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Is there any way to get a better view of the red stator. Have the same style.

Hi there, I’m trying to send a picture of my alternator to you to see what you think about it

What about a ford explorer 2017 sport

So if I have a regulator with 3 pins(IG, L, S) I connect only L and S to make it work?

drop some coin on a tripod for the camera

i need that done on some black chrome rims

Thank you for helping me! Thank you sir!

Curious. Is the fender removed as I see the top of the tire?

What amps is the alternator

Hello brother are u still active in this account???

Can u get ahold of me sir. I have a 2 pin ho alt that is 350amp. I'm tring to up my charging from 14v to at least 15+. There's only 2 wires. Red or black. I've alrdy got my diodes wired together but I need to know which wire to tie into. I skinned them both slightly to test them n they both test around 8 on multimeter. Am I doin this correctly??

On the yellow wire is that connect to the alternator post as well as the sense wire.

To the young books just getting started I have a small system maybe 2000 watts total power so I tried it with my stock 150 amp alt it does not work on stock alternators have to have aftermarket Don't ask me why

Get rid of the back fender just doesn't look good. Maybe chop off a few inches then reinstall rear lights accordingly.

Do you have instagram? What’s the best way DM you?

Great work and you done a great job on the bumper

Do you ever loose signal?

dude you fucking rule

😮 how can I is maggots jnvbcch chicken eating maggots add chicken nuggets song that's so weird😅😅

What if your alternator just stops charging at 16 when it was just charging np. Only charges at 14..6-14.9 Replaced regulator and diodes

I bought a Onyx 12 off my buddy blown. 80+ pound motor, its a monster. I planned on doing a beefy single 12" build so, I bought a recone off Resilient Sounds and it came in 2 days but it arrived with a crooked coil 😡. It was built wrong. I'm waiting to see what they do. What they sent me was worthless, its over ¼" off. Coil rubs bad. I'm just glad I dry fit the recone 1st. Anyone have experience with RS customer service? I bought this sub on a whim, I never knew anyone that ran them. I hope they are decent about it and send me a replacement, its a $175 recone and it's useless.

Theres many ways one easy way if u get another battery series it to increase voltage ⚡ other take out the alternator voltage ⚡ regulator n rectifier n use a rheostat potential meter adjustable to increase n decrease digital is better to see how much before engine stalls energy

Why not put the valves closer to the bags for faster lift/dump

Them valves ever work

Hey man I just want to say thank you for your videos. They are super informative and I’ve helped me out a bunch. Now my current situation is I have three subs in the back of my truck and when I have them wired up and running my power steering goes out and I start running and low-voltage with my truck which is a 2014 ram 1500. If you know anything about that truck it’s entirely electric. Which is both good and bad I digress, my question to you is if my alternator is going bad on me is there a way I can fix it or I believe one one of your videos you doubled it up to a high output

Now what do you do with the cars that are computer controlled and drop to 13.6 unless the computer adjusts because it sees that it needs the voltage? I have a 2012 Subaru Outback H4 I seen an article saying something about grounding out a particular wire in the computer harness???? Any input would be appreciated. I have a 360 amp autotech alt

Is it any way to lower the charging voltage?

Yo where did you get your back fender?

Как они варят обмотки

hi need to ask you some questions about stator

How much for a rebuild on 04 silverado ? Can i send you mine?? Awesome vids

AWESOME info for a old school newbie...😂

Wat kind diode are u using ?

Looks great i love it

🔴 I have two of these #OneWireAlternators. One is factory #acdelco 160amp the other is a identically made #powermaster 250amp. Both are grounded to the engine right now via a #dualmountingbracket but each one power wire goes to it's own battery. Basically two charging systems. My question is can I run both #OneWire alternators in parallel by just jumping the one wire over to the other alternator and then splice the factory sense wire and jump it over as well so that the Pcm only sees Basically one high powered alternator❓️Any info would be greatly appreciated. Btw, I left out that right now I'm controling the voltage output on the 250amp with a #PulseWaveModulator that operates at 128hz just like the factory one. I can turn it as low as 11.0 up to 15.4 volts output, but I don't have anything that let's me know that it's completely charged so I can turn it down. The factory alternator does this on it's on via the PCM and I'd like it all to work like that to relieve the guess work.

