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I have recently bought a S-Drive and Atari 800 recently to re-live my childhood (The Atari 800 was my first machine). I found your video useful in showing me how to use the S-Drive. Thanks ! Can I save and load BASIC programs on the S-Drive? If so, how?

very helpful. thank you

muchas gracias cabra🐐🐐

thank you so match sir

This series has been extremely helpful for me in a work project. The pacing is perfect and it's just the right amount of information. I've paid for a lot of content over the years that was lower-quality than this. Thank you!

If you set the timing of the slides (jpeg) for 5 sec, how to adjust the time of any videos, having videos with different duration?

Do you have an email address I would like to ask you a few questions about

Great video - question. How did you fix your MESR-100 tester when you tested a charged cap? I just did it and it's not working now. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks.

This is definitely something I needed to see as I'm not familiar with KiCAD but I know Inkscape very well. While I would like to better know and understand KiCAD, my initial response is to use the tool(s) I know best. I was very close to getting this process down right the first time. I made the mistake of using R12 instead of R14 but also, when I imported R12, it just came in wrong. It was a single vertical line. I'll try it again the way you did it. But also, I do not yet understand all of the specific layers and how to work with them. I'm not well versed in the process or the terms used. For the moment, that feels like my biggest stumbling block. But one thing I would like to know is how to do things using ONLY KiCAD. When you completed the main task, you went on and said "OK now I have this ground plane..." and you spoke of what you would do but then you don't do it. Same for some other details. I really wanted to see those things and people tend to gloss over these things as if "everyone already knows." I don't know. Let me tell you a story from my childhood. My first grade teacher assigned us to learn to count to 100. I only knew 10 and the teens a little but mostly just what was on Sesame Street. So I asked my mother to teach me. She told me to ask my older brother. My older brother walked me through the teens and the 20s. He ASSUMED I would recognize the pattern and apply it to 30s - 90s and then finish with 100. NOPE! I was unexposed to that and was never asked to confirm what I learned from my brother. What he taught me was "21, 22, 23, 24, 25, 26, 27, 28, 29" Then he said "30, 40, 50, 60, 70, 80, 90, 100!" So I went to school and was trashed by my teacher who told me I did it wrong and I was completely humiliated. I was a beginner. My bother was not. My mother didn't care that much about teaching us anything. (trauma right?) My brother thought going through the process of TEACHING (which is interactive) was too tedious and so he "glossed over it" and I captured exactly what he said as if it were completely accurate. It wasn't. And it certainly wasn't complete. You glossed over EVERYTHING. I know Inkscape well so that didn't matter to me so much... but I guarantee you that anyone experienced KiCAD user who didn't know or understand Inkscape will feel that you glossed over Inkscape leaving them to struggle over a simple task. And of course, you glossed over KiCAD in the process as well. I did get "something" out of it. And that was "export using R14 into the edge cut layer." That's it. That's the whole thing in 8 words. I would have gotten a LOT more if you actually did more in KiCAD other than "saying I would do this and that and these other things" but you didn't do them and you could have and it would have been a better video. I don't know why people who try to put out information find it tedious to put out information. I started my "tech life" learning to program. And there is no such thing as "glossing over" learning to program. Everything is detail and all of the details have meaning and they all work together. There's no way in hell I would try to teach someone to program without going into necessary detail and demonstrating in detail how things work. Don't assume the viewer knows things. If they know things, why are they WATCHING? You could just put out 8 words! Export using R14 into the edge cut layer. That's the whole video. You didn't even need to make a video. You didn't go into useful detail with Inkscape. You didn't go into useful detail with KiCAD. You glossed over the whole thing.

Hi Stuart, This is great content, I'm new to pi, but not computers in general, some of this stuff goes over my head but I have fast reflex's and catch most of it. I've been Tasked with this Exact project (1st one with a pie). I tried one of the fancy options but it required continual internet access and also overwrote any of my changes to the config.txt file. So as a Noob Id Like to follow your path. To do so can you nudge me in the direction of what OS is best to use with this, it seems like everyone and their brothers uncle have options to chose from. NooB again, I ask because You mention Xwin desktop and also suggest using a newer raspberry os. pie 3b+ aduitfruit 5" 800X480 display stand alone set and forget no wifi/net, Kb/mouse, sound needed. or available after setup. single video on repeat Art install have clean slate micro flash have RPi imager Use windows on desktops :)

Hi Stuart! Thanks for this awesome tutorial. I am trying to sniff a "wake on" packet from an ipad to a insta 360 X3. There is no active connection when the camera is off, but the ipad can turn it on via BLE. I cannot see the packets on wireshark unless the insta cam is fully powered up. Suggestions on how to sniff these packets?

