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You can watch the videos by Pierre Meunier about throwing a DLG. His gliders are "proper" DLGs, so they have throwing pegs, which makes it easier to grip -- but still the technique is basically the same. Also, you should use a preset on your radio. The preset works like this: There is some switch on your radio, call it switch A. When you flip switch A, the rudder moves slightly to the right. When you flip back switch A, the rudder moves back to center position. So, just before the throw, you flip switch A -- the right-rudder keeps the glider straight. Then when the glider is done climbing, you flip back switch A. Most computer radios have the capability to apply a preset to a certain switch. Cheers!

Thank you! This is me playing on F tuba. Here is my Bach album: soundcloud.com/elihu-333413621/sets/selections-of-js-bach-solo-bass-tuba Cheers!

Thanks for your compliments. Cheers! :)

Fuselage is 48 cm nose to tail. Nose distance I do not remember. (I cannot find this plan in my records...) Sorry about that. Hope your build goes smoothly. :)

@@AeroCraftAviation Thanks for the reply. First one is now being assembled and the second one has begun. I can't get my head round the 1 cm for the fuselage sides. Seems extremely narrow considering it is shaped as well. I went for 1.7 cm. Can't see it making a lot of difference once it is shaped.

Wingspan: 36" Wing chord: 5.75" Airfoil: Clark Y Horizontal stabilizer span: 11" Horizontal stabilizer chord: 3.25" Horizontal Stabilizer airfoil: symmetric Vertical stabilizer height: 7" Vertical stabilizer surface area: 14 sq. in. Motor www.ebay.com/itm/285819336048?itmmeta=01J08X62S65T0645PKANF4AH3Q&hash=item428c28f570:g:DhsAAOSwuadmINFc&itmprp=enc%3AAQAJAAAA4AjzPd6uyPW3t%2FyQ03sxcWK0z9xXqUOl%2FweNCZQpjWPkBzlJDeAbUGDYqZ9tpwLH0gRCvGifauXJfuKL2JYcVMO3PSxLofKmqpTpVkkXOJTbxUHxFENBH1E%2FdHoBJJo9KQgzzK0jZOPGgFwBCbRhN60Nn8wCWHwU2sdlBaLIjINRHkTcr27y5XFspLBbvmHM8xPrsmuete7Vs5sV5Vd47X2okn0HyAgUGM5VEfs4EcbuKfieY4QrlgkfRQ5mS6InaQaXoI3%2BFx7Cu405Tf3EvNsuk7x%2FHKK%2F0ecYlyhemxz1%7Ctkp%3ABFBM3qyYnYJk ESC: www.ebay.com/itm/184777259129?itmmeta=01J08XCTVNT49HA01CYFAB2CBQ&hash=item2b05953879:g:10QAAOSw1XdUWJFX&itmprp=enc%3AAQAJAAAAwK26Q8R8mWgbhiRTk2NcA%2BwPckyZBO9%2FFlc5Y4gf4JIb5bcLeT8j%2FLWDCdIZ8fODbP35gI3OMvi49YkdEjXMvK3bm4jSO44OzpTqoPS85rOZ3z1J842tDfZ7tal9z6om5v5hh8xePgTR13MXHOBNdFKTbED4BA6s09Pyl%2BBzX7EgcR%2BGtl4gsooLEC55VusHr1yoSpnwZDkgC9ouVKCBGqbrYBeoIlW4oUSpgGjtXVfcaXeYtAu3FbJZ9SC2AoBCPQ%3D%3D%7Ctkp%3ABk9SR_Sts52CZA Battery: 2S 180mAh Li-Po Receiver: LemonRX DSM2 Thanks for your comment, hope this info helps.

@@AeroCraftAviation Thanks , what is the fuselage length bro ?

@@654comet Not recorded... about 30" probably.

@@AeroCraftAviation thanks

For that hangar rat I used a 35mAh 1s Li-Po battery, the old E-Flite one made for their Mini Vapor model. I don't think they produce those anymore. The smallest one currently is this 70mAh : www.horizonhobby.com/product/70mah-1s-3.7v-14c-lipo-battery-ph-1.25-ultra-micro/EFLB0701S.html?gad_source=4&gclid=Cj0KCQjwpZWzBhC0ARIsACvjWRO4AwGHa_yEa_YsbCSkKYGjx8LRxG_P6AtS2AM8e-vlcsRl94euoWUaAqzYEALw_wcB If you want non-RC though, you should do a capacitor powered one. You can check out this old channel for info on those. I remember these guys used to have a lot of fun with all sorts of capacitor powered airplanes: www.youtube.com/@sonex413/videos

@@AeroCraftAviation thanks for the info. I enjoy your videos.

