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Foxi's Retrofitting
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Добавлен 14 май 2020
Fixing a Honda Accord Window Switch That Wont Work
In this video Foxi shows how to take apart, clean, and fix a Honda window switch that either doesn't work or has issues. This particular switch is from a '94 to '97 Honda Accord and had issues with the passenger side front and rear windows able to roll down but not back up. This procedure applies to other Hondas as well as other brands of vehicles with similar designs as well.
If this video helped you consider donating to us at the links below to help us produce more helpful content:
Our Kofi:
ko-fi.com/potardocomrades
Our Throne Gifts Wishlist:
throne.com/potardo
If this video helped you consider donating to us at the links below to help us produce more helpful content:
Our Kofi:
ko-fi.com/potardocomrades
Our Throne Gifts Wishlist:
throne.com/potardo
Просмотров: 369
Видео
How to Remove the Dashboard on 1992-95 Honda Civic
Просмотров 3,8 тыс.Год назад
In this video Midnight and Foxi show how to remove the dashboard and SRS airbag system in a 1992-1995 Honda Civic. This model is an EX with extra options so we show how to remove those as well. We are having to remove the dashboard to clean, repair rust, inspect wiring, and find a water leak coming from the driver's side. If this video helped you consider donating to us at the links below to he...
Bypassing 1994 Accord's ELD System and Fixing the Damage the System Caused
Просмотров 2,2 тыс.Год назад
When my ELD (Electronic Load Detection) system failed it took the ECU out with it. This video will show how to bypass the ELD system and how to repair the damage that was caused to the ECU. Pease note when I say "Ultra Farad" I meant Micro Farad. I do not know where I got Ultra from. Maybe my brain saw the uf on the capacitor and filled in "Ultra". If this video helped you consider donating to ...
How to Remove the Air Bags in a 1992-95 Honda Civic
Просмотров 1,1 тыс.Год назад
This video will show you how to remove the driver and passenger side airbags in a '92-95 Honda Civic without having to remove the dashboard. This is a 94-95 EX model so it has both airbags. This is being done to ours since we are already going to remove the dash to do some repairs. If this video helped you consider donating to us at the links below to help us produce more helpful content: Our K...
Removing a '96-2000 Honda Civic Auto Transmission on the Ground
Просмотров 4,4 тыс.Год назад
In this video the automatic transmission in the 2000 Civic is being removed for use in our 1998 Civic. This is as real as it gets being on the dirt outside without a garage or concrete. The handy safety tip for doing this is to use rims with wooden blocks to hold the car in the air. Regular safety stands don't like dirt and grass and will slip or sink. Put the handbrake on and block the rear wh...
Stripping the interior on Ember our 1994 Honda Civic
Просмотров 254Год назад
In this video Midnight and Foxi strip the interior out of Ember, Midnight's 1994 EJ Civic. If this video helped you consider donating to us at the links below to help us produce more helpful content: Our Kofi: ko-fi.com/potardocomrades Our Throne Gifts Wishlist: throne.com/potardo
How & Why to Convert Honda Valve Cover Bolts to Studs
Просмотров 5 тыс.Год назад
This video is about fixing a common issue by converting from valve cover bolts to valve cover studs on older Hondas. In this video a stud and nut is made for Foxi's 1994 Accord Wagon. If this video helped you consider donating to us at the links below to help us produce more helpful content: Our Kofi: ko-fi.com/potardocomrades Our Throne Gifts Wishlist: throne.com/potardo
Making a Battery Hold Down & Fitting a Civic Battery in My Accord
Просмотров 235Год назад
Foxi makes a custom battery hold down using a 3d printed strap and some hardware to securely install a 51R Civic battery into the Accord Wagon. This is the first 3d printed part to be installed for testing on the Wagon! 3d Printable Battery Hold Down for 51 & 51R Battery: www.thingiverse.com/thing:163879 All thread rod that was used: M6-1.0 x 250mm long If this video helped you consider donatin...
