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I dont think you understand the difference between modification and restoration lol

Anchor your elbow to make yourself more stable and slow down, you don't need multiple passes you just need slower movements. Also if you aren't using the stand-off attachment to drag then take it off and hold your torch height by hand. Having it on but not touching the material means your arc length is too far. Also grind the material clean where you put your ground and you won't have as much of an issue with that rust. The main thing is to anchor yourself, be steady and slow down. Hope that helps 🤘🧑‍🏭

How can you frig about like that with the hand drill literally inches from the drill press. Now ive watched more and you just proved youre a complete moron by explaining why you got the drillnpress that you didn't use.

Great video, and project overall! I've never done anything like this but I was curious. When you were grinding the old bumper off there were sparks hitting the body. Is this not a bad thing for the paint?

Could watch this all day.

1hd-ft bottom end has a 1 piece ' girdle " style big end bearing cap making it extremely strong. Higher flow oil return etc capable of up to 400 ish hp reasonably safely. Put " free wheeling hubs ", part time 4wd kit on to reduce fuel consumption for general driving. Front lower control arm flips are popular for clearance and comfort. 1hz are very common in Australia regularly reaching 800,000km , some have hit the million k mark.

Light bulbs are for the light of the Mog itself

More 80 series videos!

Nice one bro! I inherited my parent’s 1997 LC80 40th Anniversary. She’s old, paint needs work but the engine is immaculate. Definitely a head turner on the road and have lots of motorist tailgating me on the road. Love this vehicle!

One thing at a time, crack on with the LC80 first, just my 2cents

A sponge to wash the car 😳….you heathen. Treat yourself to a wash mitt 👍

1HDTF 24multivale im also in manual gear..in Pakistan still using

Bro u force me to watch your all videos lc 80

If u need full suspension deferential i can send it to you from Pakistan.. u csn easy buy ftom Dubai..& Japan

I cant understand..why u buy a full suspension lc 80.. why i ate dpend too much time on rusty differential

I very shocking when i watch your very very rusty lc 80..big project 😮😮😮😮😮😮😮😮😮

I was searching video for my lc 80 96 ..i have Rusty footboard near back tyres under the door..inside the footrests

Look forward to watching you build this one up. There's one not too far from me that's been sitting for sale for several years now... tempting me. (Also a radio body) It'll be great if you're able to keep the original box body, but if not, there's certainly a million ways to do a new cool camper body. Not to mention some weight saving

I am looking forward to watching your progress in making this vehicle "great again". Mine is a 404.111 from 1955.

Thank you very much for walking through Uni's history and treasures of the box. OM606 is like bacon for my ears, great choice. I like idea of keeping original box. It should be very easy to modify, light enough and cool original look. Very cool ideas and best of luck with conversion! Looking forward to new episodes.

Few comments: The rifle holder is a rifle holder, the yellowisch sign in front is the weight indication, normally yellow number plates could be attached there showing the actual weight of the vehicle. The electronic box (probably, I do not know this specific box but from what you showed) was an interface between the handset you have and a military phone line and also allow modem use. The RC4 is most likely not a military designation, normally tactical signs are used which consist of a rectangular white frame with signs inside and numbers. You can search for: Taktische Zeichen Bundeswehr. You never make a mistake with an OM606, if you can reasonable fit it. And the gearbox may be a little weak. Oilcooler needed for continuous higher speed driving. Keep us posted.

Also these guys for military history. youtube.com/@ausarmour?si=sHw1uAnCL9Iu_o1S

Don’t forget the 1fz-f carb gcc spec from Dubai

The most important thing to know about any unimogs before the mdoels from the 70's, like the 1300l: They did no rollover tests. And the cabs are weak. They have no roll over protection. If your tyre blows out and you flip at highway speeds, you likely die. If you fall down a slope sideways, i you most likely die. If you flip over on you side, just standing still: at least your cab is trash. Build a good rollover protection bar. It's a important live insurance when really planning to roadtrip this thing.

If you can get a good engine swap and some noise dampening with AC, you can then go anywhere you like period. As long as you don't pack the box too heavy, as it's already heavy you should have no issues.

