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I am glad it helped you! Thanks for watching and God bless

I have never measured the pads. I think they were about 1mm. The thickness is not that important. The pads only increase the friction between the parts. It is the heat sink that dissipates the heat. I have even used thermal paste instead. I hope that helps and thanks for watching. God bless, Lee

Too thick is better than too thin. It needs to touch both parts and compress a little.

Thanks for the reply 🙂

@@anchalkashyap5984 Were you able to replace the thermal pads correctly? Were you able to get more information about the thickness?

Might try a fresh re installation of the Operating system.

Sorry I missed you. Ram is integrated on the mobo. Non replaceable.

Reverse order?

And now you know. Thanks for watching!

Glad to hear it! Thanks for watching!

Z-0 before start sounds right. The head should move all the way up to 0 before the spindle starts. It sounds like a homing or z axis direction issue. Z axis has only negative values from the home position. X and Y have only positive values from the home position. While all 3 axis can move in both a positive and negative direction, They can never travel past the "zero" home position. Thanks for watching. Lee

DDR4-3200 • NON-ECC • SODIMM • 260-pin • PC4-25600

Thanks for watching

Thank you for such a kind comment! I am glad it helps. Thanks for watching... Lee👍

Thanks for watching!

Thank you so much. I have a new cnc controller I will be sharing soon. I hope you are doing well!

Nope, the gpu is integrated into the motherboard. Thanks for watching!

@@leecraftsmen5702 Is there a laptop with an 8th generation Intel processor or higher that supports changing the graphics card?

Higher end Precision do. Check out my Precision 7520 video.

Check out the Alien M15 video for gaming machines with gpu cards.

thanks i know that Dell precision 7530 support changing gpu@@leecraftsmen5702

HMM, I have never encountered what you are describing. Is the time line marker pulled to the right?

I'm the original commenter, but was on a work computer.@@leecraftsmen5702 THe timeline marker is dancing around the Greyed out Insert of the Nut template and the related sketches, I started from zero multiple times and it repeats again and again at that point. I'm sure it's my errors, but it's quite frustrating.

Sorry . Your reply slipped thru the cracks. I have no idea. My gut feeling is that you have a issue with your computer. I have never had that type of instability with fusion 360. Maybe a driver or software sharing conflict for ownership of the image you inserted? Just a guess. Wish I had more for you to go on.

What a nice comment! I am glad my video helped you. Take care and God bless

@@leecraftsmen5702 It absolutely has, I'll be going through all of this stuff in the coming weeks, much appreciated :) Easy cruisin' sir

I am glad it helps you. Take care, Lee

Hello, The speakers are visible up until I turn the pc over. They are located on the bottom curved edge. They are enclosed in a plastic case.The 2 rectangle shapes below the battery. You can see the screws as well. The daughter card @ 9:07 is where the cable attaches. Hope that helps and thanks for watching.

You are welcome! I am glad my video was helpful.

What is the specifications of the LCD?

Thanks for watching. Let me know if you want help. Lee

Thanks

I think those are 5. Use the largest one that fits. Here is what I use www.homedepot.com/p/Husky-8-in-1-Precision-Torx-Screwdriver-Set-70381H/204664390?mtc=SHOPPING-BF-CDP-BNG-D25T-025_001_HAND_TOOLS-NA-NA-NA-PLALIA-NA-NA-NA-NA-NBR-NA-NA-NA-HandTools_2023&cm_mmc=SHOPPING-BF-CDP-BNG-D25T-025_001_HAND_TOOLS-NA-NA-NA-PLALIA-NA-NA-NA-NA-NBR-NA-NA-NA-HandTools_2023-71700000106432956-58700008273440511-92700075147672188&msclkid=772692b7b7ff1269e04ff650705d5666&gclsrc=ds

Thank you for the wonderful comment! 🥰

Sorry I don't remember. Thanks for watching

I hope you find what you are looking for . Thanks for watching.

@@leecraftsmen5702 just giving some advice for people new to doing their own maintenance. Ive done it a few times but haven't had a laptop in a minute so needed a little refresher. This works for me but judging by comments it's hard for others to see what's all going on :)

For example battery should be the first to disconnect and remove after the casing

Appreciate such a quick response though!

Thanks for your input.

I hope it has helped you and others to use Fusion 360. Thanks for watching!

@@leecraftsmen5702 I am waiting on my first cnc router and my main goal is to attempt to make an electric guitar. Your videos have been a very good resource for me. I am a Fusion user already, but I've already learned some great insights in using more effectively with your videos.

@@brettdelia Very cool. I hope you can send some pictures of the progress.

If it is completely dead, no lights no beeps, it is most likely a mother board issue. Try to remove the memory dimms and see if it will beep.

When you said disconnect the battery. Try to disconnect the primary battery and the coin cell "cmos" battery for about 30 seconds.

