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The larger outer bearings are type: 6002-2RS The smaller inner bearings are type: 6001-2RS

When you plug into your car the airbag light goes off

@@RoostChucker Another thing that I wonder about is the 1994 miata had passenger side air bags as well, but a lot of those donor cars you have mentioned dont have passenger airbags. so it makes me wonder if you were to replace it with an older model's module if the passenger airbag would work as well. Did you have a 1994 miata in this video? or was it a 1993, Im mostly just curious.

@@Hazel-wj9fw I wouldn't try that, but I would put the odds on it that it would work if it plugs in and there are no codes or lights. Of course the only way to truly know would be to trigger the system while faking an actual deployment or you will get quite the mess . Of course if you did that, you'd have to reset the module which is pretty much a lost technology. You'd need two modules I suppose. My car was a 1991...

@@RoostChucker Honestly I think the best thing to do is just treat these cars like they have no air bags, the module fails all the time and its super hard to find a working one that isn't like 200+ dollars. Plus you can send them in to get repaired to certain people but its always a mixed bag. Sometimes the damage done by the leaking capacitor is just too much.... All you can do is just drive it as such. I just don't daily mine, drive defensively. etc... there are far worse cars to drive in. still safer than a motorcycle.

Pretty sure that's the old school set up with no rotation

Ricky Stator is what I used. The stock stator can run either a fan or headlight but not both at the same time.

Also I considered using the FEs stator. If you go that route you get absolute ton of power but you need to swap out the cover as well. Pretty sure it’s doable but check.

Will that work?

I wouldn't suggest that for two reason. Once you break the seal it would be tricky to seal it back up again. It would also be difficult to both remove and repack grease in there. It's not impossible, I just don't think its a good long term fix.

@RoostChucker All right, thanks for the reply

Performance-wise the FX is superior to the FE in just about every way. There are people who prefer the softer hit of an FE, but for every one of those there are 10 others looking for modifications to improve the performance. The FX is getting all you can out of 350 cc's right off the factory floor. There are some things you can do to an FX to squeeze that remaining 2% of performance out of it, but unlike the FE, there isn't 20-30% more of the power corked up in there just waiting for a thousand dollars worth of mods to set it free. If one is looking to be legit on the street... Unless you live in California, it is far easier, more reliable and less expensive to put street legal gear on an FX than it is to uncork the performance on an Fe. Keep in mind that the dual sport conversion I did to my FX was excessive. You could do all that and more for about half of the cost I put into my build. I wanted to mine to look like it came from the factory like that.

Completely agree. Looks great. I’m surprised not a lot of people have gone this route. But yeah I haven’t actually even ridden an FE but from what I’ve heard people say it’s pretty lackluster out of the gate. I just wonder how often the valves would need to be adjusted/over all maintenance if I’d be putting a ton of road miles on it since it’s kind of designed more for small trail rides. Idk! Thanks for the inspiration!

@@John45693 Riding hundreds of miles on the freeway at sustained speeds of 55+ mph is not the healthiest choice for any high compression motor geared for the trail. You want a bike that can cruise at high way speed and do so well below the red line if you are going to do that kind of riding. Elite dirt bikes like Husky's (motocross motors or not) are not really all that great for piling on road miles unless they are low speed surface streets. My FX see's the occasional short sprint down 65 mph state highways, but it super rare. I built my FX into a street legal dual sport because I don't like having to haul it places when I can just ride to the trail. In Idaho you can connect single track and tour between towns for days on end. When you get to a town you want to be able to ride on the street. I also ride in California quite a bit. Dirt bikes on the street are very conspicuous. My bike was intended to look as much like an Fe350s as possible to avoid getting hassled by police... Which happens quite a bit in the elite single track areas through out the California Sierra's.

@@RoostChucker yeah good point. That sounds super fun though… town to town on single track. We have similar stuff like that here in Michigan but it’s mostly rutted out 2 tracks that have been ravaged by UTV’s. My CR650L is great for road stuff but is so heavy on the trail it’s almost not even fun. Only thing I’d want to do with the fx that might be pushing the limits would maybe be short “light” adventuring, maybe a run into the u.p sometimes. But yeah, I guess I would have to be careful not to red line it pinned in 6th gear for miles on end.

When it comes to the brake swap... You need to be picky about the brake pads you buy. One of the new pads I installed at the time separated from the backing plate.

hi, i also got these noises now, what is your expertise after all this years, did you get any real problems with that?

@@alexanderalex6527 I couldn't find any obvious issues on inspection. No issues, so all I can do is ignore it.

Did it?

