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yeah hopefully "2Real" updates the police mod soon to fix the issues, still good fun 😀

I'm glad you enjoyed the race and it evoked fond memories.😃 I remember watching these on the TV but was never lucky enough to go watch them live

lol as i put in the description this was a first test drive so it takes a few corners to learn braking distance. Quote: "As with all my first test drives I have to learn the braking limit so I can be a bit of a bowling ball on the first lap, this isn't intentional so please don't judge my driving."

Thanks 👍 I'm still learning what i can do with the editing suite (Wondershare Filmora) as I'm a editing nooby so I have been playing around with different settings and overlays I've just recorded the McLaren M23 from 1973 and added a retro 70s filter, I will upload it at some point

Thanks 👍😁

thanks👍 did them all in the same session, after accidentally doing the P4 record I thought why not have a crack at the others. I dont expect any of them to last long lol, was just a bit of fun 😁

Thanks 👍 I think it was down to the gear ratio setup as it was SpeedBumps config. the gearing was really long as you can see by the way it starts really slow and builds up crazy speed in 2nd gear. it was if the car was trying to change gear under the stress but the ratio wouldnt let it. wasnt a audio anomaly

Yeah indeed, one of the drawback of time trialling though, you end up having to use janky setups, especially at high speed tracks where even 1000th's of a second matter.

Yeah I wasnt aware that damage was turned on in Time Trial as it doesnt use tyres or fuel. Found out the hard way 🤪

thanks for the tips 👍 I did close the brake ducts and remove all downforce, I tried lowering the car expecting it to go faster but it was slower so i reverted back to default. I will have to try adjusting the camber, toe and raising tyre pressure, also leveling out the car. Great advice as always 👍😀

Thanks I will take your advice on the gear ratios adjustment 👍 ive never know which way to adjust them to get the correct gearing. ive always made them longer expecting more final speed, maybe ive been making them too long🤔 Awesome lap btw, looked like the car was on rails, shame couldnt see your steering inputs to see if it was as smooth as it looked.😎 yes im the one on Neworders friends list 👍

thanks 👍 I felt really confident that race, everything flowed apart from the few errors, that were mainly caused by me trying to push for those extra few tenths. But...............as you will see in my next race, Confidence can only take you so far 🤔

@@SimRacingGrandad Very true, the problem then becomes your expectations are much higher and failures can destroy your confidence in a heartbeat. Being a realist becomes as vital as practice and yet more practice, as does accepting each result regardless of how good or bad they may be.. Don't beat yourself up over them. Remember what went wrong, why it went wrong and learn to adapt for the next race. ALL any of us can do...

so close but like you say all the little mistakes add up. feel really comfortable driving the Porsche, I got faster laps in me, so gonna nail it next time 🙄

thanks 🤣👍 Not tried the Merc. I did try the Nissan first but couldn't keep it in a straight line, didn't want to do another McLaren so tried the Porsche and loved it😁 Didn't think my lap time would have been so high on the leaderboard with my first drive. (obviously not time trial so time not logged) I will beat Shane McNish's time next race 😎

yeah your right, i tend to go flat out straight away and not give it a lap to come up to temp. I did try your ghost, it was like chasing a racehorse whilst riding a 3 legged donkey lol I picked Neworder as a ghost as it would put me back in the top 10 then i could work my way up ghost by ghost but it never materialized. I was just not on it that day and the more i messed up the harder i tried so it just snowballed until i could take no more!