My bad. This model has no coin cell battery.

@@leecraftsmen5702 will give that a try

Go to 2:30 Msata HDD (SSD). There is no 2.5 inch hard drive on this model. Only the Msata Hard Drive. Hope that helps. Thanks for watching

@Lee Craftsmen Thanks Lee.

@@bowman195 You are welcome.😁

I think those were #1. Some of the newer models use #0 and even #00. Just use the biggest blade that will fit the slot. Too small is not good. I used this tool: "8-in-1 Precision Slotted and Philips Screwdriver" from Home Depot www.homedepot.com/p/Husky-8-in-1-Precision-Slotted-and-Philips-Screwdriver-71281H/302735272 . You can also buy this as a torx set. Some times it takes a lot of downward pressure and tiny off and on twisting motion's to break it free. If it starts to strip the head, STOP! In that case I switch to a torx bit ( star ) and try the same motion. If all goes badly then the last option is use a small drill and remove the head completely. Then use vise grips to remove the screw after remove the part. Hope that helps. Thanks for watching.

Can confirm #1

Different sizes too!😁

You're very welcome! Let me know if you need help. Lee

@@leecraftsmen5702 actually, I could use some help! My design is a single cut LP style(sort of), and I’m having some trouble from the waist to the upper bout. You wanna take a look at it? I’ll send you the file!

Please email LeeCraftsmen@gmail.com I can look over your shoulder with team viewer if you want.

Hi Luis, Maybe I can help?

Hello Paul, Thanks for watching my video. This is a very important command. It is called "Project". The path is available in the sketch environment. Meaning you must be creating or editing a sketch to have the menu. The Path is SKETCH, CREATE, PROJECT/INCLUDE, PROJECT. Or just press the "P" key on the keyboard. Hope that Helps. Lee

To be more correct, "Projecting" does not connect the two Sketches. It duplicates in perfect alignment ( straight up or straight down) between two work planes. As I tried to explain at the start of this video. I am drawing on the bottom most work plan ( back of the guitar) and then projecting straight up from the back of the guitar. This way fits my mind set. You will certainly have moments in your thinking were you might think, " hey , I could do that a better way." and you should. :)

@@leecraftsmen5702 thanks so much. You will certainly have moments when you think, "Hey, I could do better than that," and you should :) No, I certainly don't think that. Your work is a great help to me. I just started Fusion 360 a week ago. I'm taking advantage of an extended sick leave to get up to speed. I normally build acoustic guitars without CNC. I would like to try cnc milling a soundboard of an arch top guitar and then compare them to the hand planed ones.

@@pauldettau1464 I would think the cnc will make them perfect in every way. But maybe not as satisfying. Merry Christmas Paul

@@leecraftsmen5702 :) I am sure. Merry christmas from the other end of the earth.

All the screws are normally about the same torque. Press down with a little force while turning and try a new #0 or #00 screw driver. Also try tapping down on the screw driver with something while you try to remove the screw. I have used a small torx bit on nearly striped screws with success. Sometimes a "joker" in manufacturing puts glue on the screws. I have only seen it a few times though. Thanks for watching and God bless you. Lee

@@leecraftsmen5702 Thank you very much for taking the time to answer me, I am so grateful that you made the video, it is of great help to me, it is the only one I found on RUclips, blessings.

You are welcome. Thanks!

You are welcome Philip. Let me know if you need help. Thanks for watching......Lee

You are very welcome. I was not able to find a simple video, so I figured it out. I am glad it helps you. Take care......... Lee

Thank you very much! Let me know if you have any questions.

You are welcome Alan. Let me know if you have questions.

I put the studs in at scale length minus .415 inches. Then use the floydRose original routing diagram. Hope that helps. Take care

Some builders say the studs at 25" on a 25.5 scale works just fine. I think FloydRose says 25.125" on a 25.5 scale.

I use a 25" scale. 25 - .415 = 24.585" from nut to bridge posts.

@@leecraftsmen5702 I think i understand you lol, i will send you a picture just to make sure lol, thank you again Lee!

@@hatespirit Maybe you can understand it better this way. You asked, "up to how deep in the bridge should the scale be?" The depth is .415 of an inch, but you measure from the stud holes, not the edge of the bridge. So, decide on the scale you want to use. For example 25.5 inches. Subtract .415 of an inch. You get 25.085 inches. Measure from the nut 25.085 inches. Place the stud holes there. Some builders use .5 of in inch instead of ..415. They say it works fine. It dose not need to be exactly .415.

Cool, I was wondering how things were going with you. If you got a body milled?

