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Sorry for the late reply, I figured I would still respond in case anyone comes across this. You'd want to check the datasheet for the chip, that will tell you which pin needs to be powered and the voltage. For the MPS chips I believe you only need a 3.3v supply (it's been a bit since I've done this, haven't fixed anything the past few months). Yes, you can do scl, sda, gnd and power directly from the bench power supply. It's easiest to just put the IC on the card and then attach a wire for power, scl, sda

@WasatchElectronics Hi Thanks for reply. I did like that. But the problem was IC that was delivered from Ali. It was already corrupted. So I used another chip and everything was fine. There should be some miliamps drawn by IC, and that is a sign of working IC.

Hey there, sorry I never replied! I'm not on here much currently. I started out doing basic repairs on phones, computers, tablets, etc. (screen swaps, battery replacements, hard drive installations, and other basic stuff), then gradually got myself into soldering various things. After that I taught myself how to micro-solder, and then I dove head first into fixing graphics cards. I had to spend some time learning electronics (still not the best, I have an electronics book sitting on my desk that I'll get around to one of these days...), how graphics card circuitry works, and then more advanced micro-soldering (bga work, qfn packages, trace repair, etc. I also used to do lots of damaged PCB repair, that's my favorite kind of work). I've been doing this type of repair for ~3.5 years, so just a gradual build of new skills over that time period! For the schematics (pdf's) I typically just open them in Chrome. Occasionally I'll come across one that doesn't like to be searched for whatever reason, so I use PDF-XChange to open those; that's what you see in the video

I don't know as much about laptops as I do about graphics cards, but - It might actually be fine. 19v sounds fine for a laptop, that's the voltage coming from the charger before it gets used by other converters or mosfets to power everything else. The processor is likely just a very low resistance, which is normal. On graphics cards for instance, the main power rail for the processor typically reads well under an ohm, probably .2-.5 depending on the card. Try programming that 2940A and see what happens.

@@WasatchElectronics 19V at the coils of cpu! should be max 1.2V

I dont have the device to program the QFN I dont thing its good idea to buy one if there is chance the cpu is dead @@WasatchElectronics

@@MLS.22 Oh 19v at the coils of the CPU. Ouch, that thing is definitely dead now :(

They must be only including anti sag bracket on select SKUs. I have both 3080 & 3090 Aorus Master sku's. They do not come with a anti sag bracket. Mind you aorus master /extreme sku's are their top tier range and their not cheap. For them to include a bracket shows that they are aware that their GPU'S are cracking. Really they should make the PCB more durable. Back in the day they always used to tout how great their PCBS were. They used to run a marketing campaign called Ultra durable PCB talking about how many layers of traces they had over their competitors. Tbh their competitors marketed similar campaigns too. To me it does sound like they have cheaped out on the material used in the graphics cards. I hope they do make a better durable revision next time

Thank you! There's not a lot of graphics card repair information out there unfortunately, although it's getting better. I'm a mix of self-taught and getting help from others that knew/know more than me. I've had to (and still have to) do a lot of discovery on my own, especially when new issues arise that no one has seen before. Graphics card repair is probably 80% diagnosis 10% soldering, with a few exceptions

My video was uploaded two days after Jayztwocents' video, for the record. NWR has some videos on repairing these, but not a video sitting down and talking about the issue quite like this. (I love NWR, he's a friend of mine and does great work) My video may have been a bit redundant sure, but there was also a lot of information not talked about in other videos (at least at the time). So no, not clickbait in any way. If I do another video like this again maybe I'll do some extra research and dive into more directly related topics, like pcb composition in this case. Thanks for the feedback :)

shud i bought the 4070 ti super gigabyte gaming oc or Windforce/eagle one. rest msi and asus are expensive in india and i dont like inno 3d , zotacs , galax or colorful , im upgrading from Nvidia Rtx 3070 FE

Gigabyte is saying NO to honoring their warranties

If you are trying to kick crack, there's always the Rob Ford Center.

They actually are functional, luckily. I haven't personally repaired any of these cards since I attempted two at the beginning of the year, I've deemed them not worth the time. If I ever come across a cracked pcb board I now just take the components and swap to a good pcb. The problem is finding a good pcb though, since a lot are cracked, and you can't just order pcb's from somewhere. If it's something like a 3090 or 4090 it could still be economical to repair. It has to be the right pcb though with the right crack. Gigabyte likely wouldn't be worth it because of how badly they crack, but I've seen a few Asus pcb's with cracks in the same spot be fixed with a few hours of labor. Luckily those don't have nearly as many traces in the area, and their boards have a better design so the cracks are usually pretty small.

