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Write where you can download the application, I downloaded one application and did not receive the password for registration 🙏😢

thx for the video picked up a few tips

Which power wire from the car

Just brilliant video. For siz long months...I been manually turning on CH get HW. I can finally see what problem is and find a cheap solution i just needed to know (how to unclip unit off pipe, how to test unit). I really didnt want to pay a plumber 80 labour + 80 part for what was a simple job.. Edit : ANOTHER USEFUL VIDEO ruclips.net/video/0MKnKj5bdzY/видео.html Bless this channel !!!!

You jumped to how to put on glass bed, their are two screws at the back do you put the glass bed on top of the screws? This video is how to install glass bed and you jumped ahead to already installed, take down this terrible instruction video and stop putting up videos .

It’s not letting me register it’s not accepting the code and it’s not sending me the verification

Looks like its now dead dead. Doorbell no longer connects. App has stopped working and no longer in Play store. ☹️

Am I right in thinking when it's just the heating it would be on one side, just the water on the other and if both are on it's in the middle? Mine seems to get to the middle and then just keeps clicking/

would like to have a conversation if available

Just wondering why you skipped showing how to replace. I assumed that was the point of the video

Thank you so much ❤

Good job.

Thanks for posting

where the heck can you buy those cable splitter you made at 4:55? I cant find it anywhere, and I dont know how to wiring them together like that

Hey please i wait 10 months for help and respond :C ENDER 5 PLUS MOTHERBOARD 4.2.7 WITH NEW lcd tochscreen i dont know how to maka a marlin i only put the firmware on lcd now printer works but acts like it was ENDER 3 PRO not ENDER 5 PLUS So i guess i need to change configuration but this is too complicated for me :C please help me or someone

I've downloaded your files from Thingverse and ran the compiled file through progisp (which is in my root folder) the board is correct, and deffintly have bootloader on baord. only thing is the fuse bits aren't the same as in the video. tried the original ones that came up when I clicked the read button. then i tried yours but it always comes up with the same error "flash verify error at:1h", from then on same error every time and screen turns on but is blank. then I tried flashing the origonal ender 5 pro 1.1.15 software but then comes up with the error "flash verify error at: 2h".spent the last 3 days striaght on this is their any advice you can give to fix the issue????

check your wiring its wrong.. check your wiring its wrong

my rear speakers are quiet and the sound comes in weaves . sometimes complete no sound. also the subwoofer after using it for 10-15 min it stucks playing the bass. could it also be an power issue?

Hey how are the headphones now? Are the at the same quality as originally

everything is wired right now . have the screen powering up and was able to flash its firmware but cant get the mainboard .. i got the .bin file from thiniverse but its not doing anything when i boot up on it

Do you have a link to premade jst splitters? I do not have all those tools to create one.

What does it mean when the touch screen is not working but I get to the home screen?

Great video . any chance you'd like to share your your files ??? really struggling to get this going !!!!

Great, clear well done video. Just done exactly this on MK1 Audi S3 (same switch just housed differently) And it worked a treat 👌

If you are still able to print these could I please buy some from you? Thanks

my headphones just broke 1 week later this video was posted, i'm glad to see that it can be repaired, thank you!

Hi AMP, the correct P/N should be BA00AS, not BA08CC. It will work, but it isn't correct. You can clearly see even in your video, that the two voltage reference resistors just next to the stabilisator are present even on your PCB.

Stock motherboard is garbage

Any chance you have the firmware and the DWIN files to match? Also quick tip you can rotate the connectors on the board so you don’t have to swap the bltouch wires around for the Zstop

What's the size of the speakers? Need to buy new ones and don't know the size.

Where. And how much did the parts cost?

I just did this upgrade. Everything is working well except it seems that I have an issue where the z step will step up and not step down. Did you have to increase the current on the z axis for the stepper motors?

Excuse me, do you know how to synchronize the control with the central box?

found your aproach very usefull for a toyota wiper linkage! thanks!

