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Sounds like something is holding up the wash motor. It sounds like it is getting power since you are hearing a buzzing sound. Trying tapping the motor. You can lay it on its back and press the start button. Make sure you can hear the buzz then tap it? It will start running if nothing is obstructing it

@@appliancerepairshorts Will give it a try. You think there will be an obstruction with a brand new Sump and pump assembly. By wash motor you mean the circulation pump right?

Send me a model number, what kind of dryer, Bosch? You might have a broken belt, belt switch, something caught inside. Yes definitely open it up and check. On the lubricant, no unfortunately you can’t do it. You can try cleaning the motor and see if it works. Lint can stop a centrifugal switch from making contact

Appreciate the feedback

My pleasure

Hi there- if you watched the video, I stated I initially wasn’t going to do this video since the customer had already taken it apart so this isn’t a full tutorial. I did show where the fan was located when it was being installed. Thanks for watching

In the past, I have successfully used hard start to start a compressor. Most often the compressor is getting old and requires a bit more effort to start. You can use a rubber mallet to tap it as well. If the compressor has frozen, not shorted , tapping it and a hard start might work. If it is shorted, unfortunately compressor replacement/new refrigerator

@ vapor rub lol 😂

Check your valve. Here is how to check it, select cold first press start and let it run for a minute then press pause. The water should stop. Not put it on hot and do the same. Then put it on warm and press pause. It should stop. If it didn’t, unplug the water while it is running. The water should stop. If the water did not stop in any of those, bad valve. The next thing is the pressure tube or pressure sensor. The pressure tube on the back might be off causing it to overflow

If you’re leaking, you probably have a bad seal and gear case. Is it loud during the spin, when it was spinning? If yes , you need a new machine or the above mentioned parts. If you are not loud during the spin, you might have a leak somewhere else and might need a shifter or a lip switch

I am so glad it worked. Let me know if you have any other questions.

I appreciate you! Glad it worked out great for you.

Check your connections, something is not secured. The thermal cut off might be bad or not connected properly

Yes it sounds like you have frozen brakes . If you have a video of how it is preforming

Almost impossible. I have one where I remove 90% of the coating. Stupid boards. I’m coming out with a video where I’ll put a fuse in line to protect the board. Explain what your washer is not doing. Meaning, you put it in wash and it just sits.

@appliancerepairshorts If it basically doesn't sense the clothes when starting, I should activate the shifter to spin the tub a little to sense how much clothes it has, but by not supplying power, the washer simply marks the cycle as finished after about 2 minutes of trying to spin. By testing I was able to prove that the card doesn't power the shifter but it does power the pump, which makes me think that the relay in charge of the 120v for the pump and the shifter is fine. I tried to remove the resin to see if a track opened, but removing the resin is impossible without damaging the card.

I explained that I trimmed a portion off. The shifter in the video was clearly bad. I can diagnose a washer based on the theory of operation. So are you asking how to test the shifter? Or how do you know if it is bad?

Yes if the compressor is bad, you pretty much need a new refrigerator. If you are not sure, you can replace the start relay and see if it works. What are you working on? As in what is your refrigerator doing?

Yes good point, I have ran into that before. Also the deli board board will cause the unit not to turn on- the compressor and lights

What are you talking about? What you are saying makes no sense whatsoever. I showed you should turn it off, but technically if you are quick you don’t have to. If you want to be technical, unplug the unit. You have no clue what you’re talking about saying the refrigerator is not worth repairing. I explained that she is on a fixed income, so you are saying that I should not fix it. Hot water is way more unnecessary, but it works. The steamer is ideal. You have to first know the value of the refrigerator, the time to get one, the downtime and the repair costs. That was an expensive unit. It’s been a few months and all is well.

It doesn’t matter, but I think it was smaller than the other one. It all goes the same place. Just make sure the angle is pointing towards the interior of the drum. Also I think the original had something different, so I had to. Come to think of it. Good catch.

I know I was thinking about that when I was doing the video. It makes no sense

Sounds like you have a bad tub hub. Can you move the inner basket independently of the outer tub? You might have bad suspension rods as well. If you can make a short video showing the issues including a model number

You might have a bad fan, bad damper , evaporator fan is backwards , the drain tube is clogged up or is missing. If you have a video you , you can upload it to RUclips and send me the link

⁠@@appliancerepairshorts I’m getting good airflow through the top vent in fridge, after unplugging that board overnight the freezer is now cooling to zero but fridge is still 40°. I was planning on replacing the fan/thermostat assembly thinking it might have a bad thermistor but just noticed this drawer panel has no lights working. Going to confirm it’s getting power and then order a replacement.