Removing & Servicing the Battery Tray on my 1994 Honda Accord
Просмотров 565Год назад
In this video Foxi removes, de-corrodes, and seals the wagon's battery tray along with creating a new plastic insert that was missing. This will do good enough to get by until a new 100% custom tray can be made. If this video helped you consider donating to us at the links below to help us produce more helpful content: Our Kofi: ko-fi.com/potardocomrades Our Throne Gifts Wishlist: throne.com/po...
Fixing A Hatch Open Indicator Light That Stays On '94-97 Honda Accord Wagons
Просмотров 303Год назад
My hatch/trunk open light has been stuck on since I got my wagon back in 2019. After replacing the latch assembly and fixing the electric lock the light still hasn't went off. In this video I show what I did to turn that light off. If this video helped you consider donating to us at the links below to help us produce more helpful content: Our Kofi: ko-fi.com/potardocomrades Our Throne Gifts Wis...
Honda Accord Vtec Pressure Switch Pinout & Wiring
Просмотров 12 тыс.Год назад
Honda Accord Vtec Pressure Switch Pinout & Wiring
How to Remove and Repair the Deck on a Craftsman II Lawn Mower
Просмотров 309Год назад
How to Remove and Repair the Deck on a Craftsman II Lawn Mower
Why My ECU Was Bad & Throwing A Code 9
Просмотров 4,4 тыс.2 года назад
Why My ECU Was Bad & Throwing A Code 9
1986 Craftsman II Upgrades and Custom Deck Guard
Просмотров 672 года назад
1986 Craftsman II Upgrades and Custom Deck Guard
1986 Craftsman II Briggs Intek Engine Swap
Просмотров 2202 года назад
1986 Craftsman II Briggs Intek Engine Swap
Taking a look at Pentius & Philtop Oil Filters
Просмотров 9572 года назад
Taking a look at Pentius & Philtop Oil Filters
BEWARE of Remanufactured Distributors (it was missing the rotor screw hole)
Просмотров 1422 года назад
BEWARE of Remanufactured Distributors (it was missing the rotor screw hole)
How to Install a D16Y7 Head on D16Z6 (1992-95 Honda Civic)
Просмотров 2,3 тыс.2 года назад
How to Install a D16Y7 Head on D16Z6 (1992-95 Honda Civic)
How to Wire Vtec in 1994-95 Honda Accord
Просмотров 7 тыс.2 года назад
How to Wire Vtec in 1994-95 Honda Accord
How to Relocate External Ignition Coil on 1994-97 Honda Accord
Просмотров 7 тыс.2 года назад
How to Relocate External Ignition Coil on 1994-97 Honda Accord
IT LIVES! First Start After Vtec Head Swap on my Accord Wagon
Просмотров 6432 года назад
IT LIVES! First Start After Vtec Head Swap on my Accord Wagon
Replacing Front Balancer Shaft Seal on my 1994 Accord
Просмотров 4,3 тыс.2 года назад
Replacing Front Balancer Shaft Seal on my 1994 Accord
Changing the Thermostat and Housing Gaskets on my 1994 Accord Wagon
Просмотров 1,1 тыс.2 года назад
Changing the Thermostat and Housing Gaskets on my 1994 Accord Wagon
How to Relocate the Fuel Filter on 1994-97 Honda Accords
Просмотров 3,1 тыс.2 года назад
How to Relocate the Fuel Filter on 1994-97 Honda Accords
Washing and reinstalling the intake manifold and water pipe on my Honda Accord Wagon
Просмотров 2,7 тыс.2 года назад
Washing and reinstalling the intake manifold and water pipe on my Honda Accord Wagon
Replacing the Rear Motor Mount on my 1994 Accord Wagon
Просмотров 2,7 тыс.2 года назад
Replacing the Rear Motor Mount on my 1994 Accord Wagon
Replacing the Oil Pressure Switch on my 1994 Honda Accord Wagon
Просмотров 4,4 тыс.2 года назад
Replacing the Oil Pressure Switch on my 1994 Honda Accord Wagon
How to Adapt Breathers or Vacuum Hose Sizes
Просмотров 672 года назад
How to Adapt Breathers or Vacuum Hose Sizes
Installing the new Vtec Engine Head on my Accord Wagon
Просмотров 2742 года назад
Installing the new Vtec Engine Head on my Accord Wagon
How to Remove a Stuck F22 Balancer Shaft Bolt
Просмотров 3952 года назад
How to Remove a Stuck F22 Balancer Shaft Bolt
