- Видео 271
- Просмотров 308 659
Americansupercar
США
Добавлен 27 июл 2011
Custom and restoration shop , Specializing in Pro street ,pro touring ,race and Show cars with Emphasis on pro tips and teaching and just daily life in the shop
Weekend Wrapup for 12/13/24
Progress on the Chevelle ,Studebaker ,T bird and the 69 COE
Просмотров: 191
Видео
Trunk lid adjustments / alignment explanation
Просмотров 1,4 тыс.Месяц назад
An explanation on different methods to adjust your Deck lid (trunk lid)
55 T bird door and WHY we strip to bare metal
Просмотров 1514 месяца назад
Sal Parino "s 55 T bird and answering why we strip to bare metal
Bryan Wolf"s Camaro heads for home
Просмотров 1956 месяцев назад
Completed Bryan Wolf"s Camaro ready to leave ,So one last look before it goes
66 Shelby heads for home
Просмотров 1998 месяцев назад
66 Shelby completion headed for home ,The owner who is very capable is going to assemble .We look foward to seeing it completed
Weekend Wrapup for 3/1/24
Просмотров 1609 месяцев назад
A quick look at the progress in the shop for the week of 3/1/24
Bending door hinges for door alignment
Просмотров 4 тыс.9 месяцев назад
Explanation and demonstration of bending door hinges for alignment purposes
Weekend Wrapup for 12/22/23 Blaster
Просмотров 257Год назад
just a look at the process of blasting a car
(Sheet metal 101 Episode 2 ) DYI sheet metal brackets with the dimple die
Просмотров 146Год назад
(Sheet metal 101 Episode 2 ) DYI sheet metal brackets with the dimple die
Hammer time ( metal work 101 Episode 1 )
Просмотров 256Год назад
Hammer time ( metal work 101 Episode 1 )
Hey i have a 92 Camaro 70k on it, i replaced the weatherstripping two kits fairchild and soff seal. soff seal being somewhat better. not made of the same foam the original was the new stuff is rubber instead of rubber covered foam like the originals. I have now replaced the bottom long pin and bushings with GM parts, and the top two small pins with a dorman kit that bolts together with a lock nut, the top hinges one of the brass bushings was fairly loose, but problem is since ive replaced the weather stripping, i cant get the glass where the a pillar and the triangle weather stripping to come up evenly to level out, i can get the rest of the glass even but not the first part. i had to remove the hinges to replace the pins and cant seem to get the top hinge to move up. even after loosening all the bolts on both top and bottom hinges. I also have replaced the latch with a gm latch, is there something im missing? im thinking that top hinge is just to worn out, the hinge on the door is welded to it and the hinge to the body is bolted. to give some history the drivers side has always been hard to shut, the passenger side is perfect. And when i opened it up it has been messed with before.
One of the best 👍 honest hard working guys you will find. I'm so Blessed his shop is around the corner from our place 🙏👍
Where is ur shop located any opening for a paint job 1970 Chevelle NO RUST already stripped to the metal.
Were in Springhill FL No opening anytime soon pretty busy ,Depend on your time frame
excellent explanation
excellent explanation
You have to open the door and point to the hinges your referring to. There are bolts inside that jam that are northward, and then other bolts that point east or west. So we need to know which bolts affect the doors alignment
Awesome instructions
Where are you located at? I'm in Ohio...
Springhill Florida
Thank you!
I have a 1961 Econoline truck I remove the door to put electric windows in and new weather stripping on the doors had no problem till I reinstalled the doors I cannot get them to close all the way the pin in the hinges has a little play do you think that the weather stripping could be the culprit? as to why the door doesn't close all the way?( the old weather stripping was the original.)
Probably ,move the striker out and shut the it will be tight as the weatherstrip crushes in a few days keep moving it in waiting a day or so till you get it aligned
This worked great on my 88 Mustang vert, fox. Saggy door. Got creative with a socket on bottom hinge and it worked just as you showed us! Great hack! Thank you. Will keep this one in my back pocket.
Fascinating and educational. Surely I am about to make my door worse but like you said, little increments and I may have success! Thanks for a great explanation and the X!!
Great video, hey I have a 68 GTO which I bought a trunk lid from franks Pontiac parts, well this newer lid sticks up on the drivers side, I'm a little squeamish hitting it as you demonstrated because i also have new quarter panels,, the original lid fits perfect but has a couple of rust holes,, do you have more tutorials on how to bend the lid? by the way the old lid when I flip them both over and compare when they are off the car looks flatter then the newer one when they are upside down,,, is there a way to flatten the lid when its off the car?
You got my cutoffs on!
Excellent video. Glad I ran into it. Don’t need it but I sure learnt something new here.
That was excellent information. I’m having trouble with the new Striker bolt . I have removed the front fender installed new door hinges , new door latch & lined up the door . The striker seems to be in line but it doesn’t always open using the door handle. It opens every time from inside the car with ease ? What am doing wrong?
It's possible the outside handle is not engaging the latch if the inside handle works everything which is common if You tell me what kind of car maybe I can help
It’s my 1968 Camaro driver side . Everything is new .
Put the old outside door handle back sometimes the rod is to short even though its new I have seen many new handles with a penny glues on the latch wher the rod hits in@cjsciandra2623
Dr. Phil, great advice!
