Видео

Love to meet up with you awesome video

Smog vacuum advance canisters are calibrated for ported vacuum, the vacuum canister requires higher vacuum to reach all-in. The pre-smog engines idled advanced 20 degrees and vacuum advance was all-in at just 5 inches vacuum. We used to lock the distributer full advance and spin the engine up with no jgnition then once it was spinning, power on the ignition.

Thanks, i sub. Very nice agree.

If doing it on a car I usually do a similar method even if less accurate but doesn't require disassembly . Both my Datsuns have v belt pulleys with a notch for tdc on the inside, and a 20 degree timing pointer. So I verify tdc and touch up the mark with a flat punch and paint it silver then I rotate the engine over to the 20 degree mark and on the outside of the pulley I make a new mark with the punch at 0 . So now I can go up to 40 without issue, quick and simple even if not pretty.

Ported vacuum is NOT a smog era thing...... They used ported vacuum on 1957 chevy 283's

Totally agree, it is application based. So I tried full vacuum on my 85’ C20 C6P everything was set correctly and I ended up with a huge hesitation off idle. Chased that for a while never went away, plugged it back into ported, poof, no more hesitation. Not sure why but it runs great ported!

Now I’m curious. I’m gonna go play with the timing and go to manifold vacuum and see how it runs and just carburetor a little if it needs it thank you I’m Kevin Jenkins, I started driving in 1975. My first car a 1956 Chevy four-door wagon. He got wrecked in front of my dad’s house. I’m on my second one which I bought 1983 been sitting in my garage for 30 years. I think it’s time. I bought my CJ5 in 1987. I keep it running. I parked the 56 Chevy because I’m not mature enough to drive it. But I think it’s time. I have a 327 in it 11 inch clutch and a Muncie for speed.

I think what people find is that crud is unavoidable. What I'd like to see is a test on clean unused 5w30. That would really illustrate if the filtering is essential or if it a lost cause regardless.

Any Webber for a 1600 Datsun for sale use

Great video. I did something similar on the boat trailer at the river with a 1" wrench and a 1/2" wrench to measure my 2.5 inches

been there, done that, bad idea.

Well done mt friend,! Dreams do come true, if you work on them hard and long enough! Your sitting in the proof of that.

Keep us updated. I was thinking about 50/50 oil to diesel but I think what you're doing is called redneck diesel? I think it makes sense

Perfect directions. Being in the automotive machining business for over 30 years this subject has caused much grief for many people and it’s disheartening to witness when it goes south because of this simple missed step. I’ve had to leave the shop numerous times after trying to explain this over the phone. I’ve even had customers state that this is over the top and not completely necessary. The most important point you drive is making the marks permanent by cutting a groove in the balancer so that the mark can not be removed. I’ve made this mistake once by just neatly painting the proven timing mark on the dampener. A mechanic noticed the original mark that was about 15 degrees off and took it upon himself to remove the painted on mark at set timing off of the groove. To make matters worse the new remanufactured distributor ended up having extremely worn mechanical advance plates and pins allowing the timing to advance way over what it should. My light showed about 45 degrees of advance when the problem made it back to my shop. At full advance the engine was actually 60-65 degrees. The mechanic advance springs were also allowing this advance to take place at very low rpm. It made city driving a nightmare for the owner. What made it worse is that the reference mark made by positive stop was nowhere to be found. Doing this job in a fully restored vehicle made it into and overrated experience. Cranking a fully assembled engine by hand in the car up against a positive stop isn’t recommended. I literally painted myself into that corner. Learned a lesson then and there. Wasn’t like i didn’t own a milling machine and rotary table to do the job right the first time….. It makes it a huge struggle to diagnose ignition timing issues when the timing reference is not proven. It’s all a big question in this situation. Timing it by ear doesn’t work when everything is not like it should be. Nice information!

Excellent. There are websites that will let you print a timing tape for your damper. Glue it on after checking the accuracy of TDC mark, and cover with satin clear. Done deal.

Good info here. However it only covers the idle, while ignoring max turns on the mixture screw. Transition, air bleeds, emulsion tubes, main jets, chokes. I find I can get a more precise idle mixture with a colortune.

Awesome. I'll try it. Curious, after setting total timing as you mentioned (36°), Do you ever find the scenario where you have no more idle speed and mixture screw adjustments left to reduce the higher RPM (to an acceptable Idle) , that you now have to retard the Mechanical timing to compensate for a ideal idle speed? I just would hate to go from 14-17°, down to 8°. Feel like id be robbing the total timing value when the VA is no longer a factor when driving around. Thanks.

Not as cut and dried as emission era either. Plenty pre emission cars ran ported. Plenty emission cars then ran ported until X engine temp then swith to manifold. Some ran a retard cannister during warmup, ported at normal operating temp and manifold at high temp OR with AC on. So many different scenarios.

Nice work Eric, I hope you have a great time with that thing!

Simply the best video on topic...way too much STUPID confrontation on topic

If you will fab up an idle speed screw on the center shaft of the linkage and then remove the 2 idle speed adjusting screws from the carbs you will then only have to adjust the length of the down rods to set the synchronization. After this mod any adjustment of the idle speed will not throw off the synchronization. Multi cylinder motorcycles have been doing it this way since the early 70s. It’s crazy that dual carb automobile setups have not copied the motorcycle technology.

Very well done I think this ends the debate.

Good video and good explanation, thanks.