I think the problem is that we're running into the issue of needing to pump more power into things to get more processing power, which means larger coolers. At some point (basically now) the world is going to have to figure out some alternative to the current construction or design of processors, or something that will allow for better power efficiency and less loss in the form of heat. Cards can't keep getting bigger and bigger. The same issue is being seen with processors.

Probably a decent chunk unfortunately

That would be nice, but the cards being delivered in a separate package (for prebuilts) and with supports from factory (some cards have this now) would be enough to basically eliminate the issue

Thank you! Sure, I can definitely help. It would probably be easier if you join this Discord discord.gg/GZR7DK5g and ask about it there. I'm sure that myself or someone else can look for a schematic that matches or is close enough, and help you figure out the component and the value!

@@WasatchElectronics Thank you very much! I'll forward the info to my son and let him post it on Discord. Thanks again!

shud i bought the 4070 ti super gigabyte gaming oc or Windforce/eagle one. rest msi and asus are expensive in india and i dont like inno 3d , zotacs , galax or colorful , im upgrading from Nvidia Rtx 3070 FE

Thank you! Mostly cards with back plates being tossed around with other electronics or cards without back plates, when nothing has protection. Either that or just someone being careless and scraping it against something, etc.

I don't have any way to do that, and I don't know if I'm allowed to, sorry. It's pretty easily available through forums and repair discord groups

Of course, thank you! Hopefully I'll have some more coming soon. Unfortunately it likely won't hold for long, I start up school again at the beginning of next year and won't have much time to make videos for quite a while. I'll do my best to get something out here and there, though! Hopefully something more on the technical/advanced side, instead of just basic repairs

The windforce doesnt come with a support bracket I believe. The Eagle would be the way to go for sure.

shud i bought the 4070 ti super gigabyte gaming oc or Windforce/eagle one. rest msi and asus are expensive in india and i dont like inno 3d , zotacs , galax or colorful , im upgrading from Nvidia Rtx 3070 FE

I'd have to take a look at the specific circuit, but no EN (which comes from PGOOD of the chip for the previous power rail) usually means one of three things (there are a few more depending on the circuit but this is where I'd start): - The pullup resistor that's supposed to power that circuit is bad - You're missing the power that's supposed to power the circuit through the pullup resistor (3v3_aux or a similar secondary 1.8v/3.3v rail) - PGOOD is actually being pulled down by the controller or chip of the previous power rail. This means the voltage is technically there, but it's going straight to ground through the controller/chip PGOOD is usually what's called an open drain output, which means that it doesn't actually output any voltage (the pullup resistor is what supplies voltage for the circuit), it can only pull it down to gnd, or release it. If you have 0 or near 0 ohms on that circuit (at EN of the rail with no voltage, assuming you're checking the next rail in the sequence. Cards have an order of which their power rails turn on) with the card powered on, then either the controller/chip of the previous rail is fried, or the chip is detecting that something isn't right so it's pulling that PGOOD circuit to ground instead of releasing it. Usually the latter. This is where it can get a bit tricky, if you're lucky it's going to be an obviously blown chip or resistor. If there's no visual damage, you have to find the datasheet for the chip online, and go through various pins to make sure that everything is good. If you have power output from the chip and it's the correct voltage, then it's typically going to be something to do with the feedback or current monitoring circuitry. E.g. the chip thinks it's getting 3v back when it should only be seeing 700mV, or it's seeing nothing back when it should be getting .9v (these are arbitrary values by the way). It could be another number of things, but that's up to you to figure out! Everyone thinks that graphics card repair is difficult because of the soldering, BGA work, etc. While this can be true, the people who are good at graphics card repair had to learn to read circuitry and figure out how circuits are supposed to work (or that they're not working right), in order to fix problems that aren't obvious. And as I always tell people, don't just go swapping parts. Learn how to diagnose a circuit or chip instead, and you'll be much more efficient in the future. Not to mention you won't waste time soldering when that may not be the issue. Swapping or removing things should only be a last resort. Good luck :)