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Great video, well done brother , Appreciate this greatly 💯💯💯

What grease is recommended ( by name ) for the internal connection electronics??

Thanks for your effort to help us.

Bary u sock

Just an FYI you can diagnose the 4wd functionality from the 4WD ECU pin outs. There is a write up online and if you follow it, it will take you right to the problem. Could be sensor, motor, etc. but highly recommend you figure it out from the 4WD ECU first.

Thanks. This is what I was looking for and now my 4wd is working. Great job explaining

THIS HELPED ME SO MUCH. THANK YOU!

I have a leak from the O ring seal the one on the Actuator , sequoia 2004 it's the same Actuator , but I can't find the part number of the O ring seal anywhere , any help on that or a solution I don't know about , I'm not a mechanic ?

Not sure if you're still reading these, but i have a quick question. I've got a 2003 Tundra. We bought it off a guy who told us it needed the rear actuator and that it was stuck in 4wd. I needed to use it immediately for work so I dropped the front driveshaft to be able to just use it in 2wd. Got what u thought was the right actuator, but it wasn't, I got the front one. Since it was on there I just left the new one on, and now a few months later I finally got the rear one and replaced it. Now I'm in 2wd, but when I hit the button it still flashes and flashes all the time. I can't really find this issue on the forums. So I guess my question is, do I need to reclock the rear actuator or is there likely something else in your opinion? I was able to move the shaft forward to get it in 2wd in the transfer case, and the front drive shaft is no longer trying to spin. But I really just don't know what to try at this point. I realize you're just doing this video to help others and doesn't mean you're an expert, but you know more about it than I do obviously, so any help would be much appreciated. Either way thanks for the video, I wish I would've known sooner that it was the same on Tacoma and tundras so I could've run up on this video sooner

Replaced front diff and rear actuators….still won’t go in 4lo. You can hear the front one working. When you put the rear actuator on like the way you do it in your video, how do you know it’s in the proper “timining” and in the proper shaft location? Any advice would be much appreciated

I got it, I can understand the workings of the diabolical engineers. Your explanation is a little hard to follow but I hung with it and I can see it in my head. I have an '07 having trouble going into 4 Low but now I have some knowledge. Now I have power. Thanks.

Assuming we put dialectic grease on the traces (contacts) before install and white lithium grease all the gears?

Also those 2 switches(that plugs go into) could be bad. Many have removed (27mm) sprayed with maf while pressing them in/out, also check continuity while they're removed. Either cleanup fixed; replaced new; also 1 guy removed the washer on the more inside switch and so that was his fix as it then sat lower. He then sanded down said washer and put back in. So it's still sat lower and of course a washer is needed to protect internals. I'm doing mine now(02 4runner and it was corroded too/bought car used recently)

Two years later from first viewing your video I am back to working on my Tacoma. Best video on the transfer actuator.

this video is gold, thanks!

Precio en dólares por favor

When you take the black cap off of the actuator, and let's say the rest of the actuator is still on the car, can you manually rotate that gear with your hand to go into 4 high or for low, effectively bypassing the motor if let's say your motor is dead? With that damage anything?

Love sifting through 20 minutes of rambling for 10 seconds of information

You're a life saver on that detail on what position to set the gear for the different gears. There's probably other videos but I don't want to keep digging while I'm laying under my truck lol

Best video I have seen for this. Had the blinking 4wd and your explanation of cleaning it and how to set it back in fixed the issue! Looked for weeks on the fix, and this solved right away! Huge help!

So nar

Damn dude, you were smokin' that course!

I did all of this shit on the side of a trail, 20 miles into the woods in the pouring rain laying in the mud, and it worked! You arguably saved my life bro. Thank you so much.

Thanks for the time and effort put into the video. I have a 2005 Tundra and I have replaced both actuators; but having trouble with this rear one. Just needed to see what position and direction of travel to set it all up and you video was great for that.

Thank you thank you thank you! There’s so much misinformation on this actuator, even from seasoned mechanics showing off their Snap On tools ohming out all six terminals and telling you to buy a new transfer case cause the actuators are spring loaded and the actuators ruined once removed……You made this soo simple! I can’t thank you enough.

If I simply removing the plastic cover and then put it back on then timing should be OK right? Worried about things dropping out of it! At this stage I simply want to inspect the spirals inside the cover.

Wow thanks for sharing this video I was able to set it up by moving the gear bit by bit. Till the light stopped blinking and the 4x4 and rear differential lock works flawlessly. Happy camper here. Dealership wanted $3400.00 to fix.......... crazy. Got a 2001 toyota 4runner Limited that works great now.

2 years later and still the best explanation out there ! Thank you for taking the time to make this !

Thank you for the answers! Was up under my truck and noticed the vacuum line was disconnected on mine. The line has dry rotted and cracked.

Same shit happened to me. Vacuum hose slipped off and inside filled up with water and mud. Nasty thing... thanks for a hint 😉

What year is this truck what engine

Very well explained, thank you

How do you take out the rod?