I don't have a safe space to work on this anymore, but its not magic if you want to go for it. This is a proven technique, but its only practical if one can make the process efficient. I have run my lawn mower off plastic using a simpler method but it wasn't very practical or efficient. I feel pretty confident that I could make gasoline-ish type products if I ever had to in a pinch. Plastic is just highly refined petroleum ice cubes. You boil it in the absence of oxygen and the vapors will condense as liquid petroleum products as they move up the stack. It's how refineries work only they start with crude oil. I also find it very interesting because there are so many different kinds of plastic. Petroleum molecules make up chains, the longer the chains the heavier the product. Plastic is refined to a particular tolerance so in theory some plastics could be better suited to creating a particular petroleum product. Some type may be great for fuel with longer changes and others maybe more optimal for gasoline or other products that condense further up the stack in shorter chains. That's the fascinating part for me. There could be some Yogurt cup thats super efficient at creating aviation fuel or a detergent bottle that's ideal for Diesel. Milk jugs for example, seem to be the plastic of choice for RUclips gasoline.

I don't know but the chances that its unique just to the 1996 Miata is pretty slim. There are likely a dozen or so other car models out there that have the same unit. Junk yards are filled with cars from the 90's still. Go onto forum.miata.net and do a search, if you can't find an answer create an account and post the question. There are people on there that will know. You aren't the first to have this problem.

Just fyi that module IS NOT this one, and it is not located easily like this one is. This video is good for a 94 1.8 and is the same module as a Ford Escort; the one in 95-97 1.8 is its own unit and is up against the firewall and requires a full front dashboard removal to access around the HVAC unit. Sucks to do.

One day I would really like to build one of these out of purpose built and properly sourced components. That's the really attractive thing to me, this isn't magic. It's a legitimate process with the only real drawback being you aren't making petroleum products for less than you could purchase them for. I suppose you could add quality or lack there of as a factor as well, but it sure is interesting.

You need to get the bike sprung for your weight or you won't have any fun trail riding. Fairly inexpensive. I used TrailTech springs. They have a spring calculator on their site. racetech.com/ProductSearch/12/Kawasaki/KLR650/2008

@@RoostChucker i have a new 22, do you think same is needed? Haven't looked into whether the gen 3 is in need. Thank you for your insight!

@@TheSelf_8 It all depends on how much you weigh. Most Japanese bikes are sprung for a 150 to 165 pound rider. The average American male weighs in at about 200. Use the spring calculator and input the bike and your weight and you can find out.

I believe the industry term is the "flare". That's not necessarily waste gas per se, but its difficult to capture natural gas. It's the remaining gas with the smallest petroleum molecule chains that are too small for the rig to condense. It's the gas that cannot easily be condensed into liquid without artificially manipulating the pressure (which would add complexity). It's also not hooked up, but there is a burner there sitting on the ledge that I was going to solder on to it. It's when I realized I didn't have any place I could safely run this rig. Although I am fairly confident I could make this contraption work, its hard to say what kind of petroleum liquid I would produce. I think gasoline would most likely be what I'd make, and its also one of the most dangerous liquids to handle. I live in an extreme wild fire risk area. Even the slightest mistake could light the surrounding hills on fire, so I retired for now. ALSO VERY IMPORTANT - -> You don't want your flare stack pointed down like the video. You want the flare to be the highest point on the rig to avoid any liquids from making it to the burner.

@@RoostChucker thank you makes sense. I'm in UK I'm thinking if an apocalypse happens how to make any type of fuel. Like it is cold here in the winter so I was thinking how to make this under ground to maintain heat n condense outside etc. Just thinking n learning. Great help thank u

IMHO that's the way it should be done. You replace the outer seal (9N4251) that is the actual problem allowing oil to leak into the brake drum, then replace the bearing and the race. Pack the bearing with grease and then install new Sure Seal units to keep the grease in the bearing from being washed out by the oil. For me I wouldn't have a big problem with lubrication because I side hill my tractor all the time and it would get oil in there on a regular basis but if you want that entire assembly to last long after you die, I like this Sure Seal method.

I'm not that kind of engineer but this is a first generation air bag system in every way. The sensors that trigger the system are elsewhere in the vehicle as far as I can tell. I don't remember seeing anything like that in the diagrams for the board inside the module. If you look hard enough, you can find the schematic for the module. It's out there on the internet I just lost track of it. Some people have been savvy enough to make repairs to the board itself. I'll add that the air bag deployed as designed last spring in a front end accident. I no longer own a Miata... but I have a ton of parts. If anybody needs something, send me a message, I may have it. Found that diagram - - > retrovoltage.com/2012/08/13/1991-mazda-miata-air-bag-diagnostic-computer-repair-cars/

@@RoostChucker lol. I’m almost certain if it had anything like that in that module, all the bags would be blown already. Some systems do have both external and integrated sensors. Sometimes back in the 90s companies would also throw in mechanical triggers.

If you go to YesterdaysTractor.com you will find replacement springs for $2.42 each. I never considered breaking the engine down that far and not replacing everything. They also have complete valve overhaul kits for the entire valve assembly for $100. Engine rebuild kits starting at around $200 depending on how far you want to go. I'll add that you can sometimes find these parts for a little (like really little) elsewhere, but Yesterdays Tractor is really easy to work with and parts for old tractors is all they sell. These guys know their stuff. I am not affiliated with them in anyway. They are just a good company.