@@SimRacingGrandad3 legged Donkey? ROFLMAO! Yeah it certainly looked like the "frustration monster" bit hard and you just couldn't shake the lil bugger off. Neworder is a mate of mine and pretty darned quick too. By sticking to someone closer to your own times, you'll be more able to keep them in sight and more able to judge where they're gaining or losing time to you. I think you're on the cusp of needing to upgrade more than ever, I've not watched your 2 most recent race vids (yet) but those I have watched seem to indicate you're losing it when the tyres start to overheat. You seem to be making more mid corner corrections as the races progress and also end up with more instances of power oversteer as well, though it's hard to tell if this is symptomatic or is the actual cause of your issues towards the end of the races. The end result could be the tyres getting too hot and grip falling off a cliff, causing more sliding of the rear and understeer at the front, which ands up in a feedback loop that just gets worse and worse. FWIW though I just posted on a wheel thread about direct drive wheel prices after someone asked why a lot of us don't recommend the Moza wheels more often.. "Cammus C5 bundle £299.00 Sale Price inc table clamp. Fanatec CSL DD 5nm bundle £335.99 or £361.16 with the table clamp. Moza R3 bundle ￡399.00 inc table clamp. Fanatec CSL DD 8nm bundle £419.98 or £445.14 with the table clamp. Moza R5 bundle ￡459.00 inc table clamp. THAT'S why... Regardless of which you go for the step up vs a G series wheel or even the T300RS will be pretty much the same. You'll wonder "WHY the HELL did I wait so damned long to do this???". You certainly won't be disappointed with ANY of them even the R3 bundle which is actually 3.9nm peak torque is nigh on twice the peak of the G series wheels." Any one of those options would probably help you out massively as you get a constant feedback for the grip, it makes smooth in and smooth out sweeping single motion cornering much easier as you have a weight to the wheel at all times. They'll take a lot of the guesswork out of racing and as a by-product massively improve your consistency and overall enjoyment. For instance my consistency was pretty bad on my G27, laptimes could vary by as much as 2-2.5seconds over the course of a race. The T300 with the conical brake mod reduced this to 1-1.5 seconds. The CSL DD with loadcell brake I've had races where the laptime spread has been just 0.3-0.4 seconds. steamuserimages-a.akamaihd.net/ugc/1863932264631841855/5C4732C8E1726BBE42C1D6165F5DB1D5F9E52A3F/?imw=5000&imh=5000&ima=fit&impolicy=Letterbox&imcolor=%23000000&letterbox=false Over even a short race distance such a tight consistency lap after lap can mean the difference between 5th place and 1st place, worst case scenario where the fastest lap was a one off and the rest closer to the slowest time? With the G27, I could be losing upto 15 seconds over an 8 lap race. In the race above I'd be fighting for 4th or 5th With the T300 plus brake mod, upto 9 seconds over an 8 lap race. In the race above I'd be fighting for 3rd. With the CSL DD and loadcell, just 2.1 seconds over an 8 lap race. I WAS fighting for 1st or 2nd. And that shows as lap 2 was a second off my fastest lap battling with Runkill for the lead. So if you're losing races by 10-15 seconds to the leaders right now then a decent FFB wheel and even a cheap loadcell brake set could have you winning instead. Certainly waaaay more often that right now. You'll also be much more confident riding the kerbs because you'll feel the kick from the initial contact and instantly react vs no sensation and reacting to the visual cues only, which often means you react too late to make a save. It's looking like you've been bitten by the petrol head bug the question now is this, Is it enough to justify saving up and then forking out serious money for such a wheel bundle and a cheap wheelstand? The only person that can answer that is you and your wallet vs life and of course "The Missus" (though if she moans about the price just open her wardrobe and point to the shoes and dresses lol). All joking aside. If you're only likely to spend 100's of hours playing over the next few years then it's probably a waste of money, if you're likely to spend 1000's of hours then it becomes more justifiable. I've used this cost divided by time used metric pretty consistently over the years, since I got my CSL DD and V3 pedals in late 2022 at a cost of £768 in total I've played over 1400 hours in various games. That works out at just £0.56 per hour played. It'll only fall as I spend more time playing... Next time you race the AI check what your laptimes are and add up all the gaps from your fastest race lap, that'll give you a better idea of what the overall gains could be..

