical. This "series" is really to show a 'Daisy Supergrade' build. I'm not much for editing video or top-notch production, or showing folks mundane machining. Mainly just to show proofs in the pudding concepts. Thanks for watching.

8 Pounds 3 ounces with scope and bi-pod. Meant to be a bench target gun, not so much carried about.

Hey, thanks. All the knowledge used to make it has been compiled over the years from the Yellow, GTA, Crosman forum, and the years of studying airgun designs. Combined with the understanding of metallurgy and what not. Nothing new in the design or concept. Companies just don't want to make them perhaps due to the stroke effort? It is the most accurate airgun I've ever owned. Feels good to say I made it!

Philip Riggs I was talking about your SSP with a few guys(including Rsterne) about the higher powers SSPs. I’m no expert but they were saying SSPs are more accurate than PCPs! What would you say the cocking effort is in lbs?

@@michaelgarcia156 It is around 50lbs at the end of the stroke. Doesn't have to be, as a partial stroke can fire a pellet, too. Though, reduced stroke means lower power. The piston seal is designed in a way that allows it to shift in the gland groove on the open stroke allowing air to weep past (much like a PCP pump piston). So, anywhere from nearly closed point to full open range it can stroke air. The main reason for this piston design was out of fear of the proposed difficulty opening the lever with a large piston under vacuum after the shot. So, the tube does not have the conventional weep hole to allow air to flow in - air works it way in around the piston. I think SSP designs to be on par or near identical to PCP guns in their shooting form, other than having the heft and bulk of the lever and piston added. Definatley shoot in a far superior manner than spring guns. There are a few forum pioneers that really did a fine job in their SSP designs. Ron Burnette and Joe Horn made amazing examples, along with the legend John Bowkette who really paved the way. Me, I was bored and figured it could be done using a valve design that was bouncing around in my head.

Philip Riggs Interesting way the air enters around the piston seal. Thanks for the info on the previous builders, I will be researching them I would love to shoot one of these high power at a FT competition to show the viability of a high power SSP Time for me to start building lol

Leslie Proper Actually, the stroke is 6.75"; compressing 10 cubic inches of air, pi (r squared)(6.75). Remember, with levers that have a moving sled, only two points of the lever are constant. The lever points A,B,. However, the load pivot actually changes in relation to the two other points with angular deflection. So, as the peak of the load becomes more present and built, the lever movement in relation to the piston, the lever ratio is almost infinite. We can't use the fixed classification of a class 3 lever due to the sled principle, as all points aren't fixed throughout the cycle. There is the presented lever ratio using the tree points, but there is also the ratio in which the load travels. Back a couple of years ago I completed a graph for a few airgun forums showing how to truly calculate the ratio of levers like these. In the end, this lever came out to be right about 30:1, which is on par with the user load required at the lever end.

Thanks Philip, Yes I realize the pump lever force is non linear. So my question really is: your pressure chamber volume is only 0.005 cubic inches?

Leslie Proper you are confusing psi with Bar. A .005cu.in valve would be nearly 30kpsi! So, 10cu.in/.075cu.in valve volume = 133.3bar; 133.3bar(14.7atmosphere) = 1,960psi

Okay, thanks.

what is the correct way to calculate the pump ratio mechanism? is there a formula that I can use to do the calculations

Leslie Proper Thanks! Yes, Sir. The valve is actually very simple. Not much different than other blow open air rifle valves, e.g. Sharp Ace. A valve pin is held in place via the sear plunger. The trigger acts as a pawl, rotating downward when pulled. The downward motion pulls the sear plunger away from the valve pin causing the charged air to blow the pin out of its seat. This exposes the transfer port, thus propelling the pellet. The valve pin, trigger and sear pin are spring assisted so they return home once the air is discharged. I will/can post a video of the valve dissassembled in a few days giving better explanation if you like. What I personally like about the gun design is the piston oring setup. It slips to expose a weep hole, as the tube itself doesn't have one. This allows the shooter to adjust the amount of air used to charge the valve, thus power output.