Few things about this model of unimog. First The gear box, you have to go in numerical order, from 1->2 before you can shift to 3&4(1&2 road gears) same with 5th and 6th. Shifting like so will open the gates in the gearbox allowing the horizontal movement of the gear lever. Also in between is the PTO position which often kind of locks the horizontal movement between the 1-2 and 3-4 gears, hence why you struggled to go between the two. Also if you want to lock the diff's you'll have to hold the lever up, otherwise it'll jsut bounce back to regular 4wd. These model of unimog did not come with seatbelts as it was built beofre the law required them. The lever you tought was the PTO is actually a hand throttle. The PTO lever is the lever WOULD, be between your main gear shifter, and the handbrake, but seems like you dont have that at all. But your gearbox probably still has the same pattern, just not the lever to actuate the PTO.

Hell yes!

I have been along the same lines of thinking in going for a very capable amd light weight/reasonably small unimog. I do own a 435, and its heavy and big and useable for areas where there is a lot of space only, so not useable for some of the tracks I want to drive. Unimog 404 parts are cheap here in Germany, with certain exceptions. Mostly old stocks though. Ebay and Kleinanzeigen offers tons of parts. NOS axels below 1k e.g.. So in principle a cost effective decision, and great you bought one! There also are the 404s that have the big driver cab from the 406/416, and these use the bigger engine with 2.8l M130 and about 110 HP and come with power steering. Mileage still bad. But was standard. Flywheel needs some changes. Option of diesel conversion would call for a 617A. The 617 is a mess, had that in a Mercedes G, underpowered, not worth the effort. You can probably only fit a 5 cylinder diesel engine. When you do that, since the injection pump sits on the wrong side, there need to be changes to the engine cover. You may have to move the pedals to the left. Or you find a so called Hass-Glocke (bell case) that tilts the engine a bit for that reason. No longer in production, will be a stretch to find one. Changing the complete setup with a non-Mercedes engine is a mess. Since the gearbox is also used to transfer the rear axle forces to the frame switching the gearbox is not really an option (total supspension design and replacement). No longer an Unimog. Dont do it. So if you opt for the 120HP gas engine, make sure you use the offroad carburators. You may be able to fit a newer gearbox UG 2/27 or 2/30, but not sure about that. If you want to keep the original gearbox, you should add an oli cooler. I btw will probably rather end up with a 416 with fast axles and 120 series HP, can be around 3 tons empty / no bed and has a powerfull 6 cylinder diesel engine with about 6l that could also be equipped with a turbocharger.

Change/Upgrade the engine, but keep a petrol engine. Seen my post in your video about the 404.

