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Yes, you can. As close to the center line is usually best, but you could use the side compartments if it fits

Thanks for the question. My answer assumes you are using ExpressLRS as your control link. I'm also assuming that it is built into the flight controller (like on a mobula 6). In betaflight you need to be on the 'receiver' tab. Make sure the receiver is set to SPI-RX and the receiver provider is set to CRSF (or EXPRESSLRS in betaflight 4.5+). Save and reboot. Go back to receiver tab, there will now be a place for you to enter your ELRS binding phrase, and there is also a new BIND button at the bottom right corner. If you use a binding phrase, just enter it and then save and reboot. Turn on your radio and it should bind automatically. If you don't use an ELRS bind phrase, it is a little different. Go the the ELRS lua script on your radio and scroll down to the bind option (on your radio). Then push the bind button on your radio and in betaflight at the same time. They should bind. Hope this helps you out.

Thank you. I'm happy it was helpful for you.

They are a lot of fun. I've recently switched to 1002 motors @ 23,000 kv and 45mm props (on 75mm ductless carbon frame). Way more power than 0802 motors I had been using. It is a great backyard ripper. Still love flying my mob7 too. Thanks for watching and leaving a comment. Happy whooping.

You're welcome. Glad you found it useful.

Hi. Thanks for watching the video and leaving a comment/question. I have two temperature controlled irons, and I typically keep them both at 750f. It really helps to have a larger chisel style tip on the iron, especially if you are using 12 gauge wire. Negative pads also always take more heat. I almost always do 3 steps: 1) heat pad and tin well (or simply reflow solder if already tinned). Then, #2 right away heat wire to fully tin (or simply reflow solder in wire if already tinned). Lastly, #3, and again right away, reheat pad and merge to melt both together. Flux is your friend with this too, and so are cross-locking tweezers. Hope this helps a bit. Eric

Glad you found it helpful.

Thanks

Thank you for the very kind comment. I am glad you found it useful. All the best to you.

Hi. I'm glad you found the video helpful. I can try to help with your questions about solar panels/18650s. A few years ago I recycled close to 5000 used laptop batteries by hand to extract the good 18650's from them. I used 1000's of individual cells to make 48v battery systems for the panels and other power packs. Its a lot of work! Since it is a bit off topic from the channel, send me an email; I should be able to give you some basic guidance.

Glad you found the video helpful. The wing was designed before '4-wire' receivers were common. Basically what you need to do is put the ELRS receiver in the far compartment and use one of the 3 wire plugs as the Power, Transmit, Receive. From the flight controller, just run power and the 2 UART connections through the 3-pin plug and out to the receiver and connect as normal (keep track which wire is transmit and which is receive). You then use another single wire to connect the ground from the ELRS receiver to the ground on the OTHER plug (or other nearby peripheral like the servo). The other 3-pin MUST be grounded out on the flight controller for this to work. Hope this helps.

@@blueskyfpv thanks a lot for your time! greetings from Argentina!

Thanks for the kind words, and I'm glad you're finding it helpful. I'm not sure about "how it happens on the sim", but the INav autolaunch system is an amazing feature. You don't need to throw the plane over your head like I do with this wing. I just feel more comfortable launching it that way. Many people use a side arm toss to keep hands away from the propeller. The autolaunch system just takes over and makes sure that the plane levels out to a controlled flight position and then climbs. Of course you can always launch in full manual mode which completely bypasses the flight controller and is essentially the same as flying with a receiver and servos only. I fly in manual mode a lot, but I'm not good enough to launch in it. I hope this helps out a bit.

No problem. Thanks for leaving the feedback, I'm glad it was helpful for you. Happy flying.

If you are having 2 separate 2s packs that you join with a parallel connector, then you'd balance them separately as individual 2s packs. If you want 1 pack that is 2s2p, it should end up balancing exactly the same as a single 2s pack. First, you make 2 'cells' that are 2p (join positive to positive and negative to negative), and then you solder them into a 2s pack (solder the positive end of 1 of the 2p cells to the negative of the other 2p cell.). You then just add balance connectors as if it is a 2s pack. Be sure to use cells that are designed for high amp draw, very few 18650 cells manage more than 25 amps continuous draw, some 21700 cells can manage 40-45 amps. Molicel and Samsung are among the best. Pulling high current from li-ion cells that are not designed for it is DANGEROUS (think exploding cells)! I hope that makes some sense.

