Видео

30-45 minutes

Someone already beat me to it :)

And subscribers…. Haha. Like everyone, trying to make a little money with these side job videos. 278 down, 722 to go! Thanks for the positive feedback.

If it has the factory spring clamps, the best tool I have come across for those is the flexible cable clamp pliers. They just allow you to get into so many places where there’s less room for handles or hands. They are pretty cheap on amazon too.

I am not sure I understand what you are trying to explain. Which seal? I doubt the clutch fork would be messed up, but if you have to redo any of the process with the drum after it’s been “released” you will need to have the special tools and process to re-lock it.

Thank you!

You’re welcome.

If you just drain and fill, you will only be changing about 1/3 of the fluid. I would not recommend that.

Unfortunately I don’t have unlimited access to that data. I pay by the vehicle for a 30 day look when there’s a job that I want to see the procedures for or get the hours. That’s probably about right for book time. It likely includes drain, refill, bleed, and test time. And like always there could be recommended removal of components that aren’t absolutely necessary.

Didn’t see that in my reading. I definitely would have tried it!

Isn’t that usually how it works. The customers cars are nice, rust free. The mechanics cars are rusty and the dash looks like Christmas.

Good deal

Glad I could help!

The compressor pushes oil through the system. There’s usually some that gets trapped in the condenser and drier. A lot of people go ahead and replace the drier if you open the system at all, just from potential moisture.

Glad you liked it.

Thank you

The climate control module may have tabs on the back that hold in the center section above. You could try it without removing those pieces and it might work out. This was just the steps in the procedure so I followed them.

Thank you.

I really enjoy getting reviews like this. One of my main goals is to help people do their own work and save some money. I’m glad you were able to use my video.

Once the leaks, blockages, and moisture are out, and a full charge is in there should be greatly improved cooling. In these Fords there’s also been some problems with blend doors and actuators that prevent cold air from making it to the vents.

No, it’s not necessary to remove any subframe for this job. The rear subframe holds the power steering rack and I did not take any of that loose. There’s plenty of room.

Glad it could hopefully help fix yours

PCV stand for positive crankcase ventilation, it should only have 1, I believe it’s on the back of the intake manifold on that one. No PCV valve will be on the firewall to my knowledge.

@@everydayfixes416 so it's on the driver side. When your standing on the driver side looking behind the engine . Well I got a pcv valve and when thru have it to me it didn't have those arm looking things were the rubber things attach. Then they told me it was on the passenger side. Now I looked them up their 2 different ones. I wish I can show you the pictures of what I'm talking about really.

Hope it was helpful

Amen

You bet!

Glad it could help.

I’ve seen some cases where there is enough clearance for the ball joint to be driven up and out and still clear the axle, but most likely you’ll need to pull it. You could measure tip to top of the ball joint on your new control arm, and compare it to the distance from your control arm to the axle in the ball joint area. Then you’d know for this vehicle before trying.

I was thinking the same thing.

Thanks for the info!

Since I don’t do these every day it’s probably 2-3 hours if all the parts are ready.

@@everydayfixes416 That's amazing.

Where are you located?

@@everydayfixes416 Boston, MA.

@@tedd7028 I’m in KS so shipping might make it counter productive

Assuming you mean torque for all the bolts. I use AllData

Which parts?

The black piece the hoses hook to

@@flgatorman99 engine coolant/water outlet

It is a manual transmission with computer controlled actuators. The failures are not always all components. Sometime an actuator can fail independently, in which case you can simply remove and replace. Many times the clutch drum fails and the actuators motors are fine.

I believe it’s just a little under 2 qts of Motocraft XT11QDC fluid.

Brand new pads often make noise until they are broke in

And also sometimes it’s just the metallic nature of the pads. You may try roughing the pads slightly.

I know what you mean, this is one of those jobs that definitely swayed my opinion from neutral to negative on these Escapes.

Glad it was helpful!

And the savings of not paying a shop!

Thanks

The axel is bolted to the axel tube through the 4 bolt flange and dust cover/seal plate, and then also the rotor is held inside the caliper. Nothing is going to come off on a hard corner.

Sorry to disappoint you, but a 4 lb slide hammer was the real world. In the right hand side I simply put a pry bar between the axel and pinion and popped it out.

Didn’t remove any clips, you can pop them out with a pry bar or a 4 lb slide hammer removed it just like you saw.

I have seen that before, this model doesn’t have the removable clips.

Welcome!

You bet!

Rockauto.com

The sheet metal screws I got from a local metal supplier for post frame buildings. But you can get them from ace hardware. Just look for the kind with metal and rubber washers.