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@@mattjones5175 to keep your Palo Verde smaller first start out with not watering too much. After it is established water no more than once a month in the summer and maybe one time in the winter depending on rainfall of course. If you prune your Palo Verde with reduction cuts, and you avoid thinning cuts, it is going to tend to “hold the prune“ a lot longer. In other words, it will stay away from the things that you do not want it near for a greater amount of time between prunings. If your concern is with the height of the tree, you may also make reduction cuts on the upper limbs in the same fashion that you reduce the lower horizontal limbs. Just be sure that you have not taken out the inner crown or you will not have anything to reduce down to. You can only reduce to a branch that the tree has offered so do yourself and the tree of favor and refrain from cutting off those offers. If you do end up making reduction cuts for height reduction, it is best to do so after the summer since Palo Verdes are extremely prone to sun damage.

​@@ArboristAdvice It all makes sense to me now! Thank you so much. This tree is the showpiece on the corner of our desert-landscaped property in a rather large area section. Lot's of great comments from people re this tree...mostly because of your tips on pruning. Thank you so much for taking the time!

@@mattjones5175 Glad to hear our videos are helping care for your Palo Verde. I've always thought of this information as not being common sense but once you hear it, it makes complete sense.

Whoa whoa! Don’t think I said that in the video.. We make reduction cuts in part to avoid making thinning cuts. A little more detail: we make reduction cuts, primarily for three reasons. 1. To reduce a limb away from something that we do not want it near. 2. To decrease the amount of leverage that the wind has over a previously lion tailed limb that has grown long and weak. 3. To subordinate a low limb that is growing into a high place. I hope this clarifies for you.

@@alicemoore1367 just as it was popular to “top” trees in the 1960’s & 70’s, it is now popular to “lion tail” which is essentially the removal of the inner crown. As the word gets out more and more tree owners learn of the benefits of nurturing the inner crown.

@@adamevans8234 by “safe”, I believe you are asking if it healthy for the palm tree. When palms are pruned with the removal of only minimal green fronds, they do not require pruning as often, and therefore would not need to be spiked annually. Certainly a healthier option for Palm pruning is to gain access with the boom truck but this is not always possible in a backyard due to limited reach. Another possibility is to use a crane with a man basket but this is usually not cost effective for most customers. Although it may seem like a straight forward answer, there are many factors to consider in the arboriculture industry including health, function, safety and cost. An encompassing consideration of all the factors makes arboriculture services available to everyone in our community.

Thank you for your reply, good advice

Glad to help!

I've also seen them for sale on amazon with only the duck bill and a cable for tying down anything to the ground. Tables, benches etc.

@@nimajnebrm Pruning with reduction cuts, or structural pruning applies to every tree. The differences you find will be in the growth patterns of each species.

@@saima08k So glad it was useful to you.

@@TomJerry-yr5vv two answers to that question: yes, cut it off if you absolutely need that limb to be gone. In other words, if it is in the way, and there is nothing you can do to get it out of the way then cut it off. If you do not need it out of the way immediately, then give it some time because it may grow sprouts on it. If it does grow a sprout, even though that sprout may only look like a blade of grass at first, it will eventually become thick in diameter and may even be a significant part of the crown umbrella. At that point, you can reduce back to the new sprout.

I think the question is, why would I remove the lower limbs?

@@TomJerry-yr5vv the issue you are referring to is “co-dominance”. If the union of the codominant limbs is a U union there is not muchconcern. However, if the union is a “V” union, the two limbs may start to push against one another as they become thicker in diameter. To lessen this likelihood, choose which limb you want to be dominant. Then, Make reduction cuts throughout the limb that should be subordinate so that you make it essentially “less than”. This will give the main dominant trunk, the opportunity to become “greater than”. Do this over 3 to 5 years rather than all at once. It’s a process. If there is already evidence of splitting at the union of your codominant trunks, then consider supplemental support with cabling and bracing.

@@wombatop4069 You got it. Live in the solution. Be safe or better yet, pay attention.

@@ArboristAdvice I am not a person with any ego. Been screwed over by people who seemed good in the begining. I am happy to hear from you. Thanks for your feedback

Your are welcome!

