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Ty

Thanks for the tips and techniques

That’s one beautiful car you did a great job, my friend

So my issue on my '72 Camaro is at 5:09. Both sides of the trunk lid. It appears my car was hit in the rear. My car is painted, if I screw this up using your method, I know where I can get a replacement which will need to be re-painted. I will definitely cover the wood in carpet because I am installing a new carpet kit as we speak and have old carpet to spare.

Very helpful thanks

Can the rest of the door be removed past the panel I need to get to the lock

Excellent explanation thank you.

thanks, explanation on the point !

Nice video, but can I come visit you, both my doors are quarter inch low on my 72 Camaro 😢

Do rear doors need alignment

Morning, I have a 69’ Camaro and my passenger door shuts past its stopping point. The door goes in to much not giving me the flush look when closed. Any suggestions on how to fix this?

Hi. I have boot lid that's sits low at the hinges after a seal panel replacement. Appropriate quarter inch low. Not sure if I can manipulate the hinges or look at the repair where the hinges attach. Any help would be appreciated

If you need to increase the gap between the front and rear door, are you supposed to lift (support) the door w/Jack Lift a bit? I even don't know, I need to adjust the gaps on a newly installed door, but that door doesn't move forward at all. I don't know what it is, I've released the hinge bolts and tried to move forward (I practically have no gap between the front and rear door), but it doesn't work, it didn't move a single mm. Or I do smth wrong, or the A-pillar was bent till the point that you can't do those adjustments. It doesn't show anything visually, but the front door was damaged badly. Or maybe you need to do it w/support of the Jack Lift. The Fender is off of course. I would appreciate any opinions on this matter. Thank you for the informative film.

If you need to increase the gap between the front and rear door, are you supposed to lift (support) the door w/Jack Lift a bit? I even don't know, I need to adjust the gaps on a newly installed door, but that door doesn't move forward at all. I don't know what it is, I've released the hinge bolts and tried to move forward (I practically have no gap between the front and rear door), but it doesn't work, it didn't move a single mm. Or I do smth wrong, or the A-pillar was bent till the point that you can't do those adjustments. It doesn't show anything visually, but the front door was damaged badly. Or maybe you need to do it w/support of the Jack Lift. The Fender is off of course. I would appreciate any opinions on this matter. Thank you for the informative film.

Thank you so very much for this detailed explanations, especially for pointing out that the nuts which holt the door on the hinges can also be used for the alignment, before I thought only about the bolts which attach the hinges to the frame. I need to adjust a newly installed door on our 2009 Nissan Sentra. The old one was damaged by the hit, so we bought another door and replacing it. The big question is about alignment. In Shop Manual I have for that car they give all the numbers for door adjustment which should be done after the installation of a new door. They say you release the bolts which keep the door on the frame and make the necessary adjustments. Now I see how to set the mm-s they advise, like here 4 mm gap, there 5 mm gap, everything on the picture, they show those gaps, but I had no clue how to set them. And also there are several films w/a special adjustment tool, like Leslie Door Adjustment Tool (Amazon), where people just lift the door without tightening anything. How that procedure id related to the method you described here. Are they are 2 different and independent procedures on a door alignment? Thank you for this informative film again.

Thank you very much for pointing out that the nuts which holt the door on the hinges can also be used for the alignment, before I thought only about the bolts which attach the hinges to the frame. I need to adjust a newly installed door on our 2009 Nissan Sentra. The old one was damaged by the hit, so we bought another door and replacing it. The big question is about alignment. In Shop Manual I have for that car they give all the numbers for door adjustment which should be done after the installation of a new door. They say you release the bolts which keep the door on the frame and make the necessary adjustments. There are several films w/a special adjustment tool, like Leslie Door Adjustment Tool (Amazon), where people just lift the door without tightening anything. Are they are 2 different procedures on a door alignment? Thank you for so informative film again.

So thorough and concise and logical! Best explanation! Thanks!

Like the commercials "even a caveman can do it".

Hey i have a 92 Camaro 70k on it, i replaced the weatherstripping two kits fairchild and soff seal. soff seal being somewhat better. not made of the same foam the original was the new stuff is rubber instead of rubber covered foam like the originals. I have now replaced the bottom long pin and bushings with GM parts, and the top two small pins with a dorman kit that bolts together with a lock nut, the top hinges one of the brass bushings was fairly loose, but problem is since ive replaced the weather stripping, i cant get the glass where the a pillar and the triangle weather stripping to come up evenly to level out, i can get the rest of the glass even but not the first part. i had to remove the hinges to replace the pins and cant seem to get the top hinge to move up. even after loosening all the bolts on both top and bottom hinges. I also have replaced the latch with a gm latch, is there something im missing? im thinking that top hinge is just to worn out, the hinge on the door is welded to it and the hinge to the body is bolted. to give some history the drivers side has always been hard to shut, the passenger side is perfect. And when i opened it up it has been messed with before.

