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Yeah lol it’s kind of amazing :)

@@elgrievous thanks! Welcome to the channel …I love sharing stuff. Check out the blog too :)))

@@UndaLupus thanks ! Yeah I was trying to make videos that I knew that I had “time” to watch myself lol. Thank you so much for this feedback. It helps to know this is useful and the format works :)))

Try not to thin your paint. Only a tiny touch of white or bright color on the sharpest tipped brush. Use a very light touch to start and feather side to side, while dragging the bristles back.

@@tangibleday I almost had it today. Will try again tomorrow. I was so close. :(

@@darianbrowning1608 ​​⁠once it clicks, you own the skill for life :) keep going ! 🎉

@@simounobrien9096 oh lol yeah 👍

@@enochdarkk7871 yup pretty much

@@Trys0 about 30 mins :)

@@tangibleday thanks!

Glad it was helpful! 🎉

You can try it :). And it should work fine. Just be thoughtful about it and make sure you still retain control over the ability to add highlights and shadows with overlying paint.

You can do it!❤

I appreciate that! 🎉 you’re so welcome

I’m so happy you found this helpful!

I totally will check it out and thanks so much for the comment. It helps to know you find this useful :)

Thanks :)

Scibor miniatures :)

Yup it’s great stuff!!!

@@willjones1696 some were examples from my site tangibleday.com/ others canva or stock photos :)

@@CernnuOneDesign any kind of primer could work. But make sure it’s water based if you want an easy time applying it with a brush.

Awesome 🎉 thank you for the feedback ! I’m glad this was helpful for you :) 😊

@@pandavision2146 you;’re welcome! Glad you found this helpful :)

Welcome! Thanks for the support :)

@@sbh_tx nice ! I’m glad this helped :) thank you :)

Welcome!! :)

Glad I could help! :)

Faster is better :D🤷‍♂

@tangibleday whatever works for you. Maybe my gun is too small, my tip keeps clogging with a 1:1 primer and tamiya acrylic thinner

Awesome. You're welcome :D

I need to keep them short because editing is soooo slow ;) love the comment thanks :)

A black primer will not the same as a paint. Hobby Primers are designed to shrink as it dries to smooth out surface imperfections in a model. This makes them unreliable when mixing or thinning applications for blending or other advanced miniature painting techniques. Use black stallion paint for normal painting. Just use the black primer for undercoats to prepare the model for “regular” painting. Here’s a blog post I wrote with some more info. tangibleday.com/5-professional-miniature-priming-tips-for-best-results/

@@tangibleday Thanks for your answer and your blog :)

Hah yeah I know about black 4.0. It’s on the radar but I hear it’s got an extra texture that makes it less useful for miniature painting. Stick around! I may buy a bottle cuz now I’m curious 👀:)))

I learned that after I uploaded the video :D

Thanks! I did test GSW black stallion because it came in a kit. But I’ve heard amazing things about maxx darth. I’m still trying to do a few more how to videos first. Editing is slow :P

Agreed. I noted that in another video. But the difference with or without varnish is subtle and both test models got the same varnish treatment. Also it doesn’t matter either if the models are handled. If you don’t varnish, it defeats the purpose of using black 3.0 on gaming minis. Can’t really touch it, safely. Varnish is a must for practical reasons.

I’ve heard that too. But this works great for me the way I show you in the video :)

Probably depends a lot on the thickness of the primer and the patience of the painter. Just make sure it's not pooling too much on the model and you should be fine.

Hi! An often overlooked problem that may lead to the primer not sticking to your miniatures is the need to clean the model first. Miniatures often have a thin layer of oil or lubricant on them that repels primer or paint. Try washing your models/miniatures with warm soapy water, letting them dry completely, before priming them. This may solve the issue you're having! GL :D

@@tangibleday ah I was hoping to avoid having to wash my minis but it something that I'm gonna try at this point. Thank you for replying and the advice!

@@theyseemefishin a quick 5 second rinse would do it, and I totally get you. I hate washes the dishes too :)

Stay tuned…. There are more. These blacks happen to be the most common at the moment.

I gotta get my hands on it!

I Love Ak paints, they apply so nicely, even without watering them down. Only thing I dont like about this black paint though is that it has a bit of a grey tint on it. other then that i love it

Yes! I heard great things about Model Color.

Yup. Those are the paints most already have available/own and still in stock in many places. Will update. Thanks for the note!

I'll add to this that black 4.0 from Stuart Semple is also out now, though you can still buy 3.0

Yup I saw that. It’s not cheap :)

Ah good to know on tox for blk 3.0. I did varnish the paint, so maybe that keeps the aerosolizing of the pigment low. Also, another commenter said it works best if it’s airbrushed but I didn’t think that was necessary here. I will take a closer look at the other two blacks you suggested! Those aren’t well known to miniature painters but could be interesting to try! Thanks for the comment about pigment load (max vs high)… I’m learning quite a bit putting these tests together. :)

@@tangibleday I work as a material applications specialist within the coatings industry and we recently just started testing hobby products as a few companies have broken a few federal laws by shipping banned chemicals, chemicals that require specific labeling before sale, or have very deceptive marketing along with other things and I'm watching videos just to gauge. So feel free to ask any questions, I've been into scale modeling myself for almost 30 years now and do like talking to people within the hobby about this stuff. I would also avoid spraying black 3.0 as its micronized carbon black which is insanely carcinogenic and can cause a lot of health issues when inhaled unless you have proper PPE. Depends on the varnish, most artist ones are a removable layer for cleaning so what they are designed to do is yellow and flake off to protect against environmental contaminants, with some also having something UVLS which protects the paint from fading as quickly. Not all varnishes have thing. Automotive is one of the best for protection but can't stop a lot of things and a lot of the beloved hobby products like dullcote and model masters are actually in rustoleum's main line now too and for a much cheaper price. Golden is sort of known in this hobby as I've seen a few mini painters review it and most seem to love soflat, turner however is completely unknown to most people and is a complete sleeper it. Oh one small minor thing that doesn't matter as I know you guys mean something else by it, but coverage in my industry is a calculation of how much surface area a bottle can cover with a complete coat with no splotches or missing spots and has little to do with opacity. Covering power is the metric for opacity and its based off a public 4 grade scale and an internal 8 grade scale. This is only important to know if you start learning pigments or use professional paints as these are the terms they use, this also applies to house paint. Reflectivity would be sheen. Anywho good video. 👍

I gotta try the maxx darth!

+1 for game color. though I think their model color range is really good.

Not liking a particular brand because 1 particular color of this particular brand is slightly worse than it's competitors is not a healthy way to think

@@AfaroX8 it's not a particular color. It's every color I've used from them.

Note that this is old game color, while new game color is pretty darned matte

@@jorgemontero6384 yup I’m gonna check it out. The new GC stuff is kinda of new