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If your cribbing is secured well (potentially with metal brackets) you should be fine. When in doubt, call your local planning/inspection department and ask. Mine is very helpful and would much rather answer a question in advance than fail an inspection.

Glad to hear. If you have questions about it, let me know. I want more of these trucks going down the road. Don't know if your username highlights that you're an Aussie, but the company I work for just acquired a software company out of Brisbane and I've been working with a lot of folks down in Oz since the start of the new year - great group of folks.

@@jasonkraus2831 Yup. Aussie. Looking to take my F250 back to Australia with me. As for the exhaust, I'm gonna have to take it to a shop to have the pipes over the axle bent a bit to maintain the clearances. I had to cut about 5 inches out of one side and 8 inches out of the other.

did you use the donut gaskets ?

@@sgshop15 I think so, but I've slept at least once since then : )

am asking because i wan to i stall the same kit on main but i wan to see if i need to use thise donuts rings gaskes cuz i have the original manifolds still let me know plzzz thankx alot

Each board has shrunk an 1/8 on each side (so they've opened up by a quarter of an inch). Not ideal for some, but the shrink also didn't break any screws loose. My FIL built a deck at the same time and face screwed his boards and about 1 in 4 have sheered off due to wood shrinking.

@@jasonkraus2831 thanks for the response. I had to remove some boards that I recently put down and a lot of screws (deck mate) broke right off. I’m guessing that the wood drying out was the culprit. They’re all screwed down on the face, so I’m leaning towards the Camo system now. I just don’t want the 1/8” gap to turn into 1/2” gap when the wood shrinks because the screws go in on the sides. Did you have to tighten any screws once the wood dries?

Haven't tightened a single screw since I built it.@@hawaiiantimes7702

I really didn't feel like paying for 24' lumber. Not sure why this is a question...

ps... The original color of mine is that same blue colour.

@@kylekramer7469 Yessir - that is a 65 color (technically not a '66 color but I liked it so much I wanted to change my truck). I'm so glad what I did is helping. This was the whole reason for me starting a channel - nobody laid out what they did to resolve these issues with the old metal beds and the parts just aren't there to resolve it in a way that worked for me. As you go through your work, pop on and ask me any question you've got. I'm glad to help in any way.

@@jasonkraus2831 thanks for your reply Jason. Thanks for your offer. I also enjoyed your other rebuild videos.

They can be found! Good luck and let me know if anything I have done has helped or if I can get you more info. The nice thing about the '65's is that I think they still make the radiator subframe part for them. For the '66 F-100's you are out of luck!

Yep - Nobody is making a true OEM harness, even in component form (Firewall to Engine, Firewall to Dash, to Ignition, etc.) Wish I had better knowledge, but I'm just not finding one anywhere - even now.

It is a Cruise-o-matic and was stock with this truck. They also called it the 'green dot' transmission and maybe even a C-4 (but I may be wrong). The 'green dot' is on the gear selector for standard Drive. It had a mode for snow where it started you in 2nd gear to reduce wheel spin (a white dot on the shift selector). Really reliable 3 speed automatic is what it is at heart - and that's coming from a spot where we absolutely abused this thing - like towing combine headers without 2nd gear.

Congrats Paul! Welcome to the club! Awesome news.

They were a combo of face screwed and angled in with the Camo tool. So the ones on the inside of the frame had angled camo screws and then I face screwed down through the top for the outside of the frame boards.

@@jasonkraus2831 thank you.

I think there is a single wire that is labelled Coil that goes right there. I will check the truck after a bit and that wire specifically.

@@jasonkraus2831 there was also a brown wire I couldn’t figure out that was an “alternator exciter” wire I was told

@@logansims9577 That's a big change with this harness especially if you have the voltage regulator and are still using that - this harness is built for an internally regulated alternator. Let me see if I can film something about my setup and get it uploaded that will help you.