In fact, one of the islanders had a few beautiful slope gliders! However, he said he's lost several aircraft to the skuas (like a cross between an eagle and a seagull) that come out to hunt in the springtime, so he avoids flying around late spring.

@@AeroCraftAviation Ouch! Over more than five decades, I've lost countless planes for countless reasons, but I've never had one eaten by a bird!

@@ricomon64 Same! But the skuas on the island are no joke. I was dive-bombed by them several times while trying to walk out to the cliffs to see puffins

@@AeroCraftAviation Well, skuas are known to steal from or eat birds much larger than themselves. If they perceive you to be a threat or a source of food, they'll attack.

Yeah I did some builds recently. I'll make videos on them soon

Good to hear from you. Very glad to return to this channel. More to come

An X-acto knife works for most balsa (thinner than 1/4"). A small handheld razor saw is good for balsa that's dense/heavy, or thicker than 1/4". For complex geometry, use a coping saw. Also, I have a little tabletop bandsaw, but actually almost never need it for cutting balsa. Handtools usually work best.

@@AeroCraftAviation great thank you I really appreciate it and love your work, are you studying to be a aerospace engineer?

@@ModelAviationStation I am. I'm at RPI studying aeronautical engineering. After, I will continue into graduate work. Thanks for your kind words. I'm sorry I don't post videos anymore. My studies take up so much of my time. When I have free time it is mostly spent playing music and spending time with friends. If you want to listen to some of my music you can here: soundcloud.com/elihu-333413621

@@AeroCraftAviation I understand thank you for the advice about balsa cutting techniques and the link to the music best of luck with school and your future plans.

Bob Lippman @altbob gave me a paper copy. If you can get in touch with him perhaps he can provide you the digital version.

Yep (with little riser mount in between so the elevator can move down without hitting the carbon rod)

Thanks 😄

You would have to add ballast weight. Maybe 75 grams of ballast for medium winds.

Parklite (lightweight version of Ultracote) plastic shrink film

All I could find was Hangar 9 UltraCote Lite Airplane Covering

Is it the right one?

@@axelsmith209 It will not work -- too heavy. And shrinks too tight. The frame will bend. You will need to search many sites to find Parklite. Most sellers do not have it any more. Hard to find.

Ok thanks

Right that's what i think, too. Essentially they flatten the curvature so that the oncoming air doesn't have to angularly accelerate as much. Thanks for your comment.

Sand or carve them yourself by hand, using some techniques from my other videos. Cheers. :)

Would it be the same exact airfoils detail but just half the trailing edge?

@@axelsmith209 Right. Keep only as much of the airfoil as you need

Thanks for your comment. Span is 1 meter. Root chord is 175 mm. Planform is approx. an ellipse. Tapered airfoil cutouts are cut by hand. Cutting guides can be printed from airfoiltools.com . Navigate to Airfoil Search.

What would be the maximum and minimum thickness of the airfoil and the maximum and minimum camber?

@@axelsmith209 Look for the Mark Drela Bubble Dancer airfoils on airfoiltools . Frankly any of them will work but the thicker ones like AG16 are better for a little floater like this

To university... life is busy.

@@AeroCraftAviation Well good for you! I hope in the future you get time to do more videos if not happy studies.

Shaping soft balsa is actually very difficult to do by CNC milling. I have had only marginal success with it. And 3D printing is far outside the weight margin for sucb a wing (there are some internal lattice designs that come close, but are still at least 30% heavier than a balsa wing of equivalent strength). To get a more accurate wing shape, the best approach is to go foam-core carbon fiber, using CNC-milled aluminum wing molds -- which ARE quite straightforward to make.

Thank you for your kind words!

Yeah that's usually how you know you're near a thermal if you're flying an RC glider for example, if one wing lifts up you just turn that direction and you'll find the thermal. With free flight airplanes they'll often run into little pockets of sink or lift that cause them to bob side-to-side.