You can get them off Amazon and lots of other places. Search for "Tisco SS92" or "Sure Seal SS92"

It did not hold up. I wouldn't call myself a heavy duty user but my property is steep. That means there is often a lot fluid up against the seal when I am on a side hill. Any little imperfection would allowed hydro fluid to sneak by and sure enough it did. Lasted a good 5 years though. I would suggest disassembling the axles and taking them to a tractor repair facility and have them swap out the real seals on the end. Have them change out 9N4251 (likely the same part number on a 2N) on both axles. If you do that you would probably get another 50 years out of it. I will say its not an overly difficult job to disassemble but changing the seal requires a real shop IMHO.

That what I wanted to know thank you.

Pyrolysis absolutely works but the process to pull it off is very tricky. Its hard to liquify plastic, capture the off gasses and then condense them back into usable fuels and oil. That part alone is hard, but lots of vids on the internet about people pulling it off. There are good videos of a guy who homesteads on a remote pacific island that collects washed up plastic trash and makes gasoline. Its works for sure, but there is also an efficiency problem. You could put more energy into the pyrolysis reactor than you would get out of the fuel it creates. Not a problem under optimal conditions with a rock solid design but less so for backyard enthusiasts. That said... if it ever came down to it, you could make fuel using a pyrolysis rig if you had to. I suppose point being, its more of a hobby than a sustainable lifestyle choice. If you are going to try this, I suggest you start small. The most difficult part will be keeping oxygen out of the boiling plastic.

@@RoostChucker Thanks.. The energy inefficiency would not be a problem IMO. It would be worth it to convert say wood to usable liquid fuel. That's a trade off I'd make all day long. You can also take waste gas from the production of the liquid fuel and feed it back into the heat source via lighting it through a hose which would help make it more efficient.

@@DivergentDroid One of the things I noticed in my research is that it appears easier to condense and bleed off gasoline than it is to capture heavier and longer petroleum molecule chains like diesel and fuel oil. Some of that has to do with how much heat you apply to the boiling plastic. Apparently you can adjust the temp of the boil to get just the right conditions to condense what ever it is you are after. Most amateurs don't have that kind of delicate control of the boil temp and what you get is gasoline and other products that have shorter petroleum molecule chains. I suppose the heat breaks down the longer chain molecules as they churn and then you get gasoline and natural gas at the top of the stack. You inadvertently refine the longer molecules like diesel into shorter molecules like gasoline. Not a bad problem to have IMHO. Overall, I think gasoline is the easiest to make. The opposite is not true though, if the crude oil (or plastic) does not already contain molecules with longer chains you won't be able to get those products out of your boil. I didn't know this but crude oil pumped out of the ground is graded based on this. Some crude is only good for lighter products and is therefore less valuable.

Another thing that occurred to me was that its probably best to keep the hydro fluid low, especially if you use the tractor on hills and inclines. My theory is that when you tilt the tractor side to side more fluid comes in contact with the seals. the lower the level , the less fluid the seal will see.

This is how it works in a nutshell. You heat plastic in a vessel that has has no oxygen it. Removing oxygen is key or else the plastic will burn. Once you have sufficient heat, the plastic begins to vaporize. In that vapor are chains of petroleum molecules. Long chains will condense first and this is where diesel and heavy oil comes from, and then as the chains get smaller you get your gasoline and at the end its pure natural gas which is usually burned off since unlike liquid condensation, collecting gas is tricky. This is essentially the same process used for refining crude oil. Only instead of boiling off a mass of milk jugs, they use crude oil pumped out of the ground. Pretty clever but in order to do this in a way that is economical you need to get pretty sophisticated. However, if you ever had to, you could make your own fuel from plastic by building a pyrolysis still like this.

Where did you get the part?

@@Hazel-wj9fw Junkyard. Not an easy find. Good luck.

Depends on the year - - > wiki.miata.net/tiki-index.php?page=Airbag+Blink+Codes If its a 90-93 it may be the clock spring in the steering wheel as well. That part is usually what goes bad first with air bags on most other non-Miata cars because it has springs and moving parts that wear out over time. The easiest thing to do is to use the list of cars at the end of the video, go to a pick and pull junk yard and grab a spare control module. it will only cost you a few bucks. Then simply unplug the unit under the dash and plug in the spare. If the blink codes clear your good to go. If they don't its very likely the clock spring (or the spare you pulled is also faulty). Replacing the clock spring is not overly difficult, but you do need to pull the steering wheel to get at it. How's the horn working? Sometimes a non functioning horn can indicate a problem with the clock spring. Some cars use the clock spring to ground out the horn, but I'm not entirely sure if that's the case on the Miata. However, if your horn is broken, that could indicate you need a clock spring instead. EDIT - > Lots of forum members seem to have chased blink codes all over the place and in the end it was the module despite the number of blinks indicating it was something else.

Yes, mine was difficult as well. Both have some kind of clip on the connector. If you find a spare in a wreck, that's a good time to figure out how to get the cables disconnected. I believe I cut mine out of the donor car and left the cables connected. Once its in your hand you can figure out what it takes to pull the connectors off the old one in your car.

Agreed. Cameras almost never do it justice.