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Welcome to the amateur radio hobby, my friend! Depending on how deep you want to get into antenna theory and design (I wouldn't recommend going very deep in the beginning), you can come up with several reasons to run both transmit and receive antennas. The best new to amateur radio answer I think I can give is that you will often hear, and soon know, that everything in radio is a compromise. Probably the most common antenna for most hobbyists is one that is in the middle ground of several compromises. Be it an "end fed half wave" or a "multi-band vertical" etc.. it is one that does an okay job at transmitting and receiving on one or more bands. If you start to move away from that middle ground, say to improve transmit efficiency, then you start to lose receive capabilities or multi band performance and vice versa. At my QTH (home base) I experimented with and tweaked my short vertical antenna, pushing the limits of multi-band transmit capabilities. It does an excellent job at getting my signal out DX (long distance) on 20m, and is fine for all bands 10-40m, but all of this is at the expense of receive capabilities. The antenna can still recieve, especially strong signals, but all received signals are lower than they would be with the compromise antenna. I can talk to Great Britain, and they can hear me loud and clear; which is great with 100w, compact antenna, and Indiana soil, but I can't hear their side of the conversation through the same antenna. So, I have my flag yard / receive field (which I actually set up for listening long before I had an amateur license). In the opposite manner, it is an extremely capable multi-band receive setup. With it, I can hear the other side of conversations that my transmit antenna can not, and even moreso, I can hear signals that I can not reach with the vertical. This setup is so far away from that middle ground compromise, that I couldn't even transmit through the antennas. I could probably try with QRP (low power), but normal 100w power would certainly burn up the baluns or worse. You'll soon learn that although most HAM operators stick with 1 or 2 basic compromise antennas, there are some with entire "antenna farms". These hobbyists will run a few, or even dozens of antennas, each with a specific high efficiency purpose. Some transceivers come with multiple TX (transmit) and RX (receive) antenna inputs to fill this need, while some hobbyists prefer to use multiple radios that fill roles as specific as their antennas. Some build or buy switches to select antennas, some use SDR (Software Defined Radio) and computers to automate the process. But don't let any of that scare you, because it is all hobby and no more necessary than 1 capable transceiver and 1 capable antenna. Multiple antenna setups are not for everyone, but it is an aspect of the hobby that is certainly available for those operators with inquisitive minds and experimenting natures (as well as the needed space). If you do find yourself drawn to the antenna theory and design nook within the niche, I would suggest finding a copy of "The ARRL Antenna Book For Radio Communications". It is a big, heavy book, and excellent resource for all things antenna. The newest addition is always pretty expensive, but used copies are relatively easy to obtain online. If you have any questions, feel free to ask at any time. I'm sorry this went on so long. I didn't realize just how much I was typing. I should probably make a video on the subject in the future. Good luck with your licensing and all your radio adventures! 73 KD9ZCG

@@abundantlifehomestead3100 Thanks for the very detailed answer to my question. One thing that is clear from all the youtube videos I've watched, is that getting a great antenna trumps just about everything in the radio world.

Yes, you are correct: the antenna(s) is everything! Many aspiring HAM's will fall into the trap of improving performance with amplifiers, but gains from any piece of equipment from the transceiver to the feed point are minimal until you have a great antenna dialed in. Still, just starting out, I would recommend 1 radio and 1 antenna that fits your abilities, property, local restrictions etc.. and learn up from there. Just like any other hobby, from gardening to coin collecting, the newcomer can get quickly overwhelmed and burnout before they ever get the chance to realize their own potential. 73 KD9ZCG

Thank you! 73 KD9ZCG

Thank you for your support! I honestly never set out to make so much of my channel about the tractor, but soon saw there was a need for real B7100 content from someone who uses this classic machine on a regular basis. You're going to love your B7100 as most owners do. As long as you take good care of it, and be realistic about the capabilities, it will out perform your expectations every day and potentially be around for the next generations to love. I have some more B7100 content filmed and a lot more planned, but life is getting in the way at the moment. Content will be slow again till probably the beginning of the year. In the meantime, I'm glad you enjoy the videos; feel free to ask any questions you have on any subject and I'll do my best to get back with you. Appreciate the subscription. Thank you.

Thank you!

31:55 Station Master Desktop Use the timestamp above for my segment all about the software, and if you're interested, find it on the web here: sm2.station-master.online/lander/4?guest-redirect=1 73 KD9ZCG

@@abundantlifehomestead3100 thanks I will check that out.

I wouldn't mind getting a 590sg still at some point for comparison. They don't come up for sale in my area very often though, and you rarely hear of them needing to go in the shop. Hope yours turns out ok. 73 KD9ZCG

As long as your fuel pump is strong and in good shape, this shortcut should be fine on these small engines. I think the reason the "by the book" method includes bleeding the injectors is to ensure that you don't get an air lock at one of them. Unlike on a gasoline engine, a diesel injector sprays fuel near the end of the compression stroke. So if there is air in a fuel line behind the injector, the pump has to be pushing hard enough, long enough, to compress the air to a pressure that overcomes the pressure in the cylinder. Another thing you can do if you only bleed to the pump, and don't want to loosen injectors, but it still won't start, is to pull the decompression knob for 10 seconds or so while engaging the starter. This prevents the condition I just detailed and allows the pump to push the air out freely. Thank you for your kind words and support. Feel free to add input and experience any time you like.