​@@SRS13Rastus thanks again for all the info 👍 As far as time spent using the rig, Ive clocked up 180 hrs on automoblista 2 in the last 5 months so prob about 300ish hrs a year. I would hope the rig had a shelf life of longer than 5 years (Ive had my current wheel for 10yrs+ and its still all good)so i suppose i would get my moneys worth in use. I have been doing a bit of research into the Moza R3 bundle and watching a few you tube vids, it seems the viable option as it doesn't cost much more than the logitec and thrustmaster bundles. I noticed there is also a addon for the brake pedal to offer more resistance thats quite cheap. I also like the option to swap out the wheel by just changing the frame and not the complete wheel, yeah you have to keep unscrewing and refasten the new frame but a way cheaper option than buying a complete new wheel. only thing i have to decide on is the right foldable frame that wont flex too much with the DD force

thankyou 😁👍

Thanks, i tried to give the Ginetta a good send off 😁

ha ha yeah go for it, i can use your ghost next 👍

Thommo here - thats my ghost - mine was my second lap, my first clean one, on a default setup. Definitely not saying I'm the quickest or best, but more to give SRG a decent but achievable basic yardstick to fire at, and you are 100% right that he gets some corners WAAAAY better than I do and takes bundles out of me. The speed is there, but it almost feels like once SRG gets ahead on the delta by being smooth and slow-in-fast-out with good lines, he tries to eke out even more in some corners and gets ragged and too late-brakey, rather than continuing with the style that got him ahead in the first place. My only direct comment to SRG directly was to try and use 1st gear a lot less than he was, try rolling through in 2nd on a feathered throttle.

@@SimRacingGrandad 1:37.135 custom tune, Brake bias moved more rearward, 57/43, less front locking rear end will swing with heavy braking on corner entry, rotating the car faster. (less time off the power) Brake pressure upped to 94 allowing later braking. Tyre pressures up to 25.53 front and 26.83 rear , reducing heat build up and increasing cooling rate. Weight balance shifted rear as far rear as it'll go, better rear grip on the gas. 0 toe front and rear, again reduces heat build-up and aids heat dissipation. Increased negative camber on the fronts Reduced rear negative camber, spreads heat more evenly across the tyre Stiffer rear ARB, 35 instead of 27. Raised rear ride height making riding the kerbs easier and adds rear downforce. Reduced front and rear slow bump and slow rebound dampers from 12220 fr/r to 11280 slow and 11750 rebound fr/r for increased mid corner grip. Reduced steering lock to 22 degrees, smoother turning and seems to reduce snap oversteer. Increased final drive to 3.865, (Lowering gear ratios), now doesn't bog down on the exit of slow corners, giving better drive out of the hairpins and faster acceleration overall. Gets to 5th before T8 and tops out right before the braking point for T9. Reduced power and coast LSD ratios 1 notch, seems to be less savage through turns and when applying power on exit.

@@laughinggravyuk You raise a good point, trying 1st lap you have cold brakes into T1, 2 and 3 plus the tyres are at 50, I ended up running 2 laps before gunning it and the tyres were then in the 70-80 range and brakes were nice and warm. Think Grampy's biggest issue is no FFB with the wheel he's got and pedals with no real feeling underfoot. Makes hitting kerbs very risky and reliable brake/gas modulation seriously hard. But you're absolutely right though, a damned good performance in spite of the deficiencies in control hardware. I got a CSL DD and V3 pedals myself giving me the confidence to run over the kerbs and keep the car pointing where I want it plus, just touching them lightly can be felt as well and lets me avoid kerb induced spins. With the long throw gas pedal and stiffer spring enabling more precise and smoother modulation and the loadcell brake I can brake later and more reliably time after time (Mostly even I bin it from time to time) Like yourself I'm no real alien (I get beaten too often in races to count myself as one). I can just steer with the rear end at need after years of drifting like a BOSS, which gave me instinctive, cat like reaction times when it STARTS to go pear shaped! There's always someone faster out there... Like The NEMESIS 69, THAT dude is INSANELY fast! Think he could kick my but driving a garden shed! Only ever beaten him in 3 races in 3 years lol... Rest of the time? *weeping into my coffee*

@@SRS13Rastus 1:37.135 what position does that put you on the leaderboard? never mind i just checked..showoff 😛(only joking) fair play, smashed straight into 1st 😀 you could have set me something achievable lol I will give your ghost a go with your setting but i think i will prob just end up locking the brakes and sliding off course. at least it will be entertaining to watch 🤣 i thought as it starts you at the beginning of a hot lap and not from the pits the tires and brakes would be at optimum temp? i think the more relevant film quote would be from Jeff Goldbloom in Independence day, "Yes, Yes try it again..but without the Ooops" 😁

yeah you are right, i make huge gains thro the chicane and instead of settling for the gap ive made i go harder on every other corner thinking i can make gains everywhere. i hadnt noticed the effect of the kerb at T12. but now you mention it its obvious. i have already recorded session 3 and will upload tomorrow, I think you will be impressed with the steps ive made thanks to you and thommo. 👍😎 im the words of bruce lee "be like water" 😀

"You put water into a bottle, it becomes the bottle. You put it into a teapot, it becomes the teapot. Now water can flow or it can crash. Be water, my friend.”

