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Garage Buildz
Добавлен 16 окт 2016
Fixing N55/S55/N54 rod bearing failure, and variable-rate oil pump functioning. Part 4.
Fixing N55/S55/N54 rod bearing failure, and variable-rate oil pump functioning. Part 4.
Просмотров: 174
Видео
Fixing N55/S55/N54 rod bearing failure, and variable-rate oil pump functioning. Part 3.
Просмотров 58214 дней назад
The S55 oil pump has 18% higher flow rate than the N55 according to Section 7.1.3 of the BMW technical document "Technical training. Product information. S55 Engine".
Fixing N55/S55/N54 rod bearing failure, and variable-rate oil pump functioning. Part 2.
Просмотров 143Месяц назад
Fixing N55/S55/N54 rod bearing failure, and variable-rate oil pump functioning. Part 2.
Fixing N55/S55/N54 rod bearing failure, and variable-rate oil pump functioning. Part 1.
Просмотров 326Месяц назад
I have a degree in Aeronautical Engineering. I formally studied the fluid mechanics of oil-film bearing design .
Jeep Commander 2005-2010 front coil+shock replacement and clevis bracket bolt removal.
Просмотров 3,2 тыс.10 месяцев назад
Another way of removing the clevis bracket bolt is to weld a bolt onto the head end (head to head) and draw the clevis bracket bolt out with a tube, a washer, and a nut.
Jeep 2008 Commander 4.7l Driver's/Left-Side Exhaust Manifold Removal
Просмотров 241Год назад
This is an update about the Left-side aka Driver's-side exhaust manifold.
Fixed: BMW tail light does not work: BMW X5 E70
Просмотров 820Год назад
Covered: 1. Using the bimmergeeks ProTool app to reset the FootWell Module. 2. Diagnosing and fixing intermittent tail-lamp problems. 3. Update 12/30/2023: LED bulbs cause a dash error. The regular incandescent "168" bulbs fit in the socket, and work fine without an error - I have replaced both sides. The 168 are 5 Watts (compared to 18 Watts for the 921) therefore will produce less heat. Note ...
SATISFYING 5-minute double garage door opener install (SOMMER)
Просмотров 808Год назад
SATISFYING 5-minute double garage door opener install (SOMMER)
Jeep Commander 4.7l V8 2005-2010 OilPan Removal
Просмотров 4,5 тыс.Год назад
Removing the oil pan on the 4.7l V8 2005-2010 Jeep Commander, is notoriously difficult. Here I remove in order to fix an oil leak at the windage tray gasket.
Jeep 2008 Commander 4.7l Exhaust Manifold Removal/Resurface
Просмотров 2,2 тыс.Год назад
CNC skimming of exhaust manifold using shell mill / fly cutter. Tricky removal: no space on the side of the engine.
Selling 1993 Jeep Grand Cherokee, ZJ. See description for ebay auction
Просмотров 187Год назад
Ebay Auction: www.ebay.com/itm/145277473995
MrCool Mini-Split Compressor/Condenser replacement, P4 error code
Просмотров 2 тыс.2 года назад
see here for more details about how to vacuum the lines: ruclips.net/video/k9uohbYDuRs/видео.html
How to fit a Haas VF in a home garage
Просмотров 1,7 тыс.3 года назад
How to fit a Haas VF in a home garage
Removing dowel pin from engine block, Method 4 and 5
Просмотров 4934 года назад
Removing dowel pin from engine block, Method 4 and 5
Can you remove engine block dowel pins with the engine still in the vehicle?
Просмотров 4534 года назад
Can you remove engine block dowel pins with the engine still in the vehicle?
Dodge/Jeep V8 5.2L/5.9L Magnum best intake gasket hunt and install tips
Просмотров 4 тыс.4 года назад
Dodge/Jeep V8 5.2L/5.9L Magnum best intake gasket hunt and install tips
ZJ V8 valve cover crazyness and mad rant
Просмотров 1614 года назад
ZJ V8 valve cover crazyness and mad rant
All tips installing Dodge/Jeep Magnum cast exhaust manifolds/headers
Просмотров 1,1 тыс.4 года назад
All tips installing Dodge/Jeep Magnum cast exhaust manifolds/headers
smart curious fellow
I was told when welding a crank to keep it cool as possibly. Never tried but good video to learn from if I do.
Just a note - I could be wrong but I don't believe any N54's came with the oil pressure adjustment tech. I believe it started with the N55. Definitely interested to see if I can stuff a S55 oil pump in (or pump gears) in my N54 (cost effectively) before going to an accusump or dry sump for track use. Great set of videos though. Earned yourself a new subscriber!
Dunno. Some ebayers are selling N55-style pumps as "N54". Some not.