Hi. If you are using a proper battery charger for lipo batteries, the charger will stop charging after the battery is full.

Hi, thanks for taking the time to ask a question. You can absolutely use this flight controller without a GPS, I have it on several quads without. GPS is only ever needed for automatic navigation modes/rescue modes. The FC will also work 100% perfectly without any video system. To fly LOS, a flight controller only needs to have a standard IMU (accelerometer/gyro), and all flight controllers have those. I have almost zero LOS experience with quads, but if you're just starting LOS, I'd suggest using an autolevel mode (angle or horizon) and looking into 'head free" or "headless" modes in Betaflight (if that is what you'll use). As you get comfortable, you can make a switch to full acro if you want. If you've never seen, QuadMovr (www.youtube.com/@quadmovr/videos) has wicked LOS skills and quads. Good luck, flying LOS freestyle is a top end challenge.

Thanks. Glad you found it helpful.

Thanks for the question. I have been using HQ 7037 and 7040 tri blades. The 7037's have been working well for me, good speed, handling and decent flight times (5 - 7 minutes hard flying with 2200 6s). You would get a bit more cruising time with bi blades, but lose a bit of thrust and grip in turns, but if you are mostly cruising and light freestyle they'd be just fine. I can't recommend any specific bi blades (I don't use them), but you could try HQ Durable 7x4.5x2 or Gemfan Flash 7042. Hope this helps a bit.

Hiya, thanks for the comment and question. You could use either the 9v or vbat. In fact, I swapped the Speedybee vtx for a Mamba 1W last week and made the exact change you're asking about. I used use the 9v pad. Many analog VTXs actually only use 5v internally and use a buck converter (step down converter) to manage higher input voltages. You get a bit more heat and power loss if it is converting 6s from vbat. vs. 9v. The 9v is intended for DJI, but works for anything else as a power source too. Hope this helps you out. Eric

@@blueskyfpv Thx. Your effort is highly appreciated🙏

Glad it helped you out, and thanks for letting me know.

Thanks for leaving the question. I don't own a Speedybee f405 wing flight controller, however, the two things I would try first are: 1) a different USB cable, because it is easy and then 2) Use the boot button to enter DFU mode, and then go to the flash page in the configurator and flash. For the Speedybee f405 wing, the boot button is on the small extension board where you plug in the USB cable. Simply hold the boot button down as you plug in the USB cable. If that doesn't work, I'm sorry, but you'll need to search a bit more online.

Thanks very much. Glad you found it helpful.

Hi Klaus. Thank you for the kind comments and watching/using my videos. Good luck with the wings and have fun flying them.

Thank you for the kind comment.

Very glad you found it interesting. I appreciate the kind feedback.

Glad that it was helpful. I appreciate the feedback..

I appreciate the feedback on the videos, and I'm glad they are clear. I was pretty nervous setting up my first quadcopter too. Looking back on it, it was a bit of a mess - but it flew and I learned a TON. If you are patient and take things slowly, you should have very few problems. Matek makes good quality gear, so you're ahead of the game there. Take a look at some of my other videos, and don't be shy to ask questions. I always try to help out as best I can. Happy flying.

Glad it was helpful! I appreciate the feedback.

Maybe a spot of conductive grease as well, eh ?

Yes, they are small neodymium magnets. I've used them like this a few times when I've needed a really quick source of power to test something or to demonstrate a concept (like this video). You still need to use a proper conductor between the batteries, the magnets just hold things in place. Without some better engineering to make sure nothing moves, I don't think it is a safe thing to do for any situation other sitting on a desk and not moving. But for quick, on the desk 3 - 4 volts/low amps, its helpful.

Hey Andrew, thanks for leaving the comment. I'm glad that the video was helpful for you. Good luck with the build you're doing.