@@alexdroban4312 Of corse. Glad to help.

You bet!

@@bradholland241 Thanks. You bet! I was going for baroque.

Hey. Thanks for noticing.

The risk of codominant trunks is that they start to become included by pushing up against one another. I did not mention in the video that this does not hold true if the union is a “U” union and not a “V”union. When the union is tight like the letter “V” then the codoms are likely to eventually push against one another. If this is the case with your desert willow then pick the leader and subordinate what should be the lower limbs. Don’t try to do this all in one season. The larger and more mature the tree then the longer the correction will take. Even if you are never completely successful with creating absolute dominance, the scaffolding system will be stronger having simply been pruned with that goal in mind.

@@susanvose8713 Thank you Susan!

Yes, I noticed changes in all the growth patterns of the trees we prune. Basically, when the inner crown is removed as it is so often, it causes lower limbs to grow long, which then see the light of day at the end of the crown and start to grow thick, causing codominance. Codominance then causes included bark which eventually causes breakage. We find those limbs that start low and go to high places and subordinate them with reduction cuts. Those same limbs usually tend to be a one-to-one aspect ratio with their leader, or trunk. Keep lower limbs lower and allow the main trunk to dominate.

Certainly, Overtime, your mesquite will naturally form a large umbrella crown. Nurturing the lower crown is key to having a strong scaffolding system that includes that large umbrella you are striving for. In other words nurture the inner crown (the lower limbs) of your mesquite and do not remove them. Do this by making reduction cuts to avoid dysfunctionality (I.E. reduced from walkway, street, house, etc.) Keeping the lower crown reduced (not removing it completely) will also keep what should be lower away from what should be dominant allowing the "umbrella" to defy our monsoons. The "block shape" you mentioned will also be avoided when you keep the lower crown subordinate through reduction cuts.

@@AZnomad of corse. Hope it was useful to you.

Thanks for saying so, I suggest you become an ISA Certified Arborist. Doing so will give you much knowledge and increase your resources. Good luck!

Very Welcome

Excellent point!

Glad you found the video.

Burls are an especially weak point on a limb. So definitely not!

Glad it was helpful.

Great question! Not a short answer. When a limb is removed from its leader that is called a "Thinning" cut. Thinning, Lion Tailing and removing the inner canopy are all the same thing. We make "Reduction" cuts to avoid "Thinning" cuts. "Reduction" cuts are cutting a leader back to a branch. There are three main reasons to make reduction cuts and avoid thinning cuts. In other words, there are three main reasons to nurture the inner canopy and not remove it. 1. A tree has an actual physiological response to thinning by growing weak and long. The opposite is true for a reduction cut which encourages future growth to be thicker in diameter and stronger. So, thinning creates weakness and length while reduction causes thickness and strength. 2. The inner canopy is more sensitive to sunlight since it is naturally more shaded it collects nutrients from the sun during low light conditions like cloud cover but even more importantly at dusk and dawn which occurs six to seven hours every day of the tree's life. Add that up and it is a lot of time that trees without inner canopies are not able to photosynthesize. 3. The inner canopy acts as a vibration reduction system minimizing the energy/vibration from the wind going to the ends of limbs. Another significant reason to keep the inner canopy on your mesquite: Since thinning grows limbs quicker in length, those limbs start to see the light of day and become codominant with the leader or trunk. This leads to a 1 to 1 aspect ratio in diameter which leads to included bark which leads to a large lower limb tearing completely off. This is very common due to inner canopies being removed. You can accomplish your goal for shade with making reduction cuts and keeping the tree functionally away from whatever you do not want it near. For more clarification try watching my video on Reduction vs. Thinning.

Very glad to help!

Glad to help!

Glad to help! Sometimes that snap cut is all you got and you definitely don't want it to snap before you have your hands on it.

Thanks

You are right! I should have used the term crown which refers to an individual tree as opposed to a canopy which refers to a community of trees as in a forest.

@@ArboristAdvice I do the same all the time. good work solid arborist stuff much love brother

I do not have a pine pruning video; however , the same “Reduction” concept can be used. The slight difference is in the growth patterns of pines but leaders can still be pruned back to branches which is “Reduction”.