That don't surprise me you weirdo 🤪

@@SimRacingGrandad u do too

@@sweetart-f4d Thats just a rumor😎

That's Peyton 😆

@@SimRacingGrandad who again?

@@sweetart-f4d Peyton my granddaughter, I have bought her round to see your mom and dad but not sure if you were there

Thanks

@@SimRacingGrandad ur welcome

Thanks, still playing around with the editing suite to see what it can do

@@SimRacingGrandad that's cool

You've lost the plot 😆

@@SimRacingGrandad I lost the plot years ago

Thanks

You were outraged lol I have ghost enabled in tomorrow's upload. I had to turn it off tho as on the last lap I was 4 seconds faster than my fastest time and spun it out on the last corner. I was not happy so turned it off before I kicked something and broke a hip lol

@@SimRacingGrandad that'd get you well into the top 10 so I can understand the rage, had the same thing chasing the Group C Spa Historic WR several times after it changed hands between myself and another player. This was 18 months back well before V1.5 dropped and the boards got reset. Had to retune the car cause they dumped all saved setups as a result of many cars being effectively nerfed pretty hard. ruclips.net/video/j8q2jvDdQIo/видео.htmlsi=ftMFzDr5up4MbYez Think I still hold it atm after yet another battle for the top spot... Such is life, without being pushed we can't improve and excel...

@@SRS13Rastus just watched your lap, was that automoblista 2? Graphics and the way the ghost moved left and right on the track looked like Ridge Racer from the 90s😀

@@SimRacingGrandad Yeah no idea why YT knackered the quality THAT much, used the same settings as all my other vids yet it only shows at a max of 720p whilst the rest can display @ 4K despite it being a 1080p monitor. Guess YT processing failed for some reason....? As for the twitchy cars? The sauber has 800BHP & 570+ft-lb of torque and weighs just 850KG. The Nissan I'm driving has (iirc) 888BHP, close to 600ft-lb and weighs about the same. Neither of them have ABS, TC or stability control either making them faster on the straights than almost any other cars in AMS2, hitting 2020-230MPH with some tuning tweaks or 185MPH stock. Hellish to drive and vicious as hell if you make a single mistake...! 10km in under 2:45 is terrifying lol!

@@SRS13Rastus Looks intense, would be a bit bum squeaky in VR.😁 I had a similar problem with my first upload so i deleted it a tried again. After research i found out youtube uses 2 different encoders when uploading vids. If i create a vid at 1080p youtube uses its crappy encoder and quality is awful. If i change resolution on creation to 4K youtube gives it priority on its good encoder and quality is better. Downside is it takes "Hours" to upload a 15 min vid. Apparently the "good" encoder is saved for top channels and 4K vids, If you dont create in 4k on smaller channels the little guy gets the crappy encoder👎

Thanks for the kind words, unfortunately i don't have the spare cash to upgrade as if i purchased a new wheel system i would i need a stand to attach the wheel to and also a seat. I don't have a conventional PC setup. My PC is on the TV unit next to the TV and i use a wireless mouse and keyboard whilst sitting in the comfort of my sofa, that's why the F430 wheel with steering column and pedals all in one is ideal. I have not seen another all in one unit like this. If i had a conventional setup with a desk and chair then it would be a easier upgrade. I watched your vid, i see what you mean about the more sweeping lines. nice driving :) I will check out the tuning info once I have nailed the basics :) Thanks again for your feedback, it is greatly appreciated 👍