@@leecraftsmen5702 I am rebuilding the whole design from scratch, as the sketch was not centered, i thought it was but then after making a few necks and that they all showed some weird things like the contour you know we did it in 2 steps, top side first and then back side, well, the contour was off by a little every time, i thought i was placing it incorrectly on my fixture, so i filled in the holes, made them again and made another neck, same thing so i tried a last time, same thing. I used my calipers and took some measurements on the neck, found out the truss rod cavity was a little off center, i went back to my design and foudn indeed it was off center and somehow i had this on a center line that was not centered. So yeah, I'm starting from scratch and trying to get a better design. I designed a V shaped guitar but i still don't have the wood for that one and still can't decide if it will be a flat headstock or angled one... other than that, i'm good! lol

Glad to hear from you!

Any flex at all in the cnc will create an offset. If I ever build another CNC I will use much bigger rails and guides. I mill all my parts from the back first. I try to avoid any contour cuts from the back. Any cuts that go from the top all the way to the back are done from the top. If that makes since?

Even still there is a lot of shaping and sanding after the cnc work.

Hey Corey, Sorry but that is outside of the scope of work that I do. I think it is a rare event to have a bad chip. Usually only a bios flash is needed. If you are locked out of the bios, I have read that replacing the chip won't help. Most pcb's have writing on them stating what component is soldered in any given spot. But I have no personal experience in replacing a bios chip. Best look for someone with experience for advise. Thanks for watching, Lee

@@leecraftsmen5702 thanks so much!

Thank you for the comment. Also, if your machine is not very rigid, you will have alignment issues. The torque will pull and push your bearing blocks out of perfect alignment. So having a perfect setup is only half the battle.

Yes, use a small flat screw driver. Part of the cable connector looks like a black plastic tab. It is in the center of the metal part that is soldered to the mobo. You can pry and leverage on that tab as you keep small tension on the wires.

As you can see it took me some effort to slide that connector out too. It is not an easy one.

@@leecraftsmen5702 thank you so much!!!

Aloha! My CNC is 3 axis and there is an assembly video on my site. As for the head stock and neck ( if you have a break angle ), most manufacturer's use 3 axis mills and then make jigs to support the work at a 90 degree angle to the cutter. What I do for the head stock and heal ( if there is a neck break angle ) is mill to the outside edge then sand it to the correct angle using a oscillating spindle sander. The tuner holes are cut under sized, to fit a .375 forstner bit, into the head veneer. The head veneer is cut a little oversized and then glued to the head. Then I use the holes in the head veneer to pilot the 3/8 forstner thru the head. Then I ream the tuner holes to size by drilling them with the correct size twist drill. I run the drill motor backwards and enter the holes from both sides to reduce tear out. Maybe I will do a video on this. Regards Lee

If you are not using a head veneer, cut one out and us it as a template.

@@leecraftsmen5702 Gotcha!!!!! this is going to be my first big project, I have just recently purchased a cnc machine and it's been a long learning curve, from assembling the machine to (figure out) find tuning it. Then trying Aspire, Rhinoceros and finally Fusion 360, all these happening from early March in this year, so is not a lot of time i've had to do anything really. I tried making a Telecaster neck out of a pine scrap piece i had with a design I made in Aspire, it was pretty good but not what I really wanted and there is just not much information about designing with Aspire if its not a paid tutorial (whichi wouldnt mind paying for if I had the money for it lol) I'm so glad i found your channel, I will let you know how it goes!

Another thing I should vlog is wood prep. All your wood should be cut oversized then allowed to move for about a week or so. The neck wood should be cut over sized at least 2 times, and set to rest for at least 2 weeks in between reducing the size, before the final cnc work. You need to leave extra stock on your blanks so that you can cut out the twist's, cups and bow's that will happen when the ruff milling releases the stress in the tree.

Also, if you can cut your wood to quarter sawn, for the neck, the grain should run straight down from fret board to heel.

You are very welcome. Anytime. Some times just reversing the loft direction is all it takes. Also if the curve of the heel exceeds tangent to the sides of the heel, the loft will fail. The extended splitting surface must exit the body to be split totally and can not wrap back into it. The intention of these videos is to show one way to think about Fusion 360. Fusion 360 is very powerful and can be used differently, according to the way one thinks about it. Even my way of doing things changes all the time as I learn more. Thanks for the comments. I'm glad someone is learning. Regards, Lee P.S. Check out zebra analysis.

Also, my bodies changed from grey to purple, i don't know if that could be the issue as well, and i don't know how or when they changed to purple :(

yes. first try to select them in a different order. make sure chaining is off. some times two or more of the sketches on different planes are not touching. some times there are options, in the warning fly out, showing the issue.

also check for any very tiny radius that did not get selected. You can email me the design and I will find the issue. LeeCraftsmen@gmail.com

Scroll in very close and look for tiny segments

@@leecraftsmen5702 Thank you so much Lee!! I am doing same design you are doing in the tutorial, so that i could follow exactly, i am now looking for that tiny gap there might be around, I will let you know if i found it lol

Thanks for the kind comment. Let me know if you need help. Lee