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SLA looks pretty good. Thanks for the comparison, that's very helpful.

Thank you, very helpful. Why don’t you put the large one in a tent, too?

The overwhelming reviews stating the fan dies prematurely (while still heating the element) has kept me from using this particular unit, unfortunately. It’s a tough product to find that’s reliable AND affordable.

Fucking inflation it’s $67 now haha

Fucking inflation it’s $67 now haha

Fucking inflation it’s $67 now haha

What kind of plastic bags are you using? HDPE?

I just came across your video. Very helpful information. I was curious as to what the make of the carbon filter is opposite the heater?

I wish i had taken a better look at the temperature graphs before buying all this stuff. The temperature swings are crazy, i tried to improve it by moving the sensor closer to the heater but the thermal lag on the sensor alone is excessive, its just not well suited to this application. Going to look for a different heater with actual air temperature control

How does it handle the temperature with the air being sucked out? Or are you using an ERV/HRV system?

is that the ikea filter box?

One thing I'm going to do is make a dolly for it so I can transport if needed. This is step 1. The unit weighs around 900 lb.

So where do I get plates I can customize?

I did something similar with an enclosed printer about a year ago, but I used a different PTC heater that was larger and had more watts. The enclosure is very leaky by design, but it planes out to around 62C or so. I like your setup there, but I think I would get rid of the carbon filter on the inside and put an additional heater in it's place. Might have to spec out some higher temp lube for the internal parts that move like leadscrews, but I think it should work ok in a Bambu Labs P1S. I made a printed mount for my temp controller so it sits on the side of the printer and I can more easily control the chamber temps with it. I just added a short extension cord to power it.

Nice

I think I saw somewhere that X1C forces chamber fan above 60C because otherwise motors and electronics might fail. Do you see it working (against your heater)? I found that covering top and sides of the printer with a towel helps a lot, the chamber temperature stays above 50C (if bed and nozzle are hot enough, I tested with ABS+, Nylon, and PC). Preheating is a bit of a wait - I set bed temp to 100C, aux fan to 50% and move bed next to the fan and wait. Your approach will probably save the wait.

Is resin printing worth the toxicity

New subscriber here. Thank you for this very thorough and educational video. I went to the link for the heater and under it where it says "items frequently purchased together" it had all three items listed as if Amazon already knew what I was after. Obviously, a lot of people have purchased those items after watching your video.

What brand did you use can you tag a link

I used the exact same PTC and control setup to heat my build volume of my Elegoo resin printer. Cool, well, I mean hot.

my friend teases me saying that waste management is my passion, not 3D modeling or printing

This is quality info that should be a requirement for anyone wanting to dive into resin printing. Thank you both so much for taking the time to put this together.

Also, "solvents" were cited several times, but never the word "detergent". Yet, it would also have been particularly interesting to know how recent resin detergents (which are part detergent with a "hydrophobic tail" but also solvents) work as an alternative to IPA (which is pure solvent) on the microphysics level, and whether they are indeed more effective at removing resin as claimed by the manufacturers. I'm not speaking of general kitchen detergents from the grocery store like Simple Green, but dedicated resin detergents. These detergents have the other advantage of being suitable for use in ultrasonic cleaners, which is not recommended at all with IPA due to its flammability. Ultrasonic cleaners are much more effective than vortex-based wash stations at removing sticky uncured resin from 3D printed parts, especially when they are hollowed. Incidentally, this would have introduced a subsidiary interesting question regarding Wilson's machine: Why is resin diluted in some of these resin detergents unable to cure when exposed to UV light, contrary to when it is diluted in IPA (according to some testers that would be the case for Sunlu Detergent or ResinAway) while others dedicated detergents would allow diluted resin to cure in the same situation (Elegoo Photopolymer Resin Detergent, Sailsea 3D Resin Cleaner, FormFutura EasyClean, apparently)? That's a particularly useful property when you're trying to slightly precipitate the resin by partially curing it so it can better get caught in the micrometer filters, and the discrepancy over the various cleaner alternative to IPA raises questions. Not only the Wilson machine eliminates the need to dispose IPA and buying it over and over again, since your keep the same in the circuit (just topping it from time to time to compensate for its evaporation) but when one switches from IPA to detergent, this recycling process also negates the higher price point of the latter with respect to the former! An even if in the end, after one year or more probably several years, you have to eventually dispose the recycled liquid (if it's indeed not 100% recycled in the process) and finally replace it entirely, the convenience and economy of scale achieved in the meantime have been unbeatable. At least, that's what is seems to me.

