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No Car Left Behind
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Добавлен 17 ноя 2023
Видео
WIRING IN A RELAY. WHY AND HOW.
Просмотров 16714 дней назад
How to make switches live longer. Cuz bitches love switches.
MY HOARD OF CARS.
Просмотров 33828 дней назад
Brown paper packages tied up with strings. These are a few of my favorite things.
FLYWHEEL LIGHTENING AND RESURFACE
Просмотров 3954 месяца назад
Super busy lately! Getting parts ready for the balance shop.
Datsun L18 revival Block prep Part 1
Просмотров 2245 месяцев назад
Getting the block prepped for cleaning.
Datsun Dragster Teardown Part two
Просмотров 3516 месяцев назад
Getting it ready to finish the welding and get this thing done.
Bracket racing a 20 second turd.
Просмотров 1356 месяцев назад
I'm still trying to get Freda the Fairmont dialed in. Not a good performance but always a good time.
Tuning Dual Webers, Mikunis, Dellortos, Solex SU Carbs.
Просмотров 3,2 тыс.7 месяцев назад
My quick method of tuning dual carb setups.
Dragster engine run and channel intro (2.0)
Просмотров 449 месяцев назад
Dragster engine run and channel intro (2.0)
Simply the best video on topic...way too much STUPID confrontation on topic
Thanks for watching!
If you will fab up an idle speed screw on the center shaft of the linkage and then remove the 2 idle speed adjusting screws from the carbs you will then only have to adjust the length of the down rods to set the synchronization. After this mod any adjustment of the idle speed will not throw off the synchronization. Multi cylinder motorcycles have been doing it this way since the early 70s. It’s crazy that dual carb automobile setups have not copied the motorcycle technology.
Yep, the automakers do it that way as well. My Datsun wagon is setup that way. As was my 240z that I sold. Unfortunately the cheap linkage manufacturers never got the memo. Thank you for watching and the comment!
Very well done I think this ends the debate.
Thank you for watching!
Good video and good explanation, thanks.
Thanks for watching!
Hi Eric. I was in car repair 50 years. Seldom see many uses for fifty terminal except in two speed radiator fan apppications. Since retiring I work in mowers. See a lot of use on mowers in the safety controls used to kill engine. I have twisted that fifth spade off when not used. Also there are a lot of diodes used to protect computer controlled circuits. No need on the example you gave. I was taught “Relay uses small current switch to control High current load”. Very good video explaining the purposes. Thanks. Del
For sure, many more uses than what I skimmed over. Thank you for the comment and for watching! Cheers.
Good video. It really does depend on application. My 79 F350 has a built .30 mild cam with 4 BBL and it needs manifold for a good clean idle. The only thing I’d say is stop adjusting your idle with the idle screw. You set idle with timing. Set the transfer slot to a square on your carb and check it by using a vacuum guage on the ported vacuum port of the carb. It should always read 0. Then you can adjust idle and mixture as needed
Nicely explained Eric, thanks!
Thanks John.
we need to consider the application. At high altitude, we typically use manifold vacuum for a stock, daily driver. Eliminate the accumulator and let's see how your A/C and heat behave!! This is always a good laugh!!
👍👍
Finally a good video I can understand 👍👍
Thank you for watching!
Thanks for your help! I’ve been seeing a lot of different views on this topic. I’ve been running a fairly high performance engine for years, and I’ve always tried the trusted ported vacuum. I’ve always believed that my engines could make a bunch more horsepower. I’m starting to believe that straight manifold vacuum, could make a big difference. I’ve been setting my initial, and mechanical advance at around 36 degrees, and have always seemed to have low, low end power. That’s why this manifold vacuum thing seems like it might make more sense. Heck! I’ve even drilled holes in my primary throttle blades, to get my transfer slots in order. I realized, that drilling the plates bumped my idle up as much as changing my vacuum, from ported to manifold. I have another 750 without drilled plates, and I’m gonna give manifold vacuum a shot. My engine runs around 230 degrees in traffic, and nobody knows why. I’m talking to friends who race, have street rods, and oval track. This is definitely something that I’m gonna look into!! Thanks!
When I tried ported in my Z car, the temp went way up. I deleted the vac can and just run mechancal at 38 degrees now. Good luck.
Nice collection!
🏁🏁🏁🏁🏁
Hi, very useful video, thanks. Is fuel level critical for idling? I'm struggling to keep the engine running below 1200 revs which I think is in the transition zone. I can't see any fuel at the bottom of the idle tube. Should the jet be below the fuel level? I've got 3 45's on a straight 6 Jaguar 3.8. Thanks again.
The only time float level effects run ability is when it is so out of adjustment that it's either flooding or starving. The orifice that supplies fuel at idle is under the throttle blades, so you won't see anything. If you have the idle adjustment screws turned all the way out and it still idles high, I would look for vacuum leaks or check the advance springs/weights in the distributor. Good luck.
