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I like tightening it as close as possible to where the threads start for better control. You can feel the difference, say holding a drinking straw stationary on your left hand and then turning/winding/twisting it on the far side of the drinking straw with your right hand. Apply enough torque and the whole straw will start to deform/collapse. If you move closer to the point you are turning, you have less torque being applied to the entire rod and just to the area that needs the pressure.

Also curious about this

Definitely operator (me) error. I don't often shoot high powered 357 Magnum loads, and it takes me awhile to work up to a particular grip that I will stay consistent with.

I got mine from gunsmithertools.com but they seem to be out of stock at the moment. There are a few other tools out there, Brownells has one that is just as good but make sure you get the right one for your revolver. www.brownells.com/tools-cleaning/gun-tools/action-frame-tools/extractor-rod-tool-for-sw/

Yeah, that's good to see. Many people immediately forget about safety once they're injured or something scary like that happens, especially when there's pain involved. When I was younger I had a hang-fire blow up outside the gun after ejecting it and it blasted unburned powder into my eyes and I just dropped the gun without even thinking. Probably wouldn't do that today, but it's a good reminder to see things like this and Remember (and hope other people do, so they don't make the same mistake).

Might want to check to see if it’s cracked and causing it to unscrew, but it could just be turning itself depending on what ammo you are using. You may also use purple thread locker, not the blue and certainly not red.

@@bluephantomfury, doesn’t appear to visually seem cracked And I only use factory ammo, I don’t reload.

@@bluephantomfury I purchased this tool from Midway USA it worked great.

Major areas I would check: Strain Screw is on tight. Next would be to take out the rebound spring and perhaps changing it to something stronger. You may have worn it out; the rebound spring compresses when you pull the trigger and is responsible for moving the trigger back into position and resetting for Double Action.

I got mine from gunsmithertools.com but they seem to be out of stock at the moment. There are a few other tools out there, Brownells has one that is just as good but make sure you get the right one for your revolver. www.brownells.com/tools-cleaning/gun-tools/action-frame-tools/extractor-rod-tool-for-sw/

Are you using factory ammunition, or reloads? I would do something called a plunk test if you are using reloads, you measure how long of a case + bullet you can get away with. CZs and most European guns are notorious for having really tight chamber lengths (and the cure for some is to do something called chamber reaming to allow them to accept longer ammo.) I would also check to see if the recoil spring is due for a replacement, and if you are using shock buffers to replace them or not use them. Another thing to check is also the extractor, make sure there isn’t gunk or something that is catching the rim of the case enough to cause it to go out of battery.

@@bluephantomfury Wow. Thank you for all that amazing and knowledgeable information. I now have some good starting points to figure out exactly what is going on. Thank you so much for taking the time to share all those thoughts with me. It truly means alot that you took the time to help me out. I honestly appreciate it.

Every pull of the trigger on my 929 is double action, and almost all revolver division shooters will shoot double action. You will find yourself wasting more time cocking the hammer for single action each time. The Apex hammer (and most competition oriented hammers) solves this for you as there is no thumb tab to move to single action. The Apex hammer does have single action capability, but this is probably for very intricate test firing and stuff (something I don't use). I personally like a heavy trigger pull. My Double Action is about 8.5#, so each shot I take is always going to be 8.5#. I am not fully up to speed about Revolver Optics and the implications of the new rules for Limited Optics (and the talk about Lim10 Revo Optics for that matter) but you are correct that in USPSA a Red Dot on a revolver moves you to Open.

Dehorning the hammer/reducing the mass of the hammer allows the main spring to accelerate faster, allowing for lighter weight springs to achieve the same “whack” with a lighter trigger pull. You can crush a soda can with a sledge hammer. With a 10# sledgehammer, you can certainly crush a soda can with one whack. But, you can also do the same job a little faster (in swing and heft) with a 7# sledgehammer.

​@@bluephantomfury makes total sense. Ty, sir.

I usually let the surfaces wear in a little to smooth out, but not a bad idea to lubricate!

It’s running great!

@@bluephantomfury, I decided on the 986 had TK custom do a complete trigger job. I’m waiting for NICS to clear. Here in Communist NJ it’s taking days for Instant background checks.

@@edbigtruck nice! On my list I want to get next is a 627. Eli and the team over at TK Custom do great things. My cylinder was chamfered from them, and they did a great job!

@@bluephantomfury the 627 is also on my list. Hopefully in a couple months I’ll get one may have to wait to have Eli work his magic. I’m getting this 986 all set up for USPSA Steel Challenge

Sure!