Видео

It's CR1632 :)

Hey! Sorry, missed your comment for some reason. Problems like these usually indicate there's a problem with the wiring. You've already checked all wires and they're properly seated and not damaged(?), and even replaced the Junction A... Does this happen on the stand too? I think I would disconnect everything and build the most minimal Di2 system: Junction A, one shifter, one derailleur. See if it shifts fine then. *You don't even need a junction B, so I would leave that out at first too. If the bare minimum system shifts, add components one at a time until the problem comes back. That component (or wire/junction) will be the faulty one ;)

​@@BetterShifting Thank you, I will try it! It's just the fact that it happens almost procedurally that made me thought software issue. Also it started happening right after I recharged the battery (after it having died on a ride). But in the meantime I brought it to a shop and they reflashed the firmware (?) and it hasn't helped. Minimal system is a good idea.

@@squiresuzuki let me know how it goes! I won’t wait 10 days before replying this time 😅😅

Thanks! I’m just getting the older stuff out of the way. 12-speed videos on everything coming next :)

Yeah, that’s pretty nice too. I recorded footage for an SC-MT800 video too… I’ll get that up next week :)

hah, thanks! I am slowly getting the YT presence up to scratch, and these two videos were an easy way to start :)

Hey! Apparently I missed a lot of comments :}. This model does not have a bluetooth interface, but it is compatible with the EW-WU111 (when used with the BT-DN110 battery)

Thanks! Ask me anything! Apparently I missed a lot of comments..

Hi! Sorry... I hope you got it sorted by now :}. If not, definitely check out @di2_gp on instagram!

I had same problem

There is an "error connecting master unit" when you do what? When you try to connect to the bike, or when you do something else? Since it is a new bike, the easiest solution would be to ask the bike shop to fix it for you - should be warranty/service, right? ;)

I too got no light indication, but further searching told me you must hold the 2 levers simultaneously for a full 1 or 2 seconds. Then I got the light indication.

No - I tried a few weeks ago. The larger connector block section of the dn300 gets in the way :(

@@BetterShifting I've got travel bike with S&S couplers and all traditional external cable routing. I'm trying to make DN-300, 12 speed set up work. I just got SM-BTC1 and seems massive for how little the N-300 Battery. Any thoughts suggestions for making it all work other then having someone 3-D print something modifying a mini frame pump to be shroud?

@@runningwithshempyeah, the BTC1 is huuuge, and it doesn’t work with the DN300 all that well in my experience. 3D printing would probably be best, but other locations can work too… I have out batteries in handlebars, TT extensions, fork steerers, etc… anything will do, as long as it’s secure.

Yeah... the chargers don't work with V5, unfortunately. V4.0.4 and V3.4.5 should work fine though ;-)

I tried to figure it out, but yeah… Shimano used some kind of sticky clay/glue. If I see a friendly Shimano mechanic at Eurobike today, I’ll ask ;)

@@BetterShifting cool. In the meantime i have use a small piece of double sided sticky tape which is what the bike shop suggested

It's not 2032, so none of them :)))

@@NeoPayneHK ah yeah, sorry.. I was on my way home :))). I spoke to Shimano last year and they said that 1632.is only made in a couple of factories, and that the overall quality is higher than the cr2032 variants out there.. whether or not this is true... Don't know - but they basically said that any 1632 is a good 1632 :)

If it's just clicking, that's probably a warranty case :(. I would double check the limits, chain length and shifter, but I suspect the Rd is faulty.

Interesting! Not sure, I'll need to look it up tomorrow - busy evening today :)

@@BetterShifting I'll call Shimano next week and see what they have to say. Dont go thru any trouble Terry. Thx for responding so quickly though

@@WowRixter Let me know what they say! ;-)

A lot of people do that, and it seems to be fine. Mine is in the handlebar drop though - I never put them in the seat post myself :)

@@BetterShifting Thanks Terry. It looked like yours was in the seat tube 😉

@@WowRixter haha, yeah.. fair enough 😇. Just for this video though :)))

Synchro you mean? I'm usually on semi-synchro. Full synchro is useful on TT bikes :)

@@BetterShifting Yes the semi or full synchro. I'll have to give semi a try

Let's hope so! :) It's different for 12-speed Di2 too.. you cannot just connect using the charger, and only the PCE02 will work.