Good base, the rust in the important places is marginal, the small damage to the driver's cab is relatively easy to repair. As far as changing the engine is concerned, you can of course use a diesel, but you should think twice about it because the conversion is much more difficult than you think and very, very expensive. Now there is an M180 petrol engine with 80-82 hp, which has a torque of 14.6 kp·m (143 N·m) at 3200 rpm. Maximum speed with the engine is around 95 km/h or about 59 mph. In Africa they use kilometers per hour, so you should keep the speedometer if you want to go there and only put MPH markings so that you know how fast you are going in the USA. Instead of converting to diesel, there are several ways to either upgrade this engine or use a different petrol engine. THAT saves a lot of money and work depending on the variant. M180 is the 2.2 / 2.3 liter engine that is installed in your 404. Probably one of the models M180.926 to ...928 or 942/943 or 952/953. All of these engines have 80 - 82 hp due to the low compression cylinder head. If you now find an M180.954 engine - it was available in cars with the small tail fin (models 110.010 and 110.011) and later in the so-called /8 (Model numbers 114.015, 114.017, 114.615 and 114.617, also called W114) - then you have an engine that produces 120 hp with the car carburetor system (2 x Type Zenith 35/40 INAT). The cylinder head attached to your existing engine provides around 10 - 15 hp extra, if you continue to use the existing military carburetor. The M130 is basically the same engine block as the M180, just with larger cylinder bores, resulting in a displacement of 2.8 l. The M130 (as M130.925 V) was also installed in the Unimog between 1971 and 1980 and had 110 hp (81 kW) at 4800 rpm and a torque of 19 kp·m (186 N·m) at 3200 rpm. The top speed was hardly higher, it was 100 km/h or 62 mph. The car version (M130.923 V) thow is different and has more Power (96 kW (130HP at 5000 rpm - 216 Nm (22 kp-m) at 3200 rpm) and is called M 130.923. More speed is also possible, it just depends on the engine power. But now to the possible modifications to your engine/engine replacement if it remains a petrol engine. 1st option: Put the cylinder head from the M180.954 engine on, the intake and exhaust tract remain unchanged. Effort: Get the cylinder head and have it overhauled. New cylinder head gasket set. One day's work, if necessary make an adapter for the cooling water connection. Result: 90 - 95 HP 2nd variant: Like 1, but also install the car's 2-carburettor system. The car's intake and exhaust tract are required for this, the Y-pipe must be changed. Some sheet metal work on the right inner hood is necessary and you have to build the air collector yourself. Result: 120 HP 3rd variant Find M130.920 (was installed in the S-Class W108 built in 1968 - 72 and in the first /8 W114). Change the oil pan of the 404, change the engine's oil pump and the flywheel of the 404. Result: approx. 120hp and 50nm more torque 4th variant As before, but with the car carburettor as in variant 2 Result: 140hp 5th variant Install M110 engine (the block is identical to M180/M130, but with double cam cylinder head). All work as before, plus completely rebuild the intake tract yourself, some sheet metal work on the driver's cab. Result: depending on the variant (carburettor/injector) 140 - 185hp But this variant is also the most expensive and the most work. And with a maximum of 140hp, it should also be the limit. Big advantage of the injection version, consumption drops by a little more than a gallon/100 km. Converted to 100 miles, you save about 1.6 gallons, if I've calculated correctly. In the end, it's not worth it with the M110 engine because the transmission and drive train are then overwhelmed, even if you limit it to 140 hp. Basically, problems with the drive train start at around 125 hp, and it then has to be reinforced. For longer journeys, a transmission oil cooler should be installed in the basic version. Speaking of transmissions, it's worth equipping the transmission with a different clutch. There's a company in California that offers a conversion kit that is better suited to the respective additional power (I have nothing to do with the company, it's just a tip): expedition-imports.com/unimog-404-clutch-conversion-kit-404clconv/ They have lots of other stuff and spare parts for the 404. Certainly an address that might be able to help with one thing or another. As for the case. My opinion? Get rid of it. Better to get a new case made of sandwich panels. Much lighter, better insulated and you can determine the dimensions. It is also possible to build an alcove above the driver's cab. More modern windows, easier installation of everything you want. AND you don't need to convert anything to have a reasonable interior height. The bottom line is that a new box body will actually be cheaper than converting the old one. You can even make a box body with a rocker frame or spring suspension, which would be much better (but costs money). Greetz Dan

I never understood the Defender hype. Make a video about simple building quality.

So dump that defender you will not miss it. No match for that LC

Double triangulated 4-link please. Purely selfish reasons - I want to know if it's viable for a dream build I would like to do on an 80 one day 😁 you do you though 👍

hummer in the unimog

it could have the earlier diesel with 32-38 hp ;))

Om606 swap it.

Love it, I also became obsessed with Sooty! I’m in the UK with a 1991 triple locked, 5 speed manual 1HDT. Think there’s a misconception when it comes to the US market assuming everything before the later models were duds but here in the UK we got everything you could want right from the get go. Enjoy your travels Sir, look forward to watching. Good bless.

I have a 6x6 Pinzgauer ambulance I turned into a camper. My problem with the Unimog was my leg doesn't fir between the steering wheel and the peddle. Im a bit taller than you. It is a great truck. I still may get one one day, just need to modify the steering wheel a bit.

Two things, Honda would’ve probably made something similar to the trooper and the 4Runner as they were made to be more comfortable daily drivers that could off-road. 2. American companies invested in and allowed the smaller 4,5, and 6 cylinder diesels to exist from the start.

Keep it Benz powered. OM606 is widely available and can reliably make 300hp with a mechanical fuel pump and a bigger turbo...

Totally agree with you about Nate and absolutely love his channel. Are you familiar with the ( Victor Bart - Unimog 404 ) channel ? He did an OM617 swap in case you are interested in checking it out...search for title ( UNIMOG 404 Diesel Conversion and Power Steering - All The Info You Need To Know )

I love it Tom and Isaac working together again! You need to show the videos you filmed in England changing oil and brakes! I love this kind of content!

