Видео

wow i couldnt even wtch this nonsense seriously dude you nee to find another hobby than making youtube videos.

I still don't have a 4K monitor for the bench, though I do now have a monitor for my bench computer and other uses. This video is from when I first put the bench together and is not current in terms of what I have. This video is more recent, though still a year old: ruclips.net/video/n58T3RqK1xs/видео.html - I'm considering making an update video again.

Ok, in order: Sorin (they guy who reviewed the 4 models) is an awesome gentleman. (not an answer to anything but I felt he deserves the shout out) Replace AF202 with Risingcam? There are multiple parts to this. First, you mentioned not getting as good image over WiFi: DO THIS FIRST: even though it is not well placed, please try connecting by wire (try both USB and HDMI) and check your image quality again. Wired will be more reliable, and for WiFi the camera is very likely downgrading your image quality for the sake of bandwidth issues. You may be satisfied with image quality by wired connection. ALSO there are right-angle USB and HDMI adapters you can buy for cheap. With that said, it's very subjective. Is the RisingCam camera likely to give better image? Somewhere between maybe and probably - it's more complex than just 'A is better than B', though for what it’s worth I would personally choose the RisingCam over the AmScope camera. RisingCam (the model I have, the RT5109) uses the Sony IMX334 sensor and (as best as I can deduce since AmScope doesn't explicitly say) the AF202 uses the IMX185 sensor. The IMX334 has about 8MP with a pixel size of 2uM square and can do 4K output, the IMX185 has about 2MP with a pixel size of 3.75uM and can do 1080p - but with microscope cameras megapixels aren't everything, and after a certain amount really don't make much difference. Pixel size matters also - the larger the pixel, the more light each pixel can take in and sense finer values for as well as being better for low-light applications. Your C-mount adapter will work fine for the RisingCam - it’s a threaded connector standard, no problems there. You will need the 5mm spacer but that is a cheap generic item you can get on eBay or Amazon or AliExpress. The 5mm spacer is also just standard C-mount female to male threading, also universal for C-mounts. The polarizing filter is independent of camera model. Any polarizing filter that mounts like mine (meant to mount on a microscope) should work - keep in mind those filter MOUNTS are dependent on the size of your microscope head end - mine is adjustable to fit between about 45mm and 64mm I think.

Thanks so much for the reply; in reality I haven't used the AF202 yet, I bought it some time ago with the intention of using it, I never had the time to do it, I'm about to do it these days but after seeing the reviews in favor of the Rising I stopped so as not to ruin it and not be able to sell it as new. I asked you for your opinion precisely to confirm the choice of the Rising since the image actually seems noticeably better from the videos I saw on RUclips. Thank you

@@stefanosorice8498 Ooh, ok. You're welcome.

Overall, the backpack this is in is less focused on being something like a BOB or get-home-bag, and more generalist, but the term 'Get Home Bag' is more commonly understood and is... adjacent at least to part of the role that backpack fills. It's for a bunch of different use cases that don't all sum up readily into a single term.

@@neverendingstudent Ahhh Okay was just wondering. TYVM for the Reply.

Honestly, it's been a while since I put this together. I want to say it was a difference in which bits were included? But I don't remember for sure, it may just have been that one was on sale enough to make it worth the difference. Hmm.. possibly another answer is that I found out about the Klein flip set *after* having already bought the Wera TCP and decided then to switch things around.

It's practical. Doesn't come up much, but I've had a friend lock themselves out of there home before.

Thank you kindly! I do have an updated look at it if you are interested: ruclips.net/video/n58T3RqK1xs/видео.html - which is from a year ago now.. huh. A lot has changed since even my newer video, I might need to make another update.

Hm. Not for me specifically I think. Like so many things, the twin force can't really be said to be 'better' or 'worse' than either the CoBolt, or the standard Knipex side cutters - they have different trade-offs to do the best job they can at one aspect of the cutter tool. Traditional side cuts are a great all-rounder, they open wide enough for most things, action in the hand feels great, they're just great at what they do. The CoBolt makes some trade offs to give you significantly improved mechanical advantage for your cuts in addition to having heavier, more durable cutting knives. The twin force is *kind of* a middle ground - there is no leverage multiplier in the way the CoBolt does things, but the design does allow the pivot point to rest *right at* the base of the cutting knives which improves cutting force - but you do get a trade off in jaw opening - the twin force can't open nearly as wide as the standard cutters. They're a good tool, but using that vs another model is mostly down to application and personal preference - I can't really say one is objectively better than another.

I love the things. They are just so well designed and executed. While the set in this pouch may not see much action, the set in my primary toolbag get a lot of use and appreciation.

@@neverendingstudent Lol you can't read the labels on mine and the beautiful thing is I bought them from a tool truck so as soon as they wear out I get a brand spanking new one for free.

Thank you! OH, you're the guy who I'm super jealous of who got that stack of 34401a's from college dumpster rescue! I'm still jealous and that was awesome. Your electronics bench / lab / area / super tall corner? - also very cool.

