Видео

Thanks Leonard!

In our case the wall's studs were metal, but with wood studs you could go into the studs sure.

Well, Scott is a true flooring veteran...😉

The one used in the video is LePage PL Premium Construction Adhesive. Thanks for watching. Team PD

Hi Katherine, In this case we are running the planks horizontally across the studs so that the brad nails have something to grab. You could install the planks vertically, however we would recommend that you install strips of strapping across the studs to create anchor points for the flooring planks. Thanks! Team PD

Thank you!

Our pleasure Blue Team SIX!👍

This same process can also be applied to our engineered hardwoods as well yes. -Team PD

Yes Frank, we would definitely agree with your assessment👍 -Team PD

Hi there, we used a polyurethane construction adhesive for the installation in this video. Thanks for watching!

We actually had metal beams behind this wall so glueing was the only option as the nails would not be completely securing the planks. If you have wooden beams you could just nail the planks.

@@powerdekornorthamerica7879 ok , makes sense 👍

Hi Tracy, we did not use any trim pieces for the edges of the wall. Just some careful measuring for planks on ends and it came out straight enough. If you are concerned about the edge you could also finish it off with a quarter round moulding, that would work too. Good luck👍 Team PD

Hi Phil, these are 1.5" brad nails.

Hi Jason, Our experience with any two sided tape products that would be strong enough to hold a wall up is that it would damage your drywall worse than the brad nails (and as bad as most adhesive). Consider that a 10’ x 10’, is 100 square feet of flooring installed vertically, if that tape lets go, you risk having 200 lbs of flooring falling off the wall (risking injury or damage). For these reasons we recommend the use of adhesive and brad nails. To minimize the potential damage to the drywall from using an aggressive adhesive, you could use a silicone based adhesive with the nails (up to 10’ in height, otherwise use a standard contractors adhesive for maximum holding power. Good luck with your installation! Team PD

We may not have done it on camera, but we did confirm before affixing anything to the wall that we were square with the walls. This wall is in an office building with a suspended ceiling that has a slight curve, so we went with being square with the floor and walls instead. If you are installing up to a finished drywall ceiling, it would be good to verify the measure as you mention and snap a chalk line. For your other question, this flooring is click lock profiled, so the “tongue” is not ideal to try and nail into, as you would with an standard T&G hardwood floor. The lower “groove profile juts out and provides a much easier surface to nail into with the finishing nail gun. The finishing nails are really just there to hold the planks tight to the wall while the adhesive sets up, we do not recommend just using finishing nails, as the weight of the wall can become significant with a larger and higher install area. Thank you!

If you are using adhesive/silicone to adhere it to the wall, it would probably be OK, but to keep the planks flat on the wall while the adhesive sets up, doing every row is recommended. Thanks!

Hi Mike, this installation was done over a typical drywall. Thanks for watching!

If you would like to be able to remove it later on, you would need to install with Silicone and nails rather than contractor's adhesive. If it is installed with contractor's adhesive, the drywall would need to be changed as well. Thanks, Team PD

The brad nails are used just to hold the planks in place while the glue sets up, All adhesive manufacturers recommend a clean surface for the adhesive to adhere to, since wallpaper can peel off the wall (not to mention, some wallpaper is textured, which will also inhibit adhesion…) we do not recommend installing over wallpaper.

Hi Frank, Thanks for your tip! Yes you could use glue on the short sides. We would suggest using T&G flooring adhesive for this (not white glue or carpenters glue as they will dry out and become brittle with time). One thing to keep in mind if you are gluing the ends at installation, replacing just one plank becomes more of a challenge as the entire row is glued together. -Team PD

Our pleasure misskristinn!

Absolutely! No reason not to.👍

We used PL Premium adhesive👍

Funny. I was thinking the same thing but I know my luck... three months later I would find out the hard way why everyone says to glue it.

Most "rigid core" products would not be able to be nailed... so it is doubtful.

You could yes, but it would be harder working against gravity. An alternative would be to measure your total height and calculate the plank width required for last ripped plank and start with that one at the bottom👍 -TeamPD

Hi Tod, We have installed it the way you described as well and it works fine. We recommend you add a few screws to secure your plywood to the wall studs however. A bit more to patch up if you do remove everything later on but well worth it. The weight of the flooring adds up, and on a larger wall especially it is a good idea to have some extra strength to keep the plywood from letting go. Also we still recommend nailing/stapling the flooring to the plywood along with the glue fo the installation of the flooring. Good Luck! -TeamPD

Hi Christian, this one has many good reviews www.homedepot.ca/product/ryobi-18v-one-airstrike-18-gauge-cordless-brad-nailer-tool-only-/1000681783 Good luck! -TeamPD

Hi Nick - We used an 18g finishing (brad) nailer. You could use up to 16g also. Good luck👍 -TeamPD

You are very welcome...from Canada! ;)

These are "Brad" or Finishing Nails" used to hold the flooring in place while the adhesive sets. -TeamPD

@@powerdekornorthamerica7879 ahh yes, that's right! Thank you!

Hi Donal, This is not recommended. Installing directly on the studs would mean that there would be end-joints between with no support. It is recommended to install sheathing on the wall before installing the flooring panels. TeamPD

Though we have not officially tested this, the extra layer applied to the wall may reduce some of the exterior noises. Of course if there is a window on the exterior wall you would likely have the same level of sound penetration.

@@powerdekornorthamerica7879 ok thank gunna give it a shot

Glad we could help Dr. Chava. Good luck!

Thanks Raymond! 😊🙏

Hello Christine, the easiest way would be to use a stud finder. They can be purchased at The Home Depot for $15-20. Great surprise by the way!👍 -TeamPD

Hi PS, screws would not work installed where we are nailing in the click system.

It took about 4 hours for 2 guys with some experience. Thanks

Thanks David!

Charles, I can't tell you what the fire rating is for the drywall, but the laminate flooring has a Class 1 fire rating. Thanks!

De nada!👍

Thanks Justin, Good luck with your install! -Team PD

Thanks Dave!

Absolutely!

We used PL Premium on drywall. You could use silicone (would need to be nailed) or any contractor's adhesive. Thanks!