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DrFiero
Канада
Добавлен 7 ноя 2006
2008 Sierra front end refresh - ball joint boots and more.
Replacing several parts during my front end refresh. These included:
Energy Suspension 9.13126G (2 upper, 2 lower boots in black)
Mevotech MK6541 lower ball joint (steel control arm ONLY!!)
Moog EV800084 inner tie rod
The not shown sway bar end links: www.amazon.ca/dp/B01KGDY2W2
Those cool yellow hooks - www.amazon.ca/dp/B08KDB94QF
NONE of the items listed above or shown are sponsored!
I make ZERO from my videos, or anything shown.
Energy Suspension 9.13126G (2 upper, 2 lower boots in black)
Mevotech MK6541 lower ball joint (steel control arm ONLY!!)
Moog EV800084 inner tie rod
The not shown sway bar end links: www.amazon.ca/dp/B01KGDY2W2
Those cool yellow hooks - www.amazon.ca/dp/B08KDB94QF
NONE of the items listed above or shown are sponsored!
I make ZERO from my videos, or anything shown.
Просмотров: 263
Видео
Muffler 2.1
Просмотров 108Год назад
So, while it sounded really cool at idle... uhhh... I don't want to be doing jail time. What you can hear here is actually pretty tame! I went around the block and actually got on it a bit. Oh. My. Gawd. :O So, in an effort to remain free, I've got a 3" stainless FlowFX muffler coming in a couple days. I've got a pair of them in my Impala SS and they sound really nice. #notsponsored Remember th...
Muffler 2.0
Просмотров 77Год назад
Ok, yeah yeah, the last one was open headers. Like, even the O2 sensors weren't in there! Ha ha. This is the headers, cross over, and about 3ft of pipe going back. All stainless 3.0" pipes. Then just stuffing the straight through (as in see right through it!) muffler onto the end of the pipe. I was SHOCKED at how much quieter it makes it. And this is no tailpipe or anything.
Muffler beta 1.0
Просмотров 16Год назад
In the process of trying to create the most stealthy sleeper in town. Roll up on me... they'll never know what hit 'em!
2010/11 GMC Terrain 3.0 V6 A/C Compressor teardown (and how an AC compressor works in general).
Просмотров 8512 года назад
This compressor (which BTW was used only on those 2 years, and only on the V6!) had packed it in before I bought this project vehicle. Fixing the A/C was also the last thing on my to-do list before I could turn it into a daily driver. I had tested the TXV and found it bad, so replaced it. THEN figured out that the compressor was bad as well! Oh well. So, why just throw it away, when you can taa...
"New" Ammco Brake Lathe
Просмотров 392 года назад
Picked this up a month or two ago in a pretty bad state. Stripped it down, cleaned up the gear box, replaced a few parts, straightened out the table, repainted it all. Works pretty much like new now!
08-14 Sierra/Silverado (GMT900) Cam Position Sensor Re&Re
Просмотров 26 тыс.2 года назад
Changing the cam position sensor in a 2008 GMC Sierra 5.3 4WD. Applies to 2007.5 - 2014 with NON VVT. This is an LH6, YMMV. 2 wheel drives would/could be similar (?).
GM/Fiero Fuel level sender testing
Просмотров 9853 года назад
Showing the fuel sender assy with pump on the bench. Testing the resistance sweep, and a possible fix for the typical running out of gas at 1/4 tank.
Andon light to “see” air pressure
Просмотров 2133 года назад
An idea that popped into my head (scary right?!) and I built it.
Princess Auto 24" power sweeper transmission repair
Просмотров 8293 года назад
Repair of a Princess Auto (Power Fist) 24” sweeper transmission. This is a clone of a number of other units that look identical under various names. During reassembly, I did notice what appeared to be a film of locktite red between the brass gear and the half of the dog. Was buried in the grease and didn’t see it. In the video I said I was going to just order some pins - I got impatient and mad...
2008 (07-14) Sierra/Silverado - wiper transmission/linkage/motor removal & install.