I just re watched the race and is see clearly what you mean, when I'm pushing hard i tend to turn in too early making the corner more of a V. The fact that I'm a HUGE Moto GP fan (real life, not the game) helps me understand easier as before the Aero Revolution the V4 bikes like the Honda's and Ducati's with more horsepower would brake hard into the corner and fire out making a V and using the acceleration to pull out the corner whereas the Inline 4s like the Yamaha and Suzuki would take more sweeping lines and carry more corner speed. I will put it in time trial next so its a clean track and i will turn on the HUD so its clear what im doing wrong Thanks again 👍

@@SimRacingGrandad I figured there'd be some logical reasons like those you mentioned, I've got a friend in a similar boat who just has no room to be able to fit even a chair in front of this TV stand, even though he really wants a wheel there's none that would fit (not even the one you're using). There's another problem of using any desk that the TV or monitor is on creating it's own issues, the biggest of these is if the stand is a centre mount the screen would likely wobble due to the torque of the forcefeedback. I had this problem back when I had 3 screens on the old PC desk I used as a stand, if one screen wobbling is bad 3 screens wobbling is way, WAY worse! Sea sick levels of worse! Like I said though, you're already pretty darned quick despite not having FFB. It's clear that you've got a very good grasp of racecraft despite these deficiencies. It's mainly braking points and racing lines that are holding you back from what I've seen. I don't know what the construction of the pedals is like but, there might be a possibility of adding some form of rubber backstop behind the brake pedal, this would at least give you some pressure underfoot at the end of the pedals travel and would aid you by letting muscle memory be your guide instead of foot position alone. If it's got a coil spring behind the pedal arm then even something like a pencil eraser cut to fit inside that spring and to a length even 10mm beyond the hard stop would be just about perfect as there'd be a change in the physical resistance to pressure, you might lose a tiny bit of pedal travel but the gains would outweigh that and you can recalibrate the pedal in game to compensate. If you're competent and confident in home DIY this might be worth considering as it's a cheap option at least. If not? No great loss, you won't miss what you've not experienced before. Either way those tips I gave you could still be a decent benefit given what I've seen so far, you've got the urge to improve and the bravery to show that to the public at large and ask for help in improving as much as you can. Chris's tuning guides might well give a huge leap as well, you never know, with and practice you could still bet much further up the leaderboards. That's another good place to look, time trial mode allows you to download a ghost of anyone that's already set a time, think it was mentioned in the Steam discussion you started as well. If you goto Time Trial and open it, below the car image you'll see 3 boxes with "Add Ghost", if you click on that it opens the current top 10 times set, then select a player of your choice and launch the event. There's an arrow just below the list that lets you move to the next 10 to set a time. You'll be taken to a shot of the track and your car but a few corners before the start line, and the ghost's name will be shown in the middle of the screen. If you hover the mouse pointer over the players name you'll see a spanner appear (if they used a custom setup there'll be a spanner shown to the right of the list). by clicking on that spanner, the game will instantly download and install their setup for you and save it as well. This sometimes still doesn't work as there's possibly an issue with the data on the server. You can also watch their full lap just by clicking on the players name, sadly there's no sound of the ghost lap but you can change the view to chase cam and see their brake lights come on, which will give you their braking points for each turn. You'll also see their racing line as well. you can pause the replay at any point e.g. right when the brake lights come on, then switching back to cockpit view gives you the view you'd see at each braking point. You can then run the time trial event and attempt to keep up with them. picking times close to your own but marginally faster is probably more sensible than trying to chase the world record holder, you can also select upto 3 ghosts but that can get a bot confusing and distracting when trying to beat them. Other than that there's options like joining some online groups (on discord or facebook etc), often these groups have their own dedicated servers which are password protected, they'll also have some code of conduct in place. Bad conduct isn't allowed or tolerated and as a result, it's far less likely you'll get ramming idiots than you occasionally get in open public lobbies that anyone can join. In all of them skill is less important than fair play. Mistakes happen and a simple "Sorry my bad." in the in game chat will disperse any possible animosity. Best of all you'll find the