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I have an 8k, I see about min 8:30 you have 14 watts in from the grid, do you have limiter sensors on the utility grid line in and is your power mod limit to home(net zero)? Also to you use a transfer switch for grid power or use grid line in on solark? Thanks, Frank

The only advantage to closed loop is better balancing because the inverter will hold the absorbing voltage till that’s done. The problem with this is higher voltage for an extended period of time is not conducive for battery life especially if the other batteries don’t need it. Open loop works fine if the batteries have a bms with a “active” balancer having sufficient balancing current for the cell size. Whether or not you run open or closed loop batteries, it’s best if they are equipped with active balancing to reduce the time at absorb voltage levels for ultimate battery longevity/cycles. Passive balancers can spend many hours trying to balance versus an active balancer can do in minutes.

I have a 2,000 propane tank. No problem in corona time

Magnets and bypassing the meter is the most effective 😂😂😂

I had fifteen solar panels installed on my roof about thirteen years ago. This was the worst financial mistake I’ve ever made. During the summer months I’m saving about thirteen dollars per month, last month I only saved eleven dollars. At that rate it would take two hundred years to break even. With that system you have you must have several hundred thousand dollars in it. How long would it take you to break even?

Dang your hand was dirty when you turned that thermostat up.

We went all mini split at our home (1600 sq ft doublewide). This was the best decision we made for energy consumption.

You turn your AC off at 9PM and let you house get to 80 degrees over night and it was over 100 during that day? I call BS on that statement unless you live in a passive rated house. My central Texas home is well insulated and if you turn off the AC at 9PM it will be 90 by morning. I keep the whole house at 76 degrees during the day and night. Also BS about a heatpump water heater. A 98% efficient gas water heater cost less than the heatpump water heater. I totally agree about Solar to make electricity. Free AC during the summer instead of the $450.00 per month for electricity that my neighbor pays.

One additional thing I found effective before doing anything is to get and install an Emporia monitor in my breaker box. Not hard but unnerving to those squeamish about live AC circuits. We download the data every couple of weeks and keep it in a Google Sheet so we can compare over time. We found our hot water heater was going out (using a lot more electricity than it had) and a couple of other things. Also allows you to know what each circuit really uses. They have smart plugs that will also monitor a particular 120v device. And you can check the use pretty much real time of your electricity. Anyway we used it to cut down our energy use first so we could do the 'big bang' stuff firest.

Good thing to consider in a blackout situation you don't need to power your fridge for 10 hours straight or even 6 hours straight . Most refrigerators/freezers will be able to keep your food cold even unplugged for a good 4 hours even 5 hours if you put them on the coldest setting if you can keep the door closed moistly. I would say you will only need to power your fridge for about 8 hours a day broken up into 2 4 hour intervals this will allow you to conserve energy as well as power other appliances when not powering your fridge.

The air conditioner if on auto won’t come on at night if set right .

Also, Insulate first, second change light bulbs to LED's. We changed out the hot water heater for a heat pump, dish washer for more efficient, and when we moved in we got a combo washer/dryer that uses condensation (a heat pump) instead of just mass heat for drying. Also, being from TX but now in TN, I replaced screens with solar screens and put some reflective film on windows that get direct sun. This year we installed solar and batteries. The idea of a small or 'zoned' minisplit system is a good idea. If we replace our heat pump, I want to get one designed for Canada, not for my region, because ours now runs half the winter as a resistive heater, that we MUST use grid for. In the summer we have enough solar to run everything including charging our EVs on solar for the most part. I am thinking of a solar only driven minisplit for the garage to take the edge off in the heat and the coldest times.

I need AC indeed lol! I have like 5 different AC's when including buildings. My solar is running AC if nothing else. Good video

Exterior shades over windows makes a big difference in heat gain inside the house. Much better than interior shades over windows.

I live about 35 minutes from Signature Solar up close to the Red River. Installed a solar system at first with 12.4kw panels, 2 8kw inverters & ended up with 12 EG4 batteries. Could run most of the time off grid except in bad Dec/Jan cold and cloudy days. Added 10 more panels to bump them to 16kw which helps a lot on overcast days. When my heat pump failed over a year ago I upgraded it to a Bosch Heat Pump. That thing is awesome. All easy variable speed on the compressor and air handler and very efficient.

Thanks Brian great info and helpful hints!

Good stuff. All of that is a drop in the bucket however when you plug in 2 near dead EVs with 66 kWh packs. I need to build a massive array.

47kWp, 180kWh, 7 tons inverter heat pumps.

So are you saying you rethread wires from breaker box in house to it Or you just don’t have to

Can you give a good advice or Direction for a refrigerator preferably full size

The one thing I'd say for anyone using solar + battery is that you want to split your array into thirds to maximize early morning and late afternoon generation over peak generation mid day. Having east and west tilted panels matters because it extends the hours that you're producing vs consuming which is more important than being able to produce massive power in the middle of the day.