Просмотров 16 тыс.4 года назад
WARNING! I Probably (ok, who are we kidding - I totally did!) went into way TOO much detail in the removal of this 2008 GMC Sierra wiper transmission - but what the heck. Some of the details were because I'd had trouble scouring the interwebs trying to find that very information at some point in time. So take away what you need and skip the rest. The part installed fits 2007-2014 Chevy, GMC, Ca...
2006 Impala SS oil pressure sensor swap
Просмотров 29 тыс.5 лет назад
If the title wasn't a clue - we'll be replacing the oil pressure sender/sensor and the oil screen, on a 5.3L V8. This particular car has very low mileage (140K km's), and it turned out the screen was perfect. But they aren't all. For the cost, get a new one anyhow! Showed the wiring of a new pigtail, and how the wire colours do NOT always line up! Always check your original connector, and compa...
Shop Build 4
Просмотров 215 лет назад
Part 4 of the shop build series. This is roughly 3 months work, condensed into under 3 minutes. The ceiling material is aluminum (or aluminium!) non vented soffit material (forgot to mention it in the video). There's more that's been done during, and after this, but you get the idea.
Shop Build 3
Просмотров 545 лет назад
Walls are going up, as well as part of the roof. We ran into a snap of bad weather (again!) so things came to a halt abruptly. Dropped to about -15, and had 90 km/h winds! It's supposed to perk up again tomorrow (nov 19th) so things should start up again.
2011 camaro SS tailpipe sound comparison
Просмотров 52110 лет назад
2011 camaro SS tailpipe sound comparison
10 - CNC Router, September 2012 update
Просмотров 28211 лет назад
10 - CNC Router, September 2012 update
Yea not even close on a 14 Silverado!
LUBE SENSOR FIRST! it has a very tight fitting O-ring hot used motor oil dribbled ontop of the sensor with a narrow funnel, only needs a tiny bit but feel free to dump an oil filters worth if it makes you feel better, i just used a little bit. twist more than pull to get it out, i used a long bent snot needle nose pliers, others have recommended a spark plug wrench, i used what i had on hand. put the new one in by hand after dipping it in hot used motor oil and quicker twisting action, but less twist so as not to bind up the seal and roll it/twist it in the holes sleeve and used alot more push force than twist. went in so easy i wasn't sure i had it seated fully as there is about a washers gap from the sensors body limit due to the retainer bolt flange mount. watched this video to figure out a way to get the computer to accept the new sensor with out going to a dealer for reprogramming calibration. some one said drive it for 40 miles the computer will self relearn. i've only gone about 30 miles so far so? this video was no help in that department.
Thanks I'm doing that today
Thanks
I used a drywall screw and a hammer to take it out came right out first try after it broke
video is ok but why use a bolt ,,i used a 90 degree pick like somewat a mouth pick ,, pulled ur out done ,, why a bolt ,,
Yeah, they don't come out that easy.... Anyone reading this, and thinking of changing their own, should be ready to deal with an extraction process that involves drilling the senor and using a 4-5" lag bolt screwed into the hole to extract. If that doesn't work, you're pulling the timing cover. So be prepared for a headache. Not a task for the average DIY'er.
Well, I remember Chevy PU kick plate tags saying, "For Economical Dependable Transportation" I owned at least 4 Vega platform cars, would still like to own one but am WELL acquainted of their deficits First in my book is the front substructure...have seen the 2300 equipt gain a negative camber due to motor mount sag. TRW made a sleeve kit that solved the Briggs & Stratton engine, Add a radiator sized to keep the heads from cracking internally, worked for me & dad. Personally I think GM would have had a winner with the iron duke Pontiac, 3.8 Buick AND a front end Strong enough for the SBC from the beginning
I'm interested in the voltage drop across the 90 Ohm resistor when the tank is full. I don't suppose you have ever measured it? Thanks. Good video by the way!