You're welcome. I'm glad it was useful to you.

So... there doesn't seem to be a practical upper limit on what you can spend on a cable tester/analyzer/certifier. Total Phase, for example, makes their Cable Tester V2 for $15,000. A tad bit rich for my blood. At a bit of a step down, Broadata makes the LinkBridge HDMI signal generator& analyzer... for around $2,000. Still a bit steep. In terms of finding devices that will actually do more than just say 'yep, them there wires ain't broke' and will instead certify that all ranged of maxed data throughput HDMI signals go through and give you things like error rates and such... they really aren't cheap. You could gamble for something on aliexpress that claims or seems to infer it will do what you want, and you might actually get lucky and get what you're after without breaking the bank, but it may end up be an exercise in gambling. Best idea I can come up with is have a device that puts out the maximum HDMI signal you want to test (maybe a computer with a high-end graphics card or a blu-ray player?) and a TV that can display the maximum HDMI signal you want to test. Use a known good HDMI cable to verify the setup works, then swap ONLY the known good cable for the one you want to test. It isn't perfect, and won't guarantee catching things like inadequate shielding or intermittent faults, but it's probably the best you can easily do without flushing a bunch of money down the drain for a single specialty tool.

Thank you kindly!

It's an AmScope microscope, specifically the AmScope 3.5X-45X SM-4TPX. I like it just fine for my use-case, the magnification range gives me everything I need for working on electronics and the occasional curiosity I have to look at random stuff. If you want one for electronics use or mechanical like watchmaking, then yes, I feel I can recommend it. That is not to say there isn't better out there for what you want out of a microscope, or possibly cheaper for what you need out of it. I always recommend doing your own research for your specific use-case. Whatever you might choose, I DO strongly recommend the trinocular feature - the clarity you get from direct optics (looking through the eyepieces) will always be superior to camera/display.

I'm really happy that my video was helpful for you. Thank you for letting me know!

I'm glad I helped someone find out about Medicat - super useful program.

To my moderate embarrassment, I only recently learned of this (the adjustment feature on the parking brake at the wheels).

@@neverendingstudent we all have those moments

Thank you.

Very true. I need to get a Lav mic - it's on my to-do list. I had one but either it was faulty or incompatible with my phone.

Yes, my phone isn't great for audio. I need to get a quality Lav mic, it is on my to-do list.

Oh, I totally understand, and you are absolutely correct. I don't take that as insult or undue criticism at all. This was one of my earlier videos in shake-o-vision (tm) from before I owned a tripod. I still have problems with audio in my newer stuff which I want to solve with a lav mic. I had a cheap one, but could never get it to function (it may have actually been defective) - but like everything, quality costs. It's on my list-of-many-things, but like the name says, so many things are on the list.

I'm glad it was useful to you.

Thanks for stopping by and having a look. Glad I could give you some ideas, and I like what you are doing on your channel.

I'm not finding search results on that term. Do you have a better description / tool name / a brand that makes this? That, or an Amazon 'ASIN' number?

Thanks for stopping by, it is appreciated. I'm close to the point I'll want to post another update, but 'close' for me... well, we'll see when it happens.

BEFORE REMOVAL: to save a ton of frustration, TIE A CORD TO THE OLD CABLE ON THE END AT YOUR SEAT so you can use that cord / rope / whatever to guide and pull the new one through. Look at 2 minutes and 5 seconds. Unscrew the nut holding the existing cable to the bottom of the driver seat. Look over the cable under the van and unbolt / unscrew the 2 or 3 connectors holding the cable to the bottom of the van. Unscrew the nut holding the other end of the cable (close to the pivot point at the middle of the van underside). At that point the cable is fully detached and you can pull it out. Make sure to NOT allow the pull rope you tied off to fall through, you want that threaded through the entrance into the van interior. After that, tie the end of your new cable to the pull line you used, wrap it in electrical tape to give it a smooth taper and eliminate things that could catch on stuff you can't see, then pull the new cable through that gland and into the van next to the driver seat. After that, repeat everything else in reverse.

Edit: Ah, I'm guessing you found the part of the video where I mention the light model. Yeah, it's a low-cost item that really gives you an impressive improvement in imaging results. It's the iFixes iL37, dozens of sellers on AliExpress sell it. While I'm sure there are options that are qualitatively better for providing adjustable polarized light (I will note that what I have allows some 'spillover' by not perfectly blocking all the LED output and making sure everything goes through the polarizing filter), it is *for sure* the current best bang for your buck. You can get it for around the $22 range while other options are over $100. Given the tech is just an LED ring light and 2 polarized light filters, the other options that are priced at over $100 are just inexcusable in my opinion.

@@neverendingstudent Ya I just purchased one on ALI. I found one for $18.90 with a coupon. Ya I agree 100$ for a polarizer is a bit steep. Thanks again for the video !

@@shiftctrlhack Very welcome!