And if you're stuck in 4 lx4 you can pull that actuator off and push the fork in with your foot or a rubber hammer. I thought mine was stuck but you gotta go to neutral and chock the wheels. If it doesn't move wiggle the rear shaft and push the rod hard with bottom of your shoe. Takes some force

I orientated the actuator to what it's like on the truck. If she's in 2wd the fork inside your tcase is all the way forward. You can freely spin the front driveshaft. So the only place for the fork left to go is backwards out outwards so orientate your gear wheel to the right so when you go 4x4 high it will move the wheel one turn left and it moves the fork outwards from the tcase so it appears the outer one is on plastic first

Way confusing

So basically it's a take off and replace the whole actuator? Any differential fluid comes out and if so how to add fluid?

Dude, the dealer quoted me $4,200 for this repair and my local mechanic quoted me about $1,700. I replaced it myself in 30 min for the cost of a can of grease. 4WD went from flashing indicator of death to working perfectly. Thank you so much.

Couldn't you push the rod into the 2wd (I don't know im asking) then just install back on without cracking open the new gears

Don't forget to pay attention to the orings and if you have it off might as well just replace them for piece of mind cause they can get old worn out and cause issues too.

I believe that the OEM and most aftermarket rear actuators come set for 4H. But if you take/took your old one off and plan to attempt cleanup and retry old actuator, you can start in 2H for example. Read comment below from rcw3586 for how to use ohm meter to test whatever position you are in and want to have for reinstall, and make sure you ONLY have ONE pair of pins 3,4,5,6 with continuity at your chosen position. This video shows and describes how to line up the big-gear,etc with its splined shaft inserted in the no-contacts base piece, but it made more sense to me to try positions with the big-gear inserted into the motor+contacts+6-pin connector piece. Either way, it's a bit of a blind insertion attempt and I wonder how many teeth you could be "off", just a couple teeth difference makes a circumference difference approaching 1/2", which I think is a little more than the space/size of the "plastic portion" described in video 10:40 to 10:59, where the outermost sensor/finger wants to sit with no continuity so that in 2H there is NO continuity between pin4+6, but DOES have continuity between pin4+5. I'm fixating on 2H because I goofed and removed my original/flaky? actuator from a 2H situation and now I want to reinstall the original actuator which I un-timed by taking the big-gear,etc out.....re-timefor one last transition from 2H to 4H, so I can install a new actuator in the position of 4H like the OEM and most aftermarket new actuators come in. I sure don't want to take the new actuator apart any further than removing the small gear from the triangular access-plate area, to remove the new rod and re-use the unremovable rod (not taking transfer case apart!) Let us pray...

What does it tell me when my 4lo won’t engage at all but my 4wd high will engage sometimes to go into 4wd high and sometimes it won’t engage, just blinks 4 high, but I can hear like a fuel pump engaging sound when I hit the 4 high button on my 2000 toyota tundra sr5 v8 4.7 thanks!

Is the 4Runner the same as the Tacoma?

I have a 2009 Tacoma 4x4 sport. I have run into the issue of trying to engage my 4 hi and now the 4wd and 4 lo lights are continuously blinking and the 4hi or lo won't engage. I took apart the TC actuator and cleaned up the contacts and pins as best as possible. I reassembled, DID NOT reset the ECU, and the lights went away. Drove around the block and tried to cycle through 4hi an 4lo and the blinking lights came right back. Gonna trouble shoot some more tomorrow, but do you think it could be from not orienting the pins correctly or maybe just needed to reset the ECU? OR should I just replace the whole damn thing ?

Thank you for sharing really helped!!

First, thank you for making this informative & entertaining video! Although I now see yours is a Tacoma while mine is a tundra, the parts look the same. Second, I had zero intention of removing the actuator but simply wanted to pop the cover to inspect the insides. Unfortunately, 2 of 3 bolts twisted off immediately (WI truck), and as I was messing with those without the cover on, the plastic gear and such came free from the gear. I’m unable to remove the entire actuator because the gear is still holding the rod in the transfer case. The bolts holding the triangular lid to access the gear are about to twist off but the lid is in a precarious location. You said to tighten the bolts holding the actuator to the transfer case before placing the gear but then that triangular cover for the gear isn’t accessible, on the tundra, at least. Any thoughts?

Its Good información thanks will do my Toyota sequía its 2003 tink its the same

Thanks for this break down . I was truly not willing to deal with fixing it method. But I was curious of how it worked.

Just wanted to say thanks for this video. My actuator skipped timing on my Tundra and your explanation helped me put it back on timed correctly. Part is probably growing weak so I’ll likely replace at least the cap and plastic toothed wheel but this confirmed it for me. Thanks again!

Excellent video young man! I don't have a problem with mine but always want to know how these systems work. My vent tube was starting to split so I cut a little and reinstalled. Will keep an eye on it in the coming years. Thanks for making this video!