Sorry, no. You'd have to do some empirical testing there. The sender connector is at least fairly easy to get to. You could just jumper it with a 90 ohm resistor to simulate a full tank. Or, mortgage your house and just fill up! :D
I had a message that read "low oil pressure, turn off engine" on my 2007 monte carlo ss v8. I changed the oil pressure sensor on it and the message and the check engine light went away. I appreciate you for making this video. 👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼
Mannn i like to here that i got the same problem
hi bro...can u upload the driver pleace ? i cant found it :(
Here's the MFG's site: www.cdxhctech.com/html/edownloads/ Wait for the page to load then look for 'english' in the top right corner.
@@DrFiero I scoured the site from start to finish but couldn't find it =(... do you still have the file? can you upload please?
@@baratagator - I literally just now clicked the link I put above, and it took me RIGHT to the downloads page! YT has no place to put files.
@@DrFiero I'm sorry, I just now saw that despite being very similar, my MPG is different from yours, maybe older, that's why I couldn't find the driver.
I have a 2011 Silverado z71 LTZ 5.3 and my setup is nothing like this. I have a metal shield surrounding the wiring harness and it will not come out unless that pulley comes off.
There's a metal shield over this one as well - and I've had it in/out a few times with the crank pulley in place. Just for funsies I looked up the harness specifying your year etc - exactly the same part number!
Yup what this guy is showing is not like ours I just did a 2012 gmc 5.3 his was easy the ones we have have another wire harness going over the timing Chain cover up too another sensor and yes same part BUT DIFFERENT HARNESS THEIRS a 3rd bolt right under the main pulley I used a swivel head wratchet wrench and it worked for me thank God but the sensor ballooned in the block took me 3 dam hours to get that thing out and a ton of cuss words this always seems to help me 😂😂.. but yeah same part Different harness
@@eddietrujillo224 - do you have VVT on yours? If so it’s simply not the same engine and would then be a different job.
My 2011 LT 5.3 looks just like this, same thing.
Great
any recommendations on how to remove the sensor if it won’t come out easily?
I'll assume you've gained access to it, and got the bolt out - almost for sure you've got "dingy yellow build up" on the portion that extends through the cover. It makes it larger than the hole. So, you can TRY gently pulling on it while turning it around and around. Sometimes that will grind up the scum ring until it lets go. You can also grab some carb cleaner, and blast it down the gap, then pull and turn it a bunch, blast some more... repeat ad nauseam. Carb cleaner is mostly acetone and will dissolve nearly everything. Including your hands! So wear good (not latex) gloves. And don't breath the shit.
When the top breaks off, you'll have to drill a hole in the remaining part of the sensor and thread in a 5" lag bolt to use as leverage to pull out. Not for the faint of heart. Otherwise, you'll be pulling the timing cover.
Thank you😊
:)
Did your check engine light come on? Is that why you replaced it?
Nope - the DIC actually says "Low oil pressure - Stop engine" (or wording to that effect!). Your CEL will generally only come on for emissions related malfunctions.
Thank you very much! Finally a video on this exact truck and engine with an easy removal and install, very good work.
You're quite welcome, glad it helped you out. I did it once before from the top (side of the road type fix!) and it was a horrible job (you just can't see anything, and human hands are NOT meant to contort like that!) - so when I had the time to do it on this one the right way, I had to film it.
Appreciated the clear close-ups especially showing how the connector to the motor is released. .
For the life of me , why in the world wouldn't you remove the plastic cover from the top of the motor.
So I’m not the only one who thought It’d be WAY easier to do that
I own an Impala SS too, and I'm with you on the cover.
Still have the car? nice color i love mine!
Yup, still have it! I'm going to repaint it (only did some touch ups before, as well my paint skills are FAR better now) - then it'll probably go up for sale. Still only has 140K kms or so on it (about 80K miles). I have 9 cars, and I'm uhhhh... not getting any younger.
So is this the same for a 2014 gmc Yukon 5.3? This is the camshaft position sensor?