Hi Eric. I was in car repair 50 years. Seldom see many uses for fifty terminal except in two speed radiator fan apppications. Since retiring I work in mowers. See a lot of use on mowers in the safety controls used to kill engine. I have twisted that fifth spade off when not used. Also there are a lot of diodes used to protect computer controlled circuits. No need on the example you gave. I was taught “Relay uses small current switch to control High current load”. Very good video explaining the purposes. Thanks. Del

Good video. It really does depend on application. My 79 F350 has a built .30 mild cam with 4 BBL and it needs manifold for a good clean idle. The only thing I’d say is stop adjusting your idle with the idle screw. You set idle with timing. Set the transfer slot to a square on your carb and check it by using a vacuum guage on the ported vacuum port of the carb. It should always read 0. Then you can adjust idle and mixture as needed

Nicely explained Eric, thanks!

we need to consider the application. At high altitude, we typically use manifold vacuum for a stock, daily driver. Eliminate the accumulator and let's see how your A/C and heat behave!! This is always a good laugh!!

👍👍

Finally a good video I can understand 👍👍

Thanks for your help! I’ve been seeing a lot of different views on this topic. I’ve been running a fairly high performance engine for years, and I’ve always tried the trusted ported vacuum. I’ve always believed that my engines could make a bunch more horsepower. I’m starting to believe that straight manifold vacuum, could make a big difference. I’ve been setting my initial, and mechanical advance at around 36 degrees, and have always seemed to have low, low end power. That’s why this manifold vacuum thing seems like it might make more sense. Heck! I’ve even drilled holes in my primary throttle blades, to get my transfer slots in order. I realized, that drilling the plates bumped my idle up as much as changing my vacuum, from ported to manifold. I have another 750 without drilled plates, and I’m gonna give manifold vacuum a shot. My engine runs around 230 degrees in traffic, and nobody knows why. I’m talking to friends who race, have street rods, and oval track. This is definitely something that I’m gonna look into!! Thanks!

Nice collection!

🏁🏁🏁🏁🏁

Hi, very useful video, thanks. Is fuel level critical for idling? I'm struggling to keep the engine running below 1200 revs which I think is in the transition zone. I can't see any fuel at the bottom of the idle tube. Should the jet be below the fuel level? I've got 3 45's on a straight 6 Jaguar 3.8. Thanks again.

Good video mate. I am trying to set my distributor back down in the hole and now my engine builder has made it to the next round so I can't ask him timing questions. On a Ford 351 should the distributor trigger be set to cylinder 1 with same cylinder at TDC or a little prior that like 10 degrees advanced? There are so many variables. I have a Mallory Unilite.

Thanks for showing me the differance

Dear Sir I’m still left confused 😕 as I’m going to fit a vacuum distributor to my 1938 side valve 4 cylinder car because at the moment it doesn’t have one only the bob weight , now the carb has a ported take off type blank on it so I could fit to either manifold or port and looking on you tube has only confused me even more 😢 what would your advice be please?

Very well described! Thank you!

One of the best explanations regarding this debate I have seen. Thanks for taking the time to share your knowledge and perspective.

Really good info

great learning curve for me that only started 2weeks ago with my twin dellortos 40s fitted myself tuned it my self not running 100% but im getting there as im learning by watching videos havent got that type of money to send it away for a proper tune but im learning and teaching myself how to tune it and to get it up and running 100% thanks again for your content was very helpfull to me as a young teenager 22years💯🤝running it on mk3 jetta 1.6carb

I dont hear no wath The fjeul pressor you have? I Have Dellorto Carborators 48mm Chevy 356cui.3psi are The max. I run real Street Corvette car 1992 10 sek car 210kmt near..1600kg car No no transbrake!! Even Weely inte start.Yes thes are trou.Still havThe Corvette build 1995-96 Twin Turbo Efi Vems. But match Trouble hope I can come out 2025.

That a cool dragster! Datsun powerd! I have built lots of Datsun engines over the years! Great little engines, really good information.

great vid, ran a pair of 45,s on my old mk2 lotus Cortina ,and 50,s on a old mk3 ford Capri ( uk) , great carbs always gave great power and sound

Very cool! I’m surprised you chose to cut the frame vs modifying the header. I’m sure there was a reason though… 😁 rare unicorn header. Just kidding but very cool project!

Great video. Another addition to the great ported/manifold debate😁. It comes down to giving an engine the timing it wants. On a mild cam engine, either could be made to work with an adjustable vaccum can and a curved mechanical advance. Depends on the engine, weight, stall speed, cruising rpm. On a choppy low vaccum cam engine, manifold would be a better choice. Needs more timing at idle. You can set you initial as high as you can without causing kickback on the starter and use the vaccum advance to give you the rest of the timing you need to idle. Then adjust the mechanical advance curve. At WOT vaccum advance doesn't matter only max timing (initial+mechanical). At light throttle and cruise the vaccum and mechanical have to be adjusted for an optimal curve.

Why is the engine tilted over to the right by a few degrees?

Great video . Thank you. All the best from Scotland Lotusman .

Pretty nice looking Go cart. ......But how am I going to fit?

Oh ya. Dont forget Polishing, lots and lots of polishing!

Welding, bending, fitting, drilling. Mmmm I can relate. Wish I could be there to help. You have a gift Eric. As you said "now you get to do the fun stuff" VHT sented candles! You lift you loose! Hold onto that dream my friend. Good job!