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Good luck finding good replacement parts!

@@ghccrtube5007 New old stock on ebay, already ordered.

It's possible but I've never seen that combination of problems. If the aperture mechanism magnet isn't holding, the aperture will always stop down to the smallest lens opening and so the exposures will be very underexposed and the autofocus won't work. There might be more going on than the sequence gear problem.

Thank you for adding your comment. Attention to detail is important.

The metal finger contacts are on a plate that has broken free from the plastic gear. The screw acts to mechanically hold the plate onto the plastic gear. Super glue could be used instead but is less likely to hold long term

@ghccrtube5007 thanks for letting me know! I'll try that super glue method.

@ghccrtube5007 I'd also like to add, when I use my camera, I don't seem to see any any issues with the shutter. It goes up and down but I still get an error. Do you know what the issue may be? Would it still be the contact that needs to be held down? Or something else?

This video will help you disassemble the lens almost completely to clean the coke as well as replace the flex. After it dries coke is very sticky and corrosive so it's a good idea to remove it completely. The flex will be simple compared to cleaning. Good luck!

@@ghccrtube5007 well i manage step one , disassemble , and cleaning , thanks to you ,, i also have that flex thing broken , i think is for the vr function , rigth , i will not put it back , now remain to see if i will be able to put it back together well , :)

@@darkphotographer Attention to detail is important. Take your time and you'll get there

@@ghccrtube5007 i think i will mange it , bigest problem are tho tini flex cables hope i put them right :) and still af and diafragm working , and remember wear each screw go ,

The internal memory battery is hidden away on the "rewind" end of the camera behind the DC IN port - not easily accessed. The good news is that I haven't had to replace one in the 15 or so years the D80 has been out. More likely is that it needs to be refreshed by the larger, chargeable battery. Charge the main battery fully then put it into the camera and leave it a couple of days. If that doesn't work then you can start the process of digging the memory battery out.

​@@ghccrtube5007 I tried this actually. I bought a new battery and installed it. I left it on for about a day but it still isn't charged. The clock and err message will stop blinking and stay solid until I try to take a photo. Then it starts to blink again

You might try Ebay.com for the button or LeicaCameraUSA.com but I haven't been able to get Leica parts for years.

Sorry for the delay - hurricane cleanup is in progress. Thanks for commenting. Don't worry about the spring fingers - it's not that critical... but needed. Solder might interfere with the focus lever as space is tight. Replacing the flex and reassembly shouldn't take more than an hour. Good luck!

It's 1/8" dia 2" long cross point I've have for years

👍

Same design as 70 -200 once you get to the USM motor ( 5:00 ) so the same technique should work. Be careful to note the orientation of any "eccentric" collars you might have to remove to get to this point and reinstall them in the same orientation to avoid focus errors.

@@ghccrtube5007 Thanks for the reply & advice!

The "slip clutch" (5:20) has to be right before the AF can work. Aside from manual focus, if AF isn't working, the armature (5:45) might have to be polished with 2000 grit sandpaper. There's a good chance that a new felt bed will not only fix the manual focus but also the AF. Good luck!

If you're certain you resoldered the 4 connections on the shutter at 12:23, some new shutters might need their spring tension adjusted - if you get no exposure on those speeds, the closing blade could be faster than the opening blade by a small amount. It's a factory adjustment defect. Without expensive test equipment you can try carefully backing up the tension on the closing blade a quarter turn then retesting.

Don't worry, it won't damage anything .... the aperture just won't work. You can go back into it and correct it.

thank you very much. this is very helpful.

Yes, that's frequently a problem with either loose screws (if you're lucky) or a broken cast aluminum subchassis - the shiny internal barrel. If it hasn't been dropped it's probably loose screws. Good Luck!

The FEE error could be because the lens is not set to the smallest aperture - F/16 or F/22. That can cause other functions to not work. Or it could have a more serious electronic problem. Thanks for commenting

oh yes I forgot "fEE" was from not on Min aperture(don't know why I said that, it was late lol:)......... yeah seems like some kind of serious electrical issue, doesn't seem like a mechanical issue, I get "Err" code as soon as I turn it on with or with out lens. Also If I try to Lock Mirror Up for censor cleaning the option is grayed out in the menu and says this option is not available.... Thanks

@@fubar4fpv As a last resort before shipping to Nikon is to try a system reset using the 2 green dots. Since it hasn't been dropped a reset might help.

tried that, a Nikon rep sent me the new firmware and that didn't work either, they said they don't service this camera anymore, will try repair myself, quite the bummer only has 42k pics and my first DSLR, Mirrorless cameras sound so nice right now lol....thanks for the help👍👍

That's good to hear! And doing the work yourself adds to the enjoyment

Glad you were able to fix the lens. Thank you for commenting.