IF you have VVT, it'll look different. Otherwise - should be the same.
@@DrFiero what is vvt?
@@jaredvera7079 - Variable Valve Timing. If your timing cover looks like mine (not as shiny doesn't count!) then you DON'T have VVT. VVT covers have a big hump. Very noticeably different.
Hey great vid. My sons MC SS just threw a code showing to replace this . Did you get a code for this? And did it fix it? Thanks
Be honest - it was SO long ago now, I don't recall if it set a code, or the DIC just said "low oil pressure - stop engine". If it had set one, it'd probably clear after a couple key cycles, then just be stuck as a history code - assuming you don't have a decent scan tool that can clear those.
Awesome video! Was so glad this was on the top of the engine. When I measured resistance from pin to pin, the old sensor was about 20K ohms more than the new sensor on each one so maybe that fixed it. Guess we’ll see. Great job.
Pray that you never need to do a crank position sensor. OP sensor is a cake walk by comparison. ;)
I do some car repair on the side. And this was one of the most thorough repair guides I’ve seen
Thank you
Are you young enough to drive a truck that sounds like that. :)
Uhhh... in my head I still am?
What you got there?
A muffler! ;) If you meant the whole vehicle though... my somewhat daily driver '08 Sierra that I bought in '16 just before we moved. Been doing various 'things' to it the last year or so.
Just to be clear... there WILL BE the muff!!! I need to be able to drive this and not get arrested. ;) I was just shocked by how much a straight through muffler could dampen.
Muff me it's better
Hmm to Muff or not to Muff..... Electric dumps anyone....
Definitely helped me out I’ve done some research and my impala ss has a long crank before it’ll start I usually have to flip the key back then try again and it’ll fire up I’ve done extensive research and everyone says that this is what’s causing it. I just picked one up today gonna be putting it on in about a half hour or so hopefully that fixes the problem.
I wish that was the long crank solution! I’ve swapped out both cam and crank sensors as well. Still does it. It’s tough when it’s so random! I’ve had all my test gear out - can’t get it to do it. But… in a rush to get somewhere? Boom, does it. :( I want to get my pressure gauge on the rail, and have a timing light hook to a plug lead. Then just cycle it on/off like 100 times in a row to catch the failure. At least narrow it down to fuel or spark!
@@DrFiero yeah mine didn’t work as well and mine is very random the only thing I can think of is maybe a faulty coil because I just did a full tune up besides the coils or maybe a fuel filter and I’ve heard a weak fuel pump could also be the problem it’s weird because it will go through a whole day absolutely perfect and I’ll run to the gas station come back outside 2 minutes later try starting it and it will just crank and crank sometimes when it catches it’ll try and start but when it does it runs like total crap back fires then when I flip the key and try starting again it’ll crank right up and run beautifully it’s definitely a head scratcher because I have no warning lights I did have a check engine light on so I tested it and it popped up as a faulty oil pressure sensor and that’s what I replaced since then it went off by itself I replaced it anyways but still cranks without start randomly
@@Ericraymond26 - Throwing good money away on the coil aspect. The GM coils are notorious for being bullet proof. Not to mention you wouldn't have 8 simultaneous failures! :D
Doin this job this weekend thanks 👍
My gas gauge is stuck to like a little bit over a quart on my 87 fiero and some of my gauges read a little to high or to low idk what to do help
Having the fuel gauge read 1/4 tank and be empty is pretty common. You need to figure out if it's the gauge or the sender though. It's easier to test the gauge. Disconnect the 3 pin connector at the firewall, and stick a 100 ohm variable resistor across the pink and black wires on the car side plug. As you sweep it, the gauge SHOULD go empty to full. If it doesn't then the problem could simply be that the needle has moved on the shaft. You have to take the whole dash apart and recalibrate the gauge. If it sweeps properly, then the problem is with the sender (which the video was all about!).
