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Hi Ystein. Most likely the attachment concept of the R and non R models are very similar. In the long service video I have made you can see how the non R model panels and lamps are attached. Maybe that can give you some hint.

Some 34 minutes into this one. ruclips.net/video/x5swLFLUeuI/видео.html

Well, I didn't, not my cars nor my jobs. And the cars body is not destroyed as such, converting it back to a boxer 6 in the future is possible.

Hi Martin. First, I would think that a tint film does not adhere enough to the rear window. Most likely the camera bracket will fall down and bring quite a bit of film with it. The car in the video has its dark tint in the glass. I suggest that you try to carefully cut an opening in the tint film where the adhesive is, and maybe where the camera looks too, if the film is much darker than a factory dark tinted rear screen. Second. Trying to route the cable through brake light was not explored. I think it is advisable to try to get hold of an extra brake light from a scrapped car and experiment with that. Drilling and cutting into it might not come out well. Good luck!

Hi Muhammad. Not sure how to do a link. If you search in Google play store for "Car Scanner ELM OBD2", you will find a symbol that is a white engine on a blue back ground. Some 10 million down loads. A transmitter to put in the OBD2 connector you will find if you search for "ELM 327 WIFI" for instance.

Hi Kevin. Yes, apparently the PS2 uses the same type of communication as the C40. Wing mirror dimming still working with the digital mirror installed, slightly different though since the mirror sits in another car. Seems like the wing mirrors dims more often in the night now. If you do this modification, let us know what you think about the dimming performance.

@@hoojiesgarage1542 Much appreciated and thanks for the reply! Soon as I get this done I'll let you all know!

Sort of, got to borrow it for a week, but unfortunately it just became some 24 hours or so.

Ciao Alfista. Please write what ever question you have here, I can try to support. Is it about how get the "H-reg" up and running?

@@hoojiesgarage1542 Well we are about to have a look tomorrow at one for sale. And I have some questions related to that. Its a traditionell solution with restricted gearbox 1,2,R. 130 000 km, few owners and what I can judge from photos a decent maintained vehicle. I think its a fun and practical alternative among the A-traktors out there. Is it worth the H-reg upgrade? What more to look after apart from your review.

Corrosion, corrosion, corrosion, be ware. Floor, sills, trunk floor, body to frame attachment points, bumper beams. Has it been driven daily at 30 km/h and 5000 rpm or is that just a charade for the bi-annual inspection? If the engine has been at 5000 rpm most of its life, it might not survive so long. If high gear is accessible via some "trick", then your kid will be driving around with a non legal car. Are the wheels in the document the same as on the car? If not how do they get the car approved? I would recommend doing an "H-reg" electrical restriction conversion. A bit of work though. Material for some 600 Euro and inspection cost of some 400 Euro. If you can't do the work yourself, a mechanic could very well charge 1000 Euro for labor. Read the info text for this video. There is quite a bit of info there too and you can use the "documents" as a base for the documents you will have to do if doing a new restriction. Check with the inspection companies of how they currently interpret the rules. Is external blocking of gear 4 and 5 ok? Is it ok to just drill away the screw heads for the restriction box? Or do they require an extra "seal" with a number that even has to be in the document? (I would avoid such a company if possible.) Good luck!

@@hoojiesgarage1542hello! It was in a very good condition and also converted to H-reg. Drives with 4 gear gearbox in function. Regarding corrosion it is treated with corrosion protection so it is no corrosion problem. But no information about timing belt, watrepump and overall service oil, filter etc. So I plan to change the timing belt and do a normal service. Questions; type of motoroil? Oil to the gearbox etc - should that be changed in intervalls as well?

Hope that the H-reg is in the document of vehicle :-) Oils you can find here: www.mobil.com.se/sv-se/b2b-recommendation?query=api/v1/sv-SE/khws/equipment/FawEcWcl6/1/b2b Or check with Oljemagasinet if you prefer some different brand. Among my videos in my channel a timing belt change on the X90 is shown. Don't forget valve clearance too.

Hi. Sorry, no I do not. General specs for 8.8 grade steel screws are typically like this: M5, 5,5 Nm. M6, 9 Nm. M8, 23 Nm. If the threads are of aluminium and ingress less than 2 times the screw diameter, be careful, undertighten- and use thread lock liquid. Screws and torques is a deep science, but experience will compensate :-)

@@hoojiesgarage1542 thankyou so much. I've been around a while and watched a lot of material on torque specs and fasteners -it's clear you really know your stuff!

It was one quick thing completely improvised, or nothing. So I did what could with the gear that I happened to have with me.

Interesting trouble. If it is over a limited rev band one could suspect some sensor but that would set some error code and affect all cylinders I think. If you are sure that it is cylinder number 4 and only that one, I would get hold of a used coil and injector and try them out. There might be a certain vibration in that rev band that causes some intermittent electrical issue, maybe even in the cable harness?

Its definitely cyl 4, the eml used to come up and an obd reader told me random misfire cyl 4 but code hasnt come up in 20k miles, ive done all that coil packs, injectors, spark plugs

Hi. Except at a Honda dealer you mean? With a bit of luck one can find good used ones at bike "scrap yards". I have also seen used complete engines including transmission and rear wheel for some 100 - 150 Euro. From 150 to 300 Euro one can by new aftermarket systems from Gmax, Malossi and Silent Pro. Search the internet and you will find a bit of everything. The original part number is 18300-GGP-901 or 18300-GGP-D00.

Hi Mk. Please note that this video was published April first. On my car I did however update it with a mid silencer delete, replaced it with a straight pipe under the floor, just like on the Megane RS. The sound did however not change much, not at all like a flat crank AJP V8 for instance.