@@neverendingstudent I just noticed your UI is slightly different than mine. They must have a firmware update after I purchased mine. I do not have the " Framerate " I'm going to message them and see. I noticed my auto exposure is really bright / strong when I zoom in or out on some boards. My camera does get warm to the touch like Sorins too. My brightness defaults to 46 too.

@@shiftctrlhack For mine, I found that when you do stuff that weirds-out the brightness, just clicking on the slide-bar for brightness and doing any adjustment, even if you end up back at the original number, fixes it - at least on my firmware version. As for the framerate: I mentioned in my review (the review I posted on AliExpress) that I was running mine at 30FPS and maybe they removed the option to 'idiot-proof' the firmware to prevent the perception that it wasn't running at 60FPS. What firmware version do you have? Mine lists as 'YW5109_3.0'.

The USB cable I have in there is a high-temp tolerant silicone USB-C cable which is from the Pine store and specifically meant to be used with the Pinecil (so that if you accidentally touch it, it won't melt). To be fair, I just checked and didn't find power ratings listed for the cable, but I know I have used it in the field and was able to solder easily, no issues with the iron getting up to temp quickly or keeping temperature up during soldering.

@@neverendingstudent I recognized the cable and it's good, yes. ...but it doesn't allow you to get the full power of your Pinecil and Anker power bank. It's just that it's a bit of a pity to opt for such an expensive power bank and not use its 140 W capability, since the Pinecil is able to take advantage of it.

@@NicksStuff I had to do some quick googling just now - either I hadn't known (or, more likely I forgot) the Pinecil can support power above the rated 88W. I may look into swapping that now, if I can find a cable that is also silicone-sheathed (I REALLY like the limp-noodle feel and how it doesn't push back at all when I want to set the iron down on my stand). Edit: found on Aliexpress, looks like Miniware makes a 1 meter silicone USB-C cable with EPR support for high-wattage, currently at ~$7. Nice.

@@neverendingstudent $7 only!? Can you share the link?

I found item 1005006738430684 but it's not in stock

Thank you! The bench has developed quite a bit since I made this Ver.1 video and it's getting close to time to do Ver.3. Probably after I finish 2 items: I'm working on sound-reduction for my fume extractor and I need to redo the connection to my main work area LED strip. If you want to see the Ver.2 update it is here: ruclips.net/video/n58T3RqK1xs/видео.html

1. I know about ferro rods, but I've just found plain ol bic lighters to be long-term storage reliable that I have a couple of those in the pack. Striker rod aside, I actually have a Mora in the backpack - they are just such a lovely rare intersection of good and cheap. 2. Medical I have as separate modules. Used to be a Paramedic earlier in my life and a couple different medical bags live in my van next to the backpack. 3. I'm something of a maximalist and keep sleep gear in the van as well: sleeping bag / neck pillow / inflatable pillow. 4. I think I have a pack of those sitting around in a drawer somewhere. May add one, it is a nice bit of added utility for minimal space/weight. 5. I have spools of the stuff. Yes, there is some in the van. I think there's a medium length hank in the backpack. 6. Headlamps. Very handy for not taking up a hand. There's one in the backpack and others in different kits like my main toolbag and such.

Audio is way too low

@@NiluPaatel It is. I need to get a proper Lav mic - I actually already got one but I cheaped out on a no-name one and it won't work with my phone. It's on my (long) to-do list. Until then, my apologies for the audio levels.

I am definitely that. I will admit to being a well-programmed consumer that derives joy from having the newest bestest thing, at least in certain categories. Mostly tools and some electronics test equipment.

Thank you!

I'm glad it was helpful to you.

Early on when I was posting videos to RUclips, I was just holding the camera in my hand and... not doing the best job of holding still, or at a constant angle, or... most of anything you would associate with terms like 'video quality' or 'production value'. My apologies for inflicting this suffering on your eyes.😵‍💫 We all learn, we all progress as we do stuff. Now at least I have a tripod. I do still need to get and use a Lav mic.

I hear ya! I shoot with an iPhone on a tripod and then use an old iPhone to record audio. Not sophisticated, but it gets the job done. Took me a year to figure out how to edit in Final Cut Pro X. If you want a project to take 3 times longer than it should, make a video about it. 😂

Hail and well met, fellow locksport enthusiast.

It took a few hours, and I should note that while it worked for a while, it was not a permanent fix (probably an imbalance in individual cell health that would be fixed by finding the problem cell and replacing). Still, it was good enough for me. If you are charging a rail and not an individual cell (I'm guessing that's what you mean by first set?), then I would go ahead and kick your current limit up to 2 amps or so. I was being overly cautious at first, but charging 3 or 4 18650s or 21700s in parallel can easily take that current. It will take way less time and so long as you have your voltage set to say, 0.1 volts under the max charge on the cell spec sheet, you're definitely fine. You can lower the current limit back down for the home stretch if you want.

@@neverendingstudent That's good info, thanks. I let it charge overnight and was happy to see that it fully charged that group of cells. My battery was maxing out at 2 led indicator lights, it now shows 3, indicating I'm on the right track... Thanks again for the video and advice...