Nick Wilson's IPA filtration machine is not "crazy", it's pretty simple actually, and very clever. I don't get why you are laughing each time you're referring to the setup, calling it the "arc reactor" like if it was some insane sci-fi thing from a movie, what's more without even crediting the author, ever. Wow. Even Wilson never called it like that. The fact that the machine recycles soiled IPA (by precipitating liquid resin diluted in it into larger partially cured chunks, and passing it several times in a loop for about 20 minutes through micrometer filters that capture it) and that not only it works, but it continues to work perfectly after passing over 20 kg of resin over a year without the need to even change the filters yet, is all there is to know. The fact that in the end you only have to dispose two small solid-state filters after 12 or 18 months to the chemicals section of you local waste disposal center, instead of hundreds of liters of contaminated IPA (!) is the smoking gun of this device. For those who don't know, the cost of these filters is ridiculous. This should have been the starting point, which should then have been developed to explain what technically happens in the machine.

Explaining @21mins why you don't leave prints in IPA was a big ahhhhhh moment for me

I still find it horrifying that some people actually think it's okay to use cheap, countertop water distillers for IPA.

This was very interesting and informative. Thank you Phil and Andrew for breaking this down so well. Now, all we need is for someone to make a vacuum distiller in a hobbyist price-range. Whoever does that, will make a ton of money!

I came across this video because my K1 Max was having the same issue. I clean my rods regularly. After 4 kilos I started having the issue. I went as far as taking my gantry apart and cleaning the graphite tool carriage bearings. They are supposed to be dry run (no lube) and they were very gummy on the inside of the bearing. It would take an endless amount of juicing and running the carriage back and forth to get any discernable amount of clean to them. Thank you very much. It's not driving me nuts anymore and I can reset all the slicer offsets I changed to try to resolve the issue. I'm thankful I didn't change the printer rotational distances in the config file but I wasted almost a kilo trying to resolve the issue.

I was thinking about putting one of my old heat beds in the bottom, placing a aqara temp/humidity sensor on the inside was of the unit and turning the bed on and off with automation like most things in my house and using a smart outlet. According to the display mine holds about 46, but then again I will have to check that. FYI the temp sensor for the charmer is the same board as the standby button and emergency shut down button on top.

Did you assemble your machine or did you have the company assemble?

Fighting a warping issue while trying to finish an enclosure, found the warping occurs to the parts closest to the door.. I ordered two of those heaters, along with my RP2040-Tiny that controls a SSR while talking to the printers controller, Klippers Chamber Temperature becomes a controllable reality.

Are you guys working on the actual holographics to be able to put onto plates and also do you do these onto p1p pei plates the plate size is 10 inch by 10 inch I believe

I use the same PTC fan in my Resin printer - the fan craps out, elcheapo pancake motor - I'm on #3 in 6 months. Amazon supplier did warrant first one.

Hello it keeps turning off for me and can't keep the set temperature of 60 degrees, what could be the reason?

I didnt even think you could disassemble the hot end only, i've always just done what you just did.

Can’t wait for mine! The plates are awesome

I've seen someone use a water distiller. They're not cheap though. The cheapest temperature controlled ones I see on Amazon is about $80.

I did the same thing.

that's neat, but honestly I'm too scared of fire hazard to try to distil ethanol at home I know it's not making it brand new, but I do hope that my 3 wash system and sunlight baths/settling cycles are extending my solvents' lifespan, let me cope

I like the cleaning pads I'm going to buy some. Thanks

aluminum sulfate and decanting

What about using molecular sieves to filter the isopropanol or the monimers out of solution?

So distilling IPA has a place. And yes that is the best way to get your IPA pure. Most people don't need their IPA to be pure because most of the time the the IPA is still concentrated enough to do its job. if your wash bath is 3 liters and its 99% by volume. You can add almost 500ml before the concentration is below what would be recommended for cleaning Resin prints. Not taking into account you need to top off the IPA since some of it will stick to the print etc so you will top it off over time. If you wait for the excess resin to drip off and have 2 ml of resin sticking to the print. That means you can do 250 washes before that alcohol is no longer viable. if you do a clean dirty wash you can get even more washes. The IPA will become cloudy long before that because of pigments. So removing that pigment means you can do more washes without replacing the still viable alcohol. For most hobbyists, the alcohol is still over 90% IPA which is why this settling and sun stuff works. The needs of hobbyists vs business are different.

A lot of hazardous wastes are simply incinerated. IPA in particular breaks down to CO2 and water. The real hazard would be the resin itself, so you should probably let them know that it's contaminated with liquid UV resin in particular, although they might not know enough about it to have a specific procedure for it.

What is the cost break down between buying fresh/disposal price vs how many cycles to break even? Any service or expected hours of life on the distiller? Looks like a nice option.

I have tried the Sun curing method twice - both times when I have washed parts later they get covered in Gum. Does not work

Unless im missing something, this is just a distillation process? Just heat up the ip and it will evaporate , cool it down and you have your ipa again.

Very informative and enlightening video and just as it has been mentioned prior it would be interesting to see something like this for those that are just hobbyist. Thanks for sharing.

whats the recovery %? 90%+?

Thanks for this! It was very interesting to see the process that you use. I'm only just spinning up the printers again after a break of two years, but I have been very keen on this particular bit of kit. I think it's definitely going to be a worthwhile investment, once I get to the point where I can move to a larger premises!