Видео

Sorry, no. You'd have to do some empirical testing there. The sender connector is at least fairly easy to get to. You could just jumper it with a 90 ohm resistor to simulate a full tank. Or, mortgage your house and just fill up! :D

Mannn i like to here that i got the same problem

Here's the MFG's site: www.cdxhctech.com/html/edownloads/ Wait for the page to load then look for 'english' in the top right corner.

@@DrFiero I scoured the site from start to finish but couldn't find it =(... do you still have the file? can you upload please?

@@baratagator - I literally just now clicked the link I put above, and it took me RIGHT to the downloads page! YT has no place to put files.

@@DrFiero I'm sorry, I just now saw that despite being very similar, my MPG is different from yours, maybe older, that's why I couldn't find the driver.

There's a metal shield over this one as well - and I've had it in/out a few times with the crank pulley in place. Just for funsies I looked up the harness specifying your year etc - exactly the same part number!

Yup what this guy is showing is not like ours I just did a 2012 gmc 5.3 his was easy the ones we have have another wire harness going over the timing Chain cover up too another sensor and yes same part BUT DIFFERENT HARNESS THEIRS a 3rd bolt right under the main pulley I used a swivel head wratchet wrench and it worked for me thank God but the sensor ballooned in the block took me 3 dam hours to get that thing out and a ton of cuss words this always seems to help me 😂😂.. but yeah same part Different harness

@@eddietrujillo224 - do you have VVT on yours? If so it’s simply not the same engine and would then be a different job.

My 2011 LT 5.3 looks just like this, same thing.

I'll assume you've gained access to it, and got the bolt out - almost for sure you've got "dingy yellow build up" on the portion that extends through the cover. It makes it larger than the hole. So, you can TRY gently pulling on it while turning it around and around. Sometimes that will grind up the scum ring until it lets go. You can also grab some carb cleaner, and blast it down the gap, then pull and turn it a bunch, blast some more... repeat ad nauseam. Carb cleaner is mostly acetone and will dissolve nearly everything. Including your hands! So wear good (not latex) gloves. And don't breath the shit.

When the top breaks off, you'll have to drill a hole in the remaining part of the sensor and thread in a 5" lag bolt to use as leverage to pull out. Not for the faint of heart. Otherwise, you'll be pulling the timing cover.

Nope - the DIC actually says "Low oil pressure - Stop engine" (or wording to that effect!). Your CEL will generally only come on for emissions related malfunctions.

You're quite welcome, glad it helped you out. I did it once before from the top (side of the road type fix!) and it was a horrible job (you just can't see anything, and human hands are NOT meant to contort like that!) - so when I had the time to do it on this one the right way, I had to film it.

So I’m not the only one who thought It’d be WAY easier to do that

I own an Impala SS too, and I'm with you on the cover.

Yup, still have it! I'm going to repaint it (only did some touch ups before, as well my paint skills are FAR better now) - then it'll probably go up for sale. Still only has 140K kms or so on it (about 80K miles). I have 9 cars, and I'm uhhhh... not getting any younger.

IF you have VVT, it'll look different. Otherwise - should be the same.

@@DrFiero what is vvt?

@@jaredvera7079 - Variable Valve Timing. If your timing cover looks like mine (not as shiny doesn't count!) then you DON'T have VVT. VVT covers have a big hump. Very noticeably different.

Be honest - it was SO long ago now, I don't recall if it set a code, or the DIC just said "low oil pressure - stop engine". If it had set one, it'd probably clear after a couple key cycles, then just be stuck as a history code - assuming you don't have a decent scan tool that can clear those.

Pray that you never need to do a crank position sensor. OP sensor is a cake walk by comparison. ;)

Thank you

Uhhh... in my head I still am?

A muffler! ;) If you meant the whole vehicle though... my somewhat daily driver '08 Sierra that I bought in '16 just before we moved. Been doing various 'things' to it the last year or so.

I wish that was the long crank solution! I’ve swapped out both cam and crank sensors as well. Still does it. It’s tough when it’s so random! I’ve had all my test gear out - can’t get it to do it. But… in a rush to get somewhere? Boom, does it. :( I want to get my pressure gauge on the rail, and have a timing light hook to a plug lead. Then just cycle it on/off like 100 times in a row to catch the failure. At least narrow it down to fuel or spark!

