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I disagree ...Cancer is very real and will kill you ... i think he needs to cover his neck as well as any other exposed skin

That is a 3M PAPR. They make different versions. Some for welding, some for medical, some for manufacturing and automotive refinish. Personally, I feel grade D breathable air to be the safest. This is a variation of a charcoal filter, it’s powered on a belt via battery. One of many options available on the market.

@@RefinishAcademy Very nice BA ...I'm sure they're proud of it too, lol... thanks for the info ..... painting my Black 2002 Lightning in the home garage 1 piece at a time, Hood first and I'm clearing it today without issue ??? .....fingers crossed ....You cut in the bumper before the facia i think that's best policy

Russell sprayed this job in PPG Envirobase with a Tekna TE20 cap and 1.3 needle/nozzle. I personally like a 1.2 Entech Iwata for EHP in winter, 1.3 Sata 5500 O for base in summer. I spray mostly Sikkens now, Sata 1.3 5500 O, or Devilbiss DV1 1.3 Base. For me the key is the first coat. Always try to get smooth sealer, and a 100% closed first coat of base to lay they foundation of the job. These guns help me achieve that with no texture. Like Russ says in the video, nice wet coat to start.

Russ uses a TE-20 cap for base, and TE-10 for clear. This happened to be PPG Envirobase, and this combo works well. But it may change depending on the viscosity and opacity/pigment concentration of the toners. Also it depends on how fast or slow you like to use. Personally, I’m on roller skates in the booth 😂 so I like a 1.4 sata 5500 O for say Sikkens, and a 1.2 Entech iwata for EHP. Thanks for the comment!

@@RefinishAcademy I use ppg solvent(global or deltron) and 2021 clearcoat. I have Iwata w400 lv4 cap and lph400 lvx cap, 1.3 on both.

Global always had really pretty aluminums/metallics. It’s been a good 20 years since I sprayed that. The w400 I think definitely would be a good choice for that. 1:1 with DT or Global thinners. LVX if it’s hot helps because the droplet is a bit bigger/wetter.

It happens. Most of the time, toners are made to fall within a certain spec. Because this does happen. Oftentimes for particular raw materials and chemicals, there may be only one or two global manufacturers for that material. And if they’re out, and need to make an adjustment, lots of times the toner will become obsolete, and a new toner and new formulations will need to be generated. It’s a huge logistical undertaking. A heads up from the paint brand you’re using would be nice though lol.

@@RefinishAcademy very helpful. You guys came out of nowhere with a wealth of knowledge of things many things people won't admit happens. If you can get past the algorithms you should blow up huge on here.

@@RefinishAcademy I need to become a pigment farmer 🤠

Hey thank you for the compliment. We filmed this content and it sat in a hard drive for some time. Decided to publish it all to hopefully help people breaking into the industry. We need techs and they are hard to come by. We have over 55 years of experience, have worked for paint manufacturers, body shops and distributors on the east and west coasts. We’ve seen a thing or two, and thought we could put out info that would be useful. I’m glad you’re able to absorb something from the content. Share with someone you think it may help. Thank you!

Thanks for following along, and we appreciate the comment. Hanging onto our blend space is key for sure. Trying to be more active on our instagram and here of course. Hope you can pick up something here and there that can help you out. 🙌

The chemistry and principle still applies even in a booth. With heat, you notice this less because the temperature is elevated therefore time is less. However not everyone has heat in the booth, and this principle can be something to keep in mind to help keep production flowing. In all situations. Especially in the prep area, where it’s ambient air until we stick a heat lamp on it. Some shops don’t even have heat lamps, and this principle really gets noticed then.