members to be as helpful as the people giving advice in your thread. I've often run 1 on 1 training sessions for people when asked, think of it like show and tell, you can spectate another car from the pit lane, then after a few laps the driver can return to the pits and the one spectating can drive whilst the other person watches from the pits and look for any issues and give feedback via the in game chat or via Steam chat if they're on your friends list, it's more instantaneous than watching a video then reading a wall of text like this. Discord also has the advantage of voice chat in most groups which would allow realtime advice on track. Many others in these groups would gladly do the same thing too. You'd need to create a discord account (that's free though) in order to join but it'd be well worth it imo. A few notable discord groups. Racecraftonline. They have dedicated servers with races running all times of the day and night, they also have their own website which tracks all your event results plus rewards safety and skill using their own rating system, with tiers, (rookie, bronze, silver, gold and platinum) which you can progress through. All races have some AI (10 if only one player joins) which drop as more players sign up for an event, iirc the cutoff point is if 5 players this'll mean there's no AI cars on track. You can choose to race just the AI and doing so they'll be at YOUR current settings in game. You'll still get rating points regardless of if there are other players involved. This is an invite to join their discord group discord.gg/JBTMMz3D This is their main website which tells you how it all works plus tracks your race data and player ratings if you join up. www.racecraft.online They run 3 rookie events that repeat every 3 hours qualifying is set for 8 minutes and the races are 15 minute long. The start times are spaced out so in just 3 hours you can do all 3 rookie events. You can also repeat events as often as you like, the only restriction is you have to gain the next rating level to try those events, if you're uber clean (no collisions and stay on track the whole race) and win the race you can graduate in just 5 races. They used to require you to complete 3 consecutive "clean laps" before you could register for an event but atm this has been suspended temporarily and might be completely removed. One race I as involved in ruclips.net/video/tNrOUodxRs0/видео.htmlsi=-fQQr-rf6LdF8atD Other groups have their own leagues and championships. such as. Slipstream AMS2, discord.gg/Hmp2KeEk They have 2 leagues running over 10 weeks, (top 7 results count for the championship) one midweek which starts @ 7pm BST each Wednesday with a fixed car for all 10 races, all sessions are 25 minutes long (qualifying and practice only). The other is every Sunday beginning 6:45pm but the cars are voted on each week in discord 5 minutes before the event starts, these races are 35 minutes long. One of their league races I joined last year. ruclips.net/video/of8CSL7x4ZU/видео.htmlsi=3DdmNqemgIzVx0Cj RWB International. www.rwbracing.club Very well organised loads of members These guys are currently half way through a 4 race a Ginetta cup series on Saturdays starting 8:30PM with 1 hour practice 15 mins qualifying and 45 minute races. They also do "Fundays" which are usually a few shorter races in the evening. A Funday race from way back in 2020... ruclips.net/video/rdkMU6uO0jY/видео.htmlsi=5dQ4p5HjbtYEvtus These 3 are just a few that I've joined since AMS2 launched, ALL of them are full of great people just looking for fair races, skill is less important than manners and owning up if or when you cause problems. That happens to the best of us lol. ALL such groups have a large number of people willing to help anyone who asks. We all got help in the past and many like to pay it forwards to new players wanting to learn. Some even have equipment offer threads with "mates rates" prices and a few people have been known to donate gear they no longer need to others who might need or want it. They're all petrol heads just looking for fun clean racing regardless of skill. Jesus wept... Another wall of text to wade through lol...

@@SRS13Rastus Thanks again, very informative. 👍 I will take a look at the pedal construction, I think there are 2 knobs at the back of each pedal, I'm not sure if they adjust resistance or travel distance. I like the idea of being able to watch back someones lap and pause/swap view to see breaking points from different angles, I didn't know that was possible, I will have to check that out. I think Racecraftonline would prob be more suitable as its more fluid allowing me to race when its convenient and not at set times, if i have understood that correctly.

@SRS13Rastus I am trying to turn in later but I am struggling to get it right, my instinct is to turn in earlier and its hard to get my brain to get past that 🤔 were you referring to just the Hairpin or all corners? You will notice in the upcoming time trial videos i am currently uploading I keep looking down to the left when i cross the start/finish line, this is because in the headset i can see the Sector/Lap times but they don't show in the recording, neither does the Rev counter/Speedometer to the right?