Great video! I thank the algorithm for this awesome find. On my b38 on cold startup oil pressure is at 8bar in 2 seconds, then it is regulated down to a normal idle pressure
Where did you find a shop that would do the splines?
@@ian_davidson Branik, Fort Wayne
".....18% higher flow...."
So u just have to lift the motor up to remove that bracket? I’m trying to tighten my torque converter bolts
What lubricant are you useing? I use kerosene. That is a nice looking Atlas lathe. Good Luck, Rick
@@richardross7219 just alcohol from walgreens
@@garagebuildz5216 I'll stick with kerosene since it lubricates and will prevent corrosion for a while. You did put together a nice video there. Good Luck, Rick
I just bought a K20z1 from the junkyard with hopes of taking the crank for my sleeved block. Noticed today that the balancer is broken and there could be a vent crank snout.
You can pretty much straighten any crank, with enough tools.
Excelente aporte
Thread: f30.bimmerpost.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1840066 I said "fuel rail"; I meant oil rail.
N55 has some oiling issues, just to name a few: - non-primary mains - weak block and girdle - varying oil flow - electonically the oil pressure is controlled based on the pressure after the oil cooler, while the mechanical back up is set up to work with the pressure of the mains, so once the leakage of the bearings become greater the pressure drops and the ECU has no way to see that, I believe it works with predefined leakage ratios, its worth mentioning that the temperature of the mains gallery is monitored and used to increase the oil pressure by some amount above 120 degrees, this high temperature target seems to be in for emissions/efficiency Few tweaks can be introduced here with potential to improve the reliability. 1. increasing of the bearing clearances and use of thicker oil 2. switching of the oil temperature and oil pressure sensor location, that way the ECU will monitor the bearing pressures directly 3. Lowering the coolant and oil temperatures 4. Adding additional external oil feed line from the filter to the bearings and smoothening the oil gallery corners, sharp edges are no good here due to the long path and the constantly varying flows 5. Strenghtening of the block girdle
My solution seems more direct.
Bro, always learn to lube your calipers before applying the pads. Any moving components should be lubed, especially the slots where the pads sit and most importantly the sliding pins which I saw you never even lubed plus a dabble of lubed on the tip of the pistons. It doesn't quite seem that you even know what you were doing. So why misinforming the viewers???
Share a link please to your video thanks
I'm having the exact same issue right now with that strut bolt it won't budge. But I'm trying not to cut it off yet. It's very frustrating
@@danruffing5057 I recommend an air-hammer. Check air-hammer reviews for a good one. Get a heavy piece of metal pressed up against the other side to give it something to hammer against.
@@danruffing5057 did you get it loose?
@garagebuildz5216 i used a grinder with a cut off wheel and put a new lower control arm on it with the new cv axle. the strut fork bolt and the control arm bolt both had to be cut they were never gonna come loose
@@danruffing5057 cool
@garagebuildz5216 it was a bitch to say the least.
Mag drill with anular cutter would drill that weld out in 5 mins Im a field tech at caterpillar i remove welds for a living your doing everything wrong
Hello ,i am doing my axle bearings and ran into your video and noticed you are correct the spacer that is sent with the locker is to small ,i am a machinist by trade can you tell me the dimentions i need to make the spacer please ,thank you i really would appreciate it!
@@markboza6215 Reports indicate it varies axle to axle. Another viewer measured with a wood-working Divider tool.
@@garagebuildz5216 oh ok well trhats not a bad idea,i was hearing a clunk when i went out of my driveway and noticed i could move my wheel up/down so i new it was my axle bearings so when i opened up the pumpkin i then noticed i had a detroit tru track locker and the pinion and gear look like its new,thank you for the reply !
Torch???
Look up American Iron Offroad, ball joint delete kit, you will never have to worry about that anymore. Ive been running them in my 392 Rubicon with 40" tires, 9" of lift for yrs and they are still going strong, and i raise hell in my jeep, good part is if you have to replace them they are rebuildable
Really nice job, I watched all the parts, no doubt that this a very strong dana 30 and will bring many yrs of solid use.
Brake caliper bolt size?
Hindsight is 20/20 but what if you just decompressed the spring and then sawzalled the strut/spring in half? Could you compress the replacement enough to fit it in and leave the cleavis in place?
No. Geometry. Too difficult to explain.
great video very informative,what size were the tire lug nut bolts...thanks
The torque specs for the upper control arms was 80 pounds/foot and not 60 mate.... Good luck!
Wrong. It is 70 for the ball joint. I started at 60 and increased it until the cotter pin lined up.
@@garagebuildz5216 Right you are! I was listening to what you were saying and not where you were pointing. Yes, the upper ball joint torque spec is 70 pounds/foot... Keep Up The Good Work... Happy Wrenching!
