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Having had my Stag for over 30 years, I have had these out numerous times, and there are a number of ways and means. Lots of ridiculous myths as well. One bloke on a page about Brit cars "Stags are terrible, HALF the hreads are left handed, and they don't tell you!!!!!" FGS, I have had EVERY SINGLE nut or bolt undone on a Stag, and there is ONE (yes, ONE!!!!) LH thread, that is that water pump bolt, and it is LH for multiple reasons. It TELLS you in the book, AND it has "L" stamped on the top of it in every one I have had off (at least half a dozen). So in "Exagerworld", ONE is "half of them...." Ludicrous, but haters gotta hate. Initially, the water pump SHOULD come out by just turning the centre bolt. That drives it against the skewed teeth of the drive gear, and that propels it upward. while running, the slew of the gears pulls it in. So one of two things should happen, shaft complete WP will come out, or the shaft will come out, leaving the brass basket behind. The brass basket can be removed with a slide hammer. There are a couple of ways to secure it. You can use a hook, OR can get a disc with a hole in the middle and a bolt in it with a nut to secure it. file off the sides of the disc, and then angle it in and across, screw slide hammer into bolt thread - pull it out. That c type hook you used between slide hammer and shaft - I found that some square section tubing (mine was about 3/4" I think, 1" may be better, as less fiddly, but 3/4 was all I had ) - cut a small piece and drill a hole in each side............. not as springy as a "one sided C", instead you have a little square box piece and is very stiff. I rebuilt my first leaking Stag WP, and then didn't have a problem for a long time, but then made the mistake of buying a "brand new Unipart one" that was one of the "not properly hardened ones" and it ate my jackshaft within 500 kms. From then on I rebuilt old ones with known shafts. I have done 330,000 kms in my car, so makes sense you'd go through a few. I had never bought any reconned parts/always used old parts/condition assessed by myself. I decided to give my car a birthday, and bought a "completely rebuilt" engine from the UK. I should have done what I wanted to do, rebuild an old block that I had here instead. The heads were skimmed far too far (the car is even now higher compression than they should be, even WITH the thickest gaskets); but even worse, when I went to fit the water pump, there were two huge gouges in the cast iron sealing surfaces from where the guy had used a hook and slide hammer to remove the WP. I mean, HOW HARD do you have to belt cast iron a 1/4 of an inch thick to butcher it?? I wouldn't have bought it if I had known that. So I had to use Devcon to fix it. It doesn't leak, but I KNOW it is there, and it really annoys me. Anyway, great vid, good to see people doing things like this. Cheers.

You really need to take better care of your stag engine !. 🤔🤭🤐

Triumph last car a rebadged Honda Acclaim a sad end to a once great mark

My Daddy had a Beige Triumph Acclaim Car in Beige HLS 5 Speed Manual Gearbox with the 1335 Honda Engine in which Honda used in the Honda Ballade / Accord / Civic. My Daddies HLS Car was a 1983 X Reg XLB247X with the Henlys Dealer Number Plates on & Henlys Dealer Sticker on at the back Windscreen. My Daddies Best Jamaican Friend Rupert owned a Red Triumph Acclaim HLS 5 Speed Manual Car As Well which my Daddy borrowed off Rupert 40 Years ago back in the Mid 80’s when the Starter Motor was Gone on my Daddies White Sherpa Leyland Van

Thank you Barry , how did you remove the internal Bush left in the block?

Do you really need to replace this bushing? In all respect with the water pump in situ and correctly meshed with the jack shaft and the water pump spindle assembly housing sat down correctly, I would propose there is no issue. Unless the bushing is completely trashed. Engine looks sweet!

Lovely car

will we get a full triumph acclaim engine rebuild?

Mine does this but its dangerous as the abs kicks the pedal up whilst coming up to junctions etc. Did yours do this?

Hi, did you do a video of removing the water pump bearing as im keen to see how you went about this task. I recently removed a bearing from my 1850 by using a punch as a bearing puller would not do the job. Im keen to see how you removed your old bearing & drifted in the new one.

I’ve had a couple of these, my dad’s had one. This is such a beige beauty. 😍

I would welcome a video on the bearing removal please

That will work, you don't need to always spend big money to get the job done!! Take care, thanks for sharing!!

Wow very nice

Hi Barry, those mounts are correct for the Sprint engine, you also have the double chain sprockets making that a sprint block.

Hi Barry. Great video. Any idea where I can get replacement mounts? Mine are all a bit...worn/persished and they're only 41 years old!