Cuándo el carro se calienta pero el radiador está nuevo a qué se debe que suba la temperatura
It should still rise to an operating temperature but not overheat. You should see the temperature change due to the thermostat opening when the car is warmed up if it's working normally. If it's overheating your radiator cap could be faulty. If it's not the cap then it could be the fan as it may not be turning on. The most common causes of this on older Hondas is the coolant temp sensors. These sensors tell the fan to come on when it is needed to keep the radiator and coolant at an acceptable temp. The most common one to go out is the one on the front passenger side of the engine near the distributor but facing the front of the car. If you need to get by without replacing it you can jump the switch with a wire and it should turn the fan on so it's on all the time. You could also run the fan directly to a switch if needed. If it's not the radiator cap or a temperature sensor make sure to check all of your hoses and if you need to check your thermostat. Worst case it could be a head gasket failure but if it was you'd be experiencing more problems than just an overheating condition such as water in the oil, oil in the coolant, steam coming out the exhaust, or smelling antifreeze from the exhaust pipe.
I'm pretty sure μF is micro farads. Pretty common to see capacitance measured in mili, micro, nano, and pico units. A whole farad is a lot for most applications.
Thank you for pointing this out. You are absolutely correct and now I have to find a find a method of fixing this video with correct terms. I do not know how I managed to mess that up. In the future I know the correct terms to use.
@@foxisretrofitting4556 This is probably sufficient. Trying to order one will be the first tip off. You've pinned the correct unit now so you should be good!
Do someone knows if the temp/fuel gauges of 5th and 6th gen are compatibles? Mine 5th gen is broken..
I'll have to look into that. I doubt it would just work as a direct transplant. If I had to take a guesses I'd say: 1. The fuel gauge is going to be the wrong application and read wrong even if it did physically fit due to 5th and 6th gen having different gas tanks and fuel pump hanger assemblies/float arms. Most likely set up for different resistance. 2. The temp gauge is most likely the same application electronically since Honda Civics have used the same coolant temp gauge sensor 1988-2000. If the temp gauge is made similarly and you could screw it into the gauge face and the cluster housing I would guess it would work technically. I don't know how accurate the face would be though.
oooh, you should come help me! 😂
Do u know where i can get that 820 resisor at asap
Got mine here: www.ebay.com/itm/163634336012?var=463826521634
If you need to be quick and dirty with stuff that you might be able to find local I've seen a guy on a forum use a 1K and a 4.7K resistors in parallel (take both and hook them in side by side in the connector) to get by temporarily until he got the 820. Your car basically looks for a set amount of resistance and if that resistance is met it turns the eld circuit off running the alternator normally.
This exact thing happened to me. Will the 820 resister work 4 now any suggestions on other damage do I need to fix board to get far to start right now
You will want to check the ecu and see if it's damaged like this. If you're lucky it's just the resistor that needs changing and damage to the board is minimal. If you are like me and it's this bad you'll need to do a repair like this. The car wont run without that fixed.
Nice🎉
i have a 94 civic. it has a Dual AC pressure switch (detects high and low pressure). is there a way to bench test the pressure switch with a vacuum pump/gauge? the service manual doesnt have any specs for bench testing the switch.
