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See link in the description, thx.

Thank you she’s ready to go to a new owner who will hopefully take good care of her.

Thank you for your comment, it means a lot to me. 😊

Doing it on dry land helps you see exactly how much you need as it exits with dark color but most of all this method targets the entire system, flushing 100% of lines from the outtake, thru the air conditioning unit, to the strainer and all the way of the intake. There’s not a lot of line ahead of the strainer but I know it’s winterized. I hope that makes sense. Thanks for the question.

@jeffreycraigo5156 yes thanks. I'll most likely continue doing it this way.

In the Great Lakes region we always do this out of the water. Assuming you’re keeping it in water that doesn’t freeze I think it makes sense to close the valve. Maybe a partner can close the valve as soon as the antifreeze exits so you don’t get water from the back pressure? Good luck. 👍🏻

my sea cock is all seasons!!

Cheers! 🍻

Class of ‘89.

@@jeffreycraigo5156 96

..ha

Thanks for asking… On the starboard side that gets the south side Sun at the dock it began failing at 3-1/2 months which I expected. I applied a quick fresh layer of spray ceramic that extended the shine and water repellent properties about another 6 weeks. Better than wax and a good price that’s for sure! Next spring I hope to provide another value product that I hope lasts a few months longer. Take care, stay safe. - Mr Jeff

Hi Mark. No noticeable difference for me on the cruiser after cleaning the arresters but they’re normally pretty clean without huge build up. You may want to check the plugs as I find them to effect fuel efficiency and other performance. Best of luck and stay safe on the water.

Try doing a tune up. New distributor cap, wires, plugs and fuel filter. It worked for me.

Did you find your fix? Going through the same thing.

Hi Luigi. I'm curious where you are located? We are in Vermilion, Ohio on Lake Erie, one of the Great Lakes of the USA. My air conditioning pump is in the very back corner of the stern, down in the bilge area on the starboard side. However, this can vary based on the year of the boat. My Sea Ray 320 is a 2005 model year so your client's pump may be in another location. Usually the air conditioning pump is near the water strainer (filter) and seacock valve. Before changing the pump (you mention it's working) there are a couple of simple things to consider: 1) the thermostat is set low enough for the condenser to begin pumping the water, otherwise, the fan may only be blowing but the evaporator is not exchanging the heat (this happened to me, early in the Spring, I had to turn it to 55F), 2) the seacock valve is fully open, allowing the pump to push plenty of water through the system and, 3) under the v-berth bed, be sure the air system is very clean especially the coils and the air filter screens are free of dirt/ dust or other restrictions (use a vacuum or spray with a hose outside the boat, if the filter is metal and let it dry before replacing) and make sure the drain plug is clear so water passes from the metal water tray while you are cleaning the area under the v-berth. If in fact the water is flowing through the system (the water is exiting the outlet of the haul) and the thermostat is set low enough, the condenser of the air system unit may be expired. Sorry I'm not a professional, but these are a few things that have helped me in the past. It may be best to have a professional air conditioning electrician verify everything, before replacing components on your own. Best of luck! Jeff