Thanks for the quick reply. I may try this type of valve in a future air gun. I have been using JRA style valve core in my air guns with a drop hammer to open them. They are smaller .177.

airguns freedom700 SSP Hey, Joe. I've put a couple of tins of pellets through it. Can't help myself in shooting it - even if it is just the action in a rest. Test, test, test. I do envy your design. In fact, favor it over mine. There's a mechanical elegance to yours unseen in the industry. Mine is more a copy of a gun I can't justify spending the money on! Rather use those funds to increase shop gear and goodies, ergo make stuff. Been waiting for that Paradigm SSP airgun to launch... Looks like it will never happen, despite the rumor of a Chinese company taking it in. I do suspect that our valving and trigger designs share similarities. Just a hunch.

kevin peske The valve volume is adjustable. Set it up to where max stroke produces no more than 615fps. Though, the piston can draw air at any point for various power levels. Could have left the valve volume more reduced, but stroke 1/2 or 3/4 stroke to achieve the lower velocity.

kevin peske Stock video in the next few minutes!! Just for you!

lol, i'm here..

kevin peske, with high hopes - the next week or so! Stock is finished. Has a nice Jacobean stain finish. Several coats of hand rubbed spar over that. Do have to jewel one more part, the front barrel band and get a butt pad for it. Truly is my best built yet! Aside from the 9mm carbine currently in the works.

really looking forward to seeing it, 9mm carbine ? where's this one ?

kevin peske, haven't posted the 9mm. May decide to. It is blowback operated, closed bolt, striker fired system. Vertical mag feed. Coming along nicely. Just another tube gun, really.

sounds pretty intresting for sure, you gonna share and let us see it ?

kevin peske, That was the plan once finished. It is fully compliant under BATFE guidelines; 16" barrel, closed bolt, etc., etc.

kevin peske Yes sir! Have a thumbhole stock ready to go. Everything is finished. Parts have been blasted. Just waiting for the time to put the finish on.

hi phil, good to hear, hope to see your progress soon. really sweet rifle.

Freedom 700 SSP It weights right about 6.7 pounds.

There is some trimming here and there to be done, i.e. taper the end plug down and put a taper on other aluminum parts. Will lose a few ounces.

appynoon, correct. There is a return spring. When it returns home after firing, there is over travel on the pin. Stroking air moves the valve pin rearward a few millimeters to then allow for the sear pin to be pushed back in to the void via the return spring pushing up. Auto resetting with valve pin pusher assist. Also, the piston is designed where the oring slips 2mm exposing a weep hole on the piston face. This way a hole in the tube to draw air is not needed, and stroke can be varied.

isn't that interesting ... so that kind of sliding o-ring works in high pressure mode too? I always though that would affect performance but clearly not, because a significant proportion of the air charge fills the gap in front of the o-ring ... and then has to get from there to the transfer port double quick!

appynoon, sure does. 1.5-2mm is all that is needed. On the piston face is a small weep hole. The hole is such that half of its radius is cut into the gland. The oring is forced against the piston face when opening, exposing the void. This principled design is used in many high pressure applications, such as PCP hand pumps.

Freedom 700 SSP, Thank you, Sir. Piston seal and outter valve is 70 duro, inner rings are 90 duro. No issues after hundreds of rounds, thus far.

My gun kept blowing o-rings due to rapid decompression rupture. We found that Viton o-rings are holding up perfectly. Since mine was pushing or surpassing 3000 psi, I'm not surprised the 70 du rings were rupturing. I'm glad to hear your build is durable.

Freedom 700 SSP, Thanks Joe. Did some tweaking... interesting results. Happy camper so far! been a fun learning experience. Will say, companies CAN build us these powerful SSP guns. You, me, JB, others have done it. We've all been duped by this 'ain't possible' business.

perhaps it,s more of an, aint profitable, situation. PCP have a lot of other profit making equipment and accessories besides the gun itself. A self contained gun like ours, is just that,, self contained.