Видео

So the "grey ghost" in this video was modelled well, however, the black widow II model is superior. Video to come.

I can do guns and fox 1's but BVR radar is not an option with this mod.

ruclips.net/video/UHNFsGFleg8/видео.html

There are a lot of good choices out there for an XV. Some of the other Oakeshott types are more difficult to find accurate museum replicas of.

@@v4pilot331 I'm just starting my collection. I have two long swords and two sabers, two to three hundred dollar range. I've got an Albion on order but I'll have to wait another year for it. I'm watching all the videos I can.

Thanks for the reply... Maiden perfect.

You have to edit the "effect.txt" file for each bank that is giving you false input. Turn the volume down one, save the file, rinse and repeat until the false input stops. You can also download the latest firmware that is supposed to have better filtering capabilities from the Pach Store.

@@v4pilot331 Unfortunately, that was the last thing I tried, some time ago. It didn't work. That's why I asked. Didn't know there was any new firmware. I'll have to check it out. It seems strange that the volume on two different Asteria boards behave so differently.

Thanks. I wish this game was more popular. I think that has a lot to do with how they have Multiplayer setup.

I think about the track every time I drive by.

Just tight enough for the application. For example... if you are going to be heavy dueling, cinch it down tight, but don't overtighten it to the point it deforms the blade or pierces the polycarbonate. For all other applications, just snug up the retention screw just hard enough that when you swing the saber it is not wobbling at the emitter during light tippy-tappy action. Probably not the best explanation but it should suffice.

It was a plug-in I downloaded for free from the racing department website... there are tons of goodies available for Assetto Corsa and other simulators there. I was able to grab Riverside International Speedway (now a Wal Mart parking lot) and Willow Springs as well. Done track days at Willow, so it was a trip simulating it with Bandit1... see my other videos.

@@v4pilot331 Awesome! I'll have to try it! Thanks!

If your saber has a CFX/Asteria 2.X/D3 soundboard then yes, drag and drop it into the main directory where your existing fonts are. If you have a Proffie board, you will also have edit the .cfg file associating the font file location, blade effects and any music tracks as well. Depending on your technical abilities, you may need to commission someone to do this for you with the Proffie board.

@@v4pilot331 Wow, Proffie yes...sounds in depth! I appreciate the reply! Thank you.

I believe this is intentional so you can finger over the guard should you choose... gives better tip control at the expense of your finger. Later longswords and rapiers have finger guards integrated into the hilt for added protection.

@@v4pilot331 thanks

Yes on tip drag.

Not selling it... it is just for my personal use. The finale music was ripped and encoded by me, cut and spliced at certain intervals to provide seamless loopback on my Asteria boards... Being a .wav file the soundtrack will play on either platform. I've already noticed a few other RUclipsrs who copied my example being they spliced the song in the same spots and used the same bankswitch clip "Are you a Jedi"... Imitation is the sincerest form of flattery. One guy even claimed to have worked on it for a "couple of weeks" which I found hilarious on multiple levels. My original video (ruclips.net/video/x25NWH2zYK0/видео.html) predated his and if he worked on it for "two weeks" that means he would have had to of started it before the final episode aired lol. It also took me only a few minutes to set this up for my CFX based sabers. My Proffie took a bit longer to get right maybe a few hours or so being I rewrote much of the config file. My young Jedi friend Lord Rekkiad is recreating a "Mando" or "LSM" style font from scratch that you will be able to purchase. He should be close to finishing it given the time past since he and I last spoke. I'll ask him.

@@v4pilot331 I'll definitely keep an eye on Rekkiad's, I'll trust your recommendation! And lol at that dude preparing it before the episode with all those soundbytes even airs. Imitation is very flattering... when credit is given where its due, of course. I think you got an awesome idea going. It's totally badass! I'mma subscribe to see what else you come up with going forward :)

I have a Proffie in another saber and indeed it is more powerful, however, the margin is not as great as one would be led to believe. The Asteria 2.X boards are very good and do just about everything a Proffie will do for your "average" user. The Asteria boards are closer related to the CFX in functionality and therefore are much simpler to setup and update. I would not recommend a Proffie for the "average" user as they won't be able to customize their saber unless they are tech savvy and become proficient using Arduino and Zadig... not to mention .txt file editing. None of these effected my buying decision, however. My Fallen (FO) was a first run and the Proffie wasn't available as an option back then. I already had a Bors with a Asteria 2.0 and I quickly learned how to be very proficient at setting it up... so I knew what to expect with my (FO) Asteria 2.5 and that it was a really good piece of kit. My (FO) is one of the top two sabers I own. I have much more recent videos of the (FO) in my channel library that really showcase it's abilities.

@@v4pilot331 thank you!! I just bought my first saber from The Pach Store with the Asteria X Neopixel option after reading your response. I am not a coder at all or that tech savvy! I think Asteria is perfect for me!

I got my saber and love it!! Hey I was wondering if you could help me. I did something with the buttons, and on one of my fonts the blades (I have a Darth Maul type saber) just keep changing colors. They keep going through all colors. The font used to be a beautiful fire red/orange. I tried the main button & aux button function but the blades still keep going through all the colors. Can you tell me how to correct this?

Yes

Not at all... make sure the file you are using is named "ColorSwitch" and is a .wav file and is either at set at 22050 or do the latest firmware update to open up other frequencies. Most common being 44100... should work just fine.

Same saber... I did actually end up weathering it, even though I said I wasn't going to lol. I'm about to throw another update it's way. It never ends...

ruclips.net/video/TlJfYER60T0/видео.html

It looks to me like there are quite a few... I'm not exactly thrilled with the budget Goth 3d Chassis used in my run on an $800 saber. They use a Goth supreme in the Hero supreme, which is reason enough to get the beef supreme. I believe you can unscrew the hilt from both the grenade and rear section behind the control box being pogo stick pcb's are used to make the connections... while I can't do any of that. If I try to remove the grenade section, I'll be twisting wire leads to both the emitter and control box pulling the solder joints apart. The biggest drawback to my saber run was the let down on the chassis and ability to change the battery quickly. My run was also forced to run a smaller 24mm speaker in a removable speaker module with pogo connections... not my favorite way to handle the internals honestly. The other bummer to my run was no shtok works style pcb at the emmiter with simple RGB leds... something I was led to believe it would come with by someone at Korbanth... not going to name names. They used a shallower pcb in mine to give the blade more grip in the emitter... which I could understand if it was a combat saber and not a thin neck show saber. They provided the wrong type of neopixel blade for the application (a heavy dueling grade) and it was also was built INCORRECTLY not leaving an extra LED at the top, so the tip does not illuminate... at all. The red control box LED failed in my saber because of a jagged solder joint wore through the electrical tape and made contact with the copper control box lid. When I cracked it open the tape was melted with a hole through it lol. I can't get anyone at Korbanth to respond regarding the LED. All this being said I will NOT be buying another Korbanth/Shamino's workshop product. Here is a video of my run... ruclips.net/video/UK1equAq1MA/видео.html