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It should still rise to an operating temperature but not overheat. You should see the temperature change due to the thermostat opening when the car is warmed up if it's working normally. If it's overheating your radiator cap could be faulty. If it's not the cap then it could be the fan as it may not be turning on. The most common causes of this on older Hondas is the coolant temp sensors. These sensors tell the fan to come on when it is needed to keep the radiator and coolant at an acceptable temp. The most common one to go out is the one on the front passenger side of the engine near the distributor but facing the front of the car. If you need to get by without replacing it you can jump the switch with a wire and it should turn the fan on so it's on all the time. You could also run the fan directly to a switch if needed. If it's not the radiator cap or a temperature sensor make sure to check all of your hoses and if you need to check your thermostat. Worst case it could be a head gasket failure but if it was you'd be experiencing more problems than just an overheating condition such as water in the oil, oil in the coolant, steam coming out the exhaust, or smelling antifreeze from the exhaust pipe.

Thank you for pointing this out. You are absolutely correct and now I have to find a find a method of fixing this video with correct terms. I do not know how I managed to mess that up. In the future I know the correct terms to use.

@@foxisretrofitting4556 This is probably sufficient. Trying to order one will be the first tip off. You've pinned the correct unit now so you should be good!

I'll have to look into that. I doubt it would just work as a direct transplant. If I had to take a guesses I'd say: 1. The fuel gauge is going to be the wrong application and read wrong even if it did physically fit due to 5th and 6th gen having different gas tanks and fuel pump hanger assemblies/float arms. Most likely set up for different resistance. 2. The temp gauge is most likely the same application electronically since Honda Civics have used the same coolant temp gauge sensor 1988-2000. If the temp gauge is made similarly and you could screw it into the gauge face and the cluster housing I would guess it would work technically. I don't know how accurate the face would be though.

Got mine here: www.ebay.com/itm/163634336012?var=463826521634

If you need to be quick and dirty with stuff that you might be able to find local I've seen a guy on a forum use a 1K and a 4.7K resistors in parallel (take both and hook them in side by side in the connector) to get by temporarily until he got the 820. Your car basically looks for a set amount of resistance and if that resistance is met it turns the eld circuit off running the alternator normally.

You will want to check the ecu and see if it's damaged like this. If you're lucky it's just the resistor that needs changing and damage to the board is minimal. If you are like me and it's this bad you'll need to do a repair like this. The car wont run without that fixed.

I'm not an AC specialist so I'm not too sure but back when I tested my '94 Accord to confirm the compressor was bad I jumped the pressure switch. I made sure the system was charged with refrigerant and then swapped out the compressor clutch relay and then jumped the ac pressure switch with a paper clip. With the switches jumped and the car running the compressor should be on all the time. My compressor clutch worked but my compressor was toast. On the extreme side I've heard of people hot wiring the clutch to test it as well. If you swap out the compressor clutch relay and you get nothing then jump the pressure switch. If still nothing check the wiring coming from the compressor clutch for obvious damage. I've seen the connectors get abused by heat and fluids. If it just doesn't work then you may need a new compressor. As a side not it's rare for the expansion valves to go out on Hondas in the past but these cars are aged now. I think that's all I can think of. More info from 1992 Honda Service www.mediafire.com/file/v6zpg58g5x8enwm/92-95_Honda_Civic_Repair_Manual.pdf/file I think you'll get more info from this Accord manual since it actually has the pressure specs on the pressure switch and how it functions listed in the AC section www.mediafire.com/file/mqb7g1a66gy91z1/Honda_Accord_1994_-_1997_Service_Manual.pdf/file I know every little bit helps. Hopefully there's something here that will help. Alternate 94-97 Accord Manual that will have anything that the other one is missing www.mediafire.com/file/b1f44ldqkmyazql/94-97_Accord_Coupe_Service_Manual.pdf/file

Yes it is. Sí :)

For sure.

www.ebay.com/itm/294278866576?var=592929154751

I'll have to make a video on it sometime. Recalling from memory the backs of the seats can be removed like this: pull up on the releases to unlock them and flip them down like you would if you were carrying cargo. When they are flipped down look at the middle where both seat backs meet eachother. There’s hinges with 10mm bolts in them hiding under the backing panels that are pinned to the seat backs with trim clips. There are also hinges on the sides held with 10mm as well. One side comes off before the other one if memory serves. Extras: You don’t have to but you can remove the side cushions nearest the doors with a 10mm holding cushion hooks at the bottom and then lift up on the cushion to unhook it from the unibody. All the other trims and storage area panels are held in with 10mm bolts and push in trim clips if you ever need to remove them. All the trim up top that wraps around the rear is all clip in, 10mm, and phillips head screwdriver. Quick tip: if you ever have to replace your rear struts you can unclip and move the carpet out of the way enough to reach in and get to the nuts on top of the struts. Hope this helps. Let me know if you need more assistance.

@@foxisretrofitting4556 Thank you so much! Hopefully I'll get to it on Tuesday or Wednesday since the heat index is so outrageous. But I'll definitely report back with my results. Thank you, truly. 🙏

@@konman10000 No problem! Stay safe and hydrated. They called for 104F where I am today.

