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My fluid still red after 250 000 miles. Do I have to change it?

I owned a BG trans flusher and only used it every so often as we told customers not to flush fluid unless it’s done on regular basis.. most of the time just drop pan, replace filter and refill 😊

The problem is, these days vehicle manufacturers don't include a dip stick. They want people to wear our their transmissions, so they have to buy a new one.

I owed a Toyota 4Runner 12 years, never touch the tranny fluid ever, it lasted 265k miles, the body rotted away .. no maintenance on the tranny ..

What about CVT's, the most you can get is a drain and fill. Should it be done twice to try and remove more of the old fluid?

where are you located

When I changed it, I changed a little at a time. I would remove 2 quarts and put 2 quarts back in. I would do this a few times until I saw it was all clean fluid.

Inspect the pan ? What the hell would you inspect, it's a pan it ether holds fluid or it doesn't

N o

Changing yes,power flushing..No..

Change your Fluid , But if it has alot of miles on it , leave it alone !

After stressing about this, I came to the realisation that if the auto gearbox in my 120i (F20) does wear out and break, I can just replace it with another used transmission. An oil + filter change here in the UK, including labour, is around £350 - £450, whereas a used gearbox with low mileage can be bought for around £1,000 + another few hundred pounds for labour to fit the damn thing. Your thoughts on this?

I have a BMW 1 series 120i (f20) which is now 6 years old with only 14,000 miles on it. Should I change the auto transmission oil? It has never been done before. I don't understand what people mean by flushing and draining. I thought you just empty the old oil out and then replace it with new oil. Would appreciate some help with this - thank you.

Should I change the transmission oil on a 2004 Highlander and 2006 Camry that have 70 k miles, have no issues and never changed the transmission oil?

My Acura dealership is telling me I have to change my transmission fluid out. They’re wanting to charge $400 plus and they’re only telling me I have to do it because of the mileage. I currently have 47,000 miles on the car but they’re not saying anything about what shape the fluid is in. Let me know if this is something I need to do or not do.

I changed my Scion XB at 40,000. After another 20,00 it started to shift hard. No slip or noise , but you could feel it. I drained it and added new plus Lucas trans additive. Hard shifting stopped withon 50 miles and today, at over 200,000 it is still smooth. The directions say only 8 oz for a small trans first time, then 4 oz every change after that. So the 28 oz bottle is good 6 changes.😊

So if it’s black DONT do a flush? But I can at least replace the transmission oil? Correct

Thanks for doing this video.

what do you do when the oil is black

I did a full flush (15L) on my Mitsubishi pajero at 130000km, through the front cooler lines. Transmission is the same as A750F. Not a big difference, but now I am more confident 😊

Great advice, much better than you'll get at most shops. Unless you drove the vehicle off the lot new or purchased it from someone that kept COMPLETE service records you're gambling with a full flush regardless of the fluid color or odor. Much like extended oil change intervals, the conditions the vehicle is operated under play a huge role in how much harm or good a spill & fill or a full flush will do. I've had three vehicles with the hydramatic 4T40/45 and had good luck with just installing the Dorman oilpan with plug and draining the fluid every 2nd or 3rd oil change. This eases the new fluid in rather than the shock of removing ALL the worn fluid and replacing it with slipperier detergent fluid. 00 Malibu lasted until 203k when it was sold, 06 HHR is up to 220k now with no issues, and I have 09 HHR with only 138k and I'm expecting that one will surpass 200k as well

My dodge charger! Owner’s manual says change at 130,000 miles! Car has 69,000 miles on it now ! 2014 runs like a new car

Damn if you do, damn if you don't 😮

I have 2018 Audi a7 with 27.000miles on it. I change my oil every 4000/5000 miles. When you recommend to change my transmission fluid ? Also to mention my car tuned stage 2. Thank you for response in advance.

Always change fluids & Filters when Necessary! Otherwise you're just riding on time, with big expenses on the way... If it's shot it shot, I'd rather spend $100 to do the maintenance that should have been done...

I’m going to be changing mine just bought a 2014 Dodge Caravan and I have 120,000 that’s when they recommend to change it so I’m getting the whole system flushed and then every year I’ll just drain and replace the filter

can you share where to get this Pump and Acrylic tester plate? how strong thats the vacuumed pump needs to be or is it an AC pump? also more details on what areas to check, there are many valves so how and where to check? thanks

Wow! Best explanation ever given on the subject.

I always ask WHY , being suspicious when a customer would ask for a transmission service. First thing in my mind is it must be slipping or other issues that a customer might ask for this. As you say , check it out before agreeing and also explain to the customer all the points you mention about condition of the fluid. 45 ish years ago I started my apprenticeship in a transmission shop. There were no scanners. If we dropped the pan and seen brass,aluminum or metal filings and the customer didn’t want a rebuild we would put old fluid back in. Explained as you point out the detergent of new fluid and consequences.

_I DONT UNDERSTAND WHY THEY DONT EXPLAIN WHY? CLICKBAIT_

Excellent and awesome explanation ❤

I bought my 2012 forf fusion from carmax with 57k on it. Just checked the tranny fluid for the first time at 115k and it was clean and bright red as could be.