Thank you, 👍 for this exhaust upgrade, what was the cost approx?

A piece of straight exhaust pipe and a good pair of clamps, some 20 - 30 Euro I would say.

Do I need the mid silencer for the sound or simply the other stuff you mentioned? I like your videos a lot! This one is crazy and wonderful!​@@hoojiesgarage1542

Hi Bob. Most likely different ECU:s for different Toyotas are programmed differently. As you can see in the video there was no issue for the engine to run on three cylinders only. On newer Toyotas this might have changed. I would think that you need an OBD2 error code reader to to find out what could be the cause of the problem.

Thanks for your comments. Yes I could probably have shortened the time of the trip by going a bit slower, but not a lot. However, it was an interesting and educative trip, learning by doing. The car also behaved well on snow, predictable and easy to handle, maybe the footage looks more scary than it was. I like the Leaf for commuting, it is an excellent daily driver. Long trips, no thanks, then I take another car. But as shown in the video, one can at least "move" a Leaf from one area to the other, if needed.

Hi. Something that could be skipped? I think not, this is what it takes I would say. If you have a sense for attention to detail and are a bit careful with that long coax cable, this can be done at home just like we did. Good luck.

@@hoojiesgarage1542 thank you so much for your response!

Hi. Are there "A-traktors" that are legal to drive with AM-license in Norway? In Sweden there are plenty, and I think they exist in Finland too. But what about Norway? In Germany I have never seen one but there 16 year old kids with A1-license can drive an "Ellenator" (a "three"-wheeled and 15 kW restricted car).

@@hoojiesgarage1542 im not sure just buying a tesla for a teenager seems like a very norweigan thing to do

And Swedish :-) corsamicke.se/aktuellt/varldens-forsta-tesla-atraktor-byggde-vi-i-paarp/

The bike has been running flawlessly ever since the update was made. And this is RUclips, not an official video from Honda or Polini :-)

Key locked in under the seat? That's a tricky one. Life without a spare key is risky. You need to break or destroy something to get in there. I would try to peel off the "saddle skin" by trying to get the small clamps at the inner edge to come loose. If you succeed with that, then try cutting off the foam in a way so that you can glue it back later. When you find the upper area of the metal "striker", grind that away. Like this you should be able to get the seat to unfold. And then you have quite a bit of work to rebuild it. Good luck!

Hi Joseph. If you mean that little cogged steel plate that stops the variator at the end of the crankshaft from rotating, I made it my self. Draw the outline of the cogs of the variator on a piece of paper card board first, then copy it over to a 4 or 5 mm thick steel plate. It takes a bit of cutting and grinding but in the end that tool was very handy to have. Regarding the torque, I do not know. Was there a spec on a paper in the kit? I think not and if I'm not mistaken, I tightened it to a torque that I felt was good/reasonable based on my experience. If you have not worked on a lot with things like this, try calling the nearest Honda workshop. Or, measure the diameter and pitch of the threads and try to find a torque recommendation for something similar. Or, undertighten it somewhat but apply thread lock liquid on the threads. If the nut would start to come loose, I would think that the variator would separate and you would loose speed.

@@hoojiesgarage1542 Yes,, have had mopeds and have tightened the nuts with a nut driver, thought maybe you should still tighten with torque, I have a nut driver so I will use it and at the same time use loctite, so it will probably be fine, thanks for the answer

You must have a different battery size. The author has 40 kwh, you obviously have 60 kwh version?

Hi Joseph. If the dimensions are the same then top speed should remain the same too. How a non original drive belt will wear and age is not easy to know.

Hi Esa. Fair comment, oils are always good to drain while being warm and as short time after driving as possible. Still I would say that it is way better to service, compared to not to service at all, unless screwing up completely and getting sand into the gearbox for instance :-) On my Audi A2 I replaced the transmission about every second year / 60 000 km. After 540 000 km the gearbox was still silent and shifted better than some new cars do.

@@hoojiesgarage1542 yeah, you are 100% right but, what i meant was: fillplug to gearbox first because you have to be sure that you get it open BEFORE you drain old oil. Seen couple that had wrong size tools and rounded bolt. Then you are screwed😁

​@hoojiesgarage1542 HI I have the sam model KIA RiO can you tell me which specification of motor oil use Shell 5w 30 and spec.is?? Thanks

Eco-mode, yes. Heating on 16 deg C. Did not feel cold.

Hi Viktor. The kit from Polini I bought second hand. The previous owner said that the speed increase was almost not noticeable but I still wanted to give it a try. As I went along with the installation I noted that the spring for the rear discs appeared virgin. I think this is the reason why the first owner did not notice much of a speed improvement. If the rear spring is not replaced, the new variator will not manage to pull the rear discs apart to reach the needed gear ratio. The front diameter of the turn that the belt makes needs to be as big as possible, and the rear diameter needs to be as small as possible, then the best change in gear ratio is achieved.

@@hoojiesgarage1542 thank you for your answer. I see. Its just such a hassle to remove the parts and screws are pretty stuck, was thinking about avoiding it, but I am gonna have to go for it.

Hi Aden. The service intervals you note above are fine, engine oil intervals are even better than needed but that can of course vary depending on oil quality and drive cycle. Power steering fluid I did change partly every second year, I used a lawn mower vacuum oil service "pump" to suck up as much as possible and then I refilled with VAG power steering fluid. What I missed was to replace the crank case ventilation oil separator (every 60 000 km) at rear end of the engine. It is also wise to clear up the crank case ventilation tubes at the same time.

At the rear area of the "helmet bin", under the seat, there is a plastic lid. Poke that lid open and you will se the "VIN"-number on the frame.