@@DrFiero yeah mine didn’t work as well and mine is very random the only thing I can think of is maybe a faulty coil because I just did a full tune up besides the coils or maybe a fuel filter and I’ve heard a weak fuel pump could also be the problem it’s weird because it will go through a whole day absolutely perfect and I’ll run to the gas station come back outside 2 minutes later try starting it and it will just crank and crank sometimes when it catches it’ll try and start but when it does it runs like total crap back fires then when I flip the key and try starting again it’ll crank right up and run beautifully it’s definitely a head scratcher because I have no warning lights I did have a check engine light on so I tested it and it popped up as a faulty oil pressure sensor and that’s what I replaced since then it went off by itself I replaced it anyways but still cranks without start randomly

@@Ericraymond26 - Throwing good money away on the coil aspect. The GM coils are notorious for being bullet proof. Not to mention you wouldn't have 8 simultaneous failures! :D

Having the fuel gauge read 1/4 tank and be empty is pretty common. You need to figure out if it's the gauge or the sender though. It's easier to test the gauge. Disconnect the 3 pin connector at the firewall, and stick a 100 ohm variable resistor across the pink and black wires on the car side plug. As you sweep it, the gauge SHOULD go empty to full. If it doesn't then the problem could simply be that the needle has moved on the shaft. You have to take the whole dash apart and recalibrate the gauge. If it sweeps properly, then the problem is with the sender (which the video was all about!).

@@DrFiero the thing is the gas tank is full and it reads at the quarter of the tank should I do the same thing u said

@@carlospineda7021 - Chances are the fuel sender is screwed then. But it's still worth checking the gauge itself to rule it out. Hopefully you know how many miles you can go on a full tank! Use up about 80-90% of it, then drop the tank. I can get one out in 15-20 minutes (practice makes perfect!).

@@DrFiero thank you I really appreciate your time, it’s my first project car I’m 21 so I’m a novice

That would be pretty simple to add! I would totally be doing a battery backup to keep the micro running then - or have someone write down the stats every few days! You could add an LCD and some simple lines of code - something like add a variable 'a', then if the pressure falls below 'x' you know the pump needs to run so increment 'a' and print the value to the display. Have to add some other math of course, otherwise the count would run away as it looped!

This was taken out of an 88. Is it original? Who knows after all these years. But every single one works off the same principle of a 0-90ohm varying resistance.

Figures - I did BOTH covers due to an oil leak, and never did a video thinking "who'd watch that?". :( Front one is insanely easy, just be VERY gentle with the plastic piping. Take the coils off as assemblies. Make sure to replace the gaskets AND the rubbers where the cover bolts go through. And really, the back one is almost as easy. Just had to wiggle it out from under the alternator. Do the front one start to finish, then you can lay over the engine without getting covered in oil.

That would probably be way too tight and you'd take a chance on stripping the threads. Thing with NPT is there's so much variability. I use one type of tape, you use another, I put 2 wraps, you put 3 (you get the idea). Plus manufacturing tolerances in making the male & female threads! There's just no need to tighten anything (that uses NPT threads) beyond a certain point. If it's not leaking it's doing its job - done. Just get the tab lined up so you can remove the connector next time, and don't loosen it after you've tightened it (it mangles the tape and might leak).

Still won’t make the resistance change though. So your gauge will always read a hair high.

Hmmmm! Don't give me ideas - I already have a 42" display out there hooked to a Mac Mini. ;)

Well, make sure the fault isn't in the connector. It could just be a cheap/bad sensor as well. I replaced this one again after shooting this as every time it got really hot (long drive) it would start randomly dropping to 0 PSI and tripping the dash warning.

@@DrFiero thanks man

That was 10 years ago I gave it to David (below)! Certainly didn't take any further video of it. I would start by disconnecting everything off the coil to make sure a wire (or the switch) isn't shorted to ground. See if you get spark.

I've got a what?! Oh yeah... in the trans... right... ;)