I have been told you can add some reducer and spray it through a regular spray gun to make the finish texture even finer/smoother. Have you tried this? I am hoping to have a fish similar to sandpaper. Thanks for the informative videos.
Have never heard that ,it's hard to believe you could get it thin enough but the gun it comes with the higher the air pressure the finer it comes out
I could have used this video 2 months ago Phil!
Man, I'm still a little confused by the X movement. If the striker is still installed then I see the rotational movement on an axis from the striker to the non-moving hinge. Basically making a V with the tape from hinges to the striker. Without the striker installed I would think it would behave like opening an oven door. when you pulled the top out, the entire top of the door would move out and the entire bottom would move in, all pivoting around the lower hinge horizontal axis.
Hey you seem very knowledgeable about old cars I was wondering there’s any place I could reach you and ask you about certain issues I’m having with my 67 Galaxie
My problem is the door frame has been bent inward thus making the bottom 2 screw pins that are attached to the door not being straight out at 90 degrees anymore - I will assume I have to try to bang out the frame to straighten the pins from the inside of the door frame itself as opposed to this method you show here?
Thank you. That worked for me. My left rear door had some trouble closing all the way sometimes. I noticed it was out at the bottom. Now it's perfect.
how do I adjust up ?
thanks man!
thankuuuu!!!!
I do have a question sir. Replaced the passenger side door on my 1980 Pontiac Gand Prix. Both hinges and pins are good, Org, door was rusty, so installed a good used one. Door to qtr. panel and door to fender gaps are pretty good and it closes and opens ok. The whole door needs to be raised to align the top of the door {where the window sweeps are on top} to the body lines. In other words, there is an 1/8 gap between the window glass and the window weatherstrip when the window is raised all the way up in the closed position. I did not remove the hinges from the cowl, they are in the factory installed position. I only removed the hinge to door bolts. I was just going to loosen those bolts and either place a floor jack under the center of the door a little to lift it and retighten the bolts, or loosen the bolts, close the door gently and use an angled piece of 2x4 between the bottom of the door and the rocker panel to force the door up. By the way, the front fender is still on and in the same position since 1980. Will prying up on the door bend or damage the door bottom lip and or rocker panel? Any advice will be great. Thanks
If the sheetmetal is aligned and looks good there is adjustments inside the door to move glass in and out ,if it's the sheetmetal you would see the it pushed in at rocker ,in that case loosen lower hindge on door side and pull out ( may need to slightly loosen top hindge door side to allow it to move ,if I understood you correctly this should help
Is there a way for me to send photographs of what I am talking about? I think you misunderstood the door Sheetmetal alignment problem that is causing the glass to be short on travel.
Yes email to americansupercar@gmail.com
First and foremost, that is a good-looking RED on the Pontiac. And copper trim adds class.
Copper. Projects looking good. Nice work gentlemen.
Thanks 👍
Copper
Copper definitely
Painted
God bless you
Good video. I took both hinges off. Bought new ones for 68 mustang. Do l have to take the front fender off to get the door correctly on? Cause fooling with the adjustment bolts is a bear!
It is possible to install door with fender inplace but it will try your patience
Very useful explanation!
I need to raise my left door on my 73 El Comino. Please reply. Thank you.
The whole door or just the back? You need to look at all the gaps to know what is wrong for example if the back of the door is low the top front will have a larger gap
How about got a big gap and sticks out a little i tried adjusting doesnt work
Where is the gap and where is it sticking out
@Americansupercar hi the gap is on the rear left door it's like 1 cm and sticks out a bit but the door closes. If I loosen the bolts and push the car door to make it smaller and flush, as soon as I tighten the bolts it goes back to the gap and sticking out. This is a junkyard replacement but compatible years it should fit lol
Im sorry i guess i wasent clear where is it sticking out the whole back of door from top to bottom or lower or upper part of back of door a pick or video would be helpful@herbbot8241
@Americansupercar the whole thing is like sticking out from top to bottom it's not flush and there's like a cm gap it's annoying when ever I tighten bolts it goes back to that position
@@Americansupercar if its the whole back of the door you need to loosen the striker pin and move it in ,that should pull the door in
Excellent explanation! Thank you!
Very good explanation on door alignment .
Awesome man thank you
is kilmat a combination of thin cardboard and aluminium foil?if yes then please reply.My keychron keyboard is on its way and i can't seem to find kilmat here in Pakistan.Can i make it that way ?
No it's more like a tar paper with aluminum cover there is a roofing meterial call peel and stick that might be avaible very similer
Great job
No other video on youtube tops this one. Great explanation and thank you
Joke what policies did they mention that will actually help? JOKE
Got u that X did it
Panel bond extremely hard hold up
👍🏻👍🏻
What do you use to replace the lead afterwards? All Metal? Fiberglass? Lead the seam again? I’ve seen someone weld a constant weld using patch to bridge the gap. What is your opinion?
This was very helpful. If you are replacing a quarter panel would align the door to the rocker panel/front cowl and then align the quarter panel to the door?
Just replaced my driver's door that was damaged in an accident and the new door doesn't close all the way (maybe a bent mount). Hopefully this will fix it. Thanks for the video!