I'm not an AC specialist so I'm not too sure but back when I tested my '94 Accord to confirm the compressor was bad I jumped the pressure switch. I made sure the system was charged with refrigerant and then swapped out the compressor clutch relay and then jumped the ac pressure switch with a paper clip. With the switches jumped and the car running the compressor should be on all the time. My compressor clutch worked but my compressor was toast. On the extreme side I've heard of people hot wiring the clutch to test it as well. If you swap out the compressor clutch relay and you get nothing then jump the pressure switch. If still nothing check the wiring coming from the compressor clutch for obvious damage. I've seen the connectors get abused by heat and fluids. If it just doesn't work then you may need a new compressor. As a side not it's rare for the expansion valves to go out on Hondas in the past but these cars are aged now. I think that's all I can think of. More info from 1992 Honda Service www.mediafire.com/file/v6zpg58g5x8enwm/92-95_Honda_Civic_Repair_Manual.pdf/file I think you'll get more info from this Accord manual since it actually has the pressure specs on the pressure switch and how it functions listed in the AC section www.mediafire.com/file/mqb7g1a66gy91z1/Honda_Accord_1994_-_1997_Service_Manual.pdf/file I know every little bit helps. Hopefully there's something here that will help. Alternate 94-97 Accord Manual that will have anything that the other one is missing www.mediafire.com/file/b1f44ldqkmyazql/94-97_Accord_Coupe_Service_Manual.pdf/file
Wow to the naked eye the f cylinder is much bigger than d series
Es igual que el honda Civic 1999
Yes it is. Sí :)
The side stopper plastic flex is so hard 4:36
For sure.
Helped me a lot! I was searching how remove the top vent on the dashboard. Thanks!
Link to where you got the studs?
www.ebay.com/itm/294278866576?var=592929154751
I know I'm late to the video, but I'm trying to do this exact job on my '95 Accord Wagon and NO ONE has documentation on how to remove the rear seats. And those who do only explain how to remove the lower cushion and get stuck removing the back rests. Also no explanation on how to remove the the upper side bolster(s). Do you perchance remember how to remove the rear seats?? Thank you in advance.
I'll have to make a video on it sometime. Recalling from memory the backs of the seats can be removed like this: pull up on the releases to unlock them and flip them down like you would if you were carrying cargo. When they are flipped down look at the middle where both seat backs meet eachother. There’s hinges with 10mm bolts in them hiding under the backing panels that are pinned to the seat backs with trim clips. There are also hinges on the sides held with 10mm as well. One side comes off before the other one if memory serves. Extras: You don’t have to but you can remove the side cushions nearest the doors with a 10mm holding cushion hooks at the bottom and then lift up on the cushion to unhook it from the unibody. All the other trims and storage area panels are held in with 10mm bolts and push in trim clips if you ever need to remove them. All the trim up top that wraps around the rear is all clip in, 10mm, and phillips head screwdriver. Quick tip: if you ever have to replace your rear struts you can unclip and move the carpet out of the way enough to reach in and get to the nuts on top of the struts. Hope this helps. Let me know if you need more assistance.
@@foxisretrofitting4556 Thank you so much! Hopefully I'll get to it on Tuesday or Wednesday since the heat index is so outrageous. But I'll definitely report back with my results. Thank you, truly. 🙏
@@konman10000 No problem! Stay safe and hydrated. They called for 104F where I am today.
@@foxisretrofitting4556 Finally got a good day to do it and got everything out! First you pull out the 10mm near the center of the bottom cushion and remove the seat. Then you remove the 10mm for each of the side bolsters and unclip them by pulling them up and out(mine were stubborn as hell but eventually they popped out). That exposes the left and right hinges of the back rests. Each of those hinges have two 10mm bolts holding the back rests in. Once those 4 bolts are removed the final bolt is a 12mm in between the two seat backs that bolts the rear passenger seat to the rear driver seat. Everything slides apart and out of the way letting you get access to the final two 10mm bolts that hold the panel above the fuel level float access and the area that needs to be cut for fuel pump access. Thank you so much for sending me in the right direction! Now it's time to play with the grinder. 😅
@@konman10000 Awesome! Glad to see I could help. Let me know how the cutting goes. I using a thinner disc makes things go faster and more precise, at least for me.
Hey Foxi how's your family doing?
We're hangin' in there.
@@foxisretrofitting4556 good. Thought I'd say hey
Need some help with a swap i did im my 92 lx
Sure man. I'm here to help what's going on?