2014 GMC Terrain (2.4L Ecotec, AWD) Just changed ATF @ under 113K miles. Fluid was Black and about 20K miles overdue (93K miles is "Normal" Service Interval and sooner for "Severe" (Not a Tow vehicle... didn't meet the manual's bullet points for "Severe" interval). The Rear Diff and Transfer Case were both serviced as well (75w90), and also just over 60K miles ago. Those looked a lot cleaner... Everything is currently doing well... But as I only drain/filled it twice (vs 3 times, I only brought enough fluid to do it twice, didn't know it was common to basically use 3 times the recommended factory fill for a "clean" fluid change. Figure the parts stores would have highlighted both Numbers for "top off" and for a "real" change/flush. ) my Shop recommends I do another set of drain/fills within 15K miles. Since I had them take samples of everything I waiting to see what the Oil Analysis comes back with to see if I should have any concerns/adjustments for the next ATF Fill...

First, I have changed my tranny fluid on most of my cars. Albeit around 100K. Most of these were Audi's and wasn't having any problems at all. However, I only warmed fluid per instructions and drained, new filter and gasket, (cleaned pan and magnets). Every Audi I have owned had over 200K and some near 300K. Never an issue with any of these trannys by doing the service as described, (but did not flush). Yes, I only get about 40% of the old fluid out but it still looked pretty good and all runs well.

Tyvm

I’ve owned a Ford Fusion and Escape since new. At first I was in disbelief when the dealer told me Fords recommended ATF fluid change interval for them was only 50,000 km / 30,000 miles. However they have no detachable pan and an internal non serviceable filter (without splitting the transmission case). It’s a straightforward drain and fill process so I do each one every second year, a jug of ATF and an hour of my time is well worth it to keep the fluid from deteriorating in the first place. On AWD’s the “Lifetime” PTU fluid is worth your while to change as well.

2014 Jeep Compass. No transmission dipstick. Changing fluid is extremely difficult. Bought car at 105,000 miles. Brought car to Jeep dealership asking for a transmission fluid change. Two dealerships said they do not recommend changing fluid as it can cause transmission slippage. I decided to follow their advice as I know they were talking from experience.

I am well acquainted with a guy with an F-150 with over 440,000 miles, and the ATF has never been changed. Still functions normally. Very unusual? Yeah, probably one in a million.

For those who want a Complete (Trans, Torque Converter, and Radiator-Cooler) fluid exchange vs an approx 40% pan exchange, the following 2007 RAV4 approach SHOULD be applicable to Most makes and models: 1.) Remove the plastic shield under the front of the vehicle. Note, new assorted plastic push-clips are recommended. 2.) The radiator cooler transmission fluid out-fall is on the drivers side approx 3/4" OD, 3/8" ID rubber hose with spring clasp clamp -- EASY to see and access! 3.) Disconnect the hose and attach an extension line to a translucent 1gal jug in an catch pan (for overflow/spills). 4.) The steel return line may drip into a second catch pan. 5.) Snuggly attach a clear extension line to the dip-stick tube with a funnel. (I inserted a clear plastic kitchen "baster" keeping the refill level from overflowing at top of the "baster"/funnel). 6.) Start the engine and put in gear (automatic) until approx 1/2 gal OLD is collected and turn off engine. 7.) Fill approx 1/2 gal NEW. 8.) Repeat for approx 2 1/2 gals until bright pink is dispensing. 9.) Reattach radiator/trans Return line. 10.) Adjust fluid level to the low side of the "Cold" mark on dip-stick (so you can top-off to the Hot mark). 11.) Drive vehicle until transmission is up to approx 115 deg. F and adjust fluid level to "Hot" mark. 12.) Reattach the plastic shield using new plastic push-pins. 13.) This should replace the Trans, Torque Converter, and Radiator Cooler with ALL New Fluid. NOTE: For Sealed transmissions attach an extension line with funnel to the steel Return line (instead of the non-existent "dip-stick tube"). Happy motoring!

Back in the day I sold a transmission service while working at a Ford Dealership..... you could drain the converter on them also ..finished ..ready to back the car out ...and nothing but slippage ... I did that 2 times before I learned the lesson ..... Also Radiator flushes can cause leaks ..open up holes that were plugged with gunk ...

YOU WANT LONG MILAGE 400 THOUSAND OR MORE CHANGE TRANNY FLUIDS EVERY 40 THOUSAND MILES. I AM TALKING FROM RUNNING FLEETS.

So of the fluid is clean, keep swapping it out every so often. If it's dirty, don't do it.

nice vids

Notice that this entire video is discussing transmission flushing, which is far different than dropping the pan and doing a gravity drain. Flushing is pretty much always a terrible idea, as it's prone to dislodging junk that will get caught in valve bodies etc. Dropping the pan and changing fluid and filter, though? I'll always do it. I've done it on fluid that was black as midnight and (as I discovered by presence of the white plug in the pan) had never been changed in 186,000 miles on a Lincoln Town Car. That car ran like a dream afterwards; literally drove it across the country. Same story on an old Astro van that lost Reverse-took a couple changes, but that thing was on the road for at least another 4 years afterward. My current F-150 even has a drain plug for the torque converter; I got it at 191,000, immediately changed the fluid. Eight years later, it still shifts like a champ and the torque converter stutter has not returned.

great advice thank you Sir.

With a volatile subject like transmission flushes. I can say. This video made way too much sense

I made this mistake with my previous car

Never discussed only doing a DRAIN (portion) not a flush.

I built my own, and I studied my transmission for a month and learned that a transmission is made to were out, so changing the fluid is only cleaning the fluid, but your transmission will were out, no difference