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The coolant is absolutely conductive, it is similar to automotive coolant and is primarily water. I am not sure if there is a non conductive coolant out there other than thicker oils which are used for less common fully submerged builds. If the water block ever leaks, it will be a bad day for me lol.

@@sloreo8278 ahah so hope it will never happen 🙏

No worries! The putty being used is just a normal putty, not paste though, not and adhesive. Putty is thicker and has a longer service life than many pastes so it should last for a long time without any pump out issues. The block is just held on by the case cover. I cut the hole to be the size of the water chamber, not the cold plate. This way the water chamber fits through while the cold plate is pressed on and held in place by the lower case cover. I have some better picture on my LinusTechTips forum post here linustechtips.com/topic/1546110-water-cooling-a-scar-16-409013980hx-laptop/?do=findComment&comment=16290402 the last two pictures on the first page should help clarify.

To expand on that, it is because of how I use the cold plate to mount it that you HAVE to get a water block that has a flat cold plate. Many CPU blocks have a raised cold plate and will not work without seriously deforming the case cover.

All spare Asus parts Ive gotten have been from a-accessories.com

Im more than happy to answer any questions for making it but am not open to commission because of the cost and risk of it. My full build cost just shy of $1000 and I can't offer any kind of support for if anything were to ever leak and damage someone's laptop.

Thank you!

You can underclock the CPU on most if not all laptops. If you mean undervolting, that is possible on the 13980hx and the 12th gen hx CPU, but is not possible for the non hx chips as far as I know. You can unlock it by hacking the BIOS on 10 & 11th gen CPU. The GPU can be overclocked on all laptops, again, as far as I know, but the wattage and voltage are hardware limited.

Thankfully all that was needed was sanding down the top of the cold plate to have it not be such a tight fit with the lower case cover. The issue was that the gab between the case cover and heatsink (on the inside) is about 3mm while the Iceman cold plate was 4.3mm. Before sanding it down the case cover couldn't seat fully and flexed a lot.

I thought that you had to drill something also. Maybe I will test that barrow block because I am not so good to craft things ​@sloreo8278

I feel you on the cost.. I made the mistake of not adding things up and getting most things over the span of a month. Didn't realize how out of hand it had gotten until someone asked to commission it.

Ye. If you check out my other videos I show hooking it up with dry break quick connects and compare the air cooling to the water cooling. Obvs it is heavier now, but I take it with me to work every day just about, without the radiator though.

​@@sloreo8278what do I think about XMG laptops that comes with water cooler radiator? Are they as efficient as ur laptop?

I think the same thing all the time whenever I’m running the laptop on air cooling instead of water. They’re still taking it with me to work pretty regularly. Believe the radiator at home. I look at the temps. I’m like “oh crap, they’re so so high right now!… wait a second”.

This isnt intended to use the vapor. The heat is going to the heatsink and then into the cold plate mounted directly to it. The liquid doesnt really need to condense and expand unless it is running on air cooling. It treats the heatsink as an IHS on a desktop CPU in a way. You could absolutely put the cold plate somewhere else on it but then you’re dealing with more mods to the laptop’s case and potentially more points of failure depending on how you run it.

It will work on any laptop that has a traditionally mounted heatsink, like your slim 14. The only ones I know of that wouldn't work are the Dell G series which have the motherboard inverted. The only thing Im not sure of on ones other than mine would be the gap between the case cover and the heatsink. If it is too tight you might need to grind the cold plate some to not flex the bottom case cover too much, as I needed to do with the AMD block Im using on my most recent video.

There isn't any clearance with an inverted mobo sadly, unless you want a hole in the middle of your keyboard. I actually sold my Dell G15 a few years ago specifically to get a standard layout to water cool it.

@@sloreo8278 yea, guess am done for :/ thankfully switching to liquid metal did gave me a bit of advantage, but i cant reach my max clock speeds. Funny enough i tried putting my laptop near AC and my laptop ran at max 80-85 degrees Celsius and ran at max performance 🤣🤣i was hitting PL2 limit all the time on my CPU, thats 25 extra watts 👌👌

This is not possible with the Dell G15 sadly. The Dell mounts the motherboard upside down so that the heat sink is actually between the motherboard and the keyboard. There is not space to do anything like this or like my other build on my MSI. That was actually the reason that I sold my Dell and got my GP 66 a few years ago, I wanted to water cool it and it wasn’t physically possible.

The T30s are able to be Daisy chained so I just have them all run together.

Sponsored by * imagination *

iirc it is 120mm x 80mm x 16mm. The one I used doesn't have dimensions listed on the product page for some reason but is close to the others they have for the AMD SP5 socket.

Thank you!

Most newer laptops shouldn't be an issue but the suppliers will vary. For mine, I have gotten two from www.a-accessories.com/ and they have been flawless each time.