Same issue. I replaced the VSS sensor and it worked off and on. Then I checked the connector and found that it was not fully seated and locked in. Sprayed the pins with carb cleaner and plugged it in and it worked fine thereafter.
Does it matter which way the 820 capacitors gos?
For the 820 ohm resistor it doesn't matter and can be installed in either direction to bypass the ELD. For replacing the capacitors inside the Engine computer if you ever need to they have a stripe on one side which indicates the negative side which you install pointing to the white stripe on the board.
you sure help me a lot thank you very very much
What happened to the rest of the installation?
Hardest part is the removal hence why I did this video specifically. Installation is doing the same steps in reverse. I got rushed to install this transmission into the other car so I wasn't able to record it. The main things to pay attention to during installation is when you put your torque converter back in the transmission spin it until it clunks all the way in. You can use a jack under the transmission to support and help line up the transmission to the engine. When I rebuilt the engine from this white Civic I'll try and do an install video but that's going to be quite a while.
Its possible to remove that plastic around the radio ?
Yes. The 6th picture on this page highlights where the screws are: honda-tech.com/forums/honda-civic-del-sol-1992-2000-1/diy-eg-dash-trim-piece-removal-replacement-2650407/ there's 9 screws that hold it from the backside. That page has highlights showing locations of the screws. I think you can get to these with a stubby phillips head screwdriver.
Mine started to miss on cold start for a couple seconds code 9 came up. Dizzy was already new yr ago so I just warranty it out. Week later same issue code 9 at first crank. I was thinking ecu now Ima definitely order 1
Makes sense. I'd also check and clean the wiring harness connectors that go to the distributor just in case if you haven't already. With our Hondas aging I started ordering replacement capacitors off of mouser's site and have been replacing the capacitors in the computers for peace of mind. Simple to do with a cheap Ebay adjustable soldering iron, flux, a bottle of rubbing alcohol, qtips, and some solder. Any used computer I would absolutely do this to. The Transmission computers for the Accords on the other hand are a bit thicker than the engine computers and I'm doing some tests to relocate the capacitors to a daughter board. I'll post my results soon.
also was wondering, is this the k22b2 motor with the k22b1 vtec head ?
The head is from a F22B1 bolted to a F22B2 intake, exhaust, and engine block.
those that dash overlay go underneath the plastic on the speedo or does it go over it ? was going to get a carbon fiber one but i don’t want to take the speedometer out because i don’t want to break my 30 year old plastic. but sick vid
You push some clips and the clear plastic separates from the white backing plastic. The plastic I painted blue can be taken out without removing the gauges from the unit itsself.
I removed mines and when I put back the fuel gauge and temp gauge Go past full and hot. Any ideas?
I have code P0500 for wheel speed sensor could that be the cause for my speedo not working
Yes absolutely. That code would indicate a bad speed sensor on the top rear of the transmission. When you replace it make sure you get one that matches your transmission. (automatic or manual) A cheap Junkyard, Ebay, or Rockauto one will work.
Thanks bro, good info in there.
gotta specify on what engine and heads. b series all have that orifice
That information is in this short's description. My video that this clip is from is on an Accord's F22. It was an F22B2 non vtec engine but I swapped out the head for a F22B1 vtec engine head and added the wiring and vtec ecu. All documented and filmed on my channel.
Let me ask you a question, I have a 95 coupe that has an air bag on the right hand side of the dashboard, above the glove box area and I also got 92 hatch which I thought of getting the dash of and put in the coupe, but I found is that the 92 hatch doesn’t have that airbag thing. Now my question is do you think it’ll fit well or will have problems with it there?
The dashes will fit the same physically to the car. Only differences will be certain controls based on trim and the airbags. You should be good.
Does this go for b series
For B series vtec and non vtec models run limiters to equalize the pressure between the bottom end and the head. D and F series don't need them when going to a Vtec head due to the control orifaces being in the engine heads. B series on the other hand does not have a oil control oriface in the head so you keep the one in the block.