Woo! Thanks! Let me know if there's anything missing - I'm always writing new pages:)

It works with 1 1/4" fork steerers, as well as 1 1/8" ones.. so I think that's a yes - giant bikes use 1 1/4 as far as I know.

@@BetterShifting thanks for respond my question but still wondering my Propel router the cables through the stem then behind the steerer tub but Pro vibe Evo handlebar run the cable in front of the steerer tub. Does Giant Propel still works with Pro vibe evo handlebars?

@@richardsondiamond1905 it can also route through the stem, but I'm not sure whether it'd work for your. Like you said, behind vs in front of steerer tube... Here is the manual, it shows the three different routing options: drive.google.com/file/d/1Znw95erCod7mJgAFim9xDefMWHaks8Hz/view?usp=drivesdk I *think* you should be able to route it behind the steerer tube, looking at part #6.. but I can't tell for sure..

Thanks you for your advice but at the moment very hard to order this item I had been looking over six months i just got my ordered last week but in the box I didn’t see Spacers and computer mounts so can you help me to order pro Vibe Evo Spacers and computer mounts Best regards Richardson,

@@richardsondiamond1905 it depends on where you are in the world, I guess :). Personally I prefer Wahoo 's own mount - it's a bit cheaper. The PRO mount is very expensive for what it is. I can probably find the spacers somewhere.

Hi Max! You can, yep! You would use the ew-ad305 to connect a junction B to the new levers, and connect the aerobar shifters to that. There's more on that here: bettershifting.com/build-a-12-speed-di2-time-trial-triathlon-bike/

Hey Alex! They can be updated using the mobile app, actually! It is a pain, but it can be done - you just need to connect the shifter you want to update to the 'spare' port on the battery (or anywhere else). So you need an extra ew-sd300 wire, yeah.. that is a bit meh. You can indeed use the PCE02 with the ad305 adapter, but there is also a new link cable coming for the PCE02 - one with an sd300 end plug. The part number is Y79M9801T, but bike shops tell me they can't get it yet.. and if you search for it on Google you will find just my page. There is more on updating the levers here: bettershifting.com/update-the-firmware-on-12-speed-hydraulic-shift-levers/

@@BetterShifting ohhhhh!!!!! Uuuuuhhhhhh !!!!! Who are you???? Like , subscribe , kudos and everything for you!!!!! I need to do this upgrade, I can't see anymore these "!" On my screen. I will try to do this is I find this cable somewhere in Greece.

@@ioannidesalex haha, you can probably get an EW-SD300 somewhere - they are used on e-bikes too :). The alternative is to unplug the FD and use that wire to update each shifter.. but that means you'd take each shift lever off the handlebar and update it :(

(which is a pain of you've already built the bike)

@@BetterShifting I already feel a relief and I will sleep better. When I find the adapter and the cable I will do this and let you know .

Hey! I think I would first try going to the phone's Bluetooth device list and forgetting / deleting the power meter from there. Let me know if that doesn't help :)

It doesn't work in all regions, unfortunately. You can still use the app without an account though!

@@BetterShifting sounds good! Thanks! However I’m having issues trying to pair the junction box (EW-RS910) when I depress the button it does not go into pairing mode no red green lights flashing. I installed the EW-WU111 however no luck, any thoughts?

The lights green red do work when I shift the though. Sorry new to this system so a little confusing, maybe I should connect to my laptop and see if any updates will fix the issue?

@@kevinspiteri9590 does it skip pairing mode and go straight into adjustment mode? Are you sure you have the BT-DN110 battery? It won't work with the SM-BTR1 internal battery for example.

@@BetterShifting oh I see I did not check that I will check that when I get home. So the junction box will not flash red/green if the battery is not the correct type?

Not as far as I know - not even using the PCE1/PCE02 :(

It shouldn't normally go into crash mode easily though.. I've hit mine with a hammer before and it still didn't go into crash mode.. if it's still under warranty I'd try to get it replaced.

Hoi India, no.... unfortunately not. I think I would first try the crash mode reset (without the wheel in) and possibly disconnect the battery for ~30 seconds. Now... if you're near Bleiswijk you're welcome to come and try it out with mine, but as far as I know this isn't possible.