Yep! The connectors are called 'quick disconnects' or 'dry break fittings'. These ones are made by Koolance but there are plenty out there. They have a spring loaded plunger on either fitting that is pushed into place when disconnected to block liquid from coming out.

The asus brick is honestly a tank. The only game I have that consistently puts up 250-270w on the GPU is Metro Exodus and it sustained that through a whole play through. The Dead Space Remake will pull 190-200w on the GPU and 70-80 CPU and that didnt have an issue either. The brick gets warm, but not noticeably more than stock. I have been getting tempted by Slim Q chargers recently to see how they do though.

It is! it pulls up to 270w. I did a shunt mod on it a while ago which is why the first dead space clip it caps at 130w and in the second it is 175w.

I am really interested in this laptop water cooler and i want to purchase it Is there any chance bro?

@@zayedhussain6609 Because of the cost Im very hesitant to do any commissions. I cant offer any kind of protection for someone else's laptop and just the parts I used alone cost around $8-900. Cheaper parts can be used but it won't work quite as well.

The fundamentals here would still apply, but it might not work quite as well. What is happening as you are cooling down the laptops own heat sink, similar to an integrated heat sink on a full-size desktop CPU. As long as you cool down the heat sink it will improve the performance a decent amount, but the proximity to the chips might make it not work quite as well. XMG claimed that the difference is negligible when they redesigned their in previous years Neo to only have the water pipe go around half of the heat sink.

@@sloreo8278 since both the CPU and GPU are spaced apart and not even on same horizontal level. I was thinking of using AIO water cooler only on the gpu heatsink since it has a little bigger square shaped area. Is it worth it? I couldn't find any ram cooler in that shape

@@Amit_Kattal It should work, but it depends how you mount it. The main reason I used a RAM block was just because the cold plate is flat and fit under the bottom case cover. Im trying out a direct die CPU block at the moment to see how they compare and it is looking good so far, but you want to find something with a flat cold plate/mounting hardware.

I see. I saw u mentioned that thermal pad solution with aio isn't good . Is it because of heat transfer is less or size/gap problem? I would like to try with thermal pad first to not have mess because of putty. Would that still work if mounting is no issue? And have similar performance?

The block is just mounted by the pressure of the bottom cover. The gap between the case and the heatsink is about 4mm and the cold plate is 4.2mm. Once it is fully installed it gives it a decent mounting pressure.

Thank you!

Thank you!

The connectors are made and sold by Koolance, absolutely phenomenal quick connects.

I did a commission build back in January, but because of the cost and my lack of ability to give any kind of warranty or protection if anything goes wrong, I’m very hesitant to do them.

The fans are powered by the variable PSU in the parts list under the description. I cut off the barrel connector and soldered in power for a PWM connector and a SATA connector for the fans and pump respectively.

@@sloreo8278 Ah thank you

@@sloreo8278 Also do you think you could improve performance even more using a cooling pad like the iets one?

@@rrrrrrrfffdfjhre The heart of this project is to run the laptop silently more than to cool it drastically more than stock, although it certainly does. With the laptop's own fans at 100%, the cooling is only improved by 1-2*, nothing substantial. The IETS might give it more kick, but at a certain point there is only so much head that the heatsink can dissipate. Realistically, this is a very inefficient way to cool the laptop as eventually the heatsink will be a bottleneck. By using the IETS you would more than likely hit that bottleneck for little gain while also going from nearly silent running to 60db of fan noise.

@@sloreo8278 That is very true. Do you have a discord server of some sort I could join?

Soldering what?

@@sloreo8278ruclips.net/video/um9Y009cK-U/видео.htmlsi=sWaFMw63tjV668Zh

@@sloreo8278 i think he's suggesting soldering the ram waterblock instead of using putty

@@kickskii That was what I thought too but wanted to be sure before explaining the wrong thing. But just incase, So, solder would have better thermal transfer and allow for slightly closer contact between the block and the heatsink compared to putty, but it would only be a degree or two better if that and would present a lot of other issues. First, it is dangerous. If you check my first water cooled laptop, I soldered a copper pipe to the heatsink of an MSI GP66, making an XMG/Tonfang clone. That requires getting the entire heatsink to 130*c, around the temp heat pipes will burst at. Second, this version is meant to be fully removable in just a few minutes and relatively easy for anyone to do. Going on a trip and not taking the radiator? If it was soldered, you would need a second heatsink just for this. Adding to the cost and difficulty Third, making it serviceable and presentable. If the cold plate was soldered, you would have two choices for taking it apart and repasting down the road: cut the bottom case wide open, to allow the hoses and block to not obstruct its removal (ruining the integrity of the case and opening it up to all sorts of dust and debris), or; needing to unseal the water block while it is inside the laptop, potentially dumping water all over the mother board. All three of these major issues, just for a degree or two difference and a much more inconvenient setup.