Great job bringing another 1100 back from hell

Why not run all four bags off of 1?

Buy diodes and resistors. Very important. My js alt on my 05 f250 wouldn’t go past 14.9 no matter how many diodes I added(I went from 14.7 to 14.9) until I added resistors on the “other” wire opposite of the sense wire.

Appreciate the video. Just bought a 97 Heritage Softail with 16k and she's a beauty. Definitely want to keep it as well maintained as her previous owner. Shines like a new dime and runs like a raped ape. Looking forward to putting some serious miles on her, but first I'll be changing all the fluids just to be safe and not sorry...

As a mechanic, all i can say is that there is so much WRONG with doing this and the part failures/severe issues this can/will cause is astounding!! Let me list a couple of potential issues and pose some relevant questions to you: If overcharging via voltage to an AGM or lead acid battery, how do you plan on dealing with the excess gas being vented? Thay gas is explosive, btw. Since this will only work on certain GM/Ford systems, what are you going to tell a Chrysler product owner that tries this and INSTANTLY fries his/her PCM, other ECMs, and potentially quite a bit of the under dash electrical system? European, Asian, and Chrysler products have the voltage regulation circuit built into the Engine PCM. How are you going to deal with the excessive heat, resistance, and internal stator wear of the alternator? An alternator can only produce amperage equal to it's build even if you increase the voltage output. Since voltage x amps = wattage and wattage can be equated to heat, how are you going to deal with the excess heat? If you equate DC electricity to water, I'll use this analogy to make a point: Voltage = water pressure, amperage = water flow volume. Most automobile electronics are made to operate under a set, but small, spectrum of voltage...that being 11.5v to 14.5v in the real world. Since you are increasing the voltage/pressure applied to those electronics, but not the amperage(electronics only "draw or consume" the amperage needed to function), you are now increasing the electrical pressure thus lowering the longevity of said electronics. Think of an electrical part as a stone and voltage as a water pressure jet hitting that stone. At normal pressure, the stone will only erode at a known set rate. Now increase the water pressure, but not the flow amount, and you get something akin to a smaller water jet allowing more pressure to erode the stone faster, especially since this particular water jet will find the weakest part of the stone and concentrate on that point. Remember, in today's vehicles, the battery is used to start the vehicle and then allow itself to be recharged by the alternator; when the engine is running, vehicles now are designed for the alternator to power almost all the electronics while also recharging the battery who's job while running is only to be recharged and supply any needed amperage the alternator can't provide due to momentary excess draw. So much more I could go into, but I'm not. I'll just ask this: What's the point for a few extra tenths of a volt that can/will can major issues while providing no extra amperage, amperage being the " fuel" for electronics? There is no good reason to do this and will only work on a handful of vehicles while causing thousands of dollars of damage to other vehicles. Just add another battery making sure the second battery has the same CCA rating as the primary and is of the same type(Lead acid, AGM, Lithium, and so on) or use a cheaper battery isolator(old Ford or lawnmover starter solenoid work) to run any size and type secondary battery. Just don't do this. This cheap "mod" can and will cost you ALOT more money in the long run. Look into a "Big 3" electrical upgrade and possibly adding a secondary battery.

sounds like my 86 1100

How ya doin? I went on (lightning amp) to look for a stator to DIY. I notice they sell complete 320amp for my Honda. Would you recommend that?

Is the star/wye point grounded to the stator anywhere?

Great video, I noticed this is on 5.7L Vortec model can this be applied on 2003 Burban 5.3L/ 5100 Vortec LS based engine with factory AD244 alt to increase the 14.7 voltage with no load and internal regulator would like to increase voltage for system and would be nice to have sat a controller/ knob to increase when needed and are there mods to increase amp output of OEM units or no and what about eBay hairpin units 300amp clams on a budget don’t have $500 plus dollars to drop on alt, I have two ENERSYS POWERSAFE SBS-190F BATTERY 12v 190AH

Did you change the regulator

G'day bro,,what tank is that and does it fit properly?

Ever since i did this i get more light dim and what seems like slower charging/ more voltage drop. Do i need more bank? Im on a 320 amp alt and 40ah lto, using like 6100 watts

Damn how big is that bank?

I just bought 1 that I'm repairing a bad 4th gear, I need the factory exhaust for mine

And thank you 🙏