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Tim's Driveway
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Добавлен 13 сен 2020
Mazda Alternator Replacement 2015 Mazda 6 - How to Remove and Install Alternator (2013-2020 Mazda 6)
2015 Mazda 6 Alternator Replacement. How to remove and replace the alternator in a Mazda 6. DIY! Same procedure for the 2013-2020 Mazda 6. How to replace the alternator in a 2013, 2014, 2015, 2016, 2017, 2018, 2019, or 2020 Mazda 6 with the 2.5 liter Mazda Skyactiv engine.
If this video was helpful, please like and subscribe for more DIY vehicle repairs. Thank you!
This car has the 2.5 liter Mazda Skyactiv engine, so alternator replacement will be similar for the following vehicles:
2013-2020 Mazda CX-5
2014-2020 Mazda 3
2016-2020 Mazda CX-4
2016-2020 Mazda CX-9
2018-2020 Mazda CX-8
2019-2020 Mazda CX-30
If this video was helpful, please like and subscribe for more DIY vehicle repairs. Thank you!
This car has the 2.5 liter Mazda Skyactiv engine, so alternator replacement will be similar for the following vehicles:
2013-2020 Mazda CX-5
2014-2020 Mazda 3
2016-2020 Mazda CX-4
2016-2020 Mazda CX-9
2018-2020 Mazda CX-8
2019-2020 Mazda CX-30
Просмотров: 43 205
Видео
DIY Volkswagen Jetta Oil Change (2006, 2007, 2008, 2009, 2010 VW Jetta 2.5L)
Просмотров 129 тыс.4 года назад
DIY tutorial on how to change the oil in a VW Jetta 2.5L (2006-2010 VW Jetta 2.5L). MK5 Volkswagen Jetta 2006, 2007, 2008, 2009, 2010. If this video was helpful, please give it a like and subscribe for more DIY videos, including more videos with this VW Jetta! 9-Piece Oil Filter Cap Wrench Tool Kit: www.amazon.com/gp/product/B083FZRQJX/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Mann HU 71...
thank Tim <3 no Diddy
Had to replace the belt on a 1991 Chevy Cavilier and had to attach a 2ft long metal pipe to the socket wrench to get the leverage I needed to get the belt on.
2:25 that little thing snapped out of place and doesn't wanna seal back on. Well hopefully it wasn't important lmfao. The cap is the only thing holding oil from pouring down now
Trust the Europeans to over complicate-over engineer something as simple as an oil filter. LOL
Great video, makes it look incredibly easy.
did the oil filter snapped in placed?
I tried doing this on the 2013 Mazda 3 skyactiv. I could not get the plug out the alternator. I spent like an hour squeezing from all sides with my fingers, both hands. I lost all feeling and got blisters 😅 I just resembled everything, but installed a new belt. I own to take it to my mechanic now. I don't want to go through the ordeal again. Reinstalling the belt was a big pain too
Mechanics curse the engineers but the manufacturers make it harder so you have to go to the dealer. That looks like the most expensive alternator swap ever.
Im now about to go through this hell. Why are mazda engine bays so tight and compacted? Smh and i have big hands.... 😪
> Thank you for your information, I found a 06 2.5, and paid $143:00 last time, but Not today. $47 oil 🛢/ $12 around, filter Less than $143:00+ FJB>Taxes 😡 Thanks Bro your Channel helped me some CASH $$$$😊 I found this Jetta last year with 62,000 miles on it. For, ?🥁🥁 $2900😁
Most places either flat out refuse to work on a Volkswagen, and those that will rarely have the filter in stock. I'm a master machinist/ME with 25 years of experience. Unbelievably, it's less of a hassle doing it myself than calling every oil change place in the city and still not finding one for literally weeks at a time. Thank you for skipping the chit chat and getting right to the point in a concise and straightforward approach. Very well done. Wanna make another video doing the freeze plugs next ?
Great tips and ideas... thanks you guys this helped me today with my wife's horrible 2012 Mazda6 (GH) with MZR-DC 2.2lt Diesel. It destroyed its clutch pulley (OAP) on the weekend :-\
Great. I think the car is supposed to be flat and not inclined on a ramp to change oil.
Do the same tensioner use on a diesel engine
I did it wow! Thank you so much for this video🎉❤
I know this vid is 3 years old but you guys are quality humans for this. Especially the part about getting it physically out and back in.
Glad I don't have to take the motor mounts off...
First off fantastic video because while not professional it was so helpful for me. The first thing I want to say is when using the 17mm (not 18mm) wrench to release the belt tension slowly move the wrench towards the front of the car from underneath. Count to 30 while doing this and ai can not express or say this enough GO SLOW. I had no idea what the tensioner is hydraulic and moved it to fast when putting the new belt on. The plastic parts around the bolts on the hydraulic part broke. Now they did look bad when I took the old belt off and removed the tensioner but I forced it to fast putting the new belt back on. I paid 161.00 at Autozone about for a new tensioner plus the 286.00 after discounts for the new Alternator and new belt. If you use just a 17mm wrench you can put the belt on very easy as you apply slow force the hydraulic tensioner easily releases and you slide the belt on. I barely used any force. Getting the old alternator out and the new one in is a bear but unhook all the things mentioned here and straddle the AC hose and it can be done. All n all I lost one push grommet in the process of putting it all back together. Thanks again for the video the car runs so much better now
Do you know the torque spec for the alternator?