I cut the acrylic block on the sides to expose the cold plate like on the Alpha Cool. Im working on a video to compare the two and a third, much larger, block to see what Ill be using from now on!

@@sloreo8278 and I'm waiting for the results good luck and I hope treadripper cpu block worth the money as an upgrade

@@sloreo8278 I'm waiting for that video and I hope the threadripper waterblock upgrade the both time and money good luck

The cost got out of hand and was nearly $1000, but it can be done for cheaper. Timewise it is about a day of work just assembling the parts and cutting the laptop's bottom case cover. Realistically any water cooling kit from amazon or prebuild external radiator will work, but it might not preform as well. The only parts that need to be the same/similar are the RAM water block and, imo, the Koolance connectors because of their extremely high quality.

@@sloreo8278 Hi again my research over the internet to make good watercooling solution like ur's using a good pomp/reservoir combo cut the cost to 400 USD

To get the Barrow to work I needed to cut the sides off of the acrylic to have it basically be the same as the Alpha Cool. I have a full video Im working on (Lowkey wanted this to be a short but didn't know about the aspect ratio limit) and am going to try a server CPU water block to see if it gets any more cooling out of it. The block is so big it covers EVERY component on the heatsink, but, it is also the same height as the alpha cool so it wont make it stick out any more. Second to last post on my LTT thread shows it on my spare heatsink linustechtips.com/topic/1546110-water-cooling-a-scar-16-409013980hx-laptop/page/2/#comment-16365577

@@sloreo8278 Nice work! Personally before I consider swapping the block there are still some obvious elements that I can change such as rad and fan. My current fan and rad set up would give out to heat in about 10 minutes of Furmark. Which is good because then I know it's conducting a lot of heat, but still, I believe I could still squeeze around 5 degree with a better set up

@@sloreo8278 also, I might just sand down my heat sink to get a better contact before consider swapping

@@giangle2849 fans could help for sure. What radiator are you using? The big difference with the barrow block is that it has micro fins while the AC block doesn’t. The fins help give more surface area for the heat to transfer to the water and helping with heat transfer. At a certain point between this and the CPU water block I expect to run into the laptop heatsink itself being the bottleneck, but only time will tell on that.

@@sloreo8278 also, do you use discord? There are some stuff that I want to ask your opinions on :)

If I had a bigger printer able to do a cover in one part I would definitely prefer that approach to clean it up. I was not a fan of needing to do the cover in multiple parts and was having a hard time getting the intricate angles on the bottom cover of the Scar 16 just right. If it was a more plain rectangle without the stylized RGB bar it would have been much easier to go that route. One reason I was hesitant to go that route though, aside from the practicality, is the difference in strength of the printed material and the OEM case cover. I trust the cover to hold up for the life of the laptop where I partly expect to need to reprint parts eventually.

@@sloreo8278 You have a valid point. I forgot to take into account that the RGB's integrated with the cover, darn. I guess this approach really is the in between to keep the aesthetics and reliability.

They're always trying to make an appearance! They hate the mod though, no more hot exhaust to sit next to 🤣

@@sloreo8278 Höhöh :-)

Thank you! Im glad you took the time to check it out.

Just a variable 12v power supply from amazon. Cut the barrel jack off and soldered a PWM and SATA jumper on. Totally missed adding it to the parts list in the description. www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08BL55LMB/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

@@sloreo8278 Thanks. Amazing work btw. I'm going to do similar mod for my laptop but with 120mm setup instead, and fool around with M.2 water coolers since they're even slimmer in profile.

@@aj9156 I hope it goes well! Im trying a revision in a few days with a different water block that has some micro fins to see if it is any different, hoping it will improve by a few degrees. The slightly smaller SSD block should still be plenty to make a difference, but I did have concerns about how smooth they are when considering them.

I did a super short video on reddit about the shunt mod but dont want to get too in depth because of the risk of doing it. The two R005 resistors you need to replace are shown in the beginning of the video. www.reddit.com/r/GamingLaptops/comments/1b91n8o/shunt_modded_the_water_cooled_scar_16_for_a_20/?

Oh absolutely! The shunt mod was even more fun.

The power supply is a 12v variable psu from Amazon that has a dial to control power. The Phanteks T30s have a speed setting to cap the maximum fan speed so I can set them to stay silent while cranking up the pump or set them to full speed for benchmarks.

YOLO 😤

The parts list with links is in the description on this video of my second build ruclips.net/video/7rS71hm3_f4/видео.htmlsi=kSan_Rf_nLYp19xV . This first version just used a 'PC Water Cooling" kit off of Amazon, an EK 240mm Radiator, and Phanteks T30 fans. The power supply is a 12v variable power supply with the barrel jack cut off and PWM connectors soldered in its place. I really recommend the second method for safety, but it is much more bulky than the soldered pipes sadly.