I've found that the DER DE-5000 LCR meter is a much better choice than the GME in that price range. I've had great success with it, and its in-circuit ESR performance is quite good. A recommended improvement for the DER is to make your own Kelvin test clips for the unit. A good test for it was a subwoofer amp that had 12 out of its 16 electrolytics gone to the dark side. All 12 read bad both in-circuit and out-of-circuit. Accurate in-circuit ESR testing is extremely useful. The unit is also excellent for testing inductors, and of course resistors. One MUST DISCHARGE THE CAP first. Beyond safety for the unit, a small charge left on a cap can confuse an ESR/C meter.

I have the same DMM. It drifts by about 20mV pretty soon after calibration.

Thanks for the tips, i also got a cheap one but i thought it was off reading higher then my others, turns out the others were too low when i checked it against a reference. I used the 3.3v pin on a stm32 microcontoller, maybe not the most accurate but the cheap meter read 3.331 so i figure it was ok, and calibrated the other to 3.3v. It was off by .05v which doesnt sound like much, but even for hobyyists setting proper voltages for batteries, you really dont want to be off by much charging a lithium cell. Good stuff, now i got a another usable multimeter. Even if theyre a little off having them all the same is nice.

The processor section of Arduino IDE doesn't exist anymore, or at least I can't find it, now how do I fix it?

Excellent video Stuart! I am using KiCad version 7, and when I open the Image Converter tool, there is only one 'button' namely Load Source Image, no button to save or export the changed file. Any recommendations? I know version 8 is out, but I'd like to finish a project with version 7. Thanks in advance.

ugly crappy chinese alligator test leads. There is more plastic than copper. Typically 6-8 strands only. By so low copper you get what ever readings because bad connection. Buy or make DIY way better than that garbage

A bit strange that the pot has this huge range from 4.2 to 5 volts. These 10 turn pots are not known for stability. A bit of vibration could influence the setting. Usually the range is much smaller. Also check other ranges like resistance and current to verify that the fault was with the pot.

Unfortunately DMMs with manual ADC adjustment pots are becoming a thing of the past in modern designs. For instance, UNI-T made an update to this model - UT61E+. It no longer has any pots.

Is configuring the on/off switch to auto restart necessary if the Pi already has a power switch? Or this only for version older than Raspberry Pi 5 (which is what I am currently using)?

thank you so much i was about to throw it out i bought some cheap arduino and thought maybe it just doesnt work

Really enjoyed the project! Well done!

Love the project! Excellent job man!

Many thanks!

I like the RC2014 although it is a relative new design it is based upon old technology, and classical electronic parts, with this a new retro computer was made. Many times completely new boards were designed and often it could be combined with other cards, but not always.

I've been using my OMTech K40 for a few months now, and I'm not impressed. The machine is cheaply made and constantly breaks down.

I built my first z80 system in 1986. I still remember pulling the first all-nighter of my young life getting it up and running. Glad to see there are still people out there who are keeping the flame alive. Nice chat, thanks to both of you!

Great video! I've just managed to get my SDrive-MAX up and running after having bought an 800XL that came with one but, the screen touch functionality was broken. Replaced the screen and then had nothing showing - your video showed me how to successfully get this gadget working again. Thank you. I just now need to figure out how to use it :)

Great video - thanks for sharing. I was hooked on Shamus too. My other favs include Flip and Flop, Encounter and Star Raiders :)

hi, i have a BLE device that i use with an android app on my phone. When i get into the APP in my phone i have to enter a password (it is always the same password). Then i can open or close the blind on my swimming pool. I would like to catch the BLE Frame that is send when i open my app with password and then the frame that open or close . Is it possible to catch the 3 frames (login, open or close) with wireShark and or nRF ?

hi, good video. Is it possible to use this method to decode an BLE Device that require a password ?

