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Bought a used 2013 s60 t5 with 170k miles, low bulb failure. Low bulb fuse was good. High beams worked fine. Low bulb harness was melted real bad on both sides. Hit the harness with sand paper, and the bulbs worked just fine for about 400 hours. Then the passenger side bulb "failed" again. Once again, hit the connector side with some sand paper and the light started working again. But the connector was melted and damaged more than before. Did some research and the connectors for the low beam lights have been replaced by a newer model design for my car specifically, so I'm gonna swap them out. But hitting the contacts with a piece of sand paper is a quick fix that almost always works

Emmett Manors

Why are you replacing it

I would had clean that ground wire !!

Me some pictures and what I should look for maybe a link for the parts im after spending that much money and time on this utv and I just happened to come across your video and mine is spitting and sputtering and if i don't keep reving it it will die and im after buying 4 carburetors for this new fuel pump filters new cdi and rectifier changed all the relays and stator bought that many different type tools i have that much money into this thing it makes me sick to my stomach especially if this is my problem all along i blew my other motor and went and bought a whole nother utv for the motor almost 4000 for the motor and i also ordered a motor off line for 1200 and I got scammed out of my money so when I say i have that much money and time into this machine im not kidding so i was wondering if you can give me a message and I will give you my contact information i just want to ask you a few things if you have the time thank you in advance

I tried to comment on your video about the yamaha rhino 660 i have a 2010 700 hisun utv that is doing that acted same thing that your yamaha rhino 660 was doing and I was wondering if the speed sensor fixed the problem and maybe you could pm me some pictures pictures

I see that you have a cherrypicker there. Did you try using it to get the radiator out and find it wouldn't lift enough? I dont have access to a tractor or forklift, and Im trying to determine the best way to lift the radiator out. I've seen videos of people using cherrypickers with freightliners, but I dont know if it will clear on a Volvo / Mack.

What did you find out the problem was. I have the same exact thing with my newly bought 2011 Commander 1000 X. THANK YOU!!!

Have you moved on from driving Sir? OTR? & doing local runs now or did you change course of careers? That’s awesome if you did? Trucking sucks now & it’s just getting worse. I’ve stopped too otr, and only doing part time driving. Best of luck too you & God bless you.

😂 too much of nothing) 2min enought to explain the main directions for 3 plastic covers)

I have an 18' HD10 Max. Was having same slow start issue after it was warmed up. Sometimes to the point I would have to wait a bit for it to cool down some. I used this video as a guide to get the starter out. The bolt can be accessed without removing anything. I used my 1/4" drive ratchet with a 6" and 4" extension, stacked. Just go up under the cover in line with the bolt and feel around with the end of the socket/extension. You will find it. Took my dremel to the tab on the front of the transmission. Just a little bit of relief on that tab and the starter came out as shown. I took the starter apart. Mine was not dirty. However, the copper bands on the armature where the brushes make contact were blackened. I am assuming this is just from electrical current passing over the surface. I took some fine grit sandpaper and brought it back to copper only. Also, for some reason, the engineers decided to cheapen out and put a bushing instead of a bearing at the back of the starter. I lubed this with a little bit of dielectric grease. After I put it back in, no more hot start issue. I think the blackened contact surface where the brushes meet the armature make it so the starter cannot generate enough power to get things done.

Best video in the history of

That is going to be one sharp looking truck. Thanks for sharing.

Ah cool ill have to try this as my passenger bulb stopped working i went and bought a new bulb and realised its not the bulb thats the problem so ill check the fuse and then ill pull the master plug and have a look inside. I also have an issue with my s80 rear led break lights, they stay on even after locking the car which is grim because it sucks the battery down overnight and other than unplugging them every night theres no other way to turn them off and then my 3rd and last issue is my high beam stalk doesnt hold the high beams on it dont click anymore so i have to hold them on in lanes. Lol i should scrap the car really

An automotive guy with welds like that? He must get pallets of grinding wheels.

hi, i would like to know what are the sizes of both nuts please thanks !

Great idea I like it

that "spring" door design is pretty clever. looking forward to an operating video

Where do you get one of those? Scrap yard let you look around?

Please don't use imitation vanilla!!!!!

What was the torque spec at the end.. that’s why I’m here 😅😅😅

This also works woth the odes utvs aswell

Lookin good, but I worry about your bucket tipping. I’d break a hip…😉😉

great job

Thank you sir. Very helpful

how did you fix it?

I’ve got a low mileage Can Am XT Outlander meticulously maintained never mudded, looks new & wouldn’t start after it warmed up? I took off the right side panels(oil change style) took the starter out & apart, surprisingly it was filthy, cleaned the brushes & lower armature ( all else) replaced & starts like new. Denso starter is too light for a 1000cc engine. I expect a starter like that on my 15hp lawn mower…can am dropped the ball big time on that one for sure.

muito bom , me ajudou muito

Awesome vid mate good job

This 100% fixed my issue. Thanks brother! Works on new evo units as well

yea, kept it idiotically simple . What he showed MAY be the problem or MAYBE NOT , with this kind of unfinished videos we will never know

Thank you .. that was my problem ...

When I’m parking in low low rpm, I feel my engine or transmission vibrating. Normal driving is fine but when I’m in low rpm’s I get the vibration. Does this help with that problem?

Thank you! I have 2015 & this was my problem. 👍🏽

That is my Grandpa and Uncle and I can back up what they said,this recipe is amazing!

Thank you I was about to go crazy same exact problem. Pulled transmission and fixed it wouldn't crank found your video bam same exact issue. Awesome thank you I was about to pour gas all over the truck and walk away I was at my breaking point about a week after changing parts!

Just one note,for the hood release unhook wires outside (under the hood) first then just unhook under steering . Simple and easy

I see the problem, but how did you fix it ?

what is the size of the socket?

The tool to remove the transmission-line fittings can be an 85108826, for 15 mm fittings, and 85108827 for 18 mm. You are not the first to use a small zip tie. The tools are pricey.

The part number for the drain hose is 9996049.

Excellent video, you showed alot of info other videos left out, thank you.

Thank you sir so much for showing how to do those two hoses with the zip ties

great, I'll give it a try with my S60. This morning- no lights. I checked, and later it worked, but after 15 minutes, another start - no lights...

Fixed min in 5 min thank you didn’t even need to watch another video worked on first try

I have the same problem on my 99 fourtrax. Thanks man.

Will this cause a crank no start my neighbors 09 pretty sure this is the issue

get to the point

Thank you

Bro you are the real mvp just saved me hundreds of dollars