17mm on the tension arm not 18 just saying. This video is fantastic. I am half way through the job. Sadly I found the source of oil loss I discovered three weeks ago
Great video. I need to do this on my kids 2016 and was hoping it was much easier oh well. I might bite the bullet and have a shop do it
Extremely well done and extremely helpful video. Thanks Tim! 👍
Best to MUTE this while viewing how to.
For anyone that sees this, there is a way to do this without jacking up the car. If you own a set of closed end wrenches that are angled at the end, you are able to get enough grip on the lower bolt through the hood. Top bolt is not problem to get to. Bottom one took some strength for sure but I’m no strong man by any means and I got it off. It only needs to be loose to remove. The tensioner isn’t really in the way. Hope someone sees this before they do all this extra work. (Maybe I got lucky on mine but figured I’d let you all know there’s possibly an easier way. Best of luck everyone.
I just ordered some cause I got to change mine again last time I took off the tire too much work. Just need the proper tools now 😂
@@reydls4314any specific ones you recommend? I’m seeing too many options in different angles
@@BIGH3AD777 damn I ain’t home and can’t remember what brand I got, I know for sure they’re ratcheting and flex head wrenches. Just need some patience to get the wrench in there.
Very helpful
Actually the easiest way to do this is to take out the 4 bolts holding the AC compressor on. Leave the hoses attached.
Thanks, I never changed oil on a VW with this type of filter housing. I just wanted to know what to expect. Straight to the point no BS video. Good job.
I have changed alternators on a lot of cars and trucks, this one was one of the worst to remove the alternator once the bolts were out. Very little clearance. I loosened the ABS unit bracket on the fender , that helped.
Great video that made this easy for my first time touching a Jetta. Probably helpful to open the oil cap on the engine before draining to provide some ventilation but all in all perfectly executed. Thanks!
Perfect example of over engineering
Would i be able to remove the alternator wothout removing the tensioner ?
Yes you can pivot it on the top stud after loosening the bottom bolt. But its simple to remove it altogether.
Oil drain plug is actually not malleable or torque to yield. Also that is a solid hard steel washer and not a hollow crush washer. Perfectly fine to reuse multiple times. Don't know how the myth of needing a new plug got started but if it makes you feel better by all means, it's a couple of bucks to replace so go right ahead. Carry on.
Lmao I was thinking the same thing 😂
Very helpful thank you 👍🏻
Thanks! But would it be ok to put in 5W-30 fully synthetic. If the back says it’s fine for VWs
Thanks man! Saved hour lol trying to find the winning rotation to get that thing out lol
Is it normal for there to be a second seal at top? Not the one inside the oil filter housing but where the housing screws on to. I noticed my car had a second red seal at the top. Was wondering it should be there or if previous person didn't remove it.
The post with the Greyish plastic cover...is that the positive that goes to the battery? I am getting conflicting answers. Doing big 3 upgrade
Yes. B terminal
Amazing video. I understood everything clearly. Thank you!
Do you know what volatge range is on a good working alternator for 2014 Mazda 6? I've had two bad batteries within a year and I think it's my alternator but I can't find what the operating voltage is for the alternator. Mine is currently reading 13.6V when the car is on.
That's a decent voltage. Have you had the charging system load tested?
@@runningmole I took it to autozone to test my alternator and they told me the charging was weak. Currently, the battery is reading 14V a minute after the car has started. Can the alternator's charging still be considered "weak" while providing 14V at the battery terminals? I would think if the charging was weak then the readings at the battery terminals would be closer to the battery voltage when the car is off, which is around 12.2V. This is simple Ohm's law, V = IR, where more current equates to a higher voltage (assuming resistance is constant).
@@frankn9725 you are correct you probably have paracetic draw .. have made any mods that require messing with your wiring?
@@frankn9725also what type of batteries have you used?
@@frankn9725I’m told those test won’t work with our car (@ autozone) due to way it works as the voltage is controlled through the pcm and increases voltage on demand/ when needed there’s a special way to test according to shop Manual what that way is idk lol same issue going through
careful when messing with connectors on that fuel rail...these cars have a major issue with fuel rail sensors and mazda forces you to buy the entire rail if it gets damaged...200$ part + labor. Also use dielectric grease on EVERYTHING you put back.
This is video I originally followed but now I extract my oil. I love how you show what tools you are using so people can get the right tool.
I found this difficult to masturbate to. However I was able to finish at the end 👍
A vacuum wasn't required?
Thorough and helpful, thanks. I've always eyeballed how much I pour from the second jug of oil. Never thought about pouring the needed amount into the first jug. Never too old to learn!
Yes, this was helpful and explanatory. "That thing on the side" of the oil container is called a gauge!
Solid car ?
Do I only use 5w-40 or can I use 5w-30 ?
Check your manual, mine says 5w-40 but 5w-30 if that's not available. I've used both.
Local Mechanic will charge me $150 for the labor I’m think I can take that $150 buy the tools for the job and try not to break anything. Wish me luck
I got a quote for 250 Aud for alternator change and door latch
"Customer States" ....lol We will see you at the Shop.😅
Great video, thank you sir!!!
Great video! Thanks
putting the belt back was my downfall, thanks for the vid!