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I like the bench testing methods, much less annoying than attempting a fix then putting it back on just to discover it is still leaking!

Hi mate did this work in the end?

Flailing hands and camera leaping around - please correct!

open up the slats on the inner wing ? the original rad was bolted to the engine to stop engine movement snapping the rad outlets, have you enough flex in your system for a body-mounted rad ? excellent progress young man

Some sort of rubber bushes on the rad brackets what do you think 😊

Bang on cal😊

Grazie al tuo video ho avuto il coraggio di fare lo stesso lavoro sulla mia golf. Ti ringrazio. È andato tutto bene.❤

1:58 No, not ok. Carb 3 butterfly is adjusted with idle screw. To begin with - we should have number 3 butterfly closed and all other opened slightly and then we can begin syncing. Imagine number 4 being opened far less than number 3 - then your idle screw adjuster would not even make contact with the throttle bracket. The correct way on this bike is to make sure number 3 is opened just a little bit and number 1,2 and 4 opened slighlty more. This would be perfect starting point. Then - you sync number 4 to number 3. Next step - adjust number 1 with number 2. The last part is sycing PAIR of 1&2 with PAIR of 3&4. If it's done differently - your readings would jump all over the place. Cheers!

Always better when it bends to the left 😂

I'm try this on a 98

can you not mount the bobbin to the upper side of the subframe, then drop it under using a "U" shaped bracket lying on it's side ?

Brilliant cal😊

Hows it bro i habe a 95 cbr f3 not getting spark an had no ignition would you have a clue what i should try

Stirling effort. Well done.

I used a mini gaiter on top, was a pain making the rod go in the correct places without knocking... with the gearstick mounted more centrally you may have more difficulty routing the exhaust past.

looks good the weak link in the system is that knuckle joint, they used to love seizing up. boil up some engine oil + leave it dipped in over the weekend

Great work cal well done

I ended up putting my fuel filter on the rear subframe, the engine bay was starting to get crowded. There's a roll over valve connects to the breather at the top of the mini tank, I think I used the spi one but micra should also have one. Do you need to do emmisions stuff / install a carbon canister if so I think you'll need a 3rd breather to the front.

fckin 'ell look at those axle stands... oh, he's a biker, nowt the matter really then...

nissan tech here, those engines were indestructible, good choice...

Excellent cal

Great video...I have my own 2003 ASZ since 2008 and it's been through a lot but I still can't let it die!! Went over a speed bump a little too fast and grounded the engine. Possibly due to the fact (that I only noticed when someone pointed it out to me afterwards) that the car is slightly lowered on one side - so think I've had a broken spring all along. Sump pan replacement looks very straightforward (hopefully that's all that's required), thanks.

Well done cal brilliant work

First

I have same problem with my polo tdi.Diesel leaks in first start from tandem vacuum pump then it stops .My question is it dangerous to drive like that?

Could you do a close up of where exactly the adjustment screws are please? Thanks

Thanks, great video. Does this issue throw any DTC?

Cumpăr

I don't think you can get around fully disassembling the bank of carbs if the bike has seen storage with fuel in the carbs. Those little idle circuits gum up even a bit and the idle is ruined and you will even see some hanging/floating of revs when you rev it. Separate each carb from the bank, remove the parts in the float bowl (needles, jets), remove the CV boots and slide, anything rubber, then soak the carb body in one of those gallon paint type cans of carb cleaner with the little metal cleaning basket in it. It says on can how long to soak it on the can (40minutes?). The cleaner will eat anything rubber or plastic, along with fuel residue. Reassemble and set everything to stock, maybe an 1/8 turn richer idle, then it will idle great.

Hey have you a part num please for the starter please

Hi, I had the same issue on my F4. Everything went well until the setting of the pilot screws. I have the same pilot screw adjustment tool as you have. No matter what I tried i found it impossible to get access and make any adjustment to carb 3. The setting for the F4 was even more complicated than the F3, i.e. set to highest RMP the turn pilot screw to drop 50 rpm, turn out pilot screw 3/4 turns. I gave up in the end and set all to standard 3 turns. Will probably have another try when my blood pressure returns to normal. Great series of videos. Cheers.

Was yours leaking oil or diesel?

My cbr 600 shuts off at idle at every red light while at normal running temperature. I changed the spark plug and new oil but same problem. Any suggestion?

Please do a series. I have a Bora 1.9 pd130 and the videos are a great help. Thanks

Hows it looking now and did you use primer or just thr enamel sprsy dojng this soon myself less work the better 😂

This looks great - I'm doing a very similar job at the moment. Could you tell me what products you used for degreasing, top coat and clear coat? Did you use rattle cans or a compressor? Thank you!

Thanks for this. Got the same Bora, colour as well.

Can i contact you about my pd130 having trouble with it

Thanks for doing this video Cally. I replaced the cam on my engine a few months ago and didn't replace the gasket, so now have to go back and tidy that up. I know which gasket set to get. Cheers.

Hi Can bad tandem pump cause bad engine start?

My bike has some “bogging” issues any gear after 3d and any rpm after 6k it just falls on its face. Power is smooth as long as you’re under 3d gear, and under 60mph. Thinking it’s maybe there fuel pump relay? The previous own jumped it/bypassed it. Any idea ?

Where did you get the seals from please?

Excellent cal

My cbr600 fx idle is awful, bike only donr 7k, fully stripped carbs n cleaned, then rebalanced using carb tune, still awful!

If you have the no start issue because of diesel, there is a short video here somwhere, explaining to cover the exhaust one or two cranks the unpulg the exhaust and ur diesel engine should start, hope it works to get yall running and how or to a shop. It worked for me it help bleeding out the air or something

Hey bro my F4i 2002 , i rode to work fine i stalled and boom it wont crank over. It cranks but wont fire up. So the lights on dash work but when i switch the killswitch to on position no sound to scoliod or f1 on dash. Do u think its the scoliod ?? It’s currently stuck at work😭

Did you figure out the leaks?

Great video man I appreciate it

Thanks pal, I'm trying to get my 96 going again. I've got no lights on the dash when I turn the key. But my blinkers work. No lights though... you think it could be the ignition switch?

I have a '96 F3, that needs a really good overhaul, so watching this series with interest..👌🏻