Видео

Not to worry, my friend. I did have a couple of times where I stapled the wires, and it did not hurt anything. It pierced the white PVC jacket but it did not damage the wires. Just pull the staple out and try again. An electric stapler would definitely make the job easier, as the hand-actuated ones slip and miss far more easily. It is definitely smart to have the power off when you are stapling because at worst you could blow the controller by shorting wires. But its worth the trouble. The wires just wouldn't lay flat without stapling them. After stapling, running a caulk bead on the sides of the wires, then painting makes your house look as nice as the one on the Govee box.

@ thanks so much for the response.

I got a better one! Drill 1/2” hole thru wall! Run wire thru it, I also I drilled 1 1/2” holes in soffit and ran wires thru attic!! If claustrophobic!!! Take of vents on soffit and snake wires thru with drain snake, first edition/edition 2 fit perfect at 16” on center then caulk diameter of it!! I promise you! You will love finished permanent professional look!!!

Awesome thing is once lights are all up you can put connection anywhere that they splice at! Your gonna want to have access to to switch at all times if it looses internet or power outages because then you have to reset and reconnect.

If its vinyl under the soffits, you might be able to get it to look acceptable by at least painting the wires the exact same color as the soffit (I would not apply paint to the cubes with the LEDs in them). The wires also don't lay flat, but one thing I have seen done for vinyl houses that fixes that is buying some aluminum channel (search for Muzata shallow LED channel on Amazon), cutting pieces to exactly the length of the wire section between the light bricks, and painting that the correct color. Its a bit of work, but done right Govee soffit lights are awesome!

@@Texans_tundraThere are limits in linear feet allowable from the controller to the end. At 450 ft you may be exceeding what one controller can drive. You'll probably need more than one controller. For static light displays, it won't matter much. For multiple controller setups, ultimately the software has grouping tools that allows syncing the actions of multiple controllers.

@@85antec Thanks for the help!

First you have to go into your attic and then make sure you can physically gain access to the desired area of the soffit from the inside. Then, from the outside, you will drill a hole on the underside of the soffit, big enough to pass the wires AND their round connectors through. You will start by pushing the wire in from the outside. You may find that using a wire fish tape (or any type of flexible wire pushing tool you can get at HD for cheap) may help you get the wire up through the bottom of the soffit and then be reachable from the inside of the attic where you then pull it through.

I say there's nothing wrong with adding an additional layer of safety. GFI would be a non-negotiable if the power pack was installed in an outdoor location. But since the high voltage conversion is happening entirely indoors, and the outlet will not be used for plugging in any other high voltage outdoor devices operating on 120VAC, you can forgo it. The Govee line voltage you have being exposed to moisture or any outdoor conditions from this is essentially like low-voltage landscape lighting wiring. For folks who aren't comfortable wiring in an outlet or working with anything high voltage, my point was that this group of people can easily make use of a 3 dollar screw-in bulb socket plug adapters in the attic, which I would bet the majority of houses might have.

Attics can vary in their highest temperatures. In Kansas City, we get summers that can have blistering hot days, and winters that are down in the negative temps. I've had no issues with both of my controllers installed in the attic for some time now. As you can see in my video, I do think it is important to mount the power pack and the controller in a way that at least lets air get around it. That should help it run cooler. But keep in mind, this is billed as a product capable of outdoor install, the controller and power pack has to be able to withstand being in direct sunlight, which would result in it getting very hot. I would say an attic reaching temperatures so hot as to cause damage would also mean that attic ventilation issues need correction before anything else. Electronics have to survive being installed in the interior of parked cars in the Arizona sun, which is far worse than any attic.

No, having vinyl soffits is a gift! Cut perfect squares in to it at 16” on center so that you can tuck/hide wires and attach side, once you put lights into soffit caulk diameters and it will look amazing!!!!!!!!!!!!!

