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It is a warlord titan from Imperialis legion. All those models are scaled down. I have knights the size of regular space marine units. I am currently working on this warlord titan, the level of details on model is superb

Second this and agreed! Great models designed very well.

@@DeckDivMiniatures honestly it was my first time seeing someone painting model before assembling it

Honestly, I haven't used it yet, my friend. They do take quite some time to dry and I recommend painting oils over a primed/acrylic painted surface.

@@DeckDivMiniaturesI hear you I’m for that process of really thin layering I been working towards doing it with my acrylics and enamels I’m certain after watching a guy do two shields with oils I got this and it’ll be what was not working for me last time. So I am flexing my fingers in anticipation I’m tempted to lean toward not using linseed oil or at least a little to mix and for washes all day. But I might try some isopropyl/linseed mix to try evaporate some of the oils out. I dunno I’m thinking on a solution.

Glad you found a method that worked well! It's all about the experimenting

Isopropyl Alcohol is your answer my friend. Any general dollar store will have it. Try to get as high concentration as possible. Goodluck!

I'm glad you enjoy!! And yes I would recommend the iwata neo and the master airbrush cool runner compressor OR an equivalent Timbertech compressor. Master Airbrush also has a kit for around $150 that includes the compressor and some airbrushes if you don't want to go with the iwata Neo. Thats perfectly good enough and should last you a long time. Mine lasted several years. The most important thing is airbrush maintenance as that will put you put more than the compressor will. Thanks for watching💪👍

😂 lol! I always admire a confident person strong in their beliefs 💪!

Very great point and I couldn't agree more when I've used them. Abteilung has a fast dry thinner you could use that I'd reccomend giving a try. I haven't used it yet but I bet it will do justice. You could get some generic kind of drying additive maybe liquin at a hobby/craft store as well to help speed up the process

I actually have not but this is a splendid idea! Thank you for the reccomendation

Coming up soon:)

You are welcome! 'm so very happy that this worked out well for you! Happy painting friend:)

Спасибо! Я ценю, что вы смотрели, и надеюсь, что это помогло!

I appreciate your recommendationn! More tools to the tool box!!!

@@DeckDivMiniatures Welcome but you do need to wear gloves for this product but it works great.

How long do you let them soak?

@@Gakusangi I have had miniatures sit in it for weeks/a few months at a time but a 5-8 days should work. I like it since you can have a miniature sit in it and when you want to clean them off you can without any issue to plastic of metal miniatures. Just not sure about resin since I do not own that many miniatures made from resin.

Thanks so much! And i always give my models a final varnish of matt varnish from valejo when I'm done. What you saw me spray the base with was isopropyl Alcohol. I put a pigment powder to give it a dusty effect and it can be sealed better if you spray it with isopropyl Alcohol so I spritz that on after I do my pigment, I let it dry, then I'll go ahead and varnish the model to really seal all the paint.

Hey Floppy! Well to me it gives you the ability to paint parts from angles you can't paint it if it were all put together on certain models. Ive built/painted these titans 3 different ways. I painted this one in this video on Sprue but don't recommend it as it actually took me more time. I reccomend building the metal frame, painting it whatever metallic, and painting the panels separately off Sprue. Advantages: May be quicker and may be more efficient for a certain type of paint job (i.e. Tabletop Quality) Disadvantages: double edged sword because it may take you more time. It's really a personal preference and a thing you have to test out. For something like legions imperialis marines those are a perfect example of models that can be fully painted on Sprue very quickly if you want to get models tabletop ready and aren't worried about the quality of the paint job. Hope this helps!

@@DeckDivMiniatures I think I’m gonna try to paint some smaller parts on the sprew to just give me a better hold because my hands are very jittery and I can’t hold small things well Thanks 🤟👍

That means a lot and a goal I am trying to stick to so thank you!

Dang I hate to hear that for you. But yes I have heard that works well as well! Keep in mind to use what works best for you and what is most readily available.

Thanks for that! I really appreciate it and hope to see you around!

Beautifully said

😂

No sir isopropyl Alcohol! Acetone can degrade plastics so I don't reccomend using them.

@DeckDivMiniatures i mean acetone for metal. Then simple green for plastics.