Hi Barry. I used to sell the Triumph Acclaim new. I had a demonstrator. Best car BL ever put together. Mine was red. Reg No. RPM 700 X. They look like a grand daddy car don't they? But the truth is, it was one of the best-handling cars I ever drove or sold. The driving position is nigh on perfect. Lovely gearbox and light wonderfully spaced pedals. The engine of course is the Civic S...twin carb engine so it really goes well. Year's down the road I bought one, no MOT and big dent in the door. A bit of sill welding and popping the dent out, it got an MOT. If you give it some stick it transformed the car and performed out of it's skin. Quite wonderful and I paid £45 for it. Something about those cars I loved. I even went to the launch day up north. What an incredible show. They had one flying over our heads in spectacular fashion. Never forget it. Brings back lovely memories of selling a car with no after sales faults for a change. I sold loads of them. I sold more Triumph Dolomites than anyone else in the country at the time aswell. I loved those too. Happy days. 🙂

Nice!

💥 Promo SM

I have the same one, Aldi I think? It’s good for gauging, but it lacks any sort of accuracy. Certainly won’t rely on it for critical measurements.

I cannot get the plunger/plug out of my TR7 oil pump. I've got everything else apart quite happily. The manual says very helpfully "use a suitable soft drift to tap out the plug from the underside of the pump cover" but I cannot get any kind of drift in there. I've tried WD40 and heat to loosen it up. Any thoughts. Thanks

Completely useless I would say. good luck with the rest of the car. Bob

" Little knocks can move great rocks, where bigger knocks will break them" is what was taught to me by a man who rebuilt engines in the desert in 1942.

Yep great idea , iv built three stag engines all were supposed to be scrap , on looking on the outside oil , crude , rust ,looked bad , when I striped them down measured the bits , checked warpage , all perfect condition in the inside , it's just the gaskets and o rings braking down after 40 50 years old it's normal , so not the terrible engines wer led to believe, point being Your tip here is right on the nail ! Thanks

It’s a good idea and one I may copy if I take my crossmember off again in the future. That said, the damaged bone you showed looked pretty corroded and I wonder if that was more the reason it got damaged? I say this as I have owned my Stag for over 16 years now, done a full bare shell resto 3 years ago. Throughout that time I have always jacked it on that crossmember and it’s still fine….

Good idea for improving the front cross memeber. Cheers Bob

Isn't a Stag engine a V8 ?

At least say something.

I have thought of getting a cheap endoscope. I have no desire at all to see the inside of my colon, but a quick peek into an engine could be very useful. I could have used one last week when I split the cases on a motorcycle looking for a circlip I had dropped. Found the bloody thing eventually, it had slotted itself neatly into a small crack in the bench.

Yes found stag engines like this , the bores usually clean up with a hone if not too pitted , may find the rings jammed up gentle heat here, new rings needed no dowt , with the heads clean up check warpage, if flat that's good , check inlet valves don't protude below head surface , if skim needed take little as poss , thanks Barry great to see as found !

Not the nicest discovery!!! Will it be salvageable?

Yes interesting let us know the rest of the rebuild, not many stag hands on spanner jobs help tips listed , mainly mint cars , in my experience+ 30 is the limit as mentioned, biggest cause of failure is using thin modern oils , stag engine 20/50 high zinc oil because running clearance thin oil gets washed away and metal to metal will destroy crank , it was designed in the sixties so run with old classic oils. The oil pump has an Eaton with built in pressure release which is not the best design iv known two with broken springs and have changed one to a known quality one , thanks for sharing,

Hi Barry, interesting, your bearings are well knackered and I assume your crank journals are scored, it would have been interesting to see those too. Thirty thou is probably at the limit as Stag crank journals are a bit weak anyway, an engineer could advise. If it is still usable do remember Stag cranks are steel and not cast iron making them softer, any grinding means tuftriding or nitriding to harden the surfaces up otherwise they will fail again very quickly. A good used one may be the best way forward.🤞🤞

Looking good… Do not drive it if there’s a10% chance of Rain.👍🏼😜

Looking like a great restoration. good luck with the rest. Cheers Bob

Excellent 👍

I had great trouble getting mine out of a TR7 until I got a slide hammer. It was then easy!

Just found your channel Barry - nice job. I'll enjoy watching

Nice job, keep up the good work👍

Hello Dear, I have same problem .. where are these rings located ? and do they have a part number to buy ? Thank you

Nice. What colour is that on the shell?

bonjour;probleme resolut.idem que vous ,ABS en fonction immédiate dés pression sur la pédale.remplacement des bagues 60 dents sur les deux cardans avant.aprés tout ok

I had the same problem with mine, Its a faulty brake pedal switch. Replace the switch under/ behind the brake pedal, cheap and easy.

Well did you fix the issue with abs rings or not 🤔 just curious that's all

I second the abs (exciter) ring must have somehow during your bearing replacement moved or got damaged. Check that it is in it's position and has all it's teeth. Good luck

I had similar issue but only at slow speeds turn around etc. Similar sound to the video, pedal going solid and taking alot of force to stop with little braking which seems like what is happening here. When I changed the ball joints and cv boots early last year i found the rings the abs sensors pick up on were broken or no longer held to the cv joints (can't remember fully now). Since fitting the new cv joints which have the pick up rings on them it never did it again and has been almost two years. That was the only thing I touched on the brake at that time. Maybe something worth checking on.