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done w/ this guy when he chose a curved scraper to scrape a straight plank. Yeah, he changed it out, but really?

This is absolutely wrong on how to place the keep-I bought this exact set of sash locks, and installed them just how you said here, despite thinking, “that doesn’t seem right.” and of course the keep catches the bottom sash as I lift it, and now I have four incorrect holes to dowel and repaint, and incorrect hardware impressions in the new paint, and will have to put the locks off center on the sashes to get this fixed. I’ve been messing with these windows for months, and this last step…should have trusted my instincts, but forgot to check that the sash would clear the keep. Please fix that in the video to spare someone else this misery.

what does the top "pull" look like for the upper sash?

This guy talks in all caps

Here you are critiquing the redo sitting in front of a white painted brick fireplace. Way to bland the room out.

Painting brick looks terrible and is bad for the brick. There's brick stains if you hate the color.

The first glaze!? Do I have to come back and sand it down? I used a little bit this morning thinking it's just like spackling. Some parts of the window are kinda beat up. They mainly just want me to make it look a little better. Without tearing everything apart

why is he yelling at me?

Your burning technique is all wrong Scrape and burn at the same time

sarco oil based is excellent stuff the bucket I ordered arrived ok I did a couple windows with it,it then sat unused for a year,a hard crust formed abt a half inch when opened again for use,this I removed,the remainder ,80 percent of it was still uneven and a but dried out,I added some furniture lemon oil mixing the bucket with a qtr in beater with the drill until it got restored to the right consistency

I grew up here and have seen so many beautiful homes in Redlands being brought back to life. Love Brett Waterman. Beautiful home.

Great info, thanks for doing this. I'm aspiring to switch careers to window restoration and some of this is gold... Specifically the idea of using storm windows/rot repair/exterior painting vs full on restoration. I live in Jacksonville, FL, would the idea of storm windows still apply to this area vs something like screens? Our weather is slightly more hot and humid vs OKC. We may get 3 "cold" months out of the year.

I agree 100% about natural wood finishes, AND never painting brick. You've ruined the brick, as far as I'm concerned, once it's painted.

Why yes you should - and we should provide them for you!

Very informative. But the millions and millions of video edits just for simple sentences is quite distracting. Sorry, I know you mean well.

Why are you shouting? ;)

A major shortcoming here is the failure to strip the board and batten wainscot and plate rail in the dining room. This is a glaring omission. What beautiful wood must be imprisoned in paint here ! It's a shame to go so far, then stumble on the goal line.

What this video needs is more guitar music.🙄🙄🙄

I had the same thought regarding dust containment and PPE watching the old house videos. I'm curious - why don't you like chemical strippers for removing paint? I tested eco strip on an old door and I found it to be a lot easier than the cobra infrared gun. Do you not recommend that for windows?

Yet, people continue to do it. Know of three examples where next owners had to have the homes gently "sand blasted" to remove the paint. I see others that were cleaned but can still tell that they had painted brick.

I use only Sarco Dual Glaze putty because the extra-long time that it takes to skin over prior to painting means that it is VERY slow to dry out when exposed to the weather. The old timers use it because it can give more than a decade of additional service life beyond what Type M can. The window restoration businesses tend to use Type M so they can turn over their jobs faster. My house’s windows may get re-puttied only every 50-90 years so I want the putty to LAST. Waiting a couple extra weeks while the Dual Glaze skins over is well worth it.

Cobra speedheater was junk, the heat kept cracking the glass so be warned.. That shouldn't happen with the metabo tool.

This video was very helpful. It would be even better if focus could be locked on the subjects and shots were framed to show the hardware rather than the backs of hands. Cheers!

I have broken many windows trying to reclaim wavy panes. I've tried everything including heat, steam, knife, chisel, and oscillating tool. The only thing that is useful for removing strong and well set glazing (which is not just falling out on its own anyway) is the oscillating tool. Stay in the wood and yes, it's a painfully tedious process, but it's the only way you can have any assurance that you can release the window without breaking it.

$500 bucks?? You've got to be kidding!! That's absolutely ridiculous. Forget that!!