So far they seem to be as strong. The deck has been down for over a year in weather from -5F to 105F, gets 8 hours of direct sun every day, and no boards are loose or creaking. I also didn't split any of the pressure treated boards as I ran the screws in - something that I can never seem to say when face screwing without pre-drilling. I cannot attest to running these into tropical hardwoods like acacia or ipee - I've never done it. For me, my only complaint has been how much my pressure treated boards shrank as they finished drying after install.

@@jasonkraus2831 I had bought the camo pro and screws. When I bought my wood(red balu) I asked the guys at the warehouse what they thought. I am using 1 x 6 and they said to use face screws...that the hidden camo do not hold enough of the wood....so that is the route i went.

@@jasonkraus2831 so when i went to buy my decking(1 x 6) locally I asked the guy what he thought he said he did not think screwing in from the side held as well and recommended just bugle flats thru the top so thats what I will do.

If you could do it all over again, would you still use the Camo, and where the gap’s bigger than you wanted after the wood shrank?

@@paochino6973 Like I said I just did the old fashioned way cause more than a few who do decks told me they just don't hold as well makes sense...Also...I had probably 300 boards to tie down, had two guys helping me. If i would have used the camo it would have been really a lot slower IMO, For me there was a lot of custom cutting and adjusting as the deck was not square...so it really would have slowed things down...and honestly...a year or more later...I don't mind that the screw heads show...they are countersunk...I really don't notice and if i ever need to do a repair it seems it will be easier to do...just my two cents...don't overthink it.

It is a 1965 Ford color - Tropical Turquoise. If you're having it mixed at a shot that uses the old factory recipe books it is 1965 Ford Truck paint code O as in Oscar (not zero)

@@jasonkraus2831 I have a 65 and that color is showing up were someone painted over it. That is what I'm going to paint it,but I may add metallic to it.

@@blakeneysanders4264 So was yours a factory O code? Very cool. Mine was originally a Y code Caribbean Turquoise (much more green than this).

Yes - I did put the blocks end grain up. That may not be the best decision for overall wood durability but the deck has been stained and will continue to be protected from rot. You should see also that I do have these ends landing on a full width joist or cripple at all times. Good luck on your projects..

Yes - would still recommend them without any hesitation. I have honestly had more of an issue with the pressure treated lumber shrinking so much. The CAMO system has held up even despite the lumber shrinking and having a very snowy and cold winter.

@@jasonkraus2831 thanks for your quick response. I’m about to build my deck with the same wood that you have and those screws kind looking tiny compared to traditional decking screws... my fear was that after a while those screws will go back up. Yeah I heard about the shrinking part for this type of wood but the “better boards” are crazy expensive! Thank you

@@ruffie8492 Put one in every joist and you won't have any issues with these screws. Best of luck!

Unless you changed your speedometer away from the cable setup, it's not a wiring issue. Your speedo cable is a single spring running through a long housing that connects from the passenger side of your transmission to your dash directly behind the speedo. Check that first. On your other gauge wiring, take your time. Is it still factory or has it been updated? One thing to note - these old dash lights ran on bulbs, so you may need to replace them if they are burned out (I have one burned out now and need to replace that while I work on some other refresh items) So more videos relating to wiring and dash work coming soon.

Thank you for your feedback. I certainly learned a lot doing it and hope it helps anyone doing the same work avoid a mistake.

I got the American AutoWire Classics Update kit. I'm still looking for a factory harness setup and will probably move back to that setup if I ever find one. The one I have is working, but there's some key changes to equipment and methodology that I had to make to adapt it to the oem equipment I'm running.

61-66 FORD F-100 PICKUP AMERICAN AUTOWIRE CLASSIC UPDATE SERIES KIT 510260

Good luck and God Bless. Let me know if you have any questions that I can help with or if a quick video of my truck might answer a question. I'd be more than happy to film something quick and pop it out here.