Those stupid ass rotor screws. Mine were all rusty like a mf. Fun fact: You don't actually need them, they're just there for factory mounting. I just drilled the heads off, left the screw bodies in and put the new rotors on. When you tighten the lug nuts, the rotor will be secure enough with just those.
yep that's what I do on my Mitsubishi Mirage
I need your help, I reflashed the FRM and still don't have left front or right rear, please advise
what does the ProTool app say?
Kudos to you for taking on this project and documenting it
Lots of elbow grease but worth it.
32:41 Good to know! Thx :-)
Thats a steel pan I was under my xk today making room for a motor mount swap tomorrow and was looking at the pan and its caked in mag chloride but still doesn't sound like steel either aluminum or a composite but didn't have a magnet to rule out steel but sure don't sound like it. Im just trying to decide where I'm going to put my jack to lift this SOB . While making the room unbolting the diff I found that both the fromt diff cover bushing and upper pinion bushing were crap already I just did thise 15k is ago and they are probably my thump they weren't as bad as the ones i took out but prett shatty for 15k . Luckily the motor mounts came with a front diff bushing and i have an upper left from last kit since passenger side was good and still is . Looking at a poly mount for the top mount after what i found today . I'm not sure the motor mounts are really needed just assumed they were the noise since they are 180k old and the other dang bushings are 15k ... great design 😅
Problem is you still have a d30 only good for a shopping cart build
How are you checking Alinement of the tubes?
Eaton Trutrac has loose splines. It allows for some misalignment. But if you want perfect alignment fabricate fork stands and rotate it 360 degrees with a dial indicator. Then use acetaline hot spots to shrink the metal as is done for drive-shaft true-ing.
I might have missed it But WHY?
What idiot decided putting screws on a rotor was a good idea?
Funny, I have my New Axle Housing Sitting on Kitchen Island right now.
Can you speak English so we understand you!
No jackoff stands?
Is there really a left and a right disk?
Can You give me Contact to You ? I heav some questions about Your project :)
I got a length of 5/16 - 18 threaded rod and cut a couple if 6in pieces and a couple 4 1/2in, heated some hear shrink around the middle of the threads and placed them in some of the intake mounting holes - now I can lower the intake down in a very controlled manner so that it lands exactly where it needs to be, start some of the bolts, and remove the guide studs
I hate to correct you but you should always put the caliper on first without the brake pads, the pads go on last, that is the correct way and you will find out how much easier it is, the lube goes where the pads float on or rides on the caliper
And to compress the piston back use the old pads backwards with the c clamp. Using a c clamp alone on the piston can damage it or cock eye it
Honestly you can 100% remove any rotor lock screw without that or any other tool, you just simply put back a lug nut nearest to the rotor screw and tighten down to release the pressure, tap with hammer and simply unscrew, we never use any tools at the Honda dealership, try it next time. If your the screw you are removing is between two lug nuts simply put both lug nut on and thighten, you get the idea. Peace
Having the same exact problem with the same model.
P4 error could also be electrical. Unplug and plug back in your 3 wire connection from the compressor to the control board might fix it. Should be a white "T" shaped plug on newer models. Can also check it for equal resistance on all terminals and it should have no continuity to ground.
You should use a piloted bearing driver to install full compliment roller bearing. Also full compliment roller bearing needs to be installed and driven from the flat p/n end, the radiused end goes to bottom of bore.
I'm getting a very high pressure -235-250 psi on the lines. Could that be causing a P4 error? My compressor kicks on for a second, shudders and turns off.
I have no idea. But I am guessing you didn't open your valves all the way; which is the most important step in the installation.
@@garagebuildz5216 both of the valves are opened to the max. I'm debating on using conventional copper lines and vac them to get rid of risk the coolant isn't flowing.
@@robertberin4872 If you are installing from scratch and following the instructions you should not get such an error. There is no such thing as a vac clearing a blocked line. I am not an HVAC expert. I dont even know what the pressure ought to be. P4 is a voltage issue. Check the voltage on your terminals and check if it matches spec, and check your terminals have good contact. Some people confuse 240V and 120V systems.
I didnt bother to correct some minor wording errors. You should get it unless you are really dumb.
Thank you for showing which side up on gasket.
With felpro gaskets, you can install them either way unless there is stamping on the gasket, like front or this side up etc
WHAT'S IS YOUR TORQUE ON THE RING GEAR TO CARRIER BOLTS?
I thought this too and your not wrong about the center line But go look at the rims on a 18 wheeler or Dually all have alot higher offset than those wheels nice job But seems like your putting alot of work to fix a theoretically possible problem 1 question How many rims and hubs have broke due to offset none I'm guessing
It has nothing to do with breaking anything.
But that offset is murder on tires considering that nearly the entire tire is being forced to scrub every time the vehicle isn't going straight... Not to mention its a dana 30... the inner c's cannot handle the added constant leverage of the tires mounted that far from the kingpin centerline.