@NoCarLeftBehind Thanks, I'm getting there. Your advice on the linkages led me to the centre carb which wasn't closing fully. Also, I found the two chokes on 1 & 3 were out of balance using the synchronising tool. Fortunately, these 45's are fitted with the extra screws to adjust each choke independently. I'll need to keep on top of these babies!
Good video mate. I am trying to set my distributor back down in the hole and now my engine builder has made it to the next round so I can't ask him timing questions. On a Ford 351 should the distributor trigger be set to cylinder 1 with same cylinder at TDC or a little prior that like 10 degrees advanced? There are so many variables. I have a Mallory Unilite.
Yes. I usually put a sharpee mark on the body with the cap on, lined up with the number 1 plug wire. Put the engine on number 1 tdc and drop the dist in. I believe on 351's, the rotor will be at 1:00. then set the timing with a light.
@@NoCarLeftBehind but on the balancer he painted on 0 then 10 and 20 advance and not sure where that will be when spark fires on 1 according to dist.?
That depends on how much swing the dist has. Is your timing mark a pointer or a scale? The timing at idle isn't as important as total advance at speed. If you have a scale timing mark, run the engine up to full advance, (3000 rpm ish) and set it at 15btdc at the 20 degree mark for a total of 35 degrees BTDC. That would be a good starting point. I also have another video on finding 36 BTDC.
@@NoCarLeftBehind I'm afraid that I was previously a no-nothing consumer and just went to a job so my engine guy did not teach me anything other than what oil to use. I wish I had asked him more questions but I had no reason to. I overpaid a racer guy to get the thing running. When my water turned slightly acidic corrosion started taking over front timing cover and seeping, so I took the balancer off and cleaned all things there, then applied fresh paint where he had left 3 marks that seem about 10 degrees from one another. I just replaced the wires and primed the engine, replaced oil pan and pickup so nothing is as it was.
@@NoCarLeftBehind I wish that I had taken meticulous notes and taken pictures but i didn't
Thanks for showing me the differance
Thank you for watching!
Dear Sir I’m still left confused 😕 as I’m going to fit a vacuum distributor to my 1938 side valve 4 cylinder car because at the moment it doesn’t have one only the bob weight , now the carb has a ported take off type blank on it so I could fit to either manifold or port and looking on you tube has only confused me even more 😢 what would your advice be please?
While I'm not well versed in side valve/ flat head engines, as long as you are careful with the timing, you should be able to try both methods and see which it seems to like better. It might not want any more than just the mechanical advance. Most of that era would have a hard line threaded into the source. Good luck.
After some thought I have some questions. Did the car come originally with the vac can and was removed at some point? It's probably more of a city/country road car than interstate car? Do you know where the total advance should be or the initial advance only? I'm thinking since it is probably a low RPM engine, it might benefit from ported. But if you know its total advance happy spot, and have a timing light that has advance capability, you could run no vac can and once set at the correct total advance it would give it more initial which might give it lower under hood temps. If you know its total advance happy place you can try any combo.
hi & thanks for your reply, these were a low end/ cheap cars and the engine was of a very early 1930 designs low revving long stroke engine of 1,100 cc and they never had a vacuum fitted like the more expensive models like MG or Triumph cars of the same period, the type of distributor I’ve acquired is the type that turns the whole distributor as the base plate inside are fixed, it’s a 40 bhp engine 😅
Very well described! Thank you!
Thank you for watching.
One of the best explanations regarding this debate I have seen. Thanks for taking the time to share your knowledge and perspective.
Thank you for the comment and support!
Really good info
Thank you for watching.
great learning curve for me that only started 2weeks ago with my twin dellortos 40s fitted myself tuned it my self not running 100% but im getting there as im learning by watching videos havent got that type of money to send it away for a proper tune but im learning and teaching myself how to tune it and to get it up and running 100% thanks again for your content was very helpfull to me as a young teenager 22years💯🤝running it on mk3 jetta 1.6carb
Glad to hear it helped. Congrats on getting it up and running. Keep at it. Thank you for your support.
I dont hear no wath The fjeul pressor you have? I Have Dellorto Carborators 48mm Chevy 356cui.3psi are The max. I run real Street Corvette car 1992 10 sek car 210kmt near..1600kg car No no transbrake!! Even Weely inte start.Yes thes are trou.Still havThe Corvette build 1995-96 Twin Turbo Efi Vems. But match Trouble hope I can come out 2025.
My fuel pressure is at about 3 1/4 psi. Good luck with your project and thanks for watching.
That a cool dragster! Datsun powerd! I have built lots of Datsun engines over the years! Great little engines, really good information.