Very well explained video. I’m get started soon with my project removing the dash from 92 hatch and putting it in to my 95 coupe. This will help a lot. Thank you young lady..
Omgish thank u soon much for this video
No problem! Glad to see it helped.
Nice information for the builders
How do I get to it with out taking stuff apart?
Lift the front drivers side of the Accord and put it on a stand. Even better if you can lift both driver and passenger side front but you don't have to do both. Crawl up under the middle of the engine so you can look up and see in between the engine and firewall of the car. You can reach up and unplug the Oil pressure switch with your hand. To remove the oil pressure switch you can use the appropriate size socket and a ratchet. You may have an advantage using a flexhead ratchet for this. Using a 3 inch extension may help as well. If you put the socket onto it first you can reach up and put the ratchet or extension onto it. It helps if you do this when you do an oil and filter change that way the oil filter isn't in your way but it's not necessary. If you find that there's support brackets in your way you can remove them with a 12mm socket to get them out of your way. In a previous video I showed that the wiring harness plastic under the bottom could be removed with a 10mm socket if needed. It is very important that you do not overtighten this as it can strip or even crack the casting of the engine. The rtv gasket like I used in the video will help seal it so if you are doing it by hand when it gets snug you can stop.
@@foxisretrofitting4556 thank you
Thats great! Hi from Brasil, i have my civic 1995 EG Hatch. Great content! 😄
Thank you so much! 😀
Hi, thanks for showing this. My issue is my glove box is locked and the plastic latch is broken so I can’t open the glove box. I bought a new latch mechanism to replace it. How do I open the glove box through the broken latch so I can open the glove box and remove the mechanism?
That's a rough one.. I want to try and help you get it open with out risk of damaging the glovebox. Can you post a brief video or pictures of what's broken and what's left? Depending on how it's broken you may be able to slide something through the broken latch or the crack in the top of the glove box door to fish it open.
@@foxisretrofitting4556 No prob. Thanks for the reply. I got it opened going underneath the broken latch using a mini flathead and was able to find and press the lock button and push it down to release. Worked! Thank God. Hopefully that helps anyone else. No vid tho lol
@@joeyjonz1 That's great news! I'm glad to hear you got it open. We may have to do some videos sometime on getting Civic and Accord glove boxes open if a part fails.
Nice!
Gah I'll try it tomorrow I've been struggling for 3hours trying to get it to budge
They can be quite difficult.
My drain bolt was stuck...I used my floor jack to lift the ratchet...broke the ratchet but got the drain bolt off. Craftsman replaced the ratchet.
Happy to see you got that off. Shame it took a ratchet with it but it's good to know Craftsman still does replacements.
Craftman is owned by BLACK & DECKER@@foxisretrofitting4556
Hello bro, thank you for your efforts and hard working, i have accord 2002 and the vtec is not connected at all, and im suffering to know how can i connect it, any chance you teach me please, i’d be more than thankful!!
Thanks for reaching out! To be sure I get my information correct I have to ask a few things. Does your 2002 have a 4 cylinder like the one in this video or a v6? Do you have an automatic or manual transmission? Is it a US, European, or JDM model? What trim is it like DX, LX, EX? If it is a true 2002, with a 2.3 4 cylinder engine, US model, and it is using the factory ecu for a vtec model then this diagram is what you will be looking for: allpinouts.org/pinouts/connectors/car/1998-2002-honda-accord-ecu/ Backup diagram for if the first one goes offline: www.innovatemotorsports.com/wp/content/uploads/2022/05/Honda-Accord-1998-2002.pdf ECU Connector B: pin12 is for the vtec solenoid valve and ECU Connector C: Pin 10 is for the vtec pressure switch. The process of running the wiring is similar to the way I did in my 1994. I show the process here: ruclips.net/video/1k8HDyyyF6k/видео.html Keep in mind your ecu pins will be different than mine in the video (the pins listed above are correct for your application) and your ECU will most likely be located under the center of your dash below the radio. It is held in by 2 bolts and is accessible from the drivers side. I look forward to your reply and will do my best to help get everything wired up.
