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Hey, thanks!

Love this fun fact! Thank you for sharing.

Thanks so much 😊

Thank you for your kind comments. Papers can be very absorbent and are not ideal for oil. It’s always best to use substrate that’s prepared and such a way that it will not be “thirsty“, or drink your oil/color. I prefer preparing my canvas or boards with oil primer. Give that a try and best of luck.

Hi Lulu, Thanks so much. I have a chart that I made of my entire pallet. That includes all of the colors I use, which ones are transparent and opaque, it also includes swatches of how they act transparently and opaquely with and without liquin. I shared this with my in-house students and require them to make one of their own. Send me an email and I will forward you a copy of the one I have. All the best on your artistic journey, sincerely, Todd.

@@toddbonitafineart1584 thank you for you super prompt response! You are so awesome I will definitely appreciate that. May I send it through InstaG? I will really appreciate that. I googled it of course, and I got an idea but I’d love to make my own chart like that as well 🙏🏼

Thank you so much for your kind words, Harry. I sure appreciate that. I would love to meet you in person. Thank you also for your interest in my original artwork. If you like, shoot me an email at Tmbonita@gmail.com. And request to be on my email list where I announce the release of new paintings and new painting workshops. Thank you again, sincerely, Todd.

Thank you for taking the time to say that. You’re very kind. I’m glad you found something of value in them. Happy painting to you Allen.

Hi Jeff, Thank you for watching my videos and checking in with your comment. Yes! You are correct. I just started using one with my plein air paintings. It’s a very useful alternative. Happy painting to you. Todd.

@@toddbonitafineart1584 Painting this way reminds me a lot of how I have done charcoal tonal drawings on sepia colored paper. Using an eraser to pull out the lights and darken the darks with more charcoal. Cool method.

Thank you so much for your kind words.

Love this idea! Brilliant!!! Thank you

Good observation. Pro tip: Squeeze out your entire palette the same way for every painting, as apposed to just squeezing out the colors you think you need. It’s not uncommon, for example, for beginners to just squeeze out green for the tree, blue for the sky and water, red for that barn and maybe some white. It’s a better idea to squeeze out your entire complimentary palette. The sky, trees and barn, all likely have light and shadow, reflective light, atmospheric perspective and varied degrees of chromatic and neutral color. This requires a full complimentary palette to introduce the necessary variety of subtle colors that represent nature. Squeezing out your palate and putting the colors in the same spot every time, develops habit and muscle memory so you can focus on the task of painting. I use a version of the most popular palette historically, “ the split primary palette”. It includes a warm and cool version of each of the three primary’s, plus white. Essentially, two yellows, two reds and two blues. Although not necessary, I also include a few secondaries for comfort, those include, orange, purple, green, and usually a brown. Hope that helps. Happy painting

My bad, thank you for the feedback. I have since been corrected. I should have been more specific and referenced the Sindhi, who inhabit mostly the north west part of India (and New Dehli) read from right to left. Thanks for your comments.

Hi Jose, do you have about six hours or so of drying time before the paint begins to set and get tacky. This is the paintings way of telling you it’s time to quit for the day. You can work on any size painting with this. If you click this link it will take you to a page where I illustrate the entire process through photographs. The painting I’m working on in these photos is 48 x 60“. Good size. Best of luck.

www.toddbonita.com/how-i-make-a-picture.html

@@toddbonitafineart1584 Thanks a lot, thats very helpful

@@toddbonitafineart1584 And what surface is better so It takes longer to dry? Wood panel, canvas...

Lol! Excellent! I’m glad you found this one. Appreciate all your kind words. Happy painting to you my friend.

Hi Kelvin, Thanks so much for the kind words, I’m glad to hear you are finding something of value in these videos. I have another video called opaque color. You will find useful in answering your questions about mixing. Happy painting on your journey, my friend.

Hi Humza, thank you so much for your question! You are right on target with your thinking. The fat Over lean principle means that the word fat equals oil. So, in theory, you are absolutely correct, your initial layers should be leaner, having less oil than the subsequent layers. I think I go over this in the overall video series but I’ll repeat it here. In this particular case, he will note that all of my layers are incredibly thin. I point out on two occasions that the initial oil layer is, “whisper thin”…. Not only am I really careful to point this out and stress how little oil I am using, I then initiate a close-up where you can see my fingers rubbing the surface to expose the extremely thin residue on my fingertips. This initial oil layer serves three purposes. One, it seals the drawing. Two, it’s sets up a somewhat slippery surface for the subsequent layer of raw umber I will lay on next. three, and this point is very telling pertaining to your question, the subsequent layer of raw umber, it is important to note that raw umber is an earth color in dries quickly, having very little oil in it. To be clear, the third reason for laying down the whisper thin application of oil is to extend the drying time of the subsequent layer of raw umber. in other words, by laying down the oil first, I can get a few more hours of painting time before the Raw umber dries. You are also correct to point out that when I dark in the raw umber passages, I am indeed layering more Umber oil paint. Again, I would remind you that these layers are so incredibly thin, they wouldn’t crack in 500 years. You are very astute and well read with your understanding of the materials. hood for you. I will add that the you are also correct in theory regarding my using subsequent layers of liquin over the oil and your observation that this would be thin over thicker paint. The theory is correct, however, again, these initial layers are so thin they are barely Audible on any register that would calculate its potential jeopardy of cracking. Another important thing to understand is that the liquin layers Are resin. The chemistry of oil drying is such that it dries via an oxidation process. The longer oil is exposed to air, it expands and contracts slowly over time, drying. If you can imagine a layer of paint expanding and extracting, it makes sense that if you put a thin glaze over something that is moving like that, but overtime, it would make sense that it would crack. The saving grace here is the use of liquin. This is an alkyd resin that speeds up the oxidizing and this, negates Any concern for expanding and contracting layers that would lead to cracking. A shorter, simpler answer is that my initial layers using oil are so darn thin, Coupled with the subsequent use of liquin, Alkyd resin, that it really will not be a problem. It’s a great question and forgive me if I was not clear enough in the video. I hope this helps. You are wise to be sensitive of your painting layers. If you are using thicker, impasto paint, it would be wise to be even more so vigilant. Thanks so much for your question. Happy painting to you.

@@toddbonitafineart1584 thank u so much Todd my brother for taking the time to really give a clear answer...im new to oil painting and as u can imagine not having any formal education n relying on youtube videos for info i get pretty bamboozled with all the different techniques and little nuances u old masters have picked up and mastered over the yeas n years of working with the medium...tell me is it ok for me to use turpentine instead of liquin? im having a hard time finding it or any other mineral spirit here...thanks again for taking the time to educate a newbie whos lost in the sea of videos trying to learn;)