It's hard to beat an L series Datsun! Thanks for watching.
great vid, ran a pair of 45,s on my old mk2 lotus Cortina ,and 50,s on a old mk3 ford Capri ( uk) , great carbs always gave great power and sound
Nothing beats that sound! Thanks for watching.
Very cool! I’m surprised you chose to cut the frame vs modifying the header. I’m sure there was a reason though… 😁 rare unicorn header. Just kidding but very cool project!
I was on the fence about that too, but I have sooo much time in the header, I chose to cut the small diagonal bar and modify it to bolt back in. Thank you for your comment and support.
Great video. Another addition to the great ported/manifold debate😁. It comes down to giving an engine the timing it wants. On a mild cam engine, either could be made to work with an adjustable vaccum can and a curved mechanical advance. Depends on the engine, weight, stall speed, cruising rpm. On a choppy low vaccum cam engine, manifold would be a better choice. Needs more timing at idle. You can set you initial as high as you can without causing kickback on the starter and use the vaccum advance to give you the rest of the timing you need to idle. Then adjust the mechanical advance curve. At WOT vaccum advance doesn't matter only max timing (initial+mechanical). At light throttle and cruise the vaccum and mechanical have to be adjusted for an optimal curve.
Exactly! Too many variables to only use one method. Thanks for watching and the comment.
Why is the engine tilted over to the right by a few degrees?
The Datsun L series engines are tilted to the right in their cars. Z22/Z24's are tilted to the left. the adapter was made the same to keep the carbs level. Thank you for watching!
Great video . Thank you. All the best from Scotland Lotusman .
Thanks for your support!
Pretty nice looking Go cart. ......But how am I going to fit?
Not this one. I barely fit in it. You can race the Fairmont.
Oh ya. Dont forget Polishing, lots and lots of polishing!
Polishing a turd!
Welding, bending, fitting, drilling. Mmmm I can relate. Wish I could be there to help. You have a gift Eric. As you said "now you get to do the fun stuff" VHT sented candles! You lift you loose! Hold onto that dream my friend. Good job!
Thank you, Brother..
great video, could a plugged idol jet cause the airflow to be way out of balance on one carb?
@@1970ronin the idle jet won’t effect air flow too much. The engine is really just an air pump. So it will still draw the same vacuum. There is an air bypass that will balance the individual throats of each carb.
@@NoCarLeftBehind so I should probably check the air bleed screw. Thanks for the help
I hate to sound like a crusty old fart, but the modern parts-changers masquerading as mechanics could learn a lot from your channel. Keep it up, Eric!
Thank you, Sir! Thank you for the support.
Seems to me that I once saw a green Dodge Dart doing the same thing at SIR. Knocking out alot of cars out. He was just consistant. Fun to watch him leave slow. The other guy having to watch and then only to break out. I also remember doing a run at that same track in a old ford, Me and this guy that was riding along. While we staged and eating pizza. A blistering 74 MPH. Those were some good times, I miss them! Keep it up Britain. We all are with you!!
I have enough time in this car to eat a whole piece of pizza and make a sandwich. this car traps at a blistering 67mph. Thank you for the good times and the support.
Simple, straight forward. Thanks for making this video.
Thank you for supporting my Channel!
Awesome to watch a carb rebuild from start to finish! I would love to see more on how to tune the jets and everything for use.
Hi Austin! Thanks for watching. I'm hoping to do a tuning video soon. I appreciate the input.
you need tdc range in degrees .
Hi Null. Most timing markers have before and after 10 to 15 degrees. This just picks up where they leave off. Thank you for watching!
Great information!❤
468 CI time.
That’s what I’m thinking too!
What a find!!
Absolutely unbelievable how time can stop for these
I have a question? What is the difference between a bracket and a tab? nice work though. the shop has come a long way, equipment wise. agree with GullWinginnMoclips. Great job Eric!!!
Nice work, Eric! If I may be so bold, you might want to reduce the volume of the music or raise the volume of your dialog. They are far apart... at least on my pooter.
Thank you sir. I've been struggling with picture and sound since day one. Nothing I buy seems to work. I'm still using my cell phone. It will get better.
I am amazed with your welding skills! You must have had a good teacher. More power to you. Keep the videos rolling.
Ya who was that guy?
The videos alway amaze me!
Great video! What are you making there?
Hey Eric...good start. If you're looking for some critique, photos are solid. However, I suggest you keep the "Fonts" consistent throughout and allow a little more time to read each one. Also, it may help to bump them up off the bottom of the page a tad as it draws your attention away from the subject when trying to read them. My two cents worth.
Thank you for the feedback Buddy. I agree, lots of room for improvement.
Hey Eric! John Kelly here... nice ice stuff!
Hi John! Thanks for watching. Much appreciated.