Hi Mate any chance you can attach a link to the firmware.BIN file for the 4.2.7 Board please I have the firmware for the screen all done and working I have tried to build the firmware in platformio but I keep getting errors starting to become very frustrating. I have tried the firmware from the link to thingiverse it doesnt work either. I have made sure my SD Card works to upload the firmware formatted to fat 32 and 4039 as it uploads the firmware to the screen fine. if you could share a link to the *.bin file that would be great Cheers

Your vidoe helped me in the first 40 seconds I hadn't checked to see if the light stays on inside! Mine didn't? I had repaced the fuse and still not my double gang socket for soem reason the right side burnt out! Plugged it into the left and hey presto! Was about to strip the machine apart! 😅

So I followed this completely and am having a couple issues. The screen firmware went through but my screen just stays showing the boot logo of marlin. My bl touch probe extends twice and stays red. Any help on what I may be missing would be great. I also noticed the board isn’t taking the new firmware.

Hi, did this permanently fix this issue? Did the board blow up again after you fixed it? Thanks

Great video! I’ll be honest I was hoping to see the rotating cluster dimmer dial worked on as well. I’ve had three switches over the years and dials on all three acted differently. Only worked “okay” whereas the others either barely made a change, or would start bright, get slightly dimmer, then get bright again

This video is awesome! I was looking at my 5 Plus yesterday and i was wondering why it's using a different motherboard and firmware when it's basically same hardware setup as Ender3++ I currently have an highly modified and not anymore Ender3 Pro and an Ender3 V2, i run on both Mriscoc firmware which i just love what it does to your machine. It gives you unbelievable many more options and settings... So now i was looking at my Ender5 plus and i wanted the same thing but i wanted to make sure i can run 4.2.7 motherboard on it. So you showed me that YES it works great 👍 But Mriscoc works only with 24 bit color screen that Ender3 V2 has and to be honest im not a big fan of touch screen either so i think this is a great option for this upgrade. Thank you very much for this great video 😎👍

Would it be possible to drill a small hole in the housing, on the bearing centreline, through which you could add a drop of oil ?

hey bud what is the max depth of the rear speaker hole ?

Huge thank you🎉😊

Hang on wheres the steps on how you put these files into the printer?

I have a massive issue with the 10 pin cable. Are you not able to just use the existing cable? I understand the clip on it is backwards but could you not cut a small square in the plastic and make it connect the original way round?

Thanks for this video. I have had problems with my heating working intermittently for the last few months. It will work fine for a few days or maybe a week and then the boiler won’t fire when the call for heat is made. If I turn it all off for a couple of days and then start again it will work again for a while. I assumed it was the boiler at fault nd maybe the PCB but then I noticed the hot water on its own works fine, boiler fires no problem and it works as it should. It only seems to be when CH only is selected. I can hear the boiler clicking on and off trying to start so I think it communicates with the room stat, goes to start and then the mid position actuator doesn’t move as it should. Does this sound the likely issue to you because if it was the brass valve then the hot water wouldn’t work either? Thanks.

Hi, I have HW-K950 as well, recently my right satellite and subwoofer unable to link to main soundbar, is it repairable?

4:14 Which button?

I also have a ender 5+, glad i found this. I also had the cr touch issue with the wires being crossed. But I have 2 additional fans it looks like? Black and red wires one running to the case fan and the other is a fan by the extruder. But i still have the yellow/blue wire fan. Any chance you can shed some light on how to deal with this? Can i make a 2 to 1 connection for a fan port? Edit: i missed you plugged it into the board power bar thing But which fan is stripped and put into the board by the power connections? Does it make sense to put the case fan into the power block and the extra one connected to the print head into the board? Editx2: you do mention its the fan for the hot end. So you dont want that variable? There is an extra spot on the board that can either be the case fan or that fan.

Excellent Video!, mine have broken, but unfortunately dont have a 3d printer are the little parts available to buy? Thanks.