Hi thanks for the comment and questions. Raspberry Pi are great little boards to work with, but they are much more general in purpose. The boards in this video are designed for one primary purpose - remote flight control. These boards are most commonly used on quadcopters and slightly different variations are used on rc airplanes (mostly it is pin layout). They have standard UART control, so it is possible to connect components to them (GPS, RC receivers, video transmitters, etc.) As you saw in the video, there are other connector types as well (I2C being one) as well as multiple voltages available for external components. The most commonly used opensource flight software for quadcopters is Betaflight. It is designed more for free flight and racing. If you are interested in more programmable flight (return to home, position hold, waypoint missions...) then INav is the firmware you'd be looking at. They are close cousins; they just focus on different flight styles. Betaflight is only designed for "XXcopters" (tri, quad, hexa, octo); however, INav is designed for both copters and fixed wing aircraft.

Glad it was helpful! I appreciate the feedback.

Thanks for watching and leaving a comment. I tried to translate German to English, but the translation wasn't very clear. I think your comment was that to understand this video, you need to watch the other videos too. I can't disagree with that. The videos were as a series so each video isn't always perfect as a solo video. Making the wing and the videos was a great learning experience for me - I've still got tons more to learn. Happy flying.

@@blueskyfpvYES..and sorry .. but..for example ..don't tell people about RTH_Options to prefer "at least" ..cause first ..from that height it's activated, you will climb or descend by the value you have set as RTH altitude..Take "FIXED" and IT goes straight to the RTHaltitude and : "don't climb before returning" otherwise you will initially fly a mostly pointless round that will not improve your battery charge..and the same goes for other explanations in the video.. so sorry .. don't worry

Thanks for the extra feedback and information. If I made mistakes, or there are better ways to do something, I appreciate learning about it.

You're welcome. Thanks for watching and taking the time to drop a comment.

Gotta love bad instructions ... glad you got it sorted out. How is the frame other than that?

@@blueskyfpv I think it’s good, but being a newbie, I’m not sure any weight should be put on that :) I’ve been thrown off a little by the need to flip my ESC. The stack came with a short FC connector, and a long one (in case you have to flip it). I’m not sure if I should route the fc/esc connecting wires between the FC and ESC , or under the whole stack. I’m sure this is pretty basic for everyone else, but for me, I’m not 100% sure and I’ve stopped the build :)

For routing the ESC/FC connector wire, it won't really matter if you go under or through the stack. You just want it out of the way of other wires/connectors and not stretched tight. See if one way interferes with where other wires need to go. You can use a bit of double sided tape to hold it down if you need to. Also, because you flipped the ESC, you will need to do a few changes on the MOTORS tab inside Betaflight to set the correct motor outputs.

Glad to hear the videos were helpful. Good luck with the quad.

Thanks for taking the time to watch and leave a comment. Glad you found it helpful.

Thanks for watching and your question. I typically set my iron to 750F and leave it there. If I'm doing heavier gauge wires/big pads, I'll swap to a larger chisel tip for more heat density. For small pads on FC I switch to a fine point tip on the iron for less heat density and a more precision. Having properly sized tips and solder for the pads is more important than a precise temperature. Just pay attention to the overall temperature of the FC, and take short breaks to let it cool down a bit if you need. Basically, when you touch the FC, it shouldn't feel hot. Warm is OK.

Thanks for the comment and the info on the socket cap screws. Hopefully the rest of the build is helpful. Take care.

Thank you for the comment and taking the time to watch. I hope that the videos help you out with your build. Don't hesitate to ask questions if you have any.

@@blueskyfpv Thank you very much! I would like to ask what types of batteries you have used and what batteries you recommend for maximum range and payload?