I love my RC2014. I wish I had access to this technology when I was young and just learning about computers

I can see my port but whenever i try to upload my code, this shows up: ketch uses 1486 bytes (4%) of program storage space. Maximum is 32256 bytes. Global variables use 200 bytes (9%) of dynamic memory, leaving 1848 bytes for local variables. Maximum is 2048 bytes. avrdude: stk500_recv(): programmer is not responding avrdude: stk500_getsync() attempt 1 of 10: not in sync: resp=0x34 avrdude: stk500_recv(): programmer is not responding avrdude: stk500_getsync() attempt 2 of 10: not in sync: resp=0x34 avrdude: stk500_recv(): programmer is not responding avrdude: stk500_getsync() attempt 3 of 10: not in sync: resp=0x34 avrdude: stk500_recv(): programmer is not responding avrdude: stk500_getsync() attempt 4 of 10: not in sync: resp=0x34 avrdude: stk500_recv(): programmer is not responding avrdude: stk500_getsync() attempt 5 of 10: not in sync: resp=0x34 avrdude: stk500_recv(): programmer is not responding avrdude: stk500_getsync() attempt 6 of 10: not in sync: resp=0x34 avrdude: stk500_recv(): programmer is not responding avrdude: stk500_getsync() attempt 7 of 10: not in sync: resp=0x34 avrdude: stk500_recv(): programmer is not responding avrdude: stk500_getsync() attempt 8 of 10: not in sync: resp=0x34 avrdude: stk500_recv(): programmer is not responding avrdude: stk500_getsync() attempt 9 of 10: not in sync: resp=0x34 avrdude: stk500_recv(): programmer is not responding avrdude: stk500_getsync() attempt 10 of 10: not in sync: resp=0x34 Failed uploading: uploading error: exit status 1

10:40 Hi! Thanks so much for these great videos! I’ve got my sniffer board working and I seem to be able to see Bluetooth packets. But I’m stuck on the filtering. You seem to be selecting the Bluetooth devices from a bar with Interface, Device, beneath the main Filter bar at the top of the Wireshark interface, but for the life of me I can’t figure out how to get those buttons to show up in my interface. Is there a menu option to add that, or is that a plugin or something? (Or do I need to go back to part 1 and watch closer? 😅) Thanks!

AWESOME!!! 👍

Great stuff Stu. You earned a new SUB today.

Thank you so much for these videos! I’m trying to reverse engineer the Bluetooth controller for my RGB pool light, so I can hook it into my Home Assistant, and after watching this, I feel like maybe this is within my capabilities 😅 Cheers!

Working on my own digital signage software !! Got tired of dealing with yodeck and others that use the raspberry pi platform.. I have it running on 4 and 5 models and also working on install scripts to have it run on Debian

Cool. It would be even cooler if you could simply assemble logical elements from transistors with your own hands, from them logical functions and circuits. And perform some easy calculation with an ALU made using them.

what software? i get to the website i chose the version i want but then i get confusing choices and i cant figure out how to download Debian is the closes to raspberry pi

sir i cant see any processer option in the tools

holy smokes you fixed my pro micro! so glad I didn't throw it away. I hit upload and just touched a piece of metal to gnd + reset 2x real quick and it said it was successful!!!! THANK YOU KIND SIR!!!

Why does your pro micro look like a pro macro??? That thing is huge compared to mine. Don't get cocky about it though.

Great, straight forward and clear information. Thanks for posting! At the beginning of your video you mentioned more advanced packages that you considered overkill for your project. What were those packages? I'm interested because we're thinking about digital signage for conferences as well, but we may want to add interactivity or explore other options.

Thank you! Helped a lot!

Thanks for posting this. Hoping to use this at the next retro computer convention as digital signage.

I don’t know why the algorithm brought me here, but I’m not leaving.

so i’ve tried this, and i get nothing. is there a way to completely reset the board as it was from the factory

The HCT32 is drawn incorrectly. It is a positive OR gate; 1=TRUE. A TRUE OR a TRUE equals a TRUE. What we want is for it to be a negative AND gate; 0=TRUE. A TRUE AND a TRUE equals a True. The HCT32 should be drawn as an AND gate with bubbles on all three pins. Then its function is crystal clear. It literally says, "If MREQ-not is TRUE (low) AND WR-not is TRUE (low), then WR-not is TRUE". My college teacher literally beat this convention into me. From that point on, all of my schematics read, to an engineer or tech, like sheet music reads to a maestro. The inverter is expressed correctly by these rules. It says, "When we are addressing the high half of memory (A15=high), CE-not is TRUE".

This was so helpful! I thought my pro micro was worthless, but now I can use it again! RUclips needs more indepth, useful videos like this.