@@DrFiero the thing is the gas tank is full and it reads at the quarter of the tank should I do the same thing u said
@@carlospineda7021 - Chances are the fuel sender is screwed then. But it's still worth checking the gauge itself to rule it out. Hopefully you know how many miles you can go on a full tank! Use up about 80-90% of it, then drop the tank. I can get one out in 15-20 minutes (practice makes perfect!).
@@DrFiero thank you I really appreciate your time, it’s my first project car I’m 21 so I’m a novice
Thank you for showing how simple this is to hook up. I'm trying to do something similar but with Cycle Counts.
That would be pretty simple to add! I would totally be doing a battery backup to keep the micro running then - or have someone write down the stats every few days! You could add an LCD and some simple lines of code - something like add a variable 'a', then if the pressure falls below 'x' you know the pump needs to run so increment 'a' and print the value to the display. Have to add some other math of course, otherwise the count would run away as it looped!
What Fiero year did this fuel sending unit come from? There were 3 different sending units made for the Fiero.
This was taken out of an 88. Is it original? Who knows after all these years. But every single one works off the same principle of a 0-90ohm varying resistance.
Very helpful thankyou 🙌🏽 if you have a video doing a valve cover on a ls4 v8 please put the link in the comments
Figures - I did BOTH covers due to an oil leak, and never did a video thinking "who'd watch that?". :( Front one is insanely easy, just be VERY gentle with the plastic piping. Take the coils off as assemblies. Make sure to replace the gaskets AND the rubbers where the cover bolts go through. And really, the back one is almost as easy. Just had to wiggle it out from under the alternator. Do the front one start to finish, then you can lay over the engine without getting covered in oil.
Thanks, I'm replacing one on my wife's SS today. Pretty good video and commentary👍
So u saying don't tighten it all the way down til you can't see the threads?
That would probably be way too tight and you'd take a chance on stripping the threads. Thing with NPT is there's so much variability. I use one type of tape, you use another, I put 2 wraps, you put 3 (you get the idea). Plus manufacturing tolerances in making the male & female threads! There's just no need to tighten anything (that uses NPT threads) beyond a certain point. If it's not leaking it's doing its job - done. Just get the tab lined up so you can remove the connector next time, and don't loosen it after you've tightened it (it mangles the tape and might leak).
It’s not flickering that bad
Now you should be able to hook that graphic multimeter to your big screen :)
Good Tech all Fiero owners should see, but can I offer a 2nd solution, just bend the float arm a bit.
Still won’t make the resistance change though. So your gauge will always read a hair high.
Now you can stick a big screen on the wall with the pressure displayed.
Hmmmm! Don't give me ideas - I already have a 42" display out there hooked to a Mac Mini. ;)
Cool
This solved my no DoD problems! thank you!
I changed this two time already what that means
Well, make sure the fault isn't in the connector. It could just be a cheap/bad sensor as well. I replaced this one again after shooting this as every time it got really hot (long drive) it would start randomly dropping to 0 PSI and tripping the dash warning.
@@DrFiero thanks man
Oh yeah, LEDs can flicker on video/movies.....
Mine wont start. I never see ignition on spark plug when i pull it out. Do you have any video replacing the ignition coil of na3500? Thanks in advance.
That was 10 years ago I gave it to David (below)! Certainly didn't take any further video of it. I would start by disconnecting everything off the coil to make sure a wire (or the switch) isn't shorted to ground. See if you get spark.
We downloaded this back in 1999-2000 and I remember picking up the phone and calling the number listed in the commercial and getting Tims answering machine. I left a message saying i'd offer him $150 and not a penny more, but he never called us back.
I'm sure anyone really cares, but... I'd bought a "good" strut from some wrecker online for my '01 Cadillac Seville STS. Popped the spring off, and found this. The wrecker wanted to see what I'd seen before they were going to refund me. They have an insanely expensive electronically actuated system. Last time I looked a single strut from GM was about $1200. I would normally never buy a used suspension part!
All that load and such a tiny pin.
I've got a what?! Oh yeah... in the trans... right... ;)