@@BetterShifting Ik heb het trucje van de 5s junctionbox indrukken al geprobeerd, zonder succes. Ik ga morgen de batterij 30s disconnecten, als dat niet lukt kom ik graag langs! Ik woon zelf in Delft, dus met de racefiets ben ik zo bij je ;)

@@indiavandoornen4222 Succes! Ik hoor 't vanzelf wel ;-)

@@BetterShifting helaas, het heeft geen succes gehad. Wat ik trouwens eerder aangaf, dat hij tegen de L screw aanloopt, is niet waar. Iets anders houdt hem tegen. Je kan dus alleen omlaag schakelen, en als je dat doet hoor je een tikkend geluid van de servo, waarna hij het na een paar sec opgeeft. Ik kom dus graag langs! Hoe kunnen we het gesprek voort zetten, buiten RUclips?

@@indiavandoornen4222 Stuur me even een mailtje (terry@bettershifting) en dan stuur ik m'n nummer wel even :).

If you can, do it wired.. but that isn't always possible. The main thing with the wireless update is:. You is not have to change the passkey. If you do, close the app using the disconnect button. Then go to the phone's bluetooth device list and forget or delete the ewwu111. Then try again :)

(you can update everything over usb using a Windows laptop, except for the initial wireless module update)

If you disconnect, close your laptop and things have gone pear-shaped, reconnect and disconnect! 😅😀. I don't really do video, but sometimes I upload things to embed them on pages or help people with specific issues :)

Hah, definitely! I'll probably redo the video sometime, without the time lapse. It's hard to see while trying to get it on at the same time though. What helped a lot was to move the bit that sticks onto the battery down a bit AND I made sure the gap between the beginning and end of the adhesive bit was where the top cap screw goes.

Thanks. I have a half hour struggle with getting the top cap on, 🤔 finally realising the rubber o-ring had fell off the battery 🔋 and was sitting at the bottom of the external mount so that every time I pushed the battery down it was still 1mm too tall for the cap to fit flush 🙄

@@floatingvoter8618 doh! Good to hear it's fixed now though!

@@floatingvoter8618 also, thanks for your comments :)

This took me awhile to figure out. My battery didn't have the notch top line up the foam and I may have put it on wrong. The line on the battery is where there will be a gap in the foam which is the channel where the wire going to the front goes. Line the top of the foam at the same level of a little bit below the plastic top on that end of the battery. AND, there is a notch on the inside of the holder that fits into the round/O ring end of the batter. Without going into that notch, you will never get the back cap on

I asked Shimano about this and they said something along the lines of "we tried it and 'bricked' an entire bike - we couldn't restore that with the SM-BCR2 so we don't recommend relying on solely that". But.. I tried REALLY hard just a few minutes ago and unplugged my SM-BCR2 at 15%, 30%, 50% and 70% and just cannot get it to break. Still.. if you don't have an SM-PCE1 / SM-PCE02 (I know Shane does), don't try this at home :-) ;-)

ruclips.net/video/jID7ztlsfkk/видео.html ;-)

Hah, thanks. I think it was meant to accompany a page on BetterShifting.com, but point taken.

Also, feel free to ask me anything.. email is terry @the site domain.com :)

Yes! Why do you ask? :)

hah, yeah it is great. Not mine though (Paul Teeter's) :)

Hi David, I think you mean SM-BCR2 cable (and not SM-BMR2?). The 'master unit' it is referring to is (usually) the battery or battery mount, in case you're using the external battery. You should be able to restore the firmware on the battery/battery mount using the SM-PCE1, yeah. Keep in mind that it'll probably say "unit not recognized" or similar the first try, just like it did in this video. Eventually it should work though :). Send me an email @ terry@di2center.com if you cannot get it to work using the PCE1 (or comment here, that's fine too)

BetterShifting _com Terry Thank you so much for your quick reply. I have the di2 Dura Ace (but 6-7 years) and also I have inside the frame a Dfly connected to it (but also 6-7 years old). I think it is external batt (but I’m not sure) but yes the same cable I use for the E Tube I am using for charging the battery (that means it is external batt?). It is indeed the SM-BCR2 cable. So I have ordered now cause of the issue an usb SM-PCE1 cable. I believe on the other side of the USB the connection will get into the batt charger unit (and not directly to the A junction box, am I right?) Do I try to do first an error check and go from there or what? Thanks again really helpful. David

@@SpicyAngler yep! The pce1/ PCE02 plug directly into the component you're trying to fix. I'll type a better reply tomorrow, is 23:20 here now :}