Not really. P Blaster is a very low viscosity penetrating oil that is great at freeing stuck nuts and bolts and better for lubricating machinery that stays outside. WD40 is a good lubricant and rust preventative for parts that might get exposed to high humidity or dew, but not really out in the weather because there it will gum up and attract dirt over time. Hope this helps. If you have any more questions, feel free to ask.

@@abundantlifehomestead3100 thank you! You explained the differences perfectly. Luckily, I was able to get the nuts off my tiller today by putting a 3' metal pole over the handle of my socket wrench. I will look for some blaster at the store for the future. Thanks for your help!

Thank you! How did you fare through hurricane Milton after the damage Helene already caused?

@@abundantlifehomestead3100 no more damage thankfully. We had about four inches of rain. Thank you for checking!! I was going to do a short about how nighttime hurricanes are extra stressful but just taking a little break. Hoping to have a few cutedog videos up this weekend. 💎

@treasureandasong take a break for sure! I have several videos loaded to schedule when I do need time off. They're not great, but they're publishable. This injury was current, just happened Sunday morning, but then on Wednesday one of the family old folks I often talk about being caretaker for passed away. At least for a couple of weeks, I'll be pulling from the reserve pool videos while I get her affairs settled.

@@abundantlifehomestead3100 condolences 🙏 sorry for your loss.

Hello and Thank you Gunter! Maybe catch you on the air one day. 73 KD9ZCG

@@Bob814u hey, I'm with you on getting old and making memories lol. Maybe I'll catch you down the log. 73 KD9ZCG

Thank you for the support. I have a couple of digital interfaces and a key. Depending on how life goes, my next HAM video might be me fumbling through connecting a digital setup and trying some FT-8. Thanks again 73 KD9ZCG

My beard hasn't changed since long before I started making videos. It's no less ugly today than it was then. If I'm looking better, then your opinion has changed, not the beard lol.

@@abundantlifehomestead3100 OK! Sometimes the truth is difficult! (lol).

It sure is! There were actually yet bigger engines there, but this is one of my favorites. And I'm kind of partial to the Muncie's, being my hometown lol.

You're very welcome! If you have any questions about your machine, feel free to ask and I (or another viewer maybe) will try to address them.

You know i will :) This machine has been my backbone and muscle ever since I broke my back. I come up with all kinds of ways to use it. Thanks for watching!

Thank you for the kind words and support. Congratulations on your project. Sounds like you have a "new style" b7100. There are only a few slight differences between old and new, but keep it in mind and cross check with your serial number before ordering any parts. As for injector torque specs on the fuel bleeding: I just pulled the workshop manual out to double check, and Kubota does not give a spec for the fuel line to injector (where I bled them), only from the nozzle to holder and holder to engine block. Let me know if you need those specs. Kubota at the time was bad about excluding important information in owner's, service, and workshop manuals. Even dealers just had to guess a lot. You'll hear me specifically mention lack of torque specs in several of the b7100 videos. I actually get any hydraulic hoses I need made at a local John Deere dealer (Reynolds Farm Equipment, Muncie IN). I just call in the length and size and the hose I go pick up has never been wrong. I'll keep all your suggestions in mind. Input is always appreciated. 73, KD9ZCG

@michaelutter7521 thank you for your kind words and support.

Thank you!

Hello and welcome!

Jumpy, jerky, or ratcheting hydraulics on any tractor can be caused by a few different things. First would be clogged filters. Clogged filters cause intermittent highs and lows in the hydraulic pressure. Your tractor has a spin on type filter and permanent type hydraulic screen(s) similar to my b7100. Second would be low fluid causing the same condition. Third would be water contamination or air in the system. Water and air will compress where hydraulic oil does not. Every little bit of water or air that enters the ram has to compress before it moves further. Fourth would be worn out valves. Valves in need of rebuilding will often push adequate fluid to the ram, but immediately bleed back some of that fluid under pressure. Fifth and last thing I can think of at the moment would be a damaged or bent hydraulic cylinder. This would usually be obvious damage to the chrome push rod part of the cylinder. Check out my video here where I cover basic hydraulic service: ruclips.net/video/PAJvHv2mNSY/видео.html Your tractor is similar to mine though not exactly. Your filters and screens will look the same but are in different locations. (Screen on right side of transmission, filter on left, on a b8200) Do a basic service on your hydraulics, run it a few hours, check for leaks and see if the condition continues. That will rule out a lot of the possible problems.

Very cool! Thank you and welcome!

Dish soap might be effective against yellow jackets, but it is no less toxic or more environmentally friendly than the pesticide. Check out the ingredients list on your soap sometime. It's kind of scary.

@@abundantlifehomestead3100 at least it’s biodegradable. I don’t know what the label on the can says about that. Straight boiling water does just as well. The only thing is to make sure enough is poured in fast enough. Nice talk!

And thank you for viewing!

Thank you for your input.