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Great video but u dont show how to wire the. Locking device or the push buttom

Latch after lever?

There is a more recent version of the 4040 video you should link to

nice

I’m a foreman for PCL

I have a mortise lock with the indicator lock and unlock . The spring broke inside . I need a picture matrix of the inside of the mortise lock can you help me?

Cool history. Thanks!

Why is the key not coming out?

Should use OSI and not Latex based Caulking

Don’t forget to apply Hager for best results!

So the Red screw is always installed on the "cylinder" side of the body correct?

𝓅𝓇𝑜𝓂𝑜𝓈𝓂

With keypad m800

This helped me decide what type of lock I needed, thank you!

Kindly show what happens when the CAM is depressed (in order to release the latch) where the CAM flips over on its side once released from the latch. This is a high probability when releasing the CAM. Make sure the lockbody is lying flat and body is stable, so as to hold the body in place from moving around while preforming the handing. Honestly...I was taken back a bit on this design, with the possibility of lock jamming should the CAM separate from the latchbolt during normal operation. The first thing that happened when pressing on the CAM release from the latch, was the CAM flipped on its side. Now you need to flip it over, and reattach the latch and lock in place.

I have so many problems with these Corbin ML-2000 mortise locks: 1. When they first came out, the latch would wear and would get trapped behind the cover plate. I deal with this problem to this day on thousands of doors that I oversee. 2. That latch tailpiece will pop off. (Inside the lock, causing it to bind up.) 3. You must carry straight cam AND clover cam mortise cylinders. And contractors put the wrong one and close the door. 4. Spindles break all the time I recommend Sargent. Corbins quality went downhill very fast. Corbin also has too many keying systems. Poor design. Don’t even get me started on the Exit devices.