Видео

Great video, thanks. One question is how did you removed the thermistor and the temperature sensor? They look like are glued on the socket. Did you used brute force or bought another ones? In the video looks like you replaced them with new one but not clear.

That looks good!

The spring keeps breaking for me, should I use 100% infill?

Hey looking to do this soon, would this work on the anycubic kobra max? Thanks! Great video!

I''ll have to do this upgrade too since the standard extruder is too trivial and then leaves a lot to be desired (the filament doesn''t come out smoothly but in threads and we''re not there). But I was thinking of buying the Kobra2 extruder to mount on my Kobra series one (but I will have to replace the heating capsule and temperature sensor with the ones I have mounted on my printer), because I find it interesting to improve the passage of melted filament with a longer nozzle. Will I solve and get results?

I wonder if this works for Kobra 2 Max. Also, wondering if these issue I keep hearing about on Kobras are only about printing above a certain temp? I'm probably just doing PLA, and my settings have been around 205 on my Ender 3. The my Kobra 2 Max comes in today, and I want to go ahead and do some of the upgrades if they are relevant to PLA only.

You could always lay a piece of parchment paper over the top of the candy. You could cut the jolly ranchers into half or thirds.

what about the fan thats hanging in the video. does that fit in the old position?

I wanted to see how they came out, please

I found a heatbreak exact fit. Changed it, all worked great till I did a bed level. The nozzle got grounded into the bed. Any idea what went wrong? I see the bed leveling light coming on but the nozzle just kept going. Frustrated.

Will it work for the kobra 2 pro?

Can you add the recipe for the Carmel sauce please 🙏🏽

That’s kinda gross

Great video. Can you hold your phone the correct way for your next video please. (the world is mainly horizontal ;-)

You didn't get any caramel on the ends of those on the bottom right of the screen or your top right😮😮😮😢😢😢😢😢😢

Look like yummy Love you Dost mean friend

If you have a kobra 2 you can replace the heatbreak with a bi-metal one from a CR6 and this will allow you to use standard volcano nozzles. You will need to adjust the height of the inductive probe, run a PID autotune and set your z offset but it is a perfect fit.

Be ashamed

Bro traumatized the cat

this is horrendous. i love it.

I love it and hate it 😂

Now that’s what 3D printers were made for

Disgustingly brilliant

For now all I did was swap out factory tubing with the blue stuff. It's printing petg pretty good now.

Hey there, thanks for the video. I also have the sv04, and I have tried almost everything. If you have time, could you please help me with getting mine up to par 🙏 it would be a great help. Please reach out to me Thanks

Good job, I have installed bi-metall on my anycubic i3 and now it is perfect!

Would it make much of a difference if I were to just upgrade to the Capricorn?

I have an Anycubic Kobra Go. It worked well for 9 months and now.. well, it's a hot mess... Quick question.. did you re-use your heat sink and did it work okay or did you upgrade the heat sink as well?

I have a Kobra (base model) 3d printer and am having trouble. My original print head stopped feeding filament after a certain amount of use. I replaced the hot-end and the problem still exists. I have tried different filaments with no difference. Until recently, I was able to make things just fine. This article made me realize that the Kobra (base model) has its filament drive as part of the print head. Where other Kobra models have a separate filament drive. Is there an advantage in later Kobra models?

How would i be able to change firmware and display ui to go over 260 degree though

Can you use a v6 heat block instead of the one you show in the video?

Hello mate, thanks for the guide!! one question I have the Kobra neo, i guess its the same hotend, but i see that you purchase the V5 bimetal heatbreak instead of the v6 why is that?

I"m going to do this to my Kobra. I noticed that the capricorn tubing is fairly loose in the heatbreack. Is this a problem?

Would this work for a kobra max?

Hey! Would that also work the Kobra 2 and/or do you have pointers how to? :)

Very cool. Dial in those settings a little bit more and you'll be in the money. You got a great deal on the printer too!

Nice parrot/parakeet 🙂

What socks are you talking about?

Looks great. How much did the acrylic run you?

This benchy looks awesome!! Did you do any firmware updates for max temp? I've been wanting to do this upgrade! The max temp on the kobra states 260c degree printing, but ptfe starts degrading at that temp? I've been printing PC at 250c and am worried about the ptfe wearing out and off gassing.

Aliexpress link?

you have the measurements of the acrilics panels?

can you link the adapter you uae to connect printer and powe at the same time please

😝 Promo>SM

by the time you do all the upgrades isn't it the same price as buying the x1 carbon?

That engraving turned out nice. I also got a Ender 3v2, bought it 2 years ago, still new in the box never opened it... want to make PCBs using photoresit with the UV laser. I also bought with the updated motherboard which have better stepper controller for higher motion control which should provide better laser engraving resolution.

Petg does not need an enclosure? Lol

HEADS UP FOLKS! This does not work now; if it ever did. Amazon parts speced are wrong sized. That might mean Anycubic changed decently, but lack of showing work done points to a shoddy how-to clickbait post.

Not every hero wears a cape! Working on installing mine. Half done as I ordered a set that didn’t come with the thermistor wires but those will arrive tomorrow!

Sealed up tight! Did you install a motherboard fan?