One of the best 👍 honest hard working guys you will find. I'm so Blessed his shop is around the corner from our place 🙏👍

Where is ur shop located any opening for a paint job 1970 Chevelle NO RUST already stripped to the metal.

excellent explanation

excellent explanation

You have to open the door and point to the hinges your referring to. There are bolts inside that jam that are northward, and then other bolts that point east or west. So we need to know which bolts affect the doors alignment

Awesome instructions

Where are you located at? I'm in Ohio...

Thank you!

I have a 1961 Econoline truck I remove the door to put electric windows in and new weather stripping on the doors had no problem till I reinstalled the doors I cannot get them to close all the way the pin in the hinges has a little play do you think that the weather stripping could be the culprit? as to why the door doesn't close all the way?( the old weather stripping was the original.)

This worked great on my 88 Mustang vert, fox. Saggy door. Got creative with a socket on bottom hinge and it worked just as you showed us! Great hack! Thank you. Will keep this one in my back pocket.

Fascinating and educational. Surely I am about to make my door worse but like you said, little increments and I may have success! Thanks for a great explanation and the X!!

Great video, hey I have a 68 GTO which I bought a trunk lid from franks Pontiac parts, well this newer lid sticks up on the drivers side, I'm a little squeamish hitting it as you demonstrated because i also have new quarter panels,, the original lid fits perfect but has a couple of rust holes,, do you have more tutorials on how to bend the lid? by the way the old lid when I flip them both over and compare when they are off the car looks flatter then the newer one when they are upside down,,, is there a way to flatten the lid when its off the car?

You got my cutoffs on!

Excellent video. Glad I ran into it. Don’t need it but I sure learnt something new here.

That was excellent information. I’m having trouble with the new Striker bolt . I have removed the front fender installed new door hinges , new door latch & lined up the door . The striker seems to be in line but it doesn’t always open using the door handle. It opens every time from inside the car with ease ? What am doing wrong?

Dr. Phil, great advice!

I have been told you can add some reducer and spray it through a regular spray gun to make the finish texture even finer/smoother. Have you tried this? I am hoping to have a fish similar to sandpaper. Thanks for the informative videos.

I could have used this video 2 months ago Phil!

Man, I'm still a little confused by the X movement. If the striker is still installed then I see the rotational movement on an axis from the striker to the non-moving hinge. Basically making a V with the tape from hinges to the striker. Without the striker installed I would think it would behave like opening an oven door. when you pulled the top out, the entire top of the door would move out and the entire bottom would move in, all pivoting around the lower hinge horizontal axis.

Hey you seem very knowledgeable about old cars I was wondering there’s any place I could reach you and ask you about certain issues I’m having with my 67 Galaxie

My problem is the door frame has been bent inward thus making the bottom 2 screw pins that are attached to the door not being straight out at 90 degrees anymore - I will assume I have to try to bang out the frame to straighten the pins from the inside of the door frame itself as opposed to this method you show here?

Thank you. That worked for me. My left rear door had some trouble closing all the way sometimes. I noticed it was out at the bottom. Now it's perfect.

how do I adjust up ?

thanks man!

thankuuuu!!!!

I do have a question sir. Replaced the passenger side door on my 1980 Pontiac Gand Prix. Both hinges and pins are good, Org, door was rusty, so installed a good used one. Door to qtr. panel and door to fender gaps are pretty good and it closes and opens ok. The whole door needs to be raised to align the top of the door {where the window sweeps are on top} to the body lines. In other words, there is an 1/8 gap between the window glass and the window weatherstrip when the window is raised all the way up in the closed position. I did not remove the hinges from the cowl, they are in the factory installed position. I only removed the hinge to door bolts. I was just going to loosen those bolts and either place a floor jack under the center of the door a little to lift it and retighten the bolts, or loosen the bolts, close the door gently and use an angled piece of 2x4 between the bottom of the door and the rocker panel to force the door up. By the way, the front fender is still on and in the same position since 1980. Will prying up on the door bend or damage the door bottom lip and or rocker panel? Any advice will be great. Thanks

First and foremost, that is a good-looking RED on the Pontiac. And copper trim adds class.

Copper. Projects looking good. Nice work gentlemen.

Copper

Copper definitely

Painted