There are govee tracks you can buy

I think that you should put a few lights up like 5 or 10, and experiment with what you think looks best. Because it drastically affects how it looks. You can always buy more of that 3m adhesive on Amazon. If you don't like the triangular/scalloped lighting effect at all then I wouldn't use this product.

This system on my house has been up and running since October this year, and hasn't been power cycled or reset since. I've had zero hardware glitches so far. Wifi communication seems to have no issues. I encountered some limitations on reliable Bluetooth, connectivity, but it seems it is only needed during initial setup and for some music sync features.

I considered that too, but then you have to think about just how blistering hot it gets inside a parked car, and all those much higher tech electronic gadgets are expected to last the life of a vehicle. So I would think an outdoor rated appliance that won't even be in use during the daytime should be able to handle an attic that reaches 130 degrees. Electronics do prefer cooler temps though...

@@85antec Heat kills, power supply just might shutdown as it's only rated for 45C which is 114F. Where you have it mounted though will have convection cooling so fingers crossed. ;)

glad you found it helpful. I wanted to make a video about technicalities you don't think about upfront when you are looking at all the flashy promo pics of houses with it installed.

When I first put up the lights, I loved how it looked turned on. But in the daytime, those twisty looking white wires made my OCD go off the deep end. What this product really needs is peel-and-stick backing also on the wires that makes them adhere and lay flat. This is probably one of the easiest ways you could improve the quality and ease of install for this product.

This installation was done with the regular consumer version. As discussed in the video, I was not happy with the overall appearance until I stapled the wires flat, ran caulk along the wire's edge, and then painted the wires the matching color. It truly looks invisible after you do that. I would not paint the light cubes themselves.

I did the same thing adding an outlet off of an already existing run in the attic and I am not having any connectivity issues. I will add we do have a home Wifi Mesh system which definitely helps with connectivity throughout and around our house, but I do think we would still be okay with the mesh goes and these lights being able to stay connected.

Luckily, most of the functions run off Wifi which has no connectivity problems. Bluetooth works, but is a little spotty. It seems the only time BT connection is needed is when you are programming the functions that group multiple controllers together for synchronizing a scene.

Here's how you do it: Open the app, and click on "Devices". Choose your device. As you scroll down the page, you'll see four tabs, called "Music" "Color" "Scene" and "DIY". Choose the "Color" tab. Now within the "Color" tab, you'll see the choices "Segmented" and "Advanced". Choose "Advanced". Now scroll down the page a little further. In the block of choices called "Effect", it doesn't matter what effect is highlighted, just make sure the slider called "Speed" is set to zero, or off. Now scroll down a little more, and you see below this a block of options that let you now control each individual light. The diagram shows every individual bulb as a segment in a chain for every bulb that your controller is connected to. This is where you can now turn on/off individual bulbs. On the color selection, choose the greyed option with the red slash through it. With that selected, set all the bulbs to this, which is the off state. Now using the color picker, choose the color you want to be used for the few bulbs you want to keep on. Pick this color, then start highlighting the bulbs you want to stay on. You'll accidentally highlight the wrong ones or too many as you do this, but with a little patience you can isolate exactly the right ones to create spotlight effects. I had to use the color wheel to find a color I truly liked to create the nice "soft white" natural look. The color presets were all too white or too yellow for my tastes. Once you get it exactly like you like, you'll see a green camera icon that is always present sliding down the app page no matter where you are at. Tap this, and give this "snapshot" a name. This is how you recall the setting later with one click. Once you have done this, any time you start at the home page and click "Device", you can tap on the "snapshot list" chevron arrow that is directly above the "brightness" slider. This immediately recalls your preset.

@@85antec Awesome man. Thank you so very much. I appreciate you taking the time to write all that out for us. Have a good holidays!

Make a hole starting at a corner where your lights would start, on the underside of the soffit. Since you are going to have to connect power, make sure you can physically reach that same place from within the attic. Use a wire fish tape to push it through, then grab it from within the attic and connect it. You can also run the wire out of a soffit vent if you don't want to drill a hole.