Hello at 16 57 how u remove the part where u placed ur right hand?that "cover"
This page nails it down: honda-tech.com/forums/honda-civic-del-sol-1992-2000-1/diy-eg-dash-trim-piece-removal-replacement-2650407/ there's 9 screws that hold it from the backside. That page has highlights showing locations of the screws.
Good helpful video. That music in background tho. 😂🤦🏻♂
Thanks! Glad it was helpful. With the music, yeahhhh... At the time it was better than the cartoons my wife was watching in the background coupled with me making silly noises as I worked on the switch 😆
@@foxisretrofitting4556. Yeah get it. Good video nonetheless.
i did this and now my speed shows almost 10 mph higher than i’m actually going, any ideas?
It can take a couple tries to get the needle on in the correct spot. You have to line it up carefully and depending on your luck you may have to put the needle on with the ignition on and the back of the gauges hooked up. If you are using a different size tire or rims other than the stock steel ones it can have an effect too. This gauge in the video read correctly when I put it back in but now that we are running alloy rims on it it reads slightly higher. About 3-5 mph. Although I'd rather it read higher than lower and cause an unnecessary speeding ticket. I could correct that but I don't want to risk damaging anything since these are fragile and it doesn't really bother me so I just let it ride.
It just means it got faster.
Aku sangat mencintai cewek yang suka bongkar mobil, terlihat anggun😊
Yeah she is cute that's for sure 🙂
OMG!!! How about a Wix inline filter and call it a day!!
So you swap heads to get Vtec ? Is it also possible with the d16w 1/2 non Vtec and convert to Vtec ?
You can usually just swap the non vtec head for a vtec one and swap the engine computer out for a vtec one to be able to use. You may also have to add 2 wires to your computer harness depending on your region, one for the vtec solenoid and the other for the vtec pressure sensor. Some models like the Japanese market cars don't have a vtec pressure switch and just have a solenoid so then you only need to add one wire.
@@foxisretrofitting4556 thank you for the nice answer helps a lot 🤝🏼
@@foxisretrofitting4556 by engine computer do you mean the ecu ?
@@elisabethnavarro1739 Yes. The "Engine Control Module". In models like the automatic transmission 91-95 Accords there is 2 computers: One for the the engine "ECU" and one for the transmission "TCM" (transmission control module). In Civics of the same era they use 1 computer that controls both the engine and transmission. This is technically called a "PCM" (powertrain control module) but most of us just call it an ECU to make it simpler since there's only one computer in those cases. When they went from OBD1 computer generation to OBD2 in 1996 they changed Accords to having that single "PCM" to control both the engine and transmission in one unit.
Bett
Thank you so much I got a wagon that works great 55k miles got from original owner and wanting to lower it and getting ready to add new parts
That's awesome! Let me know if you need any wagon information. One thing that took me a couple years to find that I thought was neat is there's actually a labeled factory hitch wiring harness plug that is in the spare "trunk" area.
Hey how did u like the mini a.f. on valve cover does it preform better with it? Lmk
It's got it's pros and cons. The positive things it does is it will keep your throttle body and intake from getting nasty over time with oil vapors and will prevent carbon build up. If you like the look it does look pretty neat. If you are just driving to work and back or just around town it does just fine with the little breather equipped. The negatives are you do have to clean around it time to time due to the vapor build up on the valve cover. If you drive highways or in high rpm ranges depending on your mileage and amount of blowby it will STINK. I wound up reconnecting my valve cover to my intake air cleaner because for a while I was highway driving and it was very noticeable. Observing actual performance of the Accord during use it doesn't seem to change performance at all either way you prefer. Doesn't hurt to give it try and see how you like it though. I converted my 1979 Chevy Van over to a valve cover breather years back and it was about the same experience except I didn't get as much stink from the breather due to how air circulates around the body. I feel like exactly where the breather is on the Accord and my mileage is why it can get stinky. I haven't had that same experience on Civics though. I haven't had a Civic stink from one yet. Makes sense since the civics' ports are facing straight back toward the firewall where the Accord is facing straight up.