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@rosskrause3926 could be, the previous owner said he had to replace it and that it was really expensive

Sorry it was such a pain! I hope the reinstall goes very smoothly, as well as whatever you're working on in the mean time!

That ended up being the correct answer, even though the shifter was in neutral. Good thinking!

Yes, adjust the clutch pedal. I have to readjust mine too, it works but I have to almost stand on it when engaging with pto.

@@Zehn-X Thanks. We will give it a try.

Yep! It doesn't work

I'm with ya man, it's not for the faint of heart. Thankfully doing it takes common tools, and depending on your loader, you can still do a lot of engine stuff with it still installed. Good luck!

I can't imagine the size of that welt. Sorry man

Thank you! I bought a stabilizer kit and couldn't get it on while the loader is on, will have to figure it out before the next time. Love the feedback, thank you very much. Any requests?

Thank you!

coils are robust compared to other parts in dist cond. is first to go most of the time this causes pitting i n the points if you have pitting in points replace condenser --- it must be correct value mfd to match the coil electricly if not that causes pitting now all the points do is this as they open this remover the gd from cond lead and coil lead and points all connn that tiny screw thats side ways ---to prove this conn a ohm meter to that screwthe other meter lead to gd it depends on points open or closed if you get a reading open and close the points the reading will come and go . when everthing is working right this is what happens with switch on batt is conn to coil post as the points open that voltage flowes thru primary coil to the cond creating a magnet field in the secondary coil and due to turns ratio this a high voltage going to the dist top to fire a plug as point close this stops this happens very fast

Hello Frank, thank you for watching and for your comment. You clearly understand the mechanics of the ignition system pretty well. I (and others) have had trouble with condensers, and it makes sense that they're the first to go. Despite what you're suggesting, the coil and condenser were bad in this instance and I sought to show whomever would watch how you go about function testing these components.

Ha, thanks!

Hello Killerman, thanks for the comment. The manual for this tractor has a step by step troubleshooting routine if there's an actual mechanical failure in your system. Mine worked previously, so I skipped it this time. If I didn't have pressurized air, I would probably seal the fill and dipstick holes, then take the pump off and fill the send and return ports with as much hyd oil as it would take, then fill the pump with oil too and put them together like a sloppy joe. Tighten it up and try the engine and system as soon as I can to see if I'd get/keep prime. I'd then unload the extra oil if it worked, or catch it under my dipstick hole. Another option is to build the hose like I did, attach it to the hole on the pump and while running the tractor, use vacuum on the hose. All that said, my experience with this is relatively low, post your specific circumstance in the Ford forum on YesterdaysTractors.com - lots of people there who are happy to help!

@@Zehn-X ok ok.. theres a lot to try we will deffinetly try the loop of the hydraulic fluid, we really appreciate the response to our concern. Thanks Stephen.

@@kellerman_76 anytime, we're in this together!

Start the tractor low RPMs Losen Allen srew on top of pump with a 3/8 Allen wrench just Crack it enough to bleed air out of the system. Tighten when fluid bleeds out. Works better than pushing fluid through the system with compressed air.

@@dodge-ut6ti has that really worked for you? I removed the screw and attached a hose, didn't work. Added fluid to the hose, which is more like what you're suggesting, some bubbles came out but it didn't take either until I applied compressed air

Awesome

Thanks for the comment! I was warned not to use the bucket that way for potential damage to the hydraulic arms. Sounds like you didn't have any trouble though...

@@Zehn-X no one around to tell me not to :) don't see much difference between the pressure on one set of cylinders vs. The other. My second 841 has hooks welded to the bucket specifically to attach chains.

@@Step-n-Wolf I hear ya. Even when I heard that advice I was skeptical, but thought I'd pass it on regardless. Did the first 841 die? What do you do with your tractors?

Thanks for the comment! I did not wear the helmet properly, but I figure it would've done the job if something happened.

Indeed! Thanks for the comment.

Coming right up! First a video on fixing the loader...

Thanks! Me too. The whole time I had a feeling it was something simple or something dumb I did... Seems like the throttle is sluggish, is that normal for these?

I did this time, yes.

Yesterdaystractors.com forums are great. Any way I can help, let me know! Thanks for your comments

Hadn't heard that method, thank you! This one turned out to be jammed gears.

Hello James! Thanks for the comment and for reaching out. This is my first old tractor and I'm fascinated about how it works. If you ever post a video of starting and running the tractor, let me know, I'd love to see what it's supposed to be like.

Yeah I just got my first big tractor 1962 841. I drove it home 7 miles at 5 mph lol. You can find me on Facebook if you want. I don't get on you tube at home much. Jimmy Schumpert

@@JaminJimmySchumpy grinning the whole way home?

Yeah I was.

@@JaminJimmySchumpy There are a few Jimmy Schumperts on fbook. If you ever need help, check out the forums at YesterdaysTractors.com it's a very active site with many helpful people.

Hello Oscar, try searching for "2000 xterra timing belt replace" or "VG33 timing belt replace" in youtube or google search (put your correct year or engine in there) Lots of resources out there.

If you still can't find anything and you have a VG33 non-supercharged engine, sure I can help

@@Zehn-X pls....if you can me step by step...mine all is shredded just got out to cover off....this my plan ....tdc crank....and manually do cam sprocket also and make sure I'm at tdc ....and distributor rotor is plug # 1....let low if miss something. ..ty again for replying

@@oscarfidelino9692 yes, make sure to replace the water pump and timing belt tensioner too. Yes, get tdc, align crank and cams correctly, then put the belt on using the marks on the belt. Build the correct amount of tension on the belt before putting everything back together

Is that a rhetorical question?

Yes it is Dr. Motorhead, so let me elaborate. The video explains nothing, does not differentiate how it was pre-and-post install... "After replacing the timing belt, the 3.3L V6 cranks but won't start. Valve damage? Or something else? Turned out that the Distributor was not aligned properly." How was this corrected? What if someone is not getting fuel? Your video SUCKS, Nothing on how to solve the problem, does exactly what my engine does (could mine be a coil also gone bad?) and is a total waste of time.

@@qwins5200 well, after you go eat some protein, take a nap and reconsider your life choices, you'll be more ready to recognize that what you've quoted is EXACTLY what you're requesting. Next time read the other comments, ask a question, and maybe you'll receive what you want.

Protein...Check; Nap...Check, and reconsider my life choices...Check, and duly noted.

@@qwins5200 haha nice. Because it tries to turn over, you have fuel and spark. You'll probably have to pull the distributor, get tdc and align the rotor to plug one. Happy to help if you have questions.

exactly my thoughts regarding your comment.

la correa de distribución ya se ha cambiado. esto era un problema con el distribuidor. Gracias.

Awesome, that's why I posted this video. Yes - When you have TDC, the distributor rotor should be pointed at plug one wire. To do this, pull out plug one and the distributor, then turn the crank until you have air rushing out of the plug one hole. Then adjust the distributor so that when you drop it in place, it ends up pointing at plug one wire position. You'll have to have the distributor cap off to know where the rotor is pointing, so you might mark the position ahead of time. Good luck! Happy to help if you have more questions.

I’m having this issue after a head gasket replacement