Видео

I can measure mine If you like. but, here are the plans you can download. outerzone.co.uk/plan_details.asp?ID=11039

I can’t find any pics. But I did it pretty much like the real one. Except instead of the sticks side to side rotating the shaft , The shaft has an arm off it with a servo mounted above. It just has a very short linkage connecting the servo arm to the arm coming off the shaft.

You can see it from the bottom at the 3 min mark in the video

@@JimmyC_2112 have you flown it yet? would love to see video of her flying. thanks.

@@fredjohnson8377 not yet. This was a consignment build for a buddy. The plane it was modeled after belongs to a friend of his. He has sense sold the full scale plane due to health issues. The model is currently hanging in his hanger. I hope to see it fly soon.

thank you very much

Thank you

And by the way, thank you for being my 600th subscriber 👍

Lorenzo Accetta thank you

Ab Lockload 1950 @ Gmail.com

From what I've read in some forums, This kit is know for needing a lot of nose weight. some have placed the firewall a inch or two forward. But, Mine didn't need added nose weight. Probably because of the extra weight of the four stroke engine and the added weight of building up the cowl area using 2 layers of 1/16th instead of 1/8th. It has some challenging compound curves. The aluminium weighed very little. I'm sure the epoxy used to glue it all together was most of the weight. It looks like the 72 is an ounce heaver than the 62 I used. I wouldn't think that'd be a problem if you built a little lighter than I did. And I did put my receiver battery as far forward as I could. I also used the 1/6th size wheels. Some use the 1/8th. Personally choice on which you think looks better. I think you'd be fine with the slightly larger engine. If you decide to build one. Please let me see how it came out.

A few tips on this kit. Make sure you use epoxy on the rear of the fuselage. I've seen videos of guys that used CA and it comes apart on the first landing. It couldn't hurt to make the rudder a little bigger. I set mine up for the recommended throws and ended up setting the servo to 150%. Granted. that was the maiden flight. The linkage can be adjusted . I'd relieve the elevator just a little more than the plans say to give yourself a little more clearance, just in case you need it. My rudder comes just shy of hitting the elevator at full throw. I used wire for the rigging on the rear. But in hindsight. The elastic I used on the wings would have been just fine. And probably less time consuming. Also, I ended up replacing my wing rigging with the heavy/thicker elastic. Just looked better to me. And It doesn't flutter much from the prop. There is a fair amount on tension on them. Like all WW1 planes. A tail skid has very bad ground turning characteristics. My kit came with a tail wheel. I may end up using it. If so, I'd make a skid that come up to it , That may help hide it. If you want a round nose. A 1/2" round over bit works great. Also, follow the plans, not the instructions on the wing bolt mount. It was moved down for more strength. My plans showed the correct location. The amendment in the book was for the old drawing and caused me to have to redo it. I've seen videos of the wing coming off in flight of older ones.

dean thomas 1 second ago Thanks for the tips and advice. I really like how you rounded the nose and dollied the cowl in the form you made. That was slick and it does look better. I don't use CA much anymore. My glue of choice is Weldbond. I have used that glue for well over 20 years and even used it along with .010 pillow ticking to glue wing halves together. Good stuff.