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You should have cut a V-groove into the column. That with a mating v-shaped key allows to eliminate lateral slop.

Like these type of videos, so looking forward to your videos.

Thought I’d let you all know that I have been able to confirm that the makers plate on the engine is genuine! It WAS built in 1946 in North Devon by a Les Whillock. He is still alive and just celebrated his 100th birthday! I hope I can get this girl running in time so he can see again!

welsh coal is not the be all end all some stuff from russia will do the trick even better than welsh

Hi Mark, glad to see you back. That looks a nice engine indeed. Looking forward to the strip down videos. Also, a workshop update video would be good? Regards Kevin

Hi Mark, welcome back nice to see you again. Great engine, enjoy 😊

Interesting stream engine. I’m looking forward to seeing what you discover about its history.

Glad you managed to pick up a nice engine. I recently got a 3" scale traction engine too. I am having to do a fair amount of work on it to fix all the hidden issues. I have been adding videos about it on my channel. I am excited to see the progress on your engine. Keep posting updates when you can.

I believe that with no paperwork for the boiler then the boiler is pretty much just scrap. To get a certificate you need to be able to prove the material it was made from and it was welded by someone with the correct qualifications.

Hi, do you have a video of setting up the milling attachment on the Emco Unimat 3? 🤞

Many thanks for the shout out Mark. Much appreciated. ( new sub here ) :)

Greetings from Austin Texas Mark. Good to see someone else doing the mini milling machine. Did you ever finish it, and do you plan to do a video on it? I'm neck deep in the same project right now. Good luck and stay well.

When will be available part 3 ?

i'm i wrong or did you replace the motor of the lathe?

Ouch.. there's still too much wiggle room🤨 At this point I would open up the threaded hole to a M8, and use a bolt with a tapered end, so it sets itself to the ridges of the slot. I think that would improve the repeatability a lot

I must say, that was a fine piece of engineering, well-done sir. regards, Colin, near Bath. UK.

Nice video, glad you left the cockup in I use Dormer centre drills and it would be nice to use Dormer drill bits as well but as I have to have 2 sets from 1mm to 6mm in 0.1mm increments , 1 for steel and the other with negative rake because I restore antique clocks it would be extremely expensive

Stock??? How about material?

hello me love.." here i am again .. oh ! merry xmass and a happy new year.!.i dont suppose you have amongst all your treasured parts ,,, a table for a centec 2 mill.. the one i have is a right state with over tightening the " t " bolts the upper has broke away it wasnt me !. i want it fixed or replaced... can you help ? .by your accent you dont live too far from me " derby notts area ,",, hope you can help regards laurence

You sound very condescending telling people what they cannot afford.

Welcome back, just in time for the holidays 😊

Glad to see you again.

welcom back

It was good to see you! Keep well and see you next time.

Exactly what i was commenting in your first video, nice wiggle between setscrew and the milled slot......😆😆

i think a setscrew is not a really precise and good solution, because after some days of usage its wiggling in the milled slot and so you loose the location anyway. Keep in mind 0,05 mm of play in the slot and you have 0,15 or 0,20 at the milling spindle. A key is in my opinion the much better solution. 😉

Just watched your video, I have a ML10 with roller bearings and I have done the same but only taken 2mm off and have a PeWe tools QCTP Aa and use 8mm bits , I have changed motor to 3 phase and vfd no belt changing , also I have added 2 axis hybrid stepper motors and Rocketronics, as I have gout in both hands I struggle holding and turning dials but I can now just setup what I want in control and it does it for me, waiting for bits to arrive to add thrust washers to crosslide to reduce backlash , I service and restore antique torsion clocks, nice video by the way. Thanks Dell

A better method is (And I know you would have thought of this) is to do the slot in the milling head and screw on a key stock or bar stock onto the round post without flattening it on that one side, as far as the milling head going up and down, it will track very accuratly as there is a longer slot that is lining it up vs a set screw that makes point contacts only. and again ,if you want to rotate the head, you won't be able to, and there's the rub.

How are you keeping? It’s been a while since this video.

hello .. remember me ? i have been on the look out for a bench top mill for jonks i just missed out on one that you had ,,, but now !! i have one ,,!!a centec 2.. horizontal cost me £300.. then i needed the vertical head another £300 so for £600 i have a vertical/horizontal mill.. a bit steep ..but as we say up here derby way yu dunna gerrowt fu nowt.. so basically im chuffed .i want to try to make a lead screw .. the one on the mill has seen better days !thers an old trick to sort out play in the lead screw.. take the nut out and smack it with a hammer! !then put it back .. and hey presto !problem solved... well me love liked your videos if you need any help im all ways here... regards laurence

When centring in the 4 jaw just focus on two opposing jaws at one time. Then once those two are centred move to the other two. You were chasing readings all over the place.

Can't think why you didn't face off the workpiece and centre drill near the collet and then extend to the required length.

I've just found your channel and enjoyed the first video on your modification. The screws holding the vertical column on my Unimat 3s are also pretty tight, so it could be that Emco cut the threads in the bed deliberately tight. I really like the concept of your modification, having experienced the same problems as you. Sadly, I don't have a milling machine to cut a keyway and I don't think that the cross slide travel on my Myford would make cutting the slot accurately very easy. Best wishes.

hello again !been after a milling machine got one ! but sadly no vertical head ..! then if and when i get my vertical head the distance from the bed to cutting head will be greatly reduced..! so then i will need a raiser block ! or make one have you seen the price of 100square x 300mm long ? £ telephone numbers ! one good thing going for centec millers is everything fits everytning !so its plunder on . visit the scrap yards ! and who knows ..i could stumble upon another centec,,!i can but dream ! enjoy the videos ,,, regards laurence

I love your videos but god you take too long to get anything done -- just saying

Out of curiosity (and I'm no engineer here) is there any reason why you made a flat bottomed/square profile slot in the column instead of a V groove? Using a V groove and matching V profile (pointy) grub screw would then auto correct the position of the mill head to exactly 90 degrees every time.

How’s things going with it? I was looking for updates on this after I dropped it off👍

I'm possibly going to do a similar update on my grandads Super 7, so any chance you could add links for the kit of parts, thanks

hello me duck... laurence here from long eaton nr nottingham i have been drooling over your milling machine its an old one and a good solid bit of machinery . if you get another milling machine .. bear me in mind and ill give you a fare price for it.. id sooner do that than lash out my old age pension on some asian mass produced junk regards laurence

Secret sauce

So glad you are back,

After getting my cylinder head done by a local machine shop I can see a surface grinder on the horizon

Was that a handreamer.

Does it have any sort of interlocking to ensure that one gear selector is in neutral before engaging one of the others? Or would it just lock up when you try to start it with a bad combination?

Congratulations! Lennart

What makes this one better that your last milling machine?

I just got into machining and have been uploading videos. I agree there seems to be a lot of tidying up and cleaning required when you want to get a video out.

Thanks for the video, 2 questions 1, did you find out how to adjust the end play 2, if youve not got the fine feed adjuster how to you keep the correct height when milling Thanks

Thanks for the great review mate, hope you have fun with the new mill.

I see why he’s called crack spanner, when he bent over to get the mill out.