UnpluggedTexan Here is my Idea Plan I ordered from a dealer a 8 X22ft cargo Trailer Solar plan choose are Aptos 400 watts Bifacial Inside setup for Off Grid EG4 6000XP With wire box This EG4 280 Amp indoor Battery 1 to Start with AC unit is a 7:11 SenVille 12k unit As for Heat in winter a Diesel Heater 8K unit 25 gallon tank to fill everyday the small 2.5 gallon unit it comes with Fridge is a 10.0 house unit Tv Microwave Induction plate And Honda EB2800I as backup if battery is too low oh the EG4 48v inverter to charge the Battery Thoughts

I have two of the 1 ton units that use direct PV in or regular 120 volt. They both work flawlessly!

where do I buy the critical loads panel?

Do you have to connect the ground rod to your house ground with buried bare copper wire or not? Will it create a grounding loop or will it be fine without connecting them?

If I paid someone to install this system, what would I be looking at? $65,000?

Could of bought more batteries

I looked into transfer switches and there are a lot of options. Is there one you would recommend?

With all the protectionist tariffs in place and more to come next year, Americans are forced to pay twice as much for this stuff. Why buy an EG4 rack when I can build an open loop bank from batteries off Amazon for half the price? Btw, next year that option will be gone thanks to new tariffs. You can already see solar merchants moving away from Chinese systems for the “American made” alternative you have to pay twice as much for. Tariffs suck.

Sun comes up bring solar power …..

SOK rack batteries have closed loop with Sol-Ark also only user serviceable if you have one of the cells go out inside the battery.

Weird thing with sol-ark and this grid tie (but not selling back) is that it still draws a little power from the grid to keep voltage and frequency synced. If you have dirty grid power your house power will still fluctuate along with the grid. Not sure how to turn that off.

I built my solar rack with 2 inch steel square tubing. 18 panels for about 500.00 dollars.

Pretty good! I’m an old electronics engineer with a little construction and wiring experience. So tired of uninformative videos from ignorant people. Your’s is very refreshing because you know what you are talking about and don’t waste time. Thanks! I am currently struggling with a ground mount in a high wind area with poor soil AND restrictive codes. It’s either Iron-ridge(with deep holes) or the ballast plastic ground mount you show. I’d need twice as many as you, but it may be a labor saver.

Market forces.. Which one causes the privatized Texas grid to be reliable?

Don't forget you can drill into rock and epoxy. Or. And I use these a lot. Concrete ballast blocks and curbs. These are often available from local concrete companies where they take waste concrete and pour into molds. Super cheap. And metal racking isn't much more expensive than other choices but it sure holds up better.

do you ground neutural bond in your ac disconnect but not in main panel? if you were ground neutral bond in main how would you do differently in your ac disconnect

Thx. Bro.VG video.

I had a 5.44 kw solar system installed 7 years ago for around 20k. My parents have had 2 quotes from 2 separate solar companies this week. First quote was 55k after tax credits and the second is 62k. I knew right away they are dealing with scammers because the 430 watt panels after rebates are $900 each. The run is short going from a shop roof down into the shop and the main box. Looks like I may be doing my first install soon. Thinking about the EG4 18000 kw and possibly some panels from Santan solar to save some cash. Any tips?

Bluetti might have decent equipment, but their customer service is terrible. The worst I have ever experienced. I can't recommend Bluetti based on their lack of customer service.

Horrible whiteboard use

good not agree more with the opening comments, like how much you can afford. that does not help anyone. great video, very helpful for me. thank you

Thanks for sharing. My experience with inverter and battery as you mentioned is the comm of the invertir and Lithium battery. I installed my system about 2007 and there's no many choice for inverter and the company that I choose used the Schneider xw5548 inverter. At that time my battery bank were AGM 125 A. About two years ago I changed to BCT 20K Lithium battery.. But I was unable to communicate very well with inverter.... So I may change in the near future for a new and Moré powerful invertir.

Yes propane generators give lower output with higher fuel usage then gasoline or diesel. Something doesn't sound right with three month wait for propane delivery when thet are required to deliver within 7 days of your call/order

USA Sol-Ark | UK SunSynk | EU Deye | India Nitrox - all the same but delivered for differ market :) Very good devices. Remember to protect it by DC MCCB.

Sunrun installed a defective roof on my house with what were nearly certainly undocumented workers. As it turned out there was extensive damage all over the roof. Two years later my roof is still damaged and leaking, and Sunrun refuses to repair it. I'm out $7800. Find some other company than Sunrun for sure. Do your homework and investigate online before deciding to pick a company

Good video. I went with a 100a Siemens three pole double throw transfer switch and have not regretted it a minute. I'm looking at upgrading to EG4 18kpv inverters and appreciate your information comparing it to the SolArk 15k. I already have 12 of the EG4 batteries so that's a factor too, as you also mentioned. I hope Signature Solar steps up their customer service. Current Connected does pretty well on that front. Anyway, thanks for the info and your experience!

Does the power company send you a check when you back feed the grid?

Thx u