@@foxisretrofitting4556 Finally got a good day to do it and got everything out! First you pull out the 10mm near the center of the bottom cushion and remove the seat. Then you remove the 10mm for each of the side bolsters and unclip them by pulling them up and out(mine were stubborn as hell but eventually they popped out). That exposes the left and right hinges of the back rests. Each of those hinges have two 10mm bolts holding the back rests in. Once those 4 bolts are removed the final bolt is a 12mm in between the two seat backs that bolts the rear passenger seat to the rear driver seat. Everything slides apart and out of the way letting you get access to the final two 10mm bolts that hold the panel above the fuel level float access and the area that needs to be cut for fuel pump access. Thank you so much for sending me in the right direction! Now it's time to play with the grinder. 😅

@@konman10000 Awesome! Glad to see I could help. Let me know how the cutting goes. I using a thinner disc makes things go faster and more precise, at least for me.

We're hangin' in there.

@@foxisretrofitting4556 good. Thought I'd say hey

Sure man. I'm here to help what's going on?

For the 820 ohm resistor it doesn't matter and can be installed in either direction to bypass the ELD. For replacing the capacitors inside the Engine computer if you ever need to they have a stripe on one side which indicates the negative side which you install pointing to the white stripe on the board.

Hardest part is the removal hence why I did this video specifically. Installation is doing the same steps in reverse. I got rushed to install this transmission into the other car so I wasn't able to record it. The main things to pay attention to during installation is when you put your torque converter back in the transmission spin it until it clunks all the way in. You can use a jack under the transmission to support and help line up the transmission to the engine. When I rebuilt the engine from this white Civic I'll try and do an install video but that's going to be quite a while.

Yes. The 6th picture on this page highlights where the screws are: honda-tech.com/forums/honda-civic-del-sol-1992-2000-1/diy-eg-dash-trim-piece-removal-replacement-2650407/ there's 9 screws that hold it from the backside. That page has highlights showing locations of the screws. I think you can get to these with a stubby phillips head screwdriver.

Makes sense. I'd also check and clean the wiring harness connectors that go to the distributor just in case if you haven't already. With our Hondas aging I started ordering replacement capacitors off of mouser's site and have been replacing the capacitors in the computers for peace of mind. Simple to do with a cheap Ebay adjustable soldering iron, flux, a bottle of rubbing alcohol, qtips, and some solder. Any used computer I would absolutely do this to. The Transmission computers for the Accords on the other hand are a bit thicker than the engine computers and I'm doing some tests to relocate the capacitors to a daughter board. I'll post my results soon.

The head is from a F22B1 bolted to a F22B2 intake, exhaust, and engine block.

You push some clips and the clear plastic separates from the white backing plastic. The plastic I painted blue can be taken out without removing the gauges from the unit itsself.

Yes absolutely. That code would indicate a bad speed sensor on the top rear of the transmission. When you replace it make sure you get one that matches your transmission. (automatic or manual) A cheap Junkyard, Ebay, or Rockauto one will work.

That information is in this short's description. My video that this clip is from is on an Accord's F22. It was an F22B2 non vtec engine but I swapped out the head for a F22B1 vtec engine head and added the wiring and vtec ecu. All documented and filmed on my channel.

The dashes will fit the same physically to the car. Only differences will be certain controls based on trim and the airbags. You should be good.

For B series vtec and non vtec models run limiters to equalize the pressure between the bottom end and the head. D and F series don't need them when going to a Vtec head due to the control orifaces being in the engine heads. B series on the other hand does not have a oil control oriface in the head so you keep the one in the block.

No problem! Glad to see it helped.

Lift the front drivers side of the Accord and put it on a stand. Even better if you can lift both driver and passenger side front but you don't have to do both. Crawl up under the middle of the engine so you can look up and see in between the engine and firewall of the car. You can reach up and unplug the Oil pressure switch with your hand. To remove the oil pressure switch you can use the appropriate size socket and a ratchet. You may have an advantage using a flexhead ratchet for this. Using a 3 inch extension may help as well. If you put the socket onto it first you can reach up and put the ratchet or extension onto it. It helps if you do this when you do an oil and filter change that way the oil filter isn't in your way but it's not necessary. If you find that there's support brackets in your way you can remove them with a 12mm socket to get them out of your way. In a previous video I showed that the wiring harness plastic under the bottom could be removed with a 10mm socket if needed. It is very important that you do not overtighten this as it can strip or even crack the casting of the engine. The rtv gasket like I used in the video will help seal it so if you are doing it by hand when it gets snug you can stop.

@@foxisretrofitting4556 thank you

Thank you so much! 😀

That's a rough one.. I want to try and help you get it open with out risk of damaging the glovebox. Can you post a brief video or pictures of what's broken and what's left? Depending on how it's broken you may be able to slide something through the broken latch or the crack in the top of the glove box door to fish it open.