Great tips! I'm looking for those shims/spacers, but I can't find them anywhere. Any tips?

Thank you for creating this great informative video. I use the Cobra speed heater for about a year by now.Dealing with 80 years paints, several layers of it. This system not cheap, but you get the best of it as far as I can tell. It work like charm. Able to remove all the paint to the original wood.

Omg your hand is in the way or it’s blurry 🧐😭

Metabo Paint Shaver: Is SUPPOSED to be hooked up to a HEPA-filtered vacuum cleaner, and should still wear a respirator ESPECIALLY if there's lead paint. So much fun having a sweaty mask on your face, especially in the summer. It's noisy. And as was said at the beginning, you can do some serious damage to the wood if you don't get some practice in. You need extra tools to remove glazing. Costs less than the Cobra Speedheater. Sounds like nothing but cons to me, because the extra dollars for the Cobra is worth it. Cobra Speedheater: Uses InfraRed and doesn't heat the paint to where it combusts, so no breathing apparatus is even necessary. Ahh, to breathe without a sweaty respirator on my face. It's basically silent. You aren't encumbered by a vacuum hose. You use the same tools to remove the glazing. Costs more than the Metabo but with all of the downsides, it's way worth it. Sounds like nothing but pros to me, because the extra dollars for the Cobra is worth it.

ThI’m s is cool, being able to work in masonry into the cold Autumn/early winter months. Admiring your work.

I would like to see a sill replacement.

Great video. Wish the camera angle could have shown hangers straight on, not from an angle and below. Otherwise, excellent!

My impression of the Metabo is that... .....sorry, the music was so annoying that I forgot my point.

What elements are original to a 1979 ranch? Nothing. Now a craftsman bungalow or Victorian I understand.

Red devil was the worst I've ever is. I was in a pinch and that's all I could get

I've never seen anyone on TV do what he does with regard to keeping it to the original architecture. His crew are absolute craftsmen.

i would advise using dust collection with that metabo paint stripper

Need to pretreat bare wood with linseed oil first?

It looks similar to those ceramic infrared reptile lamps, and for less than $20 for a bulb it might be worth giving it a shot!

Can it work on concrete

Great idea on the shims. Have you thought about making the shims out of brass? Seems like that would be the best look!

Does the wood frame have to be primed with oil based paint before it’s glazed with all of these? I’m having issue with the dap33 that you require the oil based primer and that would mean you also need oil based paint on top? I feel stuck in my project on this issue ? I was told not to use dap33 and returned it I’m trying to reglaze with windows in place ,please help

So funny that you’re critiquing Brett Waterman 😂

I've never seen such a slower use of the metabo in my life. This has got to be a scam video. Do a quick RUclips search for "sanding a shash window in 15 minutes" amd you'll see. Don't be fooled, folks!

Good stuff. I enjoyed this. I subscribed after looking at other videos you offer.

I grew up in Redlands, CA and have always loved the historical homes there. Unfortunately I have come to know too much about the damage that lead, cadmium, mercury, etc. often found in these homes can cause to young children. Anything brass, the glass, the solder holding the glass patterns together, likely the original finishes on the beautiful wood, the plumbing and therefore the water supply itself… it’s truly unfortunate that people weren’t educated about it at that time.

Not Brain Both Of You, Just Use A Grinder With A 4 inch Paint Strip Disc. Amén.

300.00 my ass. Try 600 for that metabo

I have used the Metabo and various IR tools (speedheater and cobra) extensively - while I like the IR tools for a lot of work - for big surfaces the Metabo wins out every time provided it has a vacuum attached. The Metabo is not the right tool for a window frame (poor test choice) BUT for the side of a house or a boat deck it cannot be beat by the IR tools for speed. If you want to do IR really efficiently you have to apply a thin coat of Linseed Oil about 48 hours before using the IR (extra cost and time). The glass is a none issue because the Metabo is not intended to remove glazing putty. Steam is actually a very very good solution for window frames when you consider labour effort and time.

Harware stores in my area dont even sell glazing anymore. Everone uses those tubes of silocone or polyurethane