OM606

I owned a non turbo land cruiser and drove it over 600k miles. It only needed regular oil & filters and brakes. The only reason I sold it parts was because of rust. The back hatch actually fell off on the highway. Sadly, it was condemned. I wish I had rebuilt it.

Also definitely watch the following two episodes on 404 axles in case you haven't already...both are Y.T, Channels ...Ghoulie Garage & Dirt Lifestyle Ghoulie Garage...Machining DirtLifestyles unimog 404 pinions and hub conversions! Dirt Lifestyle....Ultimate Suzuki Samurai Buggy Build! Episode 1 Unimog Axles, Wheels And Tires.

Swings and roundabouts when it comes to an engine swap. If you can find a straight fit diesel alternative, such as the Mercedes option you're thinking about not only will you save yourself a whole load of pain in terms of getting it to fit, you'll also have the advantage of probably being able source spares more easily in the more obscure parts of the world as old Mercedes are common over most of the globe. Would a more modern Cummins engine offer a similar utility? The main issue it that of a higher cruising speed, so maybe finding out what others have done to solve this problem with their Unimog 404 conversions. Weight would also be a bit of a concern, as Africa has many roads where anything heavy is going to be far more difficult to pull out of muddy conditions etc.

You are literally building what I've been researching and dreaming about building. I totally agree with you about the 404 being a perfectly sized trail rig camper. Don't get too hung up on gutting the shelter. There are still plenty of these radio trucks with all the original interior bits including radios and electronics for sale in Germany for anyone looking to purchase a piece of history. I've looked into every possible engine swap and they all have their pros and cons...Pirate 4x4 has a great small block ford V8 swap / build that you should definitely check out...great for the US but not so much if you really plan on heading to Africa. There's also an interesting 1.9 ALH VWTDI on the U.S. Mercedes Benz Forum. Most of the engine swaps I've read about on the German 404 forums all swear by the OM617 swap. There is also a really impressive OM606 swapped 404 built in Poland you can check it out on Y.T. ( Unimog 404 om606 Off Road Truck Historia jednego auta #4 ) it's by far my favorite swap because the engine is a bit more modern; the OM606 is considered to be super reliable & parts are pretty much available globally even if they aren't cheap...The main problem / limitation regarding attaining highway speed / drivability with with the 404 regardless of which engine and transmission you choose will apparently be the portal axels. The gearing on the portals apparently don't do well with constant highway speeds and are the main limiting factor according to every German forum that I've read through so far. There is a German off road buggy builder ( Matbad 4x4) that rebuilds 404 axels for off road buggy racing and even converts them to disc brakes, but I've not been able to find any info. on reliability, drivability or anyone using them on a project like yours...In general the consensus on all the German forums is that the entire drivetrain including the transmission are not able to deal with the increased torque of most every engine swap and are therefore prone to breaking every part imaginable also due to the age of all the drivetrain components...In addition most solutions for fitting larger engines and transmissions either don't take into account or aren't able to capitalized on the original flex concept of the 404. That being said; I still believe it must be possible to swap in a strong reliable engine and transmission combo that suits the 404 concept and build axels and portals to handle the additional loads and speed...definitley check out the Polish build here on Y.T. it comes closest from what I've been able to find anywhere so far ...Extreme Media...4x4Unimog 404 om606 Off Road Truck Historia jednego auta #4 I'll definitely be flowing your build and am stoked to see what you come up with!

Hell ya dude lets get it. I love to see more 80 series content. Lets save em all!

As an owner of "soviet Unimog" (gaz-66) I would vote for Cummins 5.9, but as an Unimog lover I would consider it from different perspective. By heavy Cummins you will kill off-road capabilities of this beauty simply because engine will be sooo much heavier. It'll become unbalanced and useless in mud and sand. So this surely will trigger suspension change, bigger and wider wheels, etc. Heavier and bigger might compromise durability of chassis. I would consider MB diesel in-line 6 (maybe on turbo) and gearbox/transmission rebuild with updated ratios. Do not know if its even possible, but assume such kits do exist, they must to... I joined this channel because of Mog, so I would love to see it as a main vehicle ;)

Four link sound awesome!