Glad you were able to fix the lens. Thank you for your comments!

Thank you for commenting. Good to know you got it working. The rattle, like you say, is probably the image stabilizer lens. Sometimes if the lens is removed from the camera before turning the camera off, the IS doesn't have time to move the IS lens to the storage position so it floats loose. If the IS isn't damaged, putting it on the camera then turning the camera off will lock-down the IS lens. If the IS is damaged it's usually one of four posts surrounding the IS lens has broken. It can be super glued into position if you're careful.

Good to know. Thanks for your comment!

Good to know! Enjoy!

Thank you for commenting....rubbing alcohol will not damage the lens or coating and should take off any adhesive. Works well getting the remaining black adhesive off the lens barrel under the flex too.

Thanks very much for your comment - I'm sure your line of work is more strenuous and stressful, but I agree KUDOS to all who keep things working.

For the screws to snap in half, there was probably impact involved. The "hunting" back and forth indicates a loose or torn flex circuit, or the rear lens is not concentric with other elements. Check the flexes first.

Right! It just adds a physical attachment for the plate. You can save time with super glue but the results aren't as reliable. Originally the plate was held tight by a plastic post that wasn't designed for long term.

@@ghccrtube5007 Gotcha, thank you very much for both the videos and replies, I think I'll rather wait until college is out for the year so I can do this in peace, but I'll make sure to follow these!

I don't think you have a problem. The manual focus ring has a slip clutch mechanism so that the ring slips when you reach either extent. The problem described in this video is when you rotate the manual focus ring but the "distance scale" stops or intermittently pauses before continuing - or doesn't turn the scale at all.

@@ghccrtube5007 I do have the problem you described. I can't do any manual fine focusing with the focus ring.

@@JehuMcSpooran This is the fix you need

@@ghccrtube5007 Cool. I've been looking at a few other teardown videos and it looks like the mki is a fair bit different from the mkii and mkiii, especially with the rear group and IS unit having decentering shims. Have you worked on latter two models?

@@JehuMcSpooran Yes, we've repaired dozens of the 70-200mm lenses but collimation is well beyond this video and is time consuming or requires expensive test equipment. Canon no longer provides parts for this version lens so the video was done so the average DIYer can revive it.

If you've got room put the screws on your workspace in the location and spacing that you removed them from. At 12 o'clock place the two screws removed from either side of the eyepiece on the back. To the right of them place the right side back cover screws. Below these lay out the bottom cover screws, etc. (be sure not to sneeze). I reinsert the tiny screws that hold flex circuits after the circuit has been lifted. I've seen some people draw an outline of the camera back, sides, top and bottom then punch the screws thru the paper at the proper locations but seems time consuming to me. Nikon is notorious for making a huge variety of screw diameters, lengths, and types. Canon not nearly so bad.

Refer to 2:40 - use a sewing needle held by pliers to wedge behind the cover disk on the AF/Man lever, then unscrew the knob from the body

@@ghccrtube5007 Thank you. I didn't understand what I was trying to remove. Done now! The capacitor is discharged and the camera disassembled up to the desoldering stage. Could you say what voltage you put into the shutter motor prior to reassembly please?

@@electronaut7429 No more than about 3 volts should activate it without wrecking other circuits.

@@ghccrtube5007 Thank you for that and for your video.

Thank you for commenting!

Good to know....thanks for commenting!

Glad to hear the lens is working again. A degreaser/solvent like Blue Shower also works well to remove the tape if you're careful. Thank you for commenting!

Attention to detail gets it done. Thank you for your comments.

Old school talents :P

Give it a try! Takes less than a couple of hours, less than an hour if you've got all the tools and flex. Nikon no longer works on this lens, but got $250 for this repair when they did.

@@ghccrtube5007 good work if you can get it :)

I've found that it's less common that a pcb fails than a flex is not inserted completely, or at a slight angle. Check the flex on the back ( at 13:40 in video ) to be sure it's properly inserted. The shutter magnet solder connections are also a weak point

@@ghccrtube5007 i was check at 16:05 the flex solder join, no voltage appears to magnet.and i guess its faulty board because i change internal battery and still got clock reset

Good to know...enjoy your revived lens! Thanks for commenting

There's a variety of sizes on Amazon - search there for jewelers screwdrivers. I get mine from Micro-Tools.com

@@ghccrtube5007 Thank you!