@@foxisretrofitting4556 No prob. Thanks for the reply. I got it opened going underneath the broken latch using a mini flathead and was able to find and press the lock button and push it down to release. Worked! Thank God. Hopefully that helps anyone else. No vid tho lol

@@joeyjonz1 That's great news! I'm glad to hear you got it open. We may have to do some videos sometime on getting Civic and Accord glove boxes open if a part fails.

They can be quite difficult.

Happy to see you got that off. Shame it took a ratchet with it but it's good to know Craftsman still does replacements.

Craftman is owned by BLACK & DECKER@@foxisretrofitting4556

Thanks for reaching out! To be sure I get my information correct I have to ask a few things. Does your 2002 have a 4 cylinder like the one in this video or a v6? Do you have an automatic or manual transmission? Is it a US, European, or JDM model? What trim is it like DX, LX, EX? If it is a true 2002, with a 2.3 4 cylinder engine, US model, and it is using the factory ecu for a vtec model then this diagram is what you will be looking for: allpinouts.org/pinouts/connectors/car/1998-2002-honda-accord-ecu/ Backup diagram for if the first one goes offline: www.innovatemotorsports.com/wp/content/uploads/2022/05/Honda-Accord-1998-2002.pdf ECU Connector B: pin12 is for the vtec solenoid valve and ECU Connector C: Pin 10 is for the vtec pressure switch. The process of running the wiring is similar to the way I did in my 1994. I show the process here: ruclips.net/video/1k8HDyyyF6k/видео.html Keep in mind your ecu pins will be different than mine in the video (the pins listed above are correct for your application) and your ECU will most likely be located under the center of your dash below the radio. It is held in by 2 bolts and is accessible from the drivers side. I look forward to your reply and will do my best to help get everything wired up.

This page nails it down: honda-tech.com/forums/honda-civic-del-sol-1992-2000-1/diy-eg-dash-trim-piece-removal-replacement-2650407/ there's 9 screws that hold it from the backside. That page has highlights showing locations of the screws.

Thanks! Glad it was helpful. With the music, yeahhhh... At the time it was better than the cartoons my wife was watching in the background coupled with me making silly noises as I worked on the switch 😆

@@foxisretrofitting4556. Yeah get it. Good video nonetheless.

It can take a couple tries to get the needle on in the correct spot. You have to line it up carefully and depending on your luck you may have to put the needle on with the ignition on and the back of the gauges hooked up. If you are using a different size tire or rims other than the stock steel ones it can have an effect too. This gauge in the video read correctly when I put it back in but now that we are running alloy rims on it it reads slightly higher. About 3-5 mph. Although I'd rather it read higher than lower and cause an unnecessary speeding ticket. I could correct that but I don't want to risk damaging anything since these are fragile and it doesn't really bother me so I just let it ride.

It just means it got faster.

Yeah she is cute that's for sure 🙂

You can usually just swap the non vtec head for a vtec one and swap the engine computer out for a vtec one to be able to use. You may also have to add 2 wires to your computer harness depending on your region, one for the vtec solenoid and the other for the vtec pressure sensor. Some models like the Japanese market cars don't have a vtec pressure switch and just have a solenoid so then you only need to add one wire.

@@foxisretrofitting4556 thank you for the nice answer helps a lot 🤝🏼

@@foxisretrofitting4556 by engine computer do you mean the ecu ?

​@@elisabethnavarro1739 Yes. The "Engine Control Module". In models like the automatic transmission 91-95 Accords there is 2 computers: One for the the engine "ECU" and one for the transmission "TCM" (transmission control module). In Civics of the same era they use 1 computer that controls both the engine and transmission. This is technically called a "PCM" (powertrain control module) but most of us just call it an ECU to make it simpler since there's only one computer in those cases. When they went from OBD1 computer generation to OBD2 in 1996 they changed Accords to having that single "PCM" to control both the engine and transmission in one unit.

That's awesome! Let me know if you need any wagon information. One thing that took me a couple years to find that I thought was neat is there's actually a labeled factory hitch wiring harness plug that is in the spare "trunk" area.

It's got it's pros and cons. The positive things it does is it will keep your throttle body and intake from getting nasty over time with oil vapors and will prevent carbon build up. If you like the look it does look pretty neat. If you are just driving to work and back or just around town it does just fine with the little breather equipped. The negatives are you do have to clean around it time to time due to the vapor build up on the valve cover. If you drive highways or in high rpm ranges depending on your mileage and amount of blowby it will STINK. I wound up reconnecting my valve cover to my intake air cleaner because for a while I was highway driving and it was very noticeable. Observing actual performance of the Accord during use it doesn't seem to change performance at all either way you prefer. Doesn't hurt to give it try and see how you like it though. I converted my 1979 Chevy Van over to a valve cover breather years back and it was about the same experience except I didn't get as much stink from the breather due to how air circulates around the body. I feel like exactly where the breather is on the Accord and my mileage is why it can get stinky. I haven't had that same experience on Civics though. I haven't had a Civic stink from one yet. Makes sense since the civics' ports are facing straight back toward the firewall where the Accord is facing straight up.