@te9591 great reccomendation. Sounds like you've been in the hobby a lot longer than me lol I love pewter models though!! I have one video on an old azrael and it was a true joy to paint.

@@te9591 Acetone for metal works like a charm. Just be aware of the old plastic arms (usually snap off easily when glued with CA) and bases, acetone will dissolve both into a gooey mess.

Thanks! Hope it helps.

Always will have a special place in my heart!

@@DeckDivMiniatures yeah I agree..

isn't that wild? Insane the amount of stuff you can do. I just play around with certain apps that have worked well ya know. We are truly lucky to live in this time period!

Haha! xD The audio definitely sucks for this video. It was recorded in my car. I am working on having a better mobile setup to have better recording quality when out and about! Most of my editing is done away from home

xD lol yea the audio quality from my mic sucked on this one lol

No it should be fine for resin as well. I have used this method on forge world models and its turned out great with no damage to the resin what so ever. I wouldn't leave it in there an excessive amount of time but for an hour long dip or so you should have no problem.

Just don't let resin bits sit in alcohol solution for too long! It gets brittle and can warp or even sort-of "explode" on you. Some FW resin even got rubbery (in some cases from YT videos I've seen). I've learned the hard way when I let my Leman Russ tank with an extra resin engine sit in it for too long: the resin completely broke apart. (Kromlech tank engine)

I like this idea! I definitley re use a lot of my stripping mediums Like LA's Totally awesome.

@@DeckDivMiniatures It works really fast as well.

It is great paint!

@@DemandAlphabetBeBrokenUp testers does make some nice products. I will have to give it a shot. Thanks!

Thank you Jason! I'm glad you are enjoying. Glad to have you on board brother

Hey Zack, no it does not threaten the integrity of the plastic model itself. It only takes he paint off but I haven't experimented with it for anything over 1 day. Generally Isopropyl doesn't degrade metals or plastic.

That's interesting man I haven't tried that yet! I love GSW they have great products and the shipping actually doesn't take as long as id expect. Ill be trying some of this in the near future.

Yeah seconded this. The gsw paint remover is really great, just dip it in for few minutes then you can strip the paint. The only gripe is the odour

@@alai5332 this is great advice. Thank you! I'm going to pick some up now!

is it any good? Ive never used it!

@@DeckDivMiniatures strips paint like a dream, couple of minutes in that thing and miniature is almost like new it's also really helpful with big models

This sounds like something I want to experiment with. Another user mentioned GSW's Paint Killer. I'm going to try both.

Yes It is safe on plastic models!

@@DeckDivMiniatures Good to know, thanks!

@@ChaseDaOrk3767 Anytime

Yes I always Prime My minis. I recommend using primers specifically made for miniature/scale modeling. If you cant get your hands on any of that you may want to soak your models longer.

The solvent in spray can primers can dissolve the upper-most layer of plastic minis and thus the primer coat can stick to the plastic quite well in some cases. If it's just a thin coat, you might as well go ahead and not try to get it off. Airbrush primers don't have that problem.

This is a top tier tip! Thanks for the recommendation I may just have to go in on a ultra sonic cleaner!

@@DeckDivMiniatures be careful, some cleaner have a heating feature. And even without using it, it can heat up the alcohol and make vapour. To be used in room with air flow.

Thanks for that information. So thankful for your knowledge and experience that can help me make smarter decisions in the future!

​@@lorrnoke99you can put the IPA inside of a plastic container with a lid, and then put that container into the ultrasonic cleaner. You'll get the same cleansing effect due to how ultrasonics work but you won't risk fumes being potentially ignited.

@@weemanling Good tip man.

@haroldh3 yes it can if it is an acrylic varnish made specifically for miniature painting/scale modeling. Anything else used for other purposes I can't speak for but for general varnish it will absolutley work!

🤣 this is a great reccomendation. 🤣

If you do drop thing down the drain pray its in the debris trap

Rip to all the Tau aerials lost at sea 😂😭

@@Xarl-VIII We can only have hope! Lmao

Thought it was a good idea to clean and assemble my Airbrush in the sink...now I know how to clean and assemble a siphon, too...😅

😂 go get em my friend!! I also have some other terminators sitting in a LAs totatally awesome solution! Lol

@alexnaccarato8978 thank you so much Alex. Here to try and make your day better. Stay true

Thank you so very much:)