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10:47 can’t leave back door open

#1 XC BLADE 2020 model steel $118 2020 model Black $160. Steel “RUN”model $140 Steel “RUSH”model $150 “RUSH”Colored $204 Steel “RAMPAGE” $172 RAMPAGE Colored $204 #2 STEP STEEL CCM xs Steel $110 V-Steel $140 Black steel $170 #3 JRZ CCM xs Steel $120 DLC $200 #4 TYDEN Steel $100 Diomond edge $170 #5 RAMONEDGE CCM xs $138 #6 BYONIC CCM xs Steel “BRUSHED” $110 Steel “SUPER POLISHED” $120 “BRUSHED DLC” $130 “PRO POLISHED” $160 #7 BLADETECH “MIRROR Steel” $110 DLC$160 #8 BAUER LS5 $75 LS PULSE $110 FLY-X $120 LS PULSE Ti $160 FLY-Ti $170 LS Carbonlight $180 #9 FLAIR SKATE BLADE Steel $150 - $165 DLC $187 - $202 #10 TRUE Shift Max Steel $90 - $48 on sale Shift Max DLC $160 #11 GRAF Cobra NT3000 $70 Ultra 6000 Perforated $80 #12 CCM Speedblade steel $70 Speedblade XS1 Black $110 - $44 on sale #13 MASSIVE $20 discounted price if you can find any.

I think its equally important to explain to the player/parent what the different profiles are for, what are ones advantage over the other, etc. i also think its up to us ‘sharpening techs’ to also explain to an upper level skater that has been using a ‘house cut’ for all their hockey ‘career’ to experiment on different hollows as well as different profiles as well. Just my 2 cents..

@thesharpeningdude do you ever have an issue getting these in the holders? I'm having an awful hard time getting mine in the Tuuk lightspeed edge holders. They're the right blades but wow- they're so tight and I could barely get the first one in and it doesn't seem like the trigger goes all the way back to the right spot. And then I can't even get the 2nd one in. My hubby couldn't either! Just wondering if you've ever had the same issue. Black Diamond DLC

From one sharpening dude to another… thank you for the honesty. All this BS out there how Sparx or Prosharp are so much better than the traditional machines. Horses for courses, and if the sharpening is done by a part timer like me it is Prosharp all the way! Expensive but easy to learn and use. My biggest gripe is that I have gone and taken all Sharpening Courses incl. Profiling offered by the Swedish Ice Hockey Association and the advanced one with Prosharp that is a full Saturday from 8am to 7 pm going through theory, differences and lots of hands on with various versions of their machines including the latest one which profiles two blades at once... If you don't learn it and hone it you screw up any blade. Man I would love to talk over a couple of beers and get your take on the sharpening philosophy. My impression is that the US and Canada prefer super sharp skates even on warm ice, whilst the Scandies are obsessed with giving their kids the bluntes steel possible to increase glide speed, force them into a lower and wider stance yet start way to early to shorten the profile or switch to multiradius. The National Association tries to teach and convince us to put kids 5-8 years old and under 88 lbs on the longest radius and sharpest hollow to make the skating balanced and enjoyable. It made total sense to me, give them a stable 17" radius and a 12 mm (0.5 inch) hollow... Try to tell that to the hockey parents (who hardly ever played themselves and if so on ancient equipment) and they declare you coucou. With our U12s there is a constant fight to let me adjust the hollow based on their weight. It is like a race whose kid is first rocking the Quad or Elipse profile in 25mm (1 inch) hollow... Like 85 kg (188lbs) college players.

Nice

would love to see you do a video on Flare blades.

Recently ordered a pair of Bladetech DLC's with custom profile and name and was received within two days of placing the order. Amazing product and favourite blades

Great breakdown! I love my DLC Bladetechs! Thanks for setting me up.

If you don't want to pop out the steel the size is usually printed on the bottom of the holder between the back two rivets. It's followed by an R or an L depending on if it's the right or left skate. For example 255L or 230R.

Check out Conway + Banks bags!