@ when you say top vent , are you referring to the vent on the top left in the front? If so, that is your ice maker fan. Your evaporator fan is in the bottom center and blows air vertically. So if you are not feeling air, push in the door switches and feel. It is pretty strong. You can also put it in service mode and select #3or 4 . I don’t remember, but start at 1 and wait a second to you can test everything. You can find your tech sheet on top of the hinge cap

I used 2x6 pt

😂 actually that’s an older video. I actually screwed up on that. I sent that clip 3:55 to the customer. I might actually delete the video. Thanks for letting me know

It depends, but I agree because it normally breaks. The sad part is, the washer isn’t expensive and now you’re another expense . This washer was for resale

The issue is people don’t empty their dishes, so crap builds up and slows down the motor. Then the motor gets stuck. Keep it clean and you won’t have a problem. It works 98% of the time. I have been doing this way before I started making videos. With older GE dishwashers, the motor would do that as well. Just a little turn and it is good.

Sorry, it goes on the same as the others

You might have a bad filter housing. Make you can do a temporary bypass to verify. Remove the water going into the filter in the back. Connect directly to the valve. I have a video I’ll try and find it

Fastest reply ever, put your washer on cold water only and see if it works. I think you have no cold water. Also try hot water cycle and see if it runs. Or you might have a bad shifter

@@appliancerepairshorts replaced the shifter and still stalls out at rinse

@@jakemiller8022 did you try what I suggested? The cold temperatures. Then try hot and see . If you have a bad cold, your washer will stop before rinse

@@appliancerepairshorts yes stalls out on both

@ send me a video of what it is doing. You said stall. Are you saying it stop washing? Or pause? Try putting it on drain and spin On a video ? Maybe a tub hub

I have a full video in Patreon explaining the complete heating system. That video is good enough for fixing your problem. I’m linking a set of wires from Whirlpool dryer element. You can use wire nuts or solder.

amzn.to/3YDH7q5

Not sure what you are trying to say here. I’m the tech here explaining what happened. The belt can break for many reasons, but not from a bad transmission. Belts break from bad or frozen pumps or something that causes the basket to be stuck. A bad transmission is the opposite and the washer will operate, but the agitator is not moving.

@ I had the same problem on my washing machine. The transmission was stuck, it didn't move and the belt broke, we changed the belt, the same thing happened again, we changed the transmission and everything was fine. and you are right about that

I’ll link the part also a video if you want to repair them

My pleasure

I’ll link it. Thanks

@@appliancerepairshorts thank you!

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That is strange, I’m thinking that someone probably confused that sound with a bearing. When the bearings go, the seal is first. The sound is a roaring sound. Almost like a freight train. To go in a year and last 11 years working, those bearings would be rusted and leaking water. The GE has a washer that can sound like a bearing is out. The repair is not too bad if you can get the wash plate off. I have a few videos on that

@@appliancerepairshorts Mine does make a Roaring noise, so does the persons GE I mentioned

Press and hold the button until it does.

Do you have this washer? Remove the two screws 5/16 or Phillips and push down to remove the front cover. The belt is located underneath the washer. You will see it. In the video it shows the belt location. One of my earliest videos. I have a stacked laundry center to repair soon. If anything I’ll do a short video on it for you

@ yes its that one . Thank you .. and the belt is shredded.. now I have to get a new one . I appreciate your response and video

Yeah good point. I’ll address that on another video. Thanks for pointing that out

Pretty strong, enough to engage the contacts in the relay

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Glad I could help! I recommend a good quality dishwasher cleaner. I’ll link it, if it is not in the description. If you are feeling generous, you treat me to a cup of coffee. No pressure at all.

Glad I I could help. Use a little treat lock. It keeps the screws secured. Also in a few years, you can adjust the firmness

You must have a wrong connection somewhere, you shouldn’t feel any DC voltage looking at it

Email me a video of what it is doing or text this number 407-900-6274

Yes 140%

Put your meter probes in the pump wires. Put it on drain and spin. The meter should show 115-120 volts a/c. That means you are getting proper voltage from the board and wiring. You need to replace the pump . If you are not getting any voltage, you should check all associated wires. If all is good, replace the board. Sometimes a pump can ohms out “okay “,but still doesn’t drain. Basically it is getting good voltage and the shaft is rotating, but the portion of the pump, the impeller is not moving.