With the current 'upgrade' wiring harness, no. The ammeter will not work off a one wire alternator from what I am seeing. If I remember correctly (and I've slept at least once since tackling this), It is looking at the delta of the amperage off the voltage regulator to show charging vs discharging. I'm actively looking for a way to find a 'factory' harness setup and roll back to that from the AAW 'upgrade' kit but it's proving hard to find. Any tips - please let me know.

Not directly. What I did for the cigar lighter is I took the power feed for the power windows and utilized that instead. I'm never going to put power windows on this truck, so that was an easy trade for me. There are power feeds for windows and locks on this harness - it's the Classics Update harness so you have all sorts of those that you could utilize.

Biggest thing that I learned was to do everything I could to keep things stock. I departed from that with the wiring harness and I regret it now. I'm making plans to move back to a stock harness at some point in the future but that's going to be a bit painful to accomplish. Feel free to ping me along the way, I need to shoot a video about replacing the fuel pump as I had to do that a bit ago.

@@jasonkraus2831 ive nevwr worked on cars so these youtube vids along with my chiltons manual are key. The fuel pump was super easy. Im on my way iut there now to see whats up with the brakes. Master cylinder looks like uts been bone dry for some time.

@@jasonkraus2831 feeling a little defeated after a long day working on the truck. I was finally able to get her to idle by herself but it sounds like maybe a rod knock. Unfortunately my friend who started her up for the first in 18 years did not prime the pump. Any suggestions?

@@albertrobinson6018 I'd start taking down the top of the motor to check it all out. I did that when I had the motor out of mine but I didn't have a knock to start with, it just didn't want to start or idle well. Now I think back and realize the fuel pump was bad then and that was most likely my problem. Start with taking down your intake and valve covers and really look at your rods and rockers. If you have to go deeper, you're probably looking at an engine-out rebuild.

I'll have to dig to see if I do. I've got to tell you, it was a bit butchered before I got to it as well. I've found some wiring diagrams online that show the colors of what went where but the wire colors on my original wiring didn't match what the internet says it should have been. Are you trying to find wiring colors and purposes or just info/images to how they routed the wires?

The channel is Rudy's Resurrection - Episode 15: ruclips.net/video/hlhRM3zIqzc/видео.html What I found was that I just gently and slowly bent the channel by hand to shape. Key words being 'gently' and 'slowly'. Take your time. As you bend it, the wires at either side will start to extend at the end of the channel. That's fine. Cut them flush once you have it bent to shape. I am in no way affiliated with Rudy - don't know him except through his videos. I think the next video in my series I touch on the sequence that I used as I assembled the other window hardware. Let me know if you have any other questions.

Any recommendation for which to choose or the best place to source one? Definitely hit a vaporlock issue late in the day on Sunday.

@@jasonkraus2831 Well I don't think you can buy a vented cap anymore from the parts store because of vapor release laws. You may be able to find an NOS one by doing a search but I modified mine and it works great. On Ford Truck Enthusiasts there was a thread telling how to do it. You just drill a very small hole in a specific spot. Do a search on how to vent a gas cap you should find it.

Strong work and thank you for the kind words. God Bless.

The swap for power steering isn't that easy from what I've read and I don't have the budget for buying it along with everything else that I need to acquire along the way. On the power brakes, if my kingpins were shot, I'd change them out for a disc brake conversion. That'll probably happen in about five or six years when I need to change them out, but right now I'm going to bring it back stock.

Thank you, sir! Love these trucks and love hearing about others doing the work to get them going. If you have any tips for me or questions on what/why I'm doing do not hesitate to comment.

Thanks for your input. I will have to investigate those. Not that I'm in a hurry to start another one of these trucks, but there's one for sale up the street cheap (under $2k) and it sounds like it needs a rewire.

I don't have the proposals anymore, but I do have my spreadsheets (not worth much to many outside my area). Hit me on Instagram (krausandsons) and we can talk about the research you're working on.

@@jasonkraus2831 I followed you.