When you read my comment, keep in mind that the ARwing pro is like an airliner, not a fighter jet. It will never be an agile speedster, but it can carry a lot. For a flying wing like the ARwing Pro, you can use either a normal lipo battery designed for planes, or you can use a li-ion battery pack specifically designed for RC use. For more agility, keep the all-up weight to the recommended 1400g or less. If you want slow & steady & agility doesn't matter, you could probably go up to an all-up weight of 2 - 2.2kg. It may carry more, but you'd have to watch for lost efficiency. I use two sizes of lipo. Small: HRB 4s 3300 mAh matches recommended size and gives decent performance and 15-20 minutes of flight. Large: CNHL 4s 5000 mAh (38X50X145mm & 510grams). It is a TIGHT fit, but not over-weight. This gets about 35-40 minutes. Any decent brand lipo with a "C" rating of 40 or higher will be OK. Lithium ion packs made from high drain 18650 and 21700 size cells are also quite popular for long range. They weigh about 1/2 as much as a lipo, so you get double the capacity (and more) for the same weight. The 'and more' comes because you can very safely discharge li-ion batteries to 2.8v/cell. 2.5v is empty. A lipo needs to stop at about 3.5v, so you get much more useable capacity with the li-ion. However, li-ion packs can't deliver huge amperage like a lipo, so you are limited to more relaxed flying style. Which is why they are perfect for long range. The ARWing Pro can easily manage a 10,000 mAh li-ion pack (depending on shape). A number of companies make these now: Dogcom, Auline, Zohd, Ovonic, CNHL. I do not have these myself because I make my own, but the best are made using either Molicel, Sony or Panasonic cells. Molicel are by far the best high-drain li-ion cells available. Molicel INR21700-P45B (4500 mAh, 45a drain) or INR-18650-P28A (2800 mAh, 35a drain) - sadly they are not exactly free! As for range....how far can it go at 60 km/h on a 10,000 mAh battery? Way beyond FPV range for sure. I've never flown 'far', but but based on total distance I can fly, I'd guess 30 km+. Maybe check some of the forums for long range flyers to get more details. Hope this is helpful.

@@blueskyfpv Thank you, your expertise is very helpful. Would you please also specify or recommend an ELRS receiver?

I don't have 900 MHz ELRS, so I can't comment on it fairly. For 2.4 GHz ELRS, there are the two general types of receiver. One has the small 'cube' antenna, and the other uses a full 'normal' T-style antenna. At the same transmitter power, the range of 'cube' antennas is much less than the 'T" style. Depending on placement, a cube will still go very far (I've gone 2km+ with a cube with 95% Link Quality). T-antennas have been shown to reach 100+ km depending on setup. Of course that kind of distance is clearly BVLOS (Beyond Visual Line of Sight)...unless you're an elf scanning for orcs. This page: www.expresslrs.org/info/long-range/ shows what kind of range is possible - its quite incredible actually. As for brands, I have only used HappyModel and Foxeer. Both work well for me. However, any ELRS receiver from a reputable RC/FPV brand will be fine. In the ARwing Pro I have a HappyModel EP1, and in several of my 5"+ quads I use Foxeer 2.4GHz PA+LNA. In my micro/mini quads I use Happymodel EP2 cubes because they are cheap, tiny and easy to get. I have also used HappyModel ELRS PWM receivers and they work well if you aren't using a flight controller. Newer ELRS receiver models from many companies now include "PA" and "LNA" which is supposed to help with signal clarity. Cheers.

Thanks for watching and commenting. Everything is filmed; just doing the editing and posting.

Glad you found it useful, and thanks for your 'concise' comment! I like to explain a little too much sometimes, so it's nice to know I'm in a reasonable zone. Enjoy your day.

Hi. Thanks for watching and taking a moment to comment. I'm not sure this particular frame is what they are using in Ukraine, but quads of this style and size are used for sure. Its mostly 7" - 10" FPV freestyle quads being used to carry 'special packages': they have the lift and endurance. The 'camera drones' are mostly DJI, Yuneec, and Autel from what I have read.

No problem at all. Glad it was helpful. Thanks for taking the time to watch and leave a comment.

Yep. Coming on 30 years now.

Hi there. Thanks for watching and leaving a comment. I didn't do a good job on the title for part 3. It's called "How to Balance a Flying Wing on its CG (center of gravity)" Here is the video link: ruclips.net/video/1HtBBjKR4co/видео.html Hope it helps you out. Eric

I'm glad it was helpful. Thanks for watching and leaving a comment.

Thanks for taking the time to watch and leave a comment. The high amp draw was 100% because I had the prop on backwards (rookie mistake). I'm looking into folding props, so I appreciate your suggestions. Thanks.

The other advantage of folding props is faster and more efficient gliding between periods of powered flight. An auto rotating prop causes way more drag than you would think. I am hoping to be able to ridge soar my wing with the throttle off when I get better conditions this summer. Anyway I enjoy